Unconquered Mountain. Gangkhar Puensum. The highest unconquered peak in the world. Machapuchare - the forbidden peak, the sacred abode of Shiva

Gangkhar Puensum is the most high mountain in Bhutan with a height of 7,570 meters, as well as the 40th highest peak in the world. Many will be very surprised, but Gangkhar Puensum still remains unconquered when most of the peaks in the Himalayas were conquered decades ago.

The summit of Gangkhar Puensum lies on the border of Bhutan and Tibet, although the exact border is disputed. Chinese maps have placed the peak right at the border, while other sources have placed it entirely in Bhutan. When the mountain was first mapped in 1922, the area maps were horribly inaccurate. Even more recently, area maps have shown the summit at different locations and marked at different heights. One of the first teams that decided to conquer the summit could not find the mountain at all.


Bhutan only discovered itself for mountaineering in 1983, as the mountains were considered the abode of sacred spirits. When the country finally opened its doors to climbers, a series of expeditions were organized. Between 1985 and 1986, four attempts were made that ended in failure. The decision to go mountaineering did not last long. In 1994, the government banned mountain climbing above 6,000 meters, and since 2004, mountaineering in the country has been completely banned, out of respect for local omens.


In 1998, a Japanese expedition obtained permission from the Chinese Mountaineering Association to climb Gangkhar Puensum north of Bhutan on the Tibetan side. But a long-standing border dispute with Bhutan never allowed it to happen. Instead, the expedition traveled to the 7,535-meter nearby Gangkhar Puensum North peak, which had not previously been conquered. The climbers concluded that the expedition to the main summit would be successful if allowed to organize.


Bhutan itself has not explored the peak either, and the country has no interest in conquering it anytime soon. With the difficulty of obtaining permits from the government, as well as the lack of rescue support, the mountain will likely remain unconquered for the near future.

At one time, revered mountain climbers said that they had closed the book of discoveries in mountaineering - there was nothing more to do, they said. But the first car was very far from the fast cars we drive today. Mountaineering legends have paved the way, now a new generation faces a difficult task: to climb more difficult routes, or find other peaks.

Mianzimu (6054 m), Tibet, sacred mountain, there were no ascents. Photo by Janne Corax.

One of those who are interested in this is Simone Moro, by the way, he is. Several years ago, Simone, after a series of surveys, tried to climb Batura II, a peak that was said to be the highest peaks not yet conquered. Moreau was unable to reach the top - so this mountain still challenges climbers, as well as a number of other peaks that have not yet been stepped by a human foot.

But what kind of mountains are these, what criteria should be used to choose them? Climber, explorer and ExplorersWeb employee Janne Corax has compiled a list of the six highest unspoiled peaks, and added other interesting sites to it.

Happiness to be the first

Unconquered peaks are always very attractive. Reaching the highest point that no one has ever been to is a special pleasure for a climber. In 1950, Erzog and Lachenal ascended Annapurna - the first eight-thousander, which people climbed - thereby opening the "hunt" for 13 other giants. The last to fall was Shisha Pangma under the feet of the Chinese team, 14 years later.

Now the high-altitude climbers have turned their thoughts towards slightly lower goals.

Namche Barwa, 7782 m, challenging mountain with extreme terrain and always bad weather conditions, reflected attempts at climbing, until in 1992 the Japanese team managed to reach the summit. The climbers were also interested in the second peaks of the eight-thousanders, and they surrendered one after the other - the last was Lhotse Sredny, 8414 m, which a strong Russian team climbed in 2001.

Meili ridge, view from the Tibetan temple. Mianzimu is on the left, Meili Feng is the highest peak on the right. Photo by Janne Corax.

What's next?

Now the question is, which peaks are the most promising out of so far not covered?

To answer it, you must first define the selection criteria. Two of them are obvious: the mountain must be very high and unconquered. The third criterion is precisely the problem and is causing a lot of debate:

Real mountains / gendarmes on the ridge

Sometimes it is really a problem to distinguish between the big gendarme on the ridge and the real summit.

For example, many believe that the greatest difference in height is between the peak of Lhotse, the Middle and the lowest point of the jumper, which connects it to more high peak Is actually a very small value.

Unfortunately, there is no absolute standard, and some use the relative difference of 7% as a measure, while others use 400 m. If we take into account the 500-meter limit as a compromise, then the list we need will look like this.

Six highest virgin peaks

Gangkar Punsum, 7570 m - the peak, located in Bhutan, in the list of the highest mountain peaks is number 40, and without a doubt it is "number 1" on our list. An educated person will guess that the mountain will remain under this number for the time being. In the mid-80s, they tried to climb it, but all the expeditions returned not salty. In 1994, in Bhutan, the summits were partially closed for climbing. And in 2003, the government decided to ban all types of lasagna altogether. The reason for this is in the area of ​​understanding local beliefs and traditions.

"Number 2" on our list - Saser Kangri II East, 7518 m. The mountain is located in Indian Kashmir and has never before been of interest to climbers (at least there were no expeditions to it). The third highest peak of the array was ascended twice. It is difficult to get a permit for climbing in this area, but it is possible. A man's foot set foot on the main peak, 7672 m high in 1973.

Kabru north, 7394 m - the highest point of the Kabru massif, which in fact is a subgroup of the Kanchenjunga massif - has not yet been conquered. Surprisingly, its lower south peak fell back in 1935. A notable ascent was made by Konrad Cook, who climbed to the top solo at the age of 18. This was a record for his age.
A Serb team tried to climb Kabru North in 2004, but avalanches forced them to retreat.

Labuche Kang is a little-known mountain group in Tibet. The main peak was conquered in 1987 by a Japanese team. Eastern - Labuche kang iii- about 7250 m high and still waiting for its first climbers.

The impressive southeast face of Karjiang - whose avalanche slopes and challenging edges reflect all climbers' efforts. Photo from the Dutch Karjiang 2001 expedition archive.

Karjiang, 7221 m - also located in Tibet. A couple of times they tried to climb it, but no one has yet managed to step on its hard-to-reach summit. Extreme avalanche danger and high technical complexity have made attempts to climb fruitless so far.

"Number 6" on our list - Tongshanjiabu, 7207 m. Rises on the Tibetan / Bhutan border. Koreans who climbed neighboring Shimokangri (7204 m) mentioned this peak in the expedition report and published a photo in the Japanese Alpine News - so far this is the only information available about this mountain.

Statements and misinterpretations

I should note that the six above-mentioned peaks will give a head start to the rest of the dispute when it comes to steepness and the first criterion - untouched by climbers. However, there are always rumors and statements on the mountaineering scene. Wherever you go, locals or climbers will show you up the mountain and say, “Look here! Nobody has climbed it yet! "

On another level, famous climbers sometimes claim the goal of their expedition to be "the highest peaks not yet conquered." V last time I heard about this when in 2004 Moro & Ogwyn - the Italian-American deuce went to Batura II. The 7,762-meter giant in Pakistani Karakorum was, in their words (and "scientific sources"), the highest of the peaks that a man did not climb. If you count the gendarme on the ridge with a difference of 100 m in height between its "peak" and the main mountain, then this statement, of course, contains a grain of truth, however: there are other high points on the ridge, some of which are higher than Batura II ... *

Untouched celebrities

Pilgrims aspire to Mt. Kailash every year. They go around the mountain with prayers, but never step on its slopes. Climbing is strictly prohibited. Photo by Project Himalaya.

The most famous of the unconquered peaks are lower than those we have named. Kailash in Western Tibet, the mountain is sacred to Hindus, Buddhists and followers of the Bön religion. No one has ever climbed to its top, and permits are not issued, since this place is a shrine.

Whole Meili ridge known as Kawa Korpo, in the far northeast of Yunnan province in China, is also considered sacred to local residents... They tried to ascend some of the ridge peaks at the time when permits for ascents were issued. On this moment these mountains are closed for climbers.

Mianzimu in the Meili ridge is considered one of the most beautiful peaks in the world, as well as Kailash.

* In one of the interviews, when Simone was asked why he called Batura II the highest of the peaks that a person did not climb, he referred to the data of the expert Wolfgang Hichel and invited those interested in this issue to contact him personally by e-mail [email protected]

Translation by Elena Dmitrenko

Near Mount Kailash, travelers experience completely new sensations that they did not know before. Some people feel good and it seems as if the most beautiful place on earth is around, they are no longer afraid of anything, the surrounding place begins to scare others and seem to push away from themselves, many are speechless. Someone says that if you ask a question that worries you not far from this mountain, then you can solve it easily and outside the box.

Mythic frontier

Recently, in addition to pilgrims, dozens of expeditions have been flocking to the mountain, people who dream of conquering the snowy peak. However, something special happens to each of them: a mythical boundary rises in front of someone, which he cannot cross, no matter how much he wants to. For others, as soon as they touch the mountain, their palms become blistered.

Amazing and geographical position Mount Kailash: it is 6666 km from the North Pole, the distance from the South Pole to the foot of the mountain is twice as large, but Stonehenge is also 6666 km away.

However, physically, the mountain is rarely opposed to climbers, avalanches and rockfalls are rare here. Nevertheless, all tourists willingly refuse to go upstairs literally after 300-400 meters. Be near sacred mountain only the most rejected people can do it.

The Legend of the "Stone Mirrors"

However, there is a sacred road up the mountain that can be reached. There is a legend about two travelers who turned off the sacred road when they climbed Mount Kailash, after returning to their village in just a few months young people aged 60 years and died. Doctors then could not find any apparent reason for such a wilting.

Recently, thanks to the experiments carried out, it was revealed that in 12 hours at Mount Kailash, nails and hair in people grow as much as they would grow under normal conditions for two to three weeks.

Near the foot of the mountain there is a "Cemetery" where the bodies of Tibetans are taken out to be eaten by vultures. Such a funeral is considered auspicious for the soul of the deceased.

Extremals have tried to climb these peaks more than once. But something always bothers them: now hunger, now the weather, now suddenly adopted laws. Be warned: the article is full of beauty and aesthetics, from which the next eight unconquered peaks becomes even more desirable. Especially if you are extreme, love heights, and have been looking for thrills for a long time.

Gangkhar Puensum
Height: 7,570 meters
Location: border between China and Bhutan
Why not subdued: stupid laws
Gangkhar Puensum is located on the disputed border between China and Bhutan. It is not precisely disputed that Gangkhar Puensum is the highest of the still unconquered peaks. In the 1980s, four ascent attempts were made, after which a law was passed in Bhutan prohibiting mountaineering at an altitude of over 6 km.

The north face of Masherbrum 4 subtly hints: "Don't even try to climb me."

North Face of Masherbrum 4
Height: 7.821 m
Location: Pakistan
Why Not Conquered: Extreme Difficulty
Masherbrum was conquered back in 1960 along a fairly simple route. But there is a wall that no one has ever climbed. The reason is the same - the route is “unrealistically extreme”.

Mount Siple
Height: 3,110 m
Location: Siple Island, Antarctica
Why not conquered: harsh climate
This peak is located in Antarctica, and the main difficulty in conquering it is not the route, but the low temperature and remoteness from the civilized world. There are suspicions that Mount Siple is actually an extinct volcano covered by a glacier.

Machapuchare
Height: 6.998 m
Location: north central Nepal
Why not subdued: religion and law
The most beautiful mountain peak, due to its steep slopes, clearly stands out against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition, organized by Jimmy Roberts, stopped just fifty meters from the summit. Conquer one of beautiful mountains Himalayas they were thwarted by a promise made to the government of Nepal. The bottom line is that in the beliefs of the Hindus, it is at the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of the religion, Shiva, dwells. Despite the fact that Roberts' team kept their promise, the top officials of Nepal immediately closed Machapuchara to any visits.

Be warned: the article is full of beauty and aesthetics, from which the next eight unconquered peaks becomes even more desirable. Especially if you are extreme, love heights, and have been looking for thrills for a long time.

Gangkhar Puensum

• Height: 7,570 meters
• Location: border between China and Bhutan
• Why not subdued: stupid laws

Gangkhar Puensum is located on the disputed border between China and Bhutan. It is not precisely disputed that Gangkhar Puensum is the highest of the still unconquered peaks. In the 1980s, four ascent attempts were made, after which a law was passed in Bhutan prohibiting mountaineering at an altitude of over 6 km.

Source: wikipedia.org

North Face of Masherbrum 4

• Height: 7.821 m
• Location: Pakistan
• Why Not Conquered: Extreme Difficulty

Masherbrum was conquered back in 1960 along a fairly simple route. But there is a wall that no one has ever climbed. The reason is the same - the route is “unrealistically extreme”.

Source: supercoolpics.co

Mount Siple

• Height: 3,110 m
• Location: Siple Island, Antarctica
• Why not conquered: harsh climate

This peak is located in Antarctica, and the main difficulty in conquering it is not the route, but the low temperature and remoteness from the civilized world. There are suspicions that Mount Siple is actually an extinct volcano covered by a glacier.

Source: wikipedia.org

Machapuchare

• Height: 6.998 m
• Location: north of central Nepal;
• Why not subdued: religion and law

The most beautiful mountain peak, thanks to its steep slopes, clearly stands out against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition, organized by Jimmy Roberts, stopped just fifty meters from the summit. To conquer one of the most beautiful mountains of the Himalayas, they were prevented by a promise given to the government of Nepal.

The bottom line is that in the beliefs of the Hindus, it is at the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of the religion, Shiva, dwells. Despite the fact that Roberts' team kept their promise, the top officials of Nepal immediately closed Machapuchara to any visits.

Source: green-travel.biz

Kailash

• Height: 6.638 m
• Location: South of the Tibetan Plateau in the Tibet Autonomous Region of the People's Republic of China
• Why not subdued: “sacred” status

The Tibetan six-thousander is considered a sacred mountain among representatives of four major religions at once - Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and adherents of the faith called Bon. Despite the fact that Kailash is under the jurisdiction of the Chinese government, which occupied Tibet, it is the sacred status of the peak that has not allowed to conquer it until now.

All known attempts to climb the mountain have failed for one reason or another. For example, the famous climber Reinhold Messner, who received permission from the Chinese authorities to conquer Kailash, subsequently refused to climb, and the Spanish expedition in 2000, which bought a pass for an impressive amount, was stopped by thousands of pilgrims who blocked the route and protests from the UN.

Source: wikipedia.org

Tongshanjiabu

• Height: 7.207 m
• Location: Central Himalayas, 12 kilometers northwest of Kangphu Kang
• Why not conquered: laws

The peak, which rises to the sky at 7207 meters, is also located on the constantly contested Tibetan-Bhutanese border. Not a single attempt was made to climb Tongshanjiab even up to the law "everything that is higher than six thousand is not allowed." After him, of course, even more so. At the same time, the Korean expedition took the neighboring Shimokangri, which was lucky to find itself completely on the Chinese side.