Cracking zones can be predicted by knowing the nature of the glacier and the surface on which it is located. Fault zones usually form in places where ice flow changes direction - on bends, troughs and bends... Ice and cracks are often covered with a layer of snow. There is a danger of falling into a crack. They move along closed glaciers in bundles, with careful belaying, constantly probing the path in front of them.
The first bunch when scouting the route should consist of three people. The fall of one into the crack should not lead to the pulling of the other two into it. The rope must be fully extended (do not leave rings, do not allow rope slack). The movement of participants within a ligament and between ligaments is a trace in a trace.
When a group moves from ice to rocks you can face coastal crack (welt), which runs along the body of the glacier and is formed due to the temperature difference - the stones heat up more than ice, and the latter melts near the rocks. Such cracks (Fig. 1) are relatively shallow. To pass them, you can almost always find an area where they are covered with fragments of rocks or ice.
When the steepness of the glacier bed changes, transverse cracks appear in its body.
With a significant increase in the steepness of the bend, due to the fragility of the upper layers and the higher (compared to the lower layers) speed of their movement, there is a significant cracking of the glacier surface, a fall of the separated ice masses. Such zones of intense ice destruction are called icefalls.
Where the glacier, following the shape of the valley, makes turns, in its body are formed radial cracks fan-shaped and expanding to the outside of the bend. Here way groups must pass by the coast along the slope closest to the center of the turn.
When the glacier leaves the gorge to a wider part of the valley, longitudinal cracks... In the case of a closed glacier these are the most dangerous cracks... Here, all tourists of the same bundle can, without suspecting the danger, walk along the crack in the immediate vicinity of it, and a fall into the crack of one of the tourists will inevitably cause a breakdown for the rest. In such cases, it is advisable to move either along the convex forms of the glacier or serpentine with a thread angle of 45 degrees with respect to the longitudinal axis of the glacier.
When moving along the convex relief forms of the glacier, tourists may encounter mesh (intersecting) cracks arising when ice crawls onto the protruding part of solid rock at the bottom of the valley. As a result, the ice swells up, forming longitudinal and transverse cracks, intersecting with each other (Fig. 2). It is better to avoid these cracks. If, when bypassing such a zone, there is a danger of meeting the longitudinal cracks existing in it, then it is best to bypass the latter along the lower boundary of the convex shape. Here tourists can only wait for transverse cracks.
The formation of snow eaves is possible at the edges of cracks.... Therefore, if it is necessary to move near large open cracks, it is necessary to first inspect (with careful insurance) the nature of the crack and cornice.
In the upper reaches of the glaciers, parallel to the slopes of the circus, arcuate submontane cracks (bergschrund), having a great width and depth in their central part (Fig. 3). Closer to the base of the arch, in the lower part of it, the crack width decreases, coming to naught. If the bergschrund is a series of arches, then most often their bases are not connected, but are located one above the other, forming possible passages. In summer, you can look for a passage through the bergschrund in the concave part of the slope, which is an avalanche trough in spring. Descending avalanches form solid bridges here. Of course, this path should be chosen only when avalanches have already descended (in no case after a snowfall). The approach to the snow bridge should be made from the safe zone one at a time, with an observer posted. Those who have passed the dangerous area immediately leave the danger zone. To overcome such bridges and the entire danger zone should be in the morning hours with careful insurance.
Before the crack transition over the snow bridge you must first carefully examine it. If a group moves across the bridge, tourists cross it on their bellies, with insurance, but without backpacks. In doing so, they should try to distribute body weight as much as possible over a large surface. Even over not entirely reliable bridges, the whole group can be transported in this way. Backpacks are dragged separately.
Cracks in closed glaciers- serious danger. Falling in them in the absence of reliable and correct belay usually leads to injury. If the fallen person did not get injured, but does not have the ability to move (a spell, unreliability of the support on which the fallen person managed to linger, etc.), the lack of rope or the inability of other participants in the trip to organize the tourist's rise from the crack in a timely manner, leads to his rapid freezing.
What do we know about glacial cracks? Just what glacial(ice)crack- This is a break in the glacier, formed as a result of its movement. Cracks most often have vertical walls. The depth and length of the cracks depends on the physical parameters of the glacier itself. There are cracks up to 70 m deep and tens of meters long. Cracks are: closed and open type... Open cracks are clearly visible on the surface of the glacier and therefore pose less danger to movement on the glacier. Theory is good, but without a visual image, a theory remains just a text.
Depending on the season, weather, and other factors, cracks in the glacier can be blocked by snow. In this case, the cracks are not visible and when moving along the glacier there is a danger of falling into the crack along with the snow bridge covering the crack. To ensure safety when moving on a glacier, especially a closed one, it is necessary to move in bundles.
There is a special type of cracks - bergschrund typical for kars (a circus, or a natural bowl-shaped depression in the pre-summit part of the slopes) feeding valley glaciers from the firn basin. Bergschrund is a large crack that occurs when the glacier leaves the firn basin.
Details about the types of glacial cracks and their structure can be found in the article.
Now let's move on to directly viewing illustrative examples of cracks of various types and sizes:
Glacial crack on a "dirty" glacier
Dangerous ice cracks on the "closed" glacier
Rankloft is a crack, a gully between a glacier and rocks. Usually, rancluft is formed at the lateral boundaries of the glacier-rocks contact. Reaches from 1m wide and up to 8 meters deep
We have already discussed how great it is to read the description (the publication on route classifications) before setting off on the route. But this, it turns out, is not enough.
These mischievous climbers in their descriptions use such words that you can't figure it out without a dictionary and a bottle of beer ... Well, they joked and they will. But seriously, I recommend everyone who is interested in mountains to familiarize themselves with these definitions. Perhaps you can learn something interesting for yourself.
Vertex- the highest point of a mountain or massif. Usually the goal of an ascent is to reach the summit (and descend from it). They have different names depending on their shape:
Peak- pointed top;
Three peaks of the Mongolian People's Republic (Mongolian People's Republic), 3870 m
Dome- top with round shapes;
Elbrus (5642 m) - summit-"dome"
Table mountain- a top with a horizontal or slightly inclined upper part.
Tirke (1283 m) - mountain table
Route- the way to the top and descent. I want to note that descent in this matter is no less important component.
Tour- an artificial pile of stones for marking the route (can be folded at the top, pass, fork, indicate the place of descent, etc.)
Tour on the pass of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions. Very long awaited (pass height 3693m)
In the descriptions, control tours are often indicated, in which, too (as well as at the top), you need to change the note. This additionally confirms the passage of the declared route.
Bivouac- Overnight stay on the route or during the conquest of the summit. On obviously long routes, descriptions may indicate convenient bivouac spots.
Ridge- a part of the mountain range connecting several peaks.
Pass- the lowest point in the ridge.
Elbrus region. Jailik peak (4533 m) shines proudly in the sun
Backstage- a depression in the rock (inner corner), which arose under the influence of flowing and falling water. They can be up to several tens of meters wide and, depending on the season, can be filled with snow, firn and ice. The bottom, usually cut by a gutter, is the most dangerous place in the couloir.
Open book- an acute internal angle that allows lifting with feet and hands on rock surfaces.
Trough- a shallow wide inner corner (the concept of "inner corner" can be found in a geometry textbook, presumably for the sixth grade).
Valley- a wide depression between two ridges. Typically very inhabited area.
Baksan valley
Gorge- a deep, narrow valley with steep, often rocky slopes.
Gorge- a particularly narrow part of the gorge with almost steep slopes.
Hollow- a depression steeply descending in one direction between two lateral ridges (ribs).
Descent along the gorge
Crest- a face formed by two adjacent slopes, reaching the top.
The path along the ridge to the top of Dzhantugan (3991 m)
Snow cornice- snow drift hanging under the influence of winds over one of the slopes of the ridge. It requires a very careful attitude towards itself - the structure is fragile, if possible, you should bypass it along the opposite slope, below the level of the ridge.
Hitsan- a rocky island, separated from the ridge as a result of erosion.
Adyr-Su gorge. View of the Mestia hut
Nunatak- a rocky peak completely surrounded by ice, a mountain ridge or hill protruding above the surface of an ice sheet or mountain glacier.
Saddle(in everyday life "saddle") - a depression between two peaks, from which hollows descend in directions transverse to the ridge in both directions.
View from Babugan Yayla
Slope- the surface of the mountain between adjacent ridges (as an option - the lateral surface of the ridge). By the nature of the soil or cover, the slopes are grassy, stony (talus), rocky, ice and snow.
Debris("Looseness") - a pile of stones or fragments of rocks lying on the surface of the slope. Depending on the size of the stones, talus can be large and small.
Training sessions on a grassy slope
Descent from the glacier along the "loose"
Wall- a slope or part of a slope with a steepness of more than 60 °.
It is worth noting that ascents “on the wall” are usually categorized higher than on the ridge - this can help in finding descriptions of the desired level of difficulty for a particular peak.
Overhang- a section of a wall with a negative slope
Cornice- overhang at an angle of 90 ° to the slope.
Ceiling- extensive horizontal overhang of rock.
When serious "overhangs", "cornices" or "ceilings" appear in the description, it will not be superfluous to have ladders and hooks with a hammer (AID category may not be listed) - if you are not completely sure that you will free climb.
North-eastern Mongolia near
Terrace- a horizontal section of the slope forming a long step.
In everyday life, small "terraces" are often called " shelves". Usually it is convenient to equip them with belay stations.
Plate- a smooth and flat rock section with a steepness of up to 60 °.
Buttress- an outer corner adjacent to a wall or slope.
Edge- buttress adjacent to the ridge.
Gendarme- elevation on the ridge. Studying the description, it is worth paying attention to which side this or that "gendarme" is bypassed.
Famous gendarme "Devil's finger" on Mount Sokol in Crimea
Crack- a gap in the rock, which is so wide that fingers of a hand can be placed in it or a hook can be hammered.
Cleft- the gap in the rock is so wide that an arm or a leg can fit in it.
Cleft on the rocks of Dovbush
Fireplace- a vertical gap in the rock, so large that a person can fit in it.
The technique of overcoming "fireplaces" differs from the usual climbing on a stand or natural relief (there are no hooks and you need to go into the space), so it should be practiced separately.
An oversized cleft is too narrow to fit in with the body and too wide to wedge an arm or foot. Usually difficult to climb.
Chimney- a rock formation resembling a pipe. On the Forossko-Mellskaya wall in Crimea there is a route of the same name 2B class. on the "Tower" array. The chimney section does not present any particular technical difficulty, but it leaves an unforgettable impression.
"Chimney" on the route of the same name
Lamb foreheads- rocky outcrops on a talus or snow-ice slope. They represent a convex section of rock, smoothed by streams of water, stones or a glacier.
They usually try to get around these outcrops - smooth stones do not encourage free climbing. Especially in mountain boots.
Typical Caucasian landscape
Glacier- ice masses sliding in the form of icy rivers from firn fields down into the valleys.
Kashkatash glacier in the Adyl-Su gorge
Glacier tongue- its lower end part.
Moraine- the accumulation of rock debris (at the bottom, along the edges, in the middle or at the end of the glacier), formed as a result of the destruction of neighboring slopes or its bed by the glacier. Accordingly, lateral, median and terminal moraines are distinguished.
View from the parking lot "Green Hotel"
Icefall(not to be confused with an ice collapse) - a disorderly pile-up of ice blocks, as well as a system of cracks and faults in places where the glacier bed folds.
Serac- separately protruding ice block of the icefall; poses a potential hazard as it can break off.
Icefall in the upper part of the Kashkatash glacier
Rankloft- a foothill crack, formed at the place where the glacier adjoins the rocky slope (the reason is the thawing of ice from the rocks heated by the sun).
Bergschrund- a transverse crack in the tongue of the glacier, formed due to the movement of the ice mass down the slope.
The bunch overcomes the bergschrund
The main difference between these two words of German origin is that rancluft denotes a crack between ice and rocks, and bergschrund (in everyday life - “ berg") - in the glacier itself. In addition, there may be a bunch of other cracks on the glacier, which are not specifically named.
Of course, the list is far from complete, the descriptions can be expanded and deepened. Therefore, I recommend going to the mountains for details - everything is much more interesting there!
When compiling the dictionary, personal mountain experience was used, notes by Alexander Guzhviy, the dictionary of Garth Hatting ("Mountaineering. Climbing technique." - Moscow, 2006) and the vastness of the Internet (special thanks to the tourist club "ZEST" for a good selection). Photos: Olga and Denis Volokhovsky, Vitaly Nesterchuk, Irina Churachenko, Yaroslav Ivanov and others.
To be continued…
Bypassing the cracks of the Sagran glacier. I. Daibog is the first.
In the background is the northern peak of Lipsky Peak
Photo by A. Sidorenko
Altitude 4000 m, the minimum thermometer showed at night - 4 °. The glacial streams were covered with ice, but already with the first rays of the sun the glacier came to life again. Timashev and Letavet noticed, on the shaded side of small ice cones, horizontal plates of ice arranged in shelves, on average, at a distance of about four centimeters one above the other. Each such shelf, as observations showed, was a few days ago an ice surface that covered a small glacial lake during the night, and the distance between the shelves showed the depth of melting of the glacier surface in a day.
A narrow trench filled with gray moraine was left behind; now before us stretched the vast expanses of glacial fields covered with sparkling bristles of ice needles. Above, behind them rose the walls of high ridges and peaks, shining with unsullied whiteness of slopes or distinguished by dark spots of rocky cliffs.
If in the middle reaches the Sagran glacier receives its main tributaries on the left, then in the upper part two of the most significant tributaries flowed in from the right side. The glacier itself deviates here in a sloping arc to the northeast, and then almost exactly to the north. The surface of the glacier also changes; its smooth, sloping course has acquired a stepped character here. Sloping and calm areas alternate with steeper falls of the glacier, so torn apart by numerous cracks that trying to climb these icefalls would not only take a long time, but would also be risky.
The quietest movement was possible only in the middle of the glacier, up to the confluence of the right large tributary. Above his possession, they had to walk, nestling close to the right bank, moving along the broken edge of the glacier, through cracks, in many places filled with water. The steep southern slope was covered with talus and rocks. This part of the glacier has not yet been stepped by a human foot, and we did not even have an approximate description of it.
While most of the group was returning to the lower part of the glacier for the cargo left there, a small reconnaissance group continued to find a way in the upper reaches of the Sagran. Only in the evening, tired after the hard climbing and heavy load, we reached a relatively flat area on the coastal moraine. Altitude 4500 m.
Here, on the moraine, at the turn of the Sargan glacier to the north-east, it was decided to organize the "Main camp".
During these two days, while our comrades with porters were pulling up the cargo, the reconnaissance group climbed even higher along the glacier. It was found that further, the right bank of the glacier to rise to its upper reaches is impossible, huge cracks and piles of ice blocks block the path. Climbing the crest of the ridge separating the Rodionov glacier and the upper reaches of the Sagran, from a height of 5000 m we perfectly saw part of the upper reaches and the huge peaks that close the glacier. From here, it was already possible to outline the paths for the ascent to the highest, armchair-shaped peak of the region with two powerful shoulders, characteristic sharply dissected ridges and steep slopes, turning into huge rocky kilometer-long cliffs. To the left of this main peak was another one, which seemed to be only slightly inferior to it, but undoubtedly exceeding in height all the other, also first-class peaks of this group.
By the evening of August 18, when all the participants of the expedition pulled up, a whole tent city appeared on the site. During the day it was so warm that many climbers walked in shorts, while at night the temperature dropped to -4.5-5 °. From the "Main Camp" we made a number of routes to study the orography of the glacier, its tributaries and the surrounding ridges. This provided us with the necessary acclimatization.
With the enthusiasm of the pioneers, opening new pages of the book of nature, climbers, overcoming cracks, icefalls and heights, penetrated to the sources of the Sagran glacier. The Observations glacier, a large right-hand tributary of the Rodionov glacier, was crossed up to the saddle leading to the Shini-Bini glacier. We partially visited the left tributaries of the Sagran, which we called the Vilka and Perevalny glaciers. We also climbed to the saddle of the main watershed of the Peter the Great ridge, on the other side of which lies the Gando glacier. We named this saddle after the most prominent figure in Soviet mountaineering, Avgust Andreevich Letavet. The nearest summit, to which we climbed from the Leta-veta pass, was named by us Kinochronicle peak, in honor of the cameramen of our expeditions who made the first filming of the region from it.
As a result of all observations on the routes we passed, it was possible to draw up a complete diagram of the entire Sagran glacier and its tributaries. The main channel of the glacier goes with sharp bends to the south, then to the west, and finally to the north. The Sagran glacier has six tributaries, not counting the Shini-bini glacier, which no longer reaches Sagran; four of them flow in on the left, two on the right.
The continuous moraine cover ends at an altitude of 3500-3600 m. The middle moraines disappear almost completely at an altitude of 4400-4600 m, from where a firn cover begins on the glacier. Almost all tributaries of the Sagran have bed folds that form more or less significant icefalls. A completely inaccessible icefall, turning into a huge fault, has a glacier on the western slope of the Lyoskiy peak; we also saw a large ice-fall on the Vilka glacier.
The main, watershed ridge of the Peter the Great ridge is bounded by the glacier from the south and east. The average height of the ridge is not high, slightly over 5000 m. Four significant peaks rise above the ridge from west to east: Lipsky peak, Bezymyannaya peak, Edelstein peak 1, which is close in height to Lipsky peak, and, finally, the main peak crowning the area, which we named, in honor of the 800th anniversary of the capital of our Motherland, celebrated in 1947 - the peak Moscow, and the glacier at the foot of its southern wall - Moskvich.
From peak Moscow, the main watershed of the Peter the Great ridge goes to the east, and a powerful spur answers to the north-west. It begins with the second highest peak of the Sagran glacier basin, which we named the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state in connection with the 30th anniversary of the October Revolution. Between it and Peak Moskva lies the main source of the Sagran Glacier, which we discovered for the first time, which increased the previously known length of Sagran to 29 km. Further west is a series of gradually declining peaks. Oshanin Peak, named after the Russian explorer who discovered the Peter the Great Ridge and the Fedchenko Glacier. This peak is located in the upper reaches of the Rodionov Glacier, which we named after the topographer, expedition participant V.F. Oshanina. Next comes Fersman Peak, located between the Rodionov Glacier and its right tributary, which we designated as the Observations glacier.
After the first acquaintance with the area, acclimatization, training and filming of the middle zone of the glacier, we began to explore the approaches to the western ridge of peak Moscow.
During the day we managed, adhering to the left, quieter coast of the Sagran glacier, to climb to the ice-fall. The huge southwestern wall of Moscow Peak was above us. Even earlier, as a result of observations, two possible variants of ascent to the western ridge arose, the lower, steep ledge of which is crowned with an extensive snow cushion. The first route is along its southeastern ice slope, which forms the starboard side of the Moskvich glacier. The second route is along its north-western, also ice slope. A closer study showed that the first option would be much more difficult, the path was blocked by a difficult icefall and a high steep ice slope. But the second option did not seem easy either. The icefall separating the upper circus of the Sagran Glacier was so high and broken that it was doubtful whether it was possible to overcome it. Still, the ice slope leading to the lower cushion was more gentle and shorter.
We decided to try to bypass the icefall with the left bank of the glacier along the steep snow and ice walls, which do not fall down with their faults from the first pillow to the glacier's surface. After a long felling of steps in the ice cliffs, moving with constant belay on ice hooks, by noon we overcame all the difficulties and reached the upper step of the glacier. A careful examination of the northwestern slope confirmed the possibility of ascent. Having finished filming, we decided on the way back to try to go down the icefall. Studying it from above made it possible to outline a difficult, but possible path. Master of Sports A. Bagrov, moving first, perfectly understood the chaos of heaps of ice seracs and huge failures. Two hours later, we went down to the foot of the icefall.
Nevertheless, it was decided to look for other routes along the glacier, which could reduce the ascent. Moving straight to the camp, the group found itself in the area of hidden cracks. Our bunch calmly followed in the footsteps of the first, when I suddenly fell through. Having broken through the snow cover, I fell into a deep crack. The rope stopped the fall, and, having flown 6-8 m, I hung between two sheer ice walls that went into a dark ominous gap. The chest harness strongly squeezed the chest, breathing was already interrupted when the loop from the cord 1 captured with it saved the situation. After securing it to the main rope, I stood with my foot in the loop. It immediately became easy to breathe. My comrades threw me the end of the rope with another loop. Having put it on the other leg, I, like on a ladder, began to climb quickly, being pulled from above by my comrades. We did not dare to take any more risks, and again switched to the path we had traveled, albeit a long one, but safer.
On August 23, eleven climbers went up the glacier to test the possibility of climbing the western ridge to the top of the Moskva peak and to study the entire region of the sources of the Sagran glacier. The route was calculated for 8-10 days. Remained in the "Main camp": the head of the expedition A.A. Letavet, A. Popogrebsky and A. Zenyakin, who were supposed to watch our movement to the top. It was decided to keep in touch every evening with a light signaling at the appointed hour.
The peaks were already sparkling in the morning sun, but deep shadows still lay on the glaciers. The night frost, which fettered the glacial streams at night, has not yet given way to the heat of the sun. Slowly moving up the glacier four bands of climbers, burdened with heavy rucksacks.
The icy cliffs of the icefall, which seemed not so difficult when we passed them yesterday lightly, this time took a lot of time and a lot of effort. In addition, in a short time - 20-30 minutes - despite the altitude of 5000 m, the night frost was replaced by a debilitating heat. The snowy slopes and the firn surface of the glacier that surrounded us only intensified the heat, reflecting, like a reflector, the scorching rays of the sun. We were, as it were, in a huge concave mirror. On vacation, the comrades, exhausted by the heat, forgot themselves in a heavy slumber. Thirst tormented, but there was no more water. The firn reigned.
Honored Master of Sports E. Abalakov on the rise along the southeastern ridge of the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state.
In the background is the northern face of Moscow Peak.
Photo by A. Sidorenko
We have embarked on a new path that has not yet been traversed. Very slowly, the ligaments were pulled up to a wide foothill crack, tearing the slope, behind which the icy surface glistening in the sun steeply went up. The ice rang under the blows of the ice axes. Slowly moving over the steep, alternately securing each other on metal hooks hammered into the ice, we persistently climbed meter by meter. By evening, all the bundles climbed the vast plateau of the first snow cushion.
The altitude is 5250 m. Having leveled the grounds in the snow, stretched out the tents, we began to prepare food. The water obtained from the snow made a noise in the alcohol kitchens, and it became more comfortable in the tents. The last rays of the sun were extinguished on the cliffs of Moscow Peak, scarlet under the sunset, and the mountains plunged into bluish darkness. The weary alpinists fell fast asleep in their warm sleeping bags.
24 August. Cold. We got out of the tents quite late and began to quickly pack our backpacks. Before us is a huge, steep snow slope, shining with icy areas and cliffs of firn faults. Here every step demanded attention. We try to firmly drive the crampons' teeth into the firn, but the uncomfortable position of the feet, which are twisted when moving on such a steep slope, greatly fatigues the leg muscles. As we climb, the slope gradually grows under us as a huge ice mountain. It is possible to "slide down" along it, probably, only once in a lifetime. Rare sloping platforms above the steep faults serve as places of the desired respite. Only on them you can throw off heavy backpacks at least for a short time.
After five hours of difficult ascent, we finally reached the sloping snowy slope of the upper cushion and went to the beginning of the rocks of the western ridge. Deep below there was the Sagran glacier with fan-shaped stripes of cracks. The air is so transparent that the wall of the summit of the Moskva peak seems quite close. As above the crater of a volcano, a white cloud swirls above it and disappears behind the crest. Near the beginning of the rocks on the north side, we found a completely horizontal small area covered with smooth ice. Despite the height of 5700 m, water accumulates in the cut holes, and we greedily quench our thirst. After resting, we find out that we are on a wide balcony, a giant snowy cornice, which, bending around the north-western ridge, connects with the previously unknown main source of the Sagran glacier.
Towards the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state. In the background on the right is Lipsky Peak, so named by Soviet climbers in honor of the Russian geographer who first saw this peak (1899). The triangles indicate the places of the bivouacs:
1. Above the second pillow, on the balcony (5700 m), 2. On the western edge of the Moskva peak (5800 m).
At the source of the Sagran glacier E. Abalakov (right) and E. Ivanov.
Photo by E. Timashev
Almost a kilometer below us falls a completely sheer wall. Above us, the rocks of the western edge of the Moscow peak go up into steep ledges. Opposite us rises a rock mass of the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state.
Along the steep rocks, trying not to drop stones so as not to injure the comrades walking below, we climbed 100 m under the sheer wall of the steepest rise of the western ridge. The weather was deteriorating. A strong wind swooped down. Clouds covered the mountains. The assault on complex rocks had to be postponed in order to urgently begin the construction of sites for a bivouac among the rocks at an altitude of 5800 m. Throughout the night, hurricane gusts of wind pressed the tents, cracked the banners. Snow dust from frost fell asleep on sleeping bags, splashed over the faces of climbers huddled in their sleeping bags.
25-th of August. The morning did not bring relief. Poor visibility. Not even the nearest rocks are visible. A frosty blizzard circled behind the walls of the tents, not allowing them to get out. From the intense fatigue of the previous day, the influence of altitude began to affect. My head ached, my throat was dry, I felt weak. Dry alcohol "Hexa" got wet, and with great difficulty it was possible to light a match, blown out by gusts of wind, and to make the alcohol ignite. But instead of a life-giving hot flame, the damp "Hexa" filled the tent with such fumes that we felt as if imprisoned in a gas chamber. It was impossible to open the tent, the snow whirlwinds would instantly have brought everything inside with snow. I had to endure, getting headlong into sleeping bags, and even when, thanks to the heroic efforts of A. Sidorenko, the delicious breakfast was ready, we were left lying almost indifferent.
But we did not lose hope for a speedy improvement in the weather. Indeed, for the dry climate of the Pamirs, stable, clear weather is usual, and one had to assume that the storm that caught us is a transient phenomenon. However, day and night passed, August 26 came, and the storm continued to rage. A dull rumble, arising somewhere below, nara-became, and another hurricane gust of wind crashed into the tents, shaking them, trying to tear them off the rocky ridge. Geographer Timashev reported from a nearby tent: temperature - 13 °. Our "microclimate" was more favorable, as the tent was protected from the wind by the rocks. However, the altitude and cold affected apathy, in unexpected outbursts of irritability. The hope for a speedy change in the weather was gradually dying away, since the altimeters showed an increase in absolute height - 50 m, reflecting the drop in pressure. The smallest thermometer noted a temperature of 23 ° during this day. This is the phenomenon of a three-day fierce storm that held us at an altitude of 5800 m, A.A. Letavet later aptly described it as "Tien Shan in the Pamirs".
Only on August 28 - on the fourth day - the storm subsided, and it was possible to get out of the tents. It was necessary to decide what to do. The date of our return was drawing near. Food and fuel have decreased. Working capacity from forced passive lying decreased. The "Main Camp" was probably already worried about our fate, although at the appointed time we neatly gave light signals, lighting scraps of film. I considered it premature to go down with the whole group: after all, it would hardly be possible to organize a repeated attempt to ascend. We were clearly entering the "time trouble".
It was decided that weaker comrades would go down, accompanied by several strong climbers.
On August 28 at 11 o'clock, Kelzon, Staritsky, Khodakevich, Daibog and Bagrov, leaving us most of their food and fuel, went downstairs. By seven o'clock in the evening of the same day, they reached the "Main camp" (4500 m), where prof. A.A. Letavet. Our good condition and the food and fuel left by our comrades allowed the six of us to continue our ascent.
On August 29, the wind died down, but the clouds were still holding. With difficulty we cleared and folded the icy tents, packed our backpacks and, once again tied ropes in triplets, we began to climb the steep cliffs over a kilometer-long cliff. The first in the bundle hammers a steel hook into the crack of the rock, engages on the carabiner and only then gives a signal to the next in the bundle
give out the rope connecting them. We pull ourselves up slowly one by one, checking each of our movements. The cliffs are so steep that it is often impossible to climb them with heavy backpacks. You have to take off the load and pull it on the rope. We crossed this two-hundred-meter-high wall for almost half a day. To save money, the latter had to knock out the hooks back. Several hooks in the most dangerous places were left in the rocks for the return.
At the end of the day, when we reached an altitude of 6000 m, M. Anufrikov unexpectedly fell into a snowy area. Freeing the stuck leg, he dug a hole and discovered a narrow deep crack in the rocks under the snow. This peculiar cave turned out to be a valuable find for an overnight stay. After two hours of welfare work, for the first time during the assault, we could all sleep together, reliably protected from the wind. In the evening, candles were burning in the cave, tea was boiling, jokes and songs were heard. Probably for the first time at the six thousandth height, opera arias and duets sounded.
Already late in the evening, having jammed with a triple shaft, very pleased with our bivouac, we calmly fell asleep, squeezed by the rocky walls of a stone bag.
The morning of August 30 came. Unusual silence. We climb out of the cave. Violent exclamations ... Sweeps again in the mountains. Misty shroud and whirlwinds of snow covered the ridges. But we decided to continue our ascent. Again I had to climb sharp brittle rocks or bogged down on my knees in loose snow, balancing under sharp gusts of icy wind. We slowly rise from the ledge to the ledge. Sidorenko and Ivanov have very cold feet. While the comrades are resting, Timashev and I are going higher to explore the path.
Bypassing the huge rocky towers, hiding under the rocks from the gusts of a blizzard, we came to a narrow icy ridge. At the end of it we drive a dark silhouette of a high sharp rock: this is probably the highest point of the ridge, the western shoulder of the Moscow peak. An irresistible desire to find out the possibility of further ascent along the western ridge to the top made us climb along the edge of a steep ridge, on which we had to balance over huge cliffs, covered at times by blankets of clouds. Suddenly the clouds parted, and before us loomed in the distance, rising after some lowering of the ridge, a spectacular giant rise of a sharp jagged ridge, ending in the dome of the summit.
Snow-covered sharp numerous "zhan-darms" of the western ridge, like the teeth of an upturned saw, blocked the further path. We watched with intense attention this remaining rise to the top. It was necessary to walk another one and a half kilometers in a straight line and gain at least 800 m vertically. It was clear that to accomplish this, in addition to skill, time, effort and good, stable weather were needed; now, continuing to climb in unstable weather, with our waning strength, with limited time, we would put ourselves at too great a risk. No matter how bitter it is, you need to retreat! Leaving the southern side of the ridge, we folded the tour, Timashev wrote a note, which we carefully hid in the middle of the stone pyramid. Depressed, we returned to the frozen, waiting for us A. Sidorenko, E. Ivanov, A. Gozhev and M. Anufrikov.
Peak Moscow (6,994 m - on the right) and the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state from the south. Below is the Sagran glacier:… .. the path of the climbers, camp on the second pillow. The flag on the crest of the Moskva peak marks the height of 6200 m, reached by the climbers.
Photo by E. Timashev
Until late in the evening, they went down the steep, snow-covered rocks, hammering and knocking hooks with numb hands, hanging on frozen ropes, barely distinguishing each other through the snowstorm. Having reached the place of our camp at an altitude of 5800 m, we unexpectedly discovered an annoying "robbery": dry jelly, pieces of smoked sausage, left by us, turned out to be racy-given and pecked by crows. Only at dusk did we go down to the familiar balcony at an altitude of 5700 m and set up our tents on the smooth ice surface. The passionate desire to draw water from the holes cut in the ice was no longer crowned with success. Sunset. There was only frosty ringing ice all around.
In the evening at the appointed hour, I gave the signal. The wind blew out matches for a long time, hands were freezing. But then the film flashed, and I raised the torch high. For a second, rocks and snow lit up brightly. But the film burned out, and the darkness became even thicker. I look down anxiously, and suddenly a point of light flashed deep below in a veil of fog. "Hooray! My signal has been received! " It became warmer and calmer in my soul from the consciousness that comrades led by A.A. were tirelessly watching us down there. Letavet. I am returning to the bivouac. Candles are burning in the tents. Tovar-rishis prepare hot food. The moon appeared. The night was frosty. Mercury again dropped to -20 °, but the tired people slept soundly.
August 31. Wonderful Pamir morning! Clear sky. Windless. From our balcony, the upper part of the main source of the Sagran glacier is perfectly visible. In the east, upstream, it ends with a saddle located about two kilometers from us against the background of a dark blue alpine sky. It lies between the peak Moscow and the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state. From the saddle, it was possible to solve two sports tasks: to establish the possibility of climbing the Moscow peak along the northern ridge and to try to ascend to the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state along its southeastern ridge. In addition, we could establish which glacier headwaters adjoins the source of the Sagran glacier. Timashev fervently urged Sidorenko to use this exceptional case, which first presented itself to a cameraman - to shoot from such a height the highest peak of the USSR, Stalin's Peak.
There was a heated discussion: to go down - to the "Main camp" or up - to the saddle? It was decided to reach the saddle and, if possible, complete both tasks.
Entering the saddle required a significant expenditure of energy. We had to walk along our cornice along the northern slope of the western edge of the Moskva peak and then descend to the Sagran glacier, to its main source. This was due to the loss of 150-200 m in height. Descent to the glacier turned out to be difficult due to treacherous cracks hidden under deep, free-flowing snow. I had to slide down on their bellies in order to distribute the weight of the whole body over the largest possible area, keeping each other on the ropes. The backpacks were lowered separately. Such "swimming" on the snowy slope, over the hollows of the cracks took a lot of time.
Movement technique in the mountains, on certain sections of the path depends on the nature and characteristics of the mountainous relief.
Wooded and herbaceous slopes are crossed by shepherd and animal paths usually going along warm southern and western slopes, places with sparse vegetation and a thick layer of soil. They move along paths or flat surfaces at an even pace, slowed down at the beginning and end of each transition. The soles of the feet are almost parallel, the foot is placed on the heel with "rolling" to the toe at the beginning of the next step. The center of gravity of the body with a backpack should shift vertically as little as possible - small hills and holes should be bypassed, stones and tree trunks should be stepped over. Alpenstock or ice ax is carried in hand in the stowed position; in areas where a loss of balance is possible - in two hands in the lanyard position or as additional support.
When driving on grassy slopes, you should use protruding, firmly lying stones, bumps and other uneven terrain for support, on steep slopes avoid areas of dense grass and small bushes, beware of rock falls over located rocky areas. For steep slopes, shoes with corrugated soles "vibram" are required, in the case of slippery, for example, wet or heavily snow-covered surfaces, as a rule, "crampons" and rope belay are used. To climb, tourists either move in steep short zigzags, or make long, gentle traverses bypassing rocky sections. When lifting "in the forehead", the legs are placed with the entire sole, the feet (depending on the steepness) - parallel, with a half-tree or a herringbone; when lifting obliquely or in a serpentine - on the entire foot with a half-tree (the upper leg - horizontally, loading more the outer welt of the shoe, the lower one - slightly turning the toe down the slope, with a greater load on the inner welt). When descending straight down a not very steep slope, the feet are placed parallel to the entire sole or with the predominant load on the heel, move with their backs to the slope with quick, short springy steps, slightly bending the knees (but not running). Down a steep slope they go down sideways, obliquely or in a serpentine, their legs are placed with a half-tree, as in the ascent. An ice ax or alpenstock on steep slopes is held with both hands in the position of readiness for self-retention during the ascent and descent; in case of a breakdown, if necessary, it is used as a second fulcrum. In dangerous places, rope belay is organized through tree trunks, rock ledges, as well as over the shoulder or lower back.
The talus slopes are passed in a group with minimum intervals between the participants. When driving along them, one must remember that steep talus areas are especially dangerous due to rockfalls. Along small talus, they rise "head-on" or serpentine, the feet are placed parallel, compacting the step by gradual pressing until the talus stops sliding. You should lean on the entire foot, keep the body upright (as far as the backpack allows). An ice ax (alpenstock) is used if necessary, leaning on it from the front to the side. They descend in small steps, placing their feet in parallel with the emphasis on the heel, if possible, sliding down with a mass of small stones and not letting their feet bind deeper than the top of the boot; the ice ax is ready for self-retention. They move along cemented or frozen talus in the same way as along grassy slopes.
It is recommended to move obliquely or on a steep serpentine along the middle scree, and at the turning points the guide should gather the whole group so that tourists, for safety reasons, are not above each other. Unstable, steep, so-called live taluses are especially dangerous. Sharp movements should be avoided; legs should be placed on the entire foot carefully, gently, choosing parts of the stones facing the slope for support. The ice ax is held in hand, not leaning against the slope.
On coarse debris they can easily move in any direction. The movement is carried out, stepping from one stone to another, changing the pace in order to maximize the inertia of the body with a backpack and avoiding large jumps. When descending and ascending, you must put your feet on the edges of the stones, closer to the slope. Stones and slabs with a significant slope should not be used.
Tourists pass rocky slopes, edges, couloirs and ridges with a preliminary assessment of the difficulty and safety of individual sections. The main indicators of the difficult passability of the rocky relief are its average steepness and its constancy throughout the entire length of the site. When assessing the steepness, it is taken into account that from below from under the slope it seems shorter and flatter, especially its upper part. The view from above and "in the forehead" seems to increase the steepness, and the presence of steep drops conceals the distance (the height and steepness of the slope helps to determine the dropping of small stones). The correct idea of the steepness of a slope or edge is given by observing it from the side (in profile) or directly accessing it. The safest for movement are the ribs and buttresses; the most simple, but dangerous with possible rockfalls are couloirs. It is allowed to use the lower part of the wide couloirs to bypass the steepest lower part of the ribs and buttresses, the upper part of the couloirs when entering the ridge ridge in dry weather in the early morning hours. It is unacceptable to move along the sidelines during snowfall, rain or immediately after precipitation. Climbing the ridges is safe at any time of the day, except in cases of bad weather and strong winds. The "gendarmes" meeting on the ridges go around the slopes or climb over them.
The basis of climbing rocks is choosing the right route, using or creating supports and the correct position of the center of gravity in relation to the support. Distinguish between free climbing using natural points of support, ledges, cracks and the so-called artificial climbing, when the points of support are created using rock and bolt hooks, pins, ropes, loops, ladders. Free climbing can be external - along the wall and internal - in crevices and fireplaces. According to the difficulty of movement, rocks (rock routes) in tourism are divided into 3 groups:
- Lungs, overcome without the help of hands (hands occasionally lean with hands, maintaining balance).
- Medium, requiring a limited arsenal of climbing techniques and periodic belaying.
- Difficult ones, which may require any methods of free and artificial climbing, you need continuous belay of the walking and self-belay of the belayer.
Hands and feet can be used for gripping, resting, and stretching. When gripping hands, Ch. arr. to maintain balance by loading the supports from above, from the side and from below. The main weight is on the legs. For stops, uneven rocks are used that are located below shoulder level and are unsuitable for gripping. The force is directed mainly from top to bottom and is transmitted through the palm or part of it and the soles of the feet. Spacers are used where there are no protrusions for grips and stops on the rock surface, and the location of the rocks allows this technique to be used.
On rocky routes, the following basic rules are followed:
- before starting the movement, determine the route, resting places, insurance and difficult sections;
- the climb is performed, if possible, along the shortest direction - the vertical, choosing the simplest path.
Displacement to the side (transition from one vertical to another), if necessary, is performed on the most gentle and lightest part of the slope. Before loading a rock support, check its reliability (inspection, hand pressing, blow of a rock hammer), after which they tend to use it first as a grip or palm rest, and then as a leg support. For a stable body position, three points of support are maintained, either two legs and an arm, or two arms and a leg. The main load, as a rule, is carried by the legs, the arms maintain balance. In order to save forces, friction is used as much as possible (stops and spacing). They move along the rocks and load the supports smoothly. In areas where there are good supports for the hands and poor for the legs, the body is kept further from the rock, if there are good supports for the legs, closer to the rock. Before a difficult area, you should rest, determine the points of support and grips in advance and overcome it without delay so that your hands do not get tired. If it is impossible to continue moving, you need to go down to a convenient place and look for a new way to climb. Hands get tired less if the holds are not higher than the head; when pulling up, they help by extending the legs. For greater stability, the arms and legs are kept slightly apart, they try not to lean on their knees. The design of modern hiking shoes allows the use of the slightest unevenness of the relief to create support. To increase the adhesion of the boot to the rock, the pressure of the foot must be perpendicular to the support surface. For small ledge surfaces, the foot is placed on the inner welt of the boot or on the toe.
Climbing rocks requires utmost attention, caution, confidence. In case of a breakdown, you should keep your hands in front of you so as not to hit the rock and, if possible, catch on to it. Descent on simple rocks is performed with the face from the slope, leaning on the palms of the hands, bending the knees and body, but not sitting down. On rocks of medium difficulty, they descend sideways or face the slope, the arms maintain balance, the body is almost vertical. On difficult rocks in short sections, they descend facing the slope, but more often they use a rope descent: sports, by the Dyulfer method or with the help of braking devices. Before organizing the descent, make sure that the rope reaches the site, from where you can continue to move or organize the next stage of the descent. The main rope for the descent is fixed on the rock ledge directly or with the help of a rope loop, as well as on rocky hooks with a carabiner or a loop made of a rope. The strength of the protrusion is carefully checked, sharp edges that can damage the rope at kinks are blunt with a hammer. Old hooks and loops must be tested for strength, at the slightest doubt they are replaced with new ones. The cord loop should be double or triple. All members of the group, except for the last one, descend with the top belay with the second rope. The last participant descends on a double rope with a self-belay. Before the last participant descends from below, they check how the rope slides; when it gets jammed, its fastening is corrected. The second rope, also used for pulling, is passed through the last descending carabiner. The descent along the rope is carried out calmly, evenly, as if walking along the rocks, avoiding jerks. The body is held vertically, slightly turned sideways to the slope, legs slightly bent and placing them wide on the rock.
Snow and firn fields and slopes, as well as closed glaciers, overcome, if possible, during the cold time of the day. Special attention is paid to the possible avalanche hazard, taking into account the steepness of the slope, the time of the last snowfall, the orientation of the slope, the time and duration of its illumination by the sun, and the state of the snow. When moving on snow and firn, they follow the principle of maintaining "two points of support" (leg - leg, leg - ice ax or alpenstock). The main efforts are spent on trampling tracks and knocking out steps.
For safety reasons, tourists adhere to the following basic rules:
- on a soft snowy slope, the foot support is pressed gradually, using the property of snow to freeze when compressed, avoiding a strong kick in the snow;
- with a fragile crust, it is punched with a foot and the support under it is pressed;
- on a steep crust slope, the sole of the boot rests on the edge of the step punched in the crust, and the lower leg - on the crust;
- the body is held vertically, the steps (supports) are loaded smoothly at the same time with the entire sole;
- the leader's stride length corresponds to the stride length of the smallest member of the group;
- all members of the group follow the trail, without violating, and, if necessary, correcting the steps; with a strong crust and dense firn, the steps are stuffed with a boot welt, cut down with an ice pick, or use "crampons";
- in the event of a breakdown, warning the ligament partner by shouting "hold", the breaker must immediately start self-retention, and the belayer must stop sliding at the very initial stage.
On a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 35 °, they go straight up. With a sufficient depth of soft loose snow, the feet are placed parallel, tamping the snow with them until a snow cushion is formed. With a small layer of soft snow on a firn or ice base, with a light blow, the foot is immersed in the snow until it stops with the toe on the hard base. Then, without lifting the toe off the base, the step is pressed with vertical pressure. If the steps slide out under load, double pressing of steps is used: first, with a kick of the foot perpendicularly to the slope, the first portion of snow is pressed, forming the base for the future step, freezing to the underlying firn or ice, and then, using snow from the sides of the pit, a step is formed on the resulting base. On a very thin layer of soft snow, lying on ice and dense firn, you should use "crampons". With an increase in the steepness of the slope and the hardness of the snow, they move to a zigzag movement at an angle of 45 ° to the "water flow line", knocking out the steps with the welt of the boot with oblique sliding blows with the obligatory observance of the rule of "two points of support". On slopes with firn soggy to a considerable depth or covered with dry snow, as well as on slopes with a steepness of 45 ° or more, an ascent straight up in three steps is used. With a traverse in a three-beat way, they step over with an attached step. Fresh soft snow, softened by the sun, sticks in a lump on the soles of the boots. He must be immediately knocked down by hitting the welt with an ice ax almost at every step.
Deep frost and frosty sandy recrystallized snow sometimes formed under the infusion do not lend themselves to pressing. In the first case, only a layer of crust is used for lifting, in the second, they punch a trench to a solid base, organizing a belay at its bottom through an ice hook or ice ax and knocking out the steps.
On a snow slope of low and medium steepness, they descend with their backs to the slope, straight down or slightly obliquely. In loose and soggy snow, they walk almost without bending their knees at a narrow pace. On the descent on harder snow, the tracks are punctured by a blow of the heel (to maintain balance, you should lean on the bayonet of the ice ax). If the snow slope is avalanche-safe, then you can go down in a line - each participant makes his own tracks; otherwise, you need to follow the trail. On a crust, firn or icy snow slope of great steepness, they descend, as a rule, facing the slope for three steps, using and maintaining the steps laid by the leader, or along the railing fixed on ice axes, an avalanche shovel, an ice hook or a snow anchor. On non-steep snow slopes, viewed to the bottom, sliding descent (planing) is allowed - on your feet, sitting, on your back or on your legs and a backpack. The slope must end with a safe slope, free of open ice areas, rocky outcrops, large stones and pieces of ice; snow - free from medium and small stones. Planing while sitting and on the back is used to overcome narrow cracks and bergschrunds with an overhanging top edge with mandatory belaying with a rope. The descent must retain the ability to extinguish speed and stop at any moment.
Self-belay on snow and firn slopes is similar to self-belay on grassy slopes. When driving for three cycles, self-belay is carried out by an ice ax driven into the snow. Self-retention on loose and softened snow is carried out by thrusting an ice ax into the slope above the head with a bayonet and cutting through the snow with a shaft, when falling off on dense snow, firn, crust or on a thin layer of snow covering the ice, with the beak of an ice ax.
Along the snow ridges and along them they move with simultaneous or alternate belay. Exit to the ridge from the sub-cornice side is extremely dangerous, it can be carried out in the exception of cases with the utmost care with ascent along the "line of water fall" in the cold time of the day and cutting a cross-hole through the cornice, with a partner's belay from a sufficiently distant point. The traverse under the eaves is not allowed. Descent from the cornice is carried out with undercutting or cutting with a rope an extended section of the cornice with careful insurance.
The technique of moving on ice is mainly determined by the steepness of the ice slope, the state of its surface, as well as the type and properties of ice. When walking on ice, they usually use "cats", less often triconi. On steeper slopes, if necessary, artificial support points are used, and in particular: cutting steps and hand grips, driving in or screwing in ice hooks. Movement in “rejected” boots or “vibram” boots is possible on relatively gentle ice slopes, while the technique of movement is the same as when walking on grassy slopes. Moving on "cats", the legs are set slightly wider than during normal walking. The "cat" is placed on the ice with a light blow at the same time with all teeth, except for the front ones. The body should be vertical, its weight should be distributed evenly, if possible, on all the teeth of the "cat". At the next step, all the teeth of the "cat" should be lifted from the ice at the same time. The ice ax is held in the lanyard position in both hands - with the bayonet to the slope and the beak of the head down.
On gentle ice slopes (steepness up to 25-30 °) they rise straight "head-on". Legs are placed in a Christmas tree, turning the toes of the feet depending on the steepness of the slope. The ice ax is used as an additional fulcrum.
On steeper slopes (up to 40 °), they switch to a zigzag movement at an angle of 45 ° to the "water fall line". The soles of the feet are semi-herringbone: the one closest to the slope is horizontal, the far one is turned toe down, along the slope. When driving on slopes with a steepness of more than 40 ° without a backpack or with a light backpack, you can climb "head-on" on the four front (toe) teeth of the "crampons", simultaneously driven into the ice with weak fixed blows. The feet are parallel, the heels are lowered, the body is upright. The ice ax is held in a self-holding position in both hands in front of oneself, leaning on the slope with its beak directed perpendicular to the slope, the shaft is lowered with a bayonet. Movement in three steps, observing "two points of support" (the beak of an ice ax - a leg or two legs). Descent on gentle slopes is carried out straight down with a "goose step", driving all the teeth of the "crampons" into the ice at the same time. When the slope is steeper, they go down the rope. When driving with a load on steep sections, they resort to cutting down steps, while rising in a serpentine. The step should be spacious enough, without ice hanging over it, with a horizontal or slightly inclined surface. On a slope with a steepness of less than 50 °, steps are cut in the so-called open rack with two hands, with a greater steepness - in a closed rack with one hand. To descend, cut down double steps and move with an additional step, leaning with the bayonet of the ice ax in the lanyard position. The steps are located one under the other at approximately an angle of 15 ° to the "line of water fall". When moving along an ice ridge, steps, as a rule, are cut on its flatter side, or the ridge is also partially used.
Safety on the ice slope is ensured by self-belaying with an ice ax, hook belay, self-belaying belayer or with the help of fixed rope rails. The hooks are driven or screwed into pre-cut steps. The railing rope for ascent and descent is fixed on double hooks, an ice column (usually 50-60 cm in diameter) or an eyelet drilled with an ice screw.
Glaciers pass, as far as possible, along ice strips free of stones, along longitudinal ridges of surface moraines, along randclefts or troughs between coastal moraines and the slopes of the valley, along (or along) the ridges of coastal moraines. Access to the glacier is possible from the lower part of the valley through the end of its tongue or along the terminal moraine, bypassing the end of the tongue along the ridges of coastal moraines or randklyuft, with an ascent to the valley slopes and traverse them to a part of the glacier convenient for movement. Overcoming icefalls is carried out along a pre-planned route with a preview or reconnaissance of the entire forthcoming path: bypassing along the slopes of the valley, coastal moraines or randklyuft, directly along the ice along the coast or in the middle (with a trough-shaped surface or thick snow cover). The possibility of a through passage may be evidenced by the median surface moraine stretching from the upper reaches to the bottom of the icefall. Of the two parallel branches of the glacier, the less difficult is the longer one. Icefalls of southern and southwestern exposure with the same steepness of fall or difference in heights are easier to pass than those with northern or northeastern ones. Cracks are overcome by bypassing (tacking), jumping, including without backpacks, with the subsequent transfer of their hands, or using descent to the bottom and ascent to the opposite side, and sometimes with the guidance of an air crossing, similar to crossing rivers. Bergschrunds are crossed over snow bridges. If they are absent on the rise, the upper edge (wall) is overcome with the help of ice axes stuck into it or a "slanting hole" is made - a hole. Descent - by jumping or on a rope ("sitting" or "in a sports way"). On closed glaciers, which are especially dangerous, you should move in teams of 2-4 people. with an interval between the participants of at least 10-12 m, bypassing the zones of cracks arising on the convex parts of the glacier and the outer. the edges of its turns. When crossing unreliable snow bridges over cracks, alternate belay or belay with handrails is required.
