Hissar- urban-type settlement (shahraki Khisor) - the administrative center of the Hissar region (nokhiyai Khisor) of the Republic of Tajikistan is located in the central part of the Hissar valley (dar of the vodii Khisor), 18 km west of the capital - Dushanbe. In the northern part of the district, the Dushanbe-Termez highway has been laid, connecting Tajikistan with Uzbekistan.
And also on the territory of the shahrak there is an interstate Railway, at the station there is a building of the "Honaka" station, in the west the Hanaka River flows from north to south. The Great Gissar Canal flows through the center, it was built in 1942.
The population of the village is 25 thousand inhabitants.
Representatives of different nations live in the village of Gissar - Tajiks, Uzbeks and Russians.
In the period after the attainment of state independence of Tajikistan, on June 26, 1993, Gissar officially became a city, and for 12 years it had the status of a city until it was again transformed into a settlement (taj. Shahrak) in 2005.
Gissar climate- sharply continental. This is due to the emergence of the region among huge mountains, such as surrounded by the Hissar in the north, Gazimalik in the south, and Babatag mountains in the south-west.
History of Gissar, the current village of Gissar, is closely connected with the ancient city of Gissar, which has a 3500 year old past with a rich culture.
By archaeological finds, which were excavated in the territories of Gissar, historians and archaeologists came to the conclusion that people lived here 40 thousand years ago. This is probably why this old settlement never ceases to impress tourists coming to Tajikistan. Due to the popularity of the ancient Gissar fortress, the guides learned the whole history of Gissar and its attractions by heart.
Gissar Historical and Cultural Reserve- the object was built in the late 80s of the 20th century, 5 km from the center of the Gissar region. Museum under open air an area of 86 hectares unites archaeological and architectural monuments different eras located in this territory.
Hissar fortress – Kalai Hisor one of the most famous historical buildings in Central Asia, built 2500 years ago. The fortress has the main gate - the arch, built in the 16th century by the Bukhara emir. At that time, the fortress served as the residence of the Emir of Bukhara. The fortress with walls about 1 meter thick represented a huge courtyard with a pool and a large garden. Large staircases and brick-lined terraces led to the main entrance. But, unfortunately, they have not survived to this day. Today, two huge plane trees with an age of 500-700 years grow next to the Hissar fortress.
Old madrasah - Madrasai kuhna- a brick building, the area of which was 2250 square meters with a portal entrance, crowned with a dome, was built in the 16-17 centuries. It was located opposite the Hissar fortress and the Koran was studied there. Also preserved from the old premises is the library.
New madrasah - Madrasai nav- it was built in the 17-18 centuries, to this day, unfortunately, only the two-story facade of the madrasah has survived, and the main part was completely destroyed.
Karvan-sarai "Khishtin"- an old, renovated brick hotel. Another of the remarkable buildings of the Hissar complex was located opposite the fortress. It was built in the 17th - 18th centuries in the middle of the market square, which possessed many shops.
Mausoleum-Mahdumi Azam- "The Greatest Lord", the historical monument of Gissar is located next to the Old Madrasah, was built in the 16-17 centuries. Khoja Muhammad Haywoki is supposedly buried here.
Sangin Mosque- maschidi sangin (stone mosque) - a monument of Tajik architecture, which is located in the Gissar reserve was built in the 12th - 16th centuries.
Walking tour of the Hissar fortress.
“The natives are very great masters of choosing for their mehmon-khon and balle-khon such points from where they could gaze over the greatest horizon. And in this respect, the main hill of the Hissar fortress with the kush-begi palace should be considered ideal. With it, the entire fortress and the entire city to the last shack, the entire city wall, even the four watchtowers, the course of the Honaka River, part of the Kafirnigan River, a huge section of the Gissar Valley and, finally, the Kary-baba-tag mountains with the famous “Pavi-dul-dul”, in a word, literally everything, all the surroundings are visible to the smallest detail ”
Lieutenant B.N. Litvinov. XIX v.
One day sightseeing trip to Hissar .
The Gissar valley, located in the central part of the Republic of Tajikistan, is the most interesting region in archaeological terms.
Developed in ancient times, it has concentrated in itself hundreds of monuments reflecting all the historical stages that the Tajik people and their ancestors had to go through.
Dozens of centuries of history that have swept over the Gissar Valley have left as a legacy up to 300 historical objects related to the Stone and Bronze Ages, the Early Iron Period, Antiquity, the Early, Developed and Late Middle Ages.
Archaeological research has shown that, starting from the end of the Bronze Age and over the next millennia, the Hissar fortress was the center of an extensive historical cloudy archaeological and architectural monuments.
In the zone of the reserve, the most ancient traces of human habitation are the monuments of the late stage of the Stone Isty, about which ancient and medieval geographers wrote.
The Gissar Historical and Cultural Reserve stands out for its unique collection of different times and different Kharaeks - the Neolithic era (V - III millennium BC). These include several stone tools found on the territory of the fortress, around the spring that stands out in the western part, one of its components - Askarhon and the large Te-pai Gaziyon site.
It was the first Neolithic monument found in South Tajikistan by academician A.P. Okladnikov in 1946. The Gissar fortress is the palace of one of the beks of the Bukhara Emirate.
30 kilometers from the city of Dushanbe and 5 kilometers from the village of Gissar. Under this name archaeological and architectural monuments different eras, located on an area of about 86 hectares.
The location of the reserve is the Gissar valley - a vast intermountain depression, through which the Kafirnigan, Karatag, and Shirkent rivers flow. Life in this place began in the Stone Age, in the IV-III millennia BC.
Later, the territory of the valley was part of Bactria, then the Greco-Bactrian and Kushan states. This is evidenced by the remains of ancient settlements and settlements found by archaeologists. Today, only rounded embankments, called "tepa" - "hill", remain of them.
During the Middle Ages, Gissar was a city famous for its handicrafts and market center. In the XVIII - XIX centuries it turned into the Gissar bekstvo - one of the 28 possessions of the Bukhara Emirate.
Earlier in the sacred book of Zoroastrians "Avesta" this territory is referred to as "Shumon". For the first time the word "Hissar" ("Hissor"), as the name of a settlement, city or administrative structure, was mentioned in the 11th century.
Then this word meant a settlement, where the state troops were located and the craft and market developed. Then the city was the center of the most independent part of the Samanid state.
From these times, the Gissar fortress has survived, which today has been turned into an open-air museum. The fortress with walls up to 1 meter thick, with loopholes for guns and cannons, rose on the slope of a high hill and was guarded by guards.
Inside there was a pool and garden. Opposite the fortress was a noisy market square with a caravanserai and many shops. Large staircases and brick-lined terraces led to the main entrance.
Unfortunately, they have not survived to this day, as, indeed, the entire building of the palace. The only thing left of the fortress is a monumental gate made of baked brick with two cylindrical towers, between which there is a pointed arch, so most of Bukhara's gates were built in the 18th - 19th centuries.
This fragment looks majestic and impressive today. A number of legends supported by local residents are associated with the Hissar fortress. According to one of them, the fortress was built by Afrasiab to protect against Rustam (the famous heroes of Firdousi's work "Shahnameh").
Another legend says that the righteous Caliph Ali came to these places on his horse Dul-dul to preach Islam and stopped at the mountain, which today is called Poi-Dul-dul (west of Gissar).
Disguised as an acrobat-tightrope walker, he made his way from the mountain to the fortress, but here he was recognized and captured. But his faithful horse brought him the sword of Zulfikar. With the help of this sword, he destroyed all enemies, including the evil wizard who owned the fortress at that time.
Near the fortress there are two huge plane trees, which are 500-700 years old. A unique historical and cultural reserve has been created in Gissar, organized back in the late eighties of the XX century. This includes:
1. Hissar fortress with an arch (gate). It was built by hand. She is 2500 years old. The main gate is - gate - arch. The gate was built in the 16th century and has been completely restored today.
2. Registan (square in front of the fortress).
6. Mosque "Chashmai mohiyon" (Stone Mosque). It was built in the VIII century. Two verandas and a tower in the XIV century. Today it has been rebuilt to match the old look.
7. Mosque "Sangin".
8. Historical Museum. Located in the building of an old madrasah. It contains the entire range of monuments and exhibits (more than 3200 items) found during the excavations carried out on the territory of the city of Gissar and beyond.
The city of Gissar itself had a rectangular shape, elongated along the northeast - southwest line. The total area was 426.5 hectares. The length of the defensive wall, built of pakhsa, is 5 km; today it has survived to a height of 5 - 7 meters.
In the XVIII - XIX centuries. Madrasahs Chashmai Mohiyon and Koriyon are being built in Rabad. Craft quarters were formed - potters with the Kulolcharon mosque and tanners with the Charmgron mosque.
Hisor craftsmen made different kinds fabrics, especially the silk fabric “Alochai siyokhkor”, “Alochai let the pestilence”, etc. were famous. The patterns applied had a special name "Mortob" - a wriggling serpent, "Doiragul" - a round flower, "Pancha" - a five-hand, and many other names.
Khissor craftsmen continue the traditional handicraft production of their ancestors to this day. They make excellent ceramic, jewelry and musical instruments.
This is a fortress and a palace of one of the beks, that is, the governors of the Bukhara emir.
The Hissar fortress is located to the west of Dushanbe at a distance of only 25-26 kilometers.
It has, of course, been restored and, apparently, quite seriously. In any case, people in the know say that much has actually been rebuilt. But this is understandable, because it was built of baked brick, which, however, lasts and lasts longer than unbaked, but still, under the influence of the sun, rain and snow, gradually disintegrates into dust.
This is what the gates of the fortress look like:
If you look closely, you can see the line of the wall going up the mountain. The same wall (or rather, the remainder of the wall) stretches to the other side of the gate.
It is natural that locals tell a number of legends associated with this fortress. And one of them is associated with the heroes of the Shakhname epic. According to legend, the Hissar fortress was built by one of the heroes of the epic Afrosiab to protect himself from Rustam.
There is another legend. She is associated with the righteous Caliph Ali. Ali was a cousin and son-in-law of the Prophet Muhammad himself. He was the fourth caliph and from him, in fact, Shiism originates. The word "shi" a, pronounced completely in Arabic, will be "shi" at "Ali" - "followers of Ali." on Mount Poi-Dul-dul, from where he lowered a rope to the Hissar fortress and made his way there under the guise of a tightrope walker. But he was recognized and taken prisoner. To free himself, Ali summoned his horse, who galloped and brought his magic sword Zulfikor. The rest, as they say , was a matter of technology: the righteous caliph destroyed all enemies, including the evil wizard who owned the fortress.
This is what the top of the gate looks like. 
And this is a madrasah, that is, a school, a seminary. I photographed her from the wall of the fortress. This is an old madrasah, built in the XVI- XVII centuries... The wall of the new (XVII-XVIII century) can be seen at the right edge of the frame. Unfortunately, nothing has survived there except this wall. 
Cells are located along the perimeter of the walls (there is now a museum) and in the center of the rectangular courtyard there is a well. 
And these are not museum exhibits. These are the household items of the caretakers. 
On the wall of the Hissar fortress. It seems to me that I myself could sit like that, looking into the distance and dreaming of campaigns, exploits and victories. The boys are still very similar to each other ... 
Lovers are also alike - the girls shyly turn away, and the guys try to look as strong as possible. 
Not far from the entrance to the fortress there is a well, which the locals consider sacred and to which they come to pray for the health of one of the family members or simply ask for well-being and prosperity. These people (apparently one family) are praying. 
And a few shots that I took on the way to Gissar. “Where are you from,” this woman asked me when I asked permission to photograph her. "From London," I replied. "And do you know English?"
The village of Gissar (taj. Khisor) is the administrative center of the Gissar region of the Republic of Tajikistan. It is located in the central part of the Gissar valley, 18 kilometers west of the outskirts of the capital of the republic - the city of Dushanbe. To the north of the village of Gissar is the central interstate highway Dushanbe - Termez, connecting Tajikistan with Uzbekistan. An interstate railway has been laid through the territory of the village. Works here railroad station Hanaka. In the west of Gissar, the Khanaka (Khanakinka) River flows from north to south. The largest in the republic, the Great Gissar Canal, built in 1942, flows through the village.
Seven kilometers south of the village is the Gissar fortress - evidence of the Tajik ancient culture of three thousand years ago, one of the largest architectural monuments in Central Asia. The climate in this Tajik region is sharply continental. The settlement of Gissar is surrounded from the north by the Gissar, from the south by the Gazimalik, from the south-west by the Babatag mountains.
The population of the village as of 2002 was 22 thousand 961 people. The population of this region includes representatives of such nations as Tajiks, Uzbeks, Russians, as well as a small percentage of other nations.
On June 26, 1993, Gissar officially received the status of a city, but in 2005 it was again transformed into a settlement (taj. Shahrak).
History of Gissar
The history of the modern village of Gissar is closely connected with the ancient city of Gissar, which today is a historical landmark, the pride of the entire Tajik people. The history of this place says that people lived here 40 thousand years ago. And the existence of the Tajik cultural heritage in the person of the Khissor (Hissar) culture is estimated at more than three thousand years.
For the first time the word "Hissar" ("Hissor"), as the name of a settlement, city or administrative center, was mentioned in the 11th century. Then this word denoted the settlement, where the state troops were located, and the craft developed. In ancient times, the city was the center of the most independent part of the Samanid state.
Until 1921, Gissar was the center of Eastern Bukhara. At all times, the Gissar bekstvo was notable for being relatively sovereign in relation to the central government, and two madrasahs functioned here.
Currently in the territory historic city Khisor is a historical and cultural reserve, organized in the late 60s of the 20th century. The reserve unites into a single structure a fortress with an arch (gate), registan (square in front of the fortress), old and new madrasahs, caravanserai (hotel), Chashmai mohiyon mosque, Sangi mosque, Mahdumi Azam mausoleum, historical museum and some others.
This land became home to such famous people as the poets Hasrat, Irsi, Pariya Hisori, Kamili, Sobir Zikirzoda, great thinker contemporary poet Mirzo Tursunzoda; scientist Nosirjon Masumi; writer Khabibullo Nazarov; singer Khusein Nasriddinov, famous tenor Adham Kholikov and many others.
In 1929, the Khanaka railway station was put into operation on the territory of Gissar. In this regard, a new locality in the form of a page. Later, in 1932, the village of Khanaka was transformed into the village council of Khanaka and declared the center of the newly formed Gissar region. In 1954, the Khanaka village council was divided, as a result of which the urban-type settlement of Gissar was formed. As already noted, in June 1993 the settlement was given the status of a city (regional subordination), and in 2005 the city of Gissar was again transformed into a settlement.
Sights of Gissar
Gissar Historical and Cultural Reserve. One of the main attractions of Tajikistan, the Gissar Historical and Cultural Reserve, is located 30 km from Dushanbe, 4-5 km from the village of Gissar. Under this name, archaeological and architectural monuments of different eras, located on an area of approximately 86 hectares, are today united.
The location of the reserve is the Gissar valley - a vast intermountain depression, through which the Kafirnigan, Karatag, and Shirkent rivers flow. Life in this place originated in the Stone Age, in 4 - 3 millennia BC. Later, the territory of the valley was part of Bactria, then the Greco-Bactrian and Kushan kingdoms. This is evidenced by the remains of ancient settlements and settlements found by archaeologists. Today, however, only rounded embankments, called "tepa" - "hill", remain of them.
During the Middle Ages, Gissar was a city famous for its handicrafts and market center. In the 18th - 19th centuries, it turned into the Gissar Bekstvo - one of the 28 possessions of the Bukhara Emirate. From these times, the Gissar fortress has survived, which today has been turned into an open-air museum.
At the end of the eighties of the 20th century, a unique historical and cultural reserve was created in Gissar, which included:
Hissar fortress with an arch (gate). It was built by hand. She is 2500 years old. The main gate is the arch gate. They were built in the 16th century and have been completely restored today.
Old madrasah. Medieval educational institution was built in the 16th century. Madrasah area - 2250 sq.m.
New madrasah.
Caravanserai (hotel). The brick caravanserai was built in 1808 during the reign of Saidbi Atolik and was used as a hotel.
Chashmai Mohiyon Mosque (Stone Mosque). It was built in the 8th century; two verandas and a tower - in the 14th century. Completely restored today.
Sangin Mosque.
Mausoleum of Makhdumi Azam. Is an historical monument 16th century, it was built on the site of the grave of Khoja Mohamed Haywoki. The area of the mausoleum is 609 sq.m.
The former residence of the bek, the governor of the Bukhara emir, is located 26 km west of the capital. The fortress with walls 1 m thick, with loopholes for guns and cannons was guarded by guards. Inside there was a pool and garden. Large staircases and brick-lined terraces led to the main entrance. Unfortunately, they have not survived to this day, as, indeed, the entire building of the palace. The only thing that remains of the fortress is a monumental gate made of baked bricks with two cylindrical towers, between which there is a pointed arch, so most of the gates of Bukhara were built in the 18th - 19th centuries. But even this fragment looks pretty impressive today.
Opposite the fortress there was once a noisy market square with a caravanserai and many shops. Opposite the entrance to the fortress, there is an Old Madrasah of the 17th century, where the Koran was studied. Nearby stands the New Madrasah of the 18th - 19th centuries. There is also a mausoleum of the 16th - 17th centuries.
A number of legends supported by local residents are associated with the Hissar fortress. According to one of them, the fortress was built by Afrosiab to defend against Rustam (the famous heroes of Ferdowsi's "Shahname").
Another legend says that the righteous Caliph Ali came to these places on his horse Dul-dul to preach Islam and stopped at the mountain, which today is called Poi-Dul-dul (west of Gissar). Under the guise of a tightrope walker, he made his way from the mountain to the fortress, but here he was recognized and captured. However, his faithful horse brought him the sword of Zulfiqar. With the help of this sword, he destroyed all enemies, including the evil wizard who owned the fortress at that time. Near the fortress there are two huge plane trees, which are about 500-700 years old.
Old madrasah - Madrasah-kukhna (16 - 17 centuries) - a brick building with a portal entrance, topped with a dome. When entering inside, a wide courtyard opens up, which is surrounded by khujras (cells) around the perimeter. At the beginning of the 20th century, from 100 to 150 students studied here. Classes stopped only in 1921. Also in the Old Madrasah there is a library building.
The new madrasah - Madrasah-nav (17th - 18th centuries), unfortunately, was almost completely destroyed. Only a two-story facade has survived from it.
Next to the Old Madrasah there is the mausoleum of Mahdumi Azam (16-17 centuries). "Makhdumi Azam" in translation means "The Greatest Lord" and is not a name, but rather a title or nickname. It is curious that on the territory Central Asia there are several complexes under this name, which are associated with various, really existing, people: state or religious leaders. Who is buried in the Gissar mausoleum remains a mystery. Presumably, this is Khoja Mohammed Haywoki.
Caravanserai (17th - 18th centuries). Another notable structure of the Hissar complex is the Khishtin caravanserai (which means “Brick”). By the 20th century, the caravanserai consisted of scattered remains of foundations and walls made of baked bricks no more than one meter high. The original view was captured only in a photograph of 1913, according to which the caravanserai was restored.
Sangin Mosque. Interesting monument Hissar reserve - domed mosque Sangin (12-16 centuries), which means "Stone". This is due to the fact that the walls of the mosque are half laid out of stone. Four ceramic jugs without a bottom are immured under the dome of the mosque. Thus, we have obtained original resonators designed to improve the acoustics of the room.
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One of the main attractions of Tajikistan, the Gissar Historical and Cultural Reserve, is located 30 km from Dushanbe (4-5 km from the village of Gissar).
Life in the Gissar valley, a vast intermountain depression along which the Kafirnigan, Karatag, Shirkent rivers flow, began in the Stone Age, in the IV-III millennia BC. During the Middle Ages, Gissar was a city famous for its handicrafts and market center. In the 18th - 19th centuries, it turned into the Gissar Bekstvo - one of the 28 possessions of the Bukhara Emirate. From these times, the Gissar fortress has survived, which today has been turned into an open-air museum.
The Hissar fortress is nothing more than the palace of one of the beks of the Bukhara Emirate. A fortress with walls 1 m thick, with loopholes for guns and cannons, rose on the slope of a high hill and was guarded by guards. Inside there was a pool and garden. Opposite the fortress was a noisy market square with a caravanserai and many shops.
Large staircases and brick-lined terraces led to the main entrance. During the civil war of 1918-1933, the fortress was almost completely destroyed, tk. it was occupied by the Basmachi. Partially restored in 1982 and restored in 2002. Unfortunately, they have not survived to this day, as, indeed, the entire building of the palace. The only thing that remains of the fortress, built by hand 2,500 years ago, is the monumental baked-brick gate with two cylindrical towers, between which there is a pointed arch. The gate (arch) was built in the 16th century in a typical Bukhara style, and today it has been completely restored. By the way, their image can be seen on the 20 somoni banknote.
Near the entrance to the fortress, there is a monument to the heroes of the Great Patriotic War, two huge plane trees grow, which are 500-700 years old, and there is a well, which the locals consider sacred and to which they come to pray for the health of one of the family members or simply ask for well-being and prosperity.
Opposite the fortress gates, the Old Madrasah has been preserved, and next to it you can see the facade of the New Madrasah. There is also the restored foundation of the Khishtin caravanserai, which was built in 1808 during the reign of Saidbi Atolik and was used as a hotel.
The old madrasah - Madrasah-kukhna (XVI-XVII centuries) - a brick building with a portal entrance, crowned with a dome. When entering inside, a wide courtyard opens up, which is surrounded by khujras (cells) around the perimeter. At the beginning of the 20th century, from 100 to 150 students studied here. Classes stopped only in 1921. Also in the Old Madrasah there is a library building. The new madrasah - Madresei-nav (XVII-XVIII centuries), unfortunately, is almost destroyed. Only a two-story facade has survived from it.
The mausoleum "Makhdumi Azam" (XVI-XVII centuries) is also located on the square. Mahdumi Azam translated means "The Greatest Lord" and is not a name, but rather a title or nickname. It is curious that on the territory of Central Asia there are several complexes under this name, which are associated with various, real-life people: state or religious leaders. Who is buried in the Gissar mausoleum remains a mystery. Presumably, this is Khoja Mohammed Haywoki.
A number of legends supported by local residents are associated with the Hissar fortress.
According to one of them, the fortress was built by Afrosiab to protect it from Rustam (the famous heroes of Ferdowsi's work “Shahnameh”).
Another legend says that the righteous Caliph Ali came to these places on his horse Dul-dul to preach Islam and stopped at the mountain, which today is called Poi-Dul-dul (west of Gissar). Disguised as an acrobat-tightrope walker, he made his way from the mountain to the fortress, but here he was recognized and captured. But his faithful horse brought him the sword of Zulfikar. With the help of this sword, he destroyed all enemies, including the evil wizard who owned the fortress at that time.
Sources of information:
http://www.advantour.com/rus/tajikistan/hissar/fortress.htm
http://www.jartour.ru/info/gissar_places.html
http://venividi.ru/node/5272
http://elint.kunstkamera.ru/catalog/gissarskij_istoriko_kulturnyj_zapovednik/
