The legend about the city of Kitezh, which is hidden under the waters of Lake Svetloyar, has long agitated the minds of scientists and science fiction writers. This year I was able to visit the legendary lake for the second time in my life. Perhaps I am too impressionable person, but…. thoughts of two years ago about the unusual and mysterious nature of this place again surfaced in my head.
Until now, there is no consensus about the history of the origin of the lake, although dozens of expeditions were equipped to Svetloyar in the Nizhny Novgorod region. Basically, these were "dry" scientific research - water intake, soil analysis and study of vegetation. But one of the expeditions was quite curious - scientists were looking for Kitezh-grad, which, according to legend, went under water during the attack of Batu.
The expedition found something, but I will tell you about this a little later, first you need to get acquainted with the lake itself.
Lake Svetloyar (photo and description)
A beautiful birch alley leads to Svetloyar, which immediately sets you in a positive mood.
We pass along the alley and a beautiful view opens up in front of us. Lake Svetloyar is small, almost perfectly round. The mirror area is 12 hectares, and the depth is about 30 meters.
The shore is equipped, there is a small beach. The water is not just pure ... .. it is pure and very soft. They say that water from a lake can be stored in a vessel for several years without losing its purity and taste.
Lake Svetloyar is a protected area. You cannot litter, make fires and put up tents. This is a very special place. The name of the lake speaks for itself - Svetly Yar (Yarilo is the Slavic sun god). However, there is another translation. Yar is a precipice, that is, a bright precipice.
There is a path around the lake and a wooden deck. At all times, people bypassed Lake Svetloyar, prayed and asked for something of their own.
The tradition has been preserved. According to legend, on the night of Ivan Kupala, you need to make a wish and go around the lake three times with a lit candle.
For me, it remains a mystery where paganism ends and Orthodoxy begins. July 6 is both a bright holiday of the icon of the Vladimir Mother of God, to which pilgrims come, and the night of Ivan Kupala, when they jump over the fire and let wreaths on the water. Truly the intricacies of faith, legends and paganism.
In ancient times, people did not swim in Lake Svetloyar, they just washed and drank water. Now there is no prohibition, so we gladly swam in the purest lake.
Someone lost their pectoral cross near our resting place. Kind people hung it on a branch of a tree, maybe there will be an owner ...
Kibelek Key
Not far from Lake Svetloyar is the Kibelek spring and the grave of three saints. If you wish, you can walk to the key. "Not far" is about 2 km (40-50 minutes), so calculate your strength.
About wooden church there is such a pointer. We go around the temple and go deep into the forest.
Two years ago, this place was a gorgeous chamomile field, on which we thoroughly stuck with the girls - we took pictures and weaved chamomile wreaths. This year the field was sown with oats. There will be another sign at the edge of the field, the main thing is to keep to the path. It's called the Pilgrim's Trail. On the way, you will come across benches for rest and wooden platforms, it is difficult to get lost.
And here is the key. You can wash, drink water and take with you.
Legends of Lake Svetloyar
Since I have touched on the topic of legends and traditions, it’s time to try to understand all the twists and turns of fairy tales, myths and scientific research.
So ... .. how real is the city of Kitezh?
The city of Kitezh is mentioned in the book of the 18th century, which is called the "Kitezh Chronicler" -
“The Grand Duke of Vladimir Georgy Vsevolodovich set up the town of Maly Kitezh on the banks of the Volga, and then went into the depths of the forests .... beautiful lake He ordered Svetloyar to build the city of Big Kitezh. "
(Small Kitezh - presumably Gorodets).
“And that city, Big Kitezh, was a hundred fathoms in length and width, and this measure was small. And the faithful prince George ordered to add another hundred yards in length ... ... And they began to build that stone city in the year 6673, the month of May on the first day ... ... And that city was being built for three years ... "
If Kitezh is just a legend, then where do such details about its construction come from? No, completely abandon the idea of existence ancient city not worth it.
It is known that Khan Batu ravaged Russian cities one after another, but Kitezh was not a trading city and did not play any significant military or political role. Why did he suddenly interest the khan? According to the description, almost the entire city consisted of churches, being a great spiritual center of the native Russian faith (not to be confused with Christianity!).
That is why Khan Batu sent his forces to Kitezh in order to destroy the shrine. Many peoples believed that with the destruction of shrines, the people themselves perish, for shrines are the soul of the people. The inhabitants of the city were not ready for the attack, they could only pray and hope for a miracle. The Russian gods saved the city by plunging it into the waters of Lake Svetloyar. Only a pure soul can see the city. So the legend says.
Expeditions to Lake Svetloyar. What have the scientists discovered?
During the expedition, the bottom silt was drilled five times from Literaturnaya Gazeta. One of the zaburs brought an interesting find - pieces of hard wood with noticeable oblique cuts. It could be a trail of an ax or a knife. Geologists in this place discovered another anomaly - bottom silt of a special composition. An oval anomaly was clearly visible on the echogram, and the geolocator recorded an area at the bottom that did not allow sound to pass through.
Divers descended to the bottom of the lake. But they didn’t add information, and there was even more idle talk. According to some reports, the divers did not see the bottom, in other words, the lake has a double bottom, i.e. there is another bottom, well below 30 meters. According to others, the divers generally refused to tell anything about the dive.
Few? I will add a couple more myths - stories of local residents. According to another belief, Kitezh is hiding not at the bottom of Svetloyar, but under the hills next to the lake. If you lean against the ground at night and listen, you can hear a quiet bell ringing.
Relatively recently, the legend about the miracle fish living in the lake went around the surrounding villages - "A big fish walks in Svetloyar, scares people"... Adam Olearius, who traveled across Russia in the 17th century, left interesting notes. Olearius encountered pagan tribes and described the sanctuary of a certain water deity, similar to a crocodile. So much for a miracle fish.
In conclusion, I cannot but tell you about another hypothesis - the lake was formed as a result of a meteorite falling. Interestingly, not far from Svetloyar there are two more lakes of similar configuration. They are also bordered by hills. A meteorite could split and fall in three pieces. Why not?
Holiday Ivan Kupala on Svetloyar
Every year, from 6 to 7 July, a folk festival of pagan origin is celebrated on the lake. Two years ago, we first arrived at Svetloyar on July 6th.
During the day, in the village of Vladimirskoe, Nizhny Novgorod region, various master classes are organized, and in the evening they arrange something like a folk performance-legends about the city of Kitezh. Ivan Kupala's night is the shortest of the year, and on Lake Svetloyar it is also magical. I succumbed to the general orgy, walked around the lake with a candle, and then until the morning we swam in the holy lake. You can't put up tents near the lake, so people slept right on the ground.
One of the most famous and mystical places Nizhny Novgorod region. Located near the village of Vladimirskoe, Voskresensky district. At present, Svetloyar is a natural monument of federal significance.
The area of Lake Svetloyar is about 12 hectares, length - 410 m, width - 315 m, maximum depth - about 29 m.
Legend of the city of Kitezh
Svetloyar is one of the most mysterious and legendary Russian lakes. Even scientists still have not come to a consensus on its origin. There is a famous legend about diving into a wonderful lake city of Kitezh who did not surrender to the troops Khan Batu... The story inspired the artists Vasnetsov, Roerich, Nesterov, and also inspired the musician Rimsky-Korsakov to write the opera "The Legend of the Invisible City of Kitezh and the Maiden Fevronia."
According to legend, in ancient times, Grand Duke Georgy Vsevolodovich first erected Small Kitezh on the Volga, later renamed Gorodets, and then, crossing several rivers and finding near Lyunda and Svetloyar a good place, also built Kitezh Bolshoi. Kitezh-grad was very large and famous, in its center there was a six-domed church, and the inhabitants of the city flourished.
However, a tragic year came when Batu attacked Russia. In 1238, the Vladimir-Suzdal principality was ruined, and Batu Khan set up his camp on the Sit River. The forces of Prince Yuri Vsevolodovich turned out to be unequal, and after a difficult battle he retreated to Small Kitezh, which was soon taken by assault. The prince with the remnants of his army was able to hide in Bolshoi Kitezh, and the Mongols, who had captured Small Kitezh, tortured prisoners and demanded to show the way to the city. One of the residents, who could not stand the torment, agreed to lead the enemies to the city through the Volga taiga. However, Kitezh, surrounded by enemies, was not going to surrender, and people prayed to God for protection. Soon the city sank down, and the hills and lake were covered with a cap on top of it, and the Mongols were frightened of such a miracle and disappeared.
Scientific research of Lake Svetloyar
Scuba divers explored Svetloyar and found there natural anomalies: underwater terraces are like stairs, steep underwater slopes alternate with horizontal sections of the bottom. This suggests that the lake was formed in parts. At a depth of 20 meters, they found small objects made of wood and metal from the 13th century period, probably left over from some ancient settlement. No more traces of civilization were found.
The lake was also explored instrumental. Using a hydrophone, scientists heard strange sounds like the echo of thunder during a storm. The geophysicists involved in the experiment said that these sounds come from a wave of magnetic disturbance that travels through the water and creates such an effect.
In some places the lake "screamed", in others there was silence. Also, a low buzzing sound was recorded with a hydrophone, the lake made it before sunrise and the full moon. According to legend, righteous people were given to see the walls of the snow-white city with golden domes of temples at this very time.
Mysticism of the lake Svetloyar
The modern path leading to the lake is called the Batu path, and along this road a person who is pure in heart and thoughts can come to Kitezh. The city is invisible, although the righteous can see the lights of the processions at the bottom and hear the bells ringing in the temples. Psychics say that the lake is the outlet for power.
The origin of the lake
The origin of the lake is also mysterious, since it has a depth of up to 36 meters, its shape is oval and even almost round, and the bottom is funnel-shaped. There is an opinion about the karst origin of the lake, and for its study they even equipped geological expedition... A well 300 meters deep was drilled near the lake, and it showed that up to 250 meters deep there are no karst rocks, but only sandstones, clays and loams, marls. Anhydrite, limestone and gypsum go deeper, however, they are not affected by karst processes. According to researchers, Svetloyar is a remnant of the ancient channel of the Lunda River, and due to the spring supply and runoff to the river, the lake is very clean, and the water in it is fresh and does not deteriorate for a long time. Some researchers believe that the lake was formed as a result of a meteorite hit.
The religious significance of the lake
The lake is a holy place, especially revered by the Orthodox, but not only pilgrims come here, but people interested in the mysteries of history and nature. On the lake there is chapel in the name of the Kazan Mother of God, stone with the footprint of the Virgin and holy spring Kibelek and grave of three saints.
Lake Svetloyar is the center of the holiday Ivan Kupala every year from 6 to 7 July. Anyone can become a participant in ancient rituals. However, it should be added that the Orthodox Church does not approve of the celebration of a pagan holiday.
How to get to Lake Svetloyar from Nizhny Novgorod
Lake Svetloyar is one of the most significant sights of the region, therefore excursions are conducted there from Nizhny Novgorod... However, you can get there on your own.
By public transport
By bus Nizhny Novgorod - Voskresenskoye and before reaching the final stop after turning to Voskresenskoye, get off at the village of Vladimirskoye. Or take the Kirovskoye electric train to Semyonov, and then take the Semyonov-Voskresenskoye bus (the railway and the bus station are combined). This option may be the fastest due to traffic jams at the exit from the city.
By car
Distance Nizhniy Novgorod - Vladimirskoe - Lake Svetloyar - 130 kilometers.
Go along the road Nizhny Novgorod - Kirov towards Semyonov. After Semyonov, after ~ 30 kilometers, turn right onto Voskresenskoye and drive another 10 kilometers before turning to Vladimirskoye (on the right).
In the village, you need to leave your car in a special parking lot and then walk through the birch alley for about a kilometer. Vehicle access to the lake is prohibited.
I love to visit mysterious places, rich in legends, with a strong energy. Therefore, at the first opportunity to visit Svetloyar and take a walk at the Ivan Kupala holiday, I went there, taking a couple of faithful friends.
How to get to Svetloyar
it fabulous lake is located in the usual village of Vladimirskoe, which is in the Voskresensky district of the Nizhny Novgorod region. We got there for several hours. First, we traveled for 1.5 hours by train from Nizhny Novgorod to Semyonov station. Then - by bus to Vladimirsky. The bus station is located near railway station... Buses run on schedule, but we didn't have to wait long. It takes about an hour to drive from the bus station to the village.
How is the holiday
V holidays Vladimirskoe turns into tourist centre... Hotels are overcrowded, crowds of people on the streets, cars with numbers from different regions of the country rush to the reserve.
We were sheltered by acquaintances of my friend. Without wasting time, we changed our clothes and hurried to the holiday. The wardrobe was thought out in advance and corresponded to the ethnic style: long skirts, blouses with embroidery. Our image fueled the feeling of a coming fairy tale.
A birch alley leads from the village to the lake. On it on holidays, they sell pottery, national costumes, jewelry, honey, toys, and also teach those who wish to minting coins and pottery. Ahead we saw people who, gathered in a small group, were looking at something with interest. Strange singing and music came from the crowd. It turned out that they were looking at the Krishnaites dancing in a circle, who were distributing sweets to onlookers to their songs. It is still a mystery to me what purpose the representatives of this religion pursue on Svetloyar on the holiday of Kupala. It is interesting that on this night Orthodoxy, paganism and even Hare Krishnas are intertwined here.
The fact is that according to legend, a long time ago on the site of the lake was the city of Kitezh, whose inhabitants were very bright people. They worshiped the sun god Yarila. Khan Batu from the Tatar horde, having heard about the rich decoration of the churches of Kitezh, decided to plunder the city. The townspeople had no weapons except prayer. When the Tatar khan approached the gates of the city, the inhabitants, who had no weapons except prayer, began to fervently pray for salvation. And at the moment when Batu decided to storm the fortress, Kitezh disappeared, leaving a round lake in its place ...
On the eve of the Kupala night, the village honors the icon of the Vladimir Mother of God. Most likely, that is why pagan rituals are harmoniously interwoven into the Christian festival, creating a unique atmosphere of a fairy tale. Perhaps this unity and feeling of goodness attracts representatives of other religions here. Everyone wants to join the miracle.
Hello, Svetloyar!
For these reflections, we reached the lake itself. The tents covered the banks tightly. Someone sat right on the grass under umbrellas. Swimming is prohibited here, but it didn't stop anyone. Some played ball in the water, dived, swam. Others, according to the Orthodox custom, went into the water, were baptized and dipped three times. To be honest, the totality of it all looked ridiculous.
As soon as we went out to the lake, a wooden church on the hill caught my eye. Someone told me that it was made without a single nail. Services are held in it to this day. The legs went there by themselves. Near it there are two stones surrounded by candles. On the first stone, a depression is clearly visible, like a heel mark. It is believed that the Mother of God stepped on this stone. Now he fulfills any desires. And the second stone is capable of healing.
From the hill we had a stunning view: the glare of the evening dawn was reflected in the lake, round like a saucer. A thick fog descended on the water, taking bizarre shapes... It seemed as if human figures were walking on the water surface. I involuntarily recalled the inhabitants of Kitezh. Aren't they watching us, joining the common holiday?
Before the onset of the Kupala night, each unmarried girl weaves a wreath for herself. Here, not only girls adorned themselves with them, but also girls, grandmothers and even some men. There was a huge chamomile field nearby, so it was these flowers that adorned most of the heads. My friends and I also decided to keep up with tradition.
In addition, at the end of the holiday, the wreath was important in the ritual for a happy marriage. Taking pity on the daisies, we wove wreaths of various weed vegetation. It turned out shaggy and funny!
Religious procession - the culmination of the holiday
All day long folklore groups performed on the bank of Svetloyar. Towards evening, a gate decorated with ribbons and flowers was installed. When it got completely dark, preparations began for the culmination of the holiday - a procession of the cross around the lake. The priest served a small service and everyone lined up behind him with candles in their hands. Exactly at midnight, to the ringing of bells, the procession began around the lake.
They say that if you go around the lake with prayer and ask for something good, then it will definitely come true. Local residents said that during the war, those women who crawled around the lake on their knees three times met their husbands and sons alive. And now people were walking around Svetloyar in complete silence. Everyone was thinking about their dream. From the heights of the hills, it looked like a chain of fireflies surrounded the lake. A beautiful and unforgettable sight - an endless string of lights! We bought thick wax homemade candles from a local grandmother. Burning, they exuded the sweet smell of honey.
During the detour, only candles lit the road. It was a little scary to walk, sometimes it seemed that I was treading along a narrow path, and around a dark abyss. I glared at the back of the neighbor in front, so as not to stumble. We walked around the lake for about an hour. After that we decided to go in search of a fern. They say that on this night he blooms and having found him, a person acquires unique abilities: he understands the speech of animals and birds, and all the treasures themselves open before him. But all evil spirits will interfere with finding the cherished flower.
Having moved a short distance from each other, so as not to get lost, we went through the forest with candles. It was scary. Our search was completed quickly, because ahead from the bushes there was a noise and some strange ringing. We quickly huddled together and wanted to run away, when suddenly several Hare Krishnas came to us, jingling sagats. Were they also looking for a flower?
Laughing, we returned to the lake and let our wreaths sail, hoping that they would not moor back to the shore. Otherwise, you will not see marriage as your ears. Now it was possible to return home.
On the road of Khan Batu to the city of Kitezh
At dawn, we went to the Kibelku spring, and on the way we looked at the lake. The promenade had long ceased, a pleasant dawn freshness and silence reigned around. Here is grace! We went up to the church. Each of us made a wish at the stone of the Mother of God.
First they walked to the key in a huge chamomile field, and then through the forest. According to the legend, it was along this road that Khan Batu led his army to Kitezh. The path to Kibelka is lined with boards. A fern grows around the carpet. The feeling was that we were in a fairy tale. Just look, Baba Yaga's hut will appear. To go to the key for more than 2 km, but fatigue was not felt, the morning freshness invigorated.
Before getting some water, we visited the last attraction - the graves of the three elders. According to the legend, they tried to stop Batu, but were killed by him. It is surprising that the gravestone mounds are very long, as if these elders were extremely tall. A man was sitting at the graves. As if having read my thoughts, he said that there used to be people here, whose height was about 2 m. Hence the epic heroes. He talked for a long time about the energy of this place, how to feel it and gain strength.
Having collected water on the road, we went home. In the village, they asked a local woman for the bus schedule. The woman also turned out to be talkative and, in addition to the flight schedule, told about the planet where dolphins live. On Svetloyar during the holidays you constantly meet such strange people. But this is not annoying, on the contrary, it gives mystery. At parting, the woman wished us great happiness.
In conclusion, I want to say that when planning a trip to Svetloyar for the holiday of Ivan Kupala, accommodation should be booked six months in advance, otherwise there will be no places. The village has a hotel and a guest house. The price of the room ranges from 700 to 1500 rubles per day. There is a shared kitchen where you can cook. It is better to go to a holiday, when it falls on weekdays, there will be fewer people.
This sight is worth seeing once in a lifetime. For those who are more interested in the energy of the place, who want to relax their souls and put their thoughts in order, it is better to visit the lake on ordinary days, calmly enjoying the beauty, be alone with yourself. You can visit the local museum, where the legends of the lake and many more interesting things will be told in detail. By the way, my wish came true. Arriving at Svetloyar and going around it, listen to the sound of the bells of the city of Kitezh from the bottom of the lake.
Have you read the story? Now you can play. We bet you won't win!
Discussion: 4 comments left.
09.07.2016 year. We discovered the route Lake Svetloyar - Nizhny Novgorod by chance.
Heat. June. I wanted to spend the weekend in nature, to relax somewhere near the water. After Indian Ocean For some reason I didn’t want to swim on the beaches of the city, but the water bloomed on the Gorky Sea. Of the five nearby reservoirs, our choice fell by chance on Lake Svetloyar. Mainly because it was easy to get there. We did not immediately understand what an unusual place we were in. But all in order ...
Where is Lake Svetloyar
Lake Svetloyar is located at: Nizhny Novgorod Region, Voskresensky district, Vladimirskoe village. 130 km to the North-East from Nizhny Novgorod.
How to get to the lake by car and public transport, the timetable for buses and trains, these and other issues are covered in detail in a separate article.
On the diagram of the village of Vladimirskoye, you can take a closer look at the location of Lake Svetloyar and its surrounding attractions, as well as the rules of conduct in the protected area.
Lake Svetloyar Nizhny Novgorod region - photo
Our land is a bottomless sky, cornflowers in the fields, birch groves, darkened wooden churches, smoke from chimneys, heating baths, fog over the water ... and the pearl of the region is Lake Svetloyar. Since ancient times, the beauty of these places has been noted by all who have been here. Now Lake Svetloyar is favorite place recreation for residents of Nizhny Novgorod and the Nizhny Novgorod region. There are so many swimmers on weekends in summer that you cannot push through to the depth, as if you get to sea beach in the movie "Sportloto 82".
At the beginning of the birch alley leading to the lake, on Saturdays and Sundays, you can meet a guide with a name like an ancient saint - Vera. She is an employee of the Kitezh Historical and Art Museum and conducts interesting excursions definitely worth listening to. The cost of the tour is purely symbolic - 100 rubles per person.
The Kitezh Museum is also worth a visit. For the same amount (100 rubles) you will see three thematic expositions: about Svetloyar, about life in an ancient Slavic hut and a historical and archaeological one. Rare exhibits are complemented interesting story. Entrance ticket it also gives an opportunity to see the exhibition of ceramics by local craftsmen "Grad Svetly".
It also consists of 3 parts: ancient Slavic legends, Orthodoxy and techniques of pottery art. A wonderful exhibition, world-class exhibits, and the masters have truly "golden hands".
One Saturday evening, while relaxing on the shore, we unexpectedly found ourselves at a concert by guslar Sergei Balakin and his folk duet "Green Holm". For more than an hour, old, comic and serious songs scattered far over the still water. The performer has a wonderful instrument, great voice and appropriate appearance. He is deservedly invited to various creative meetings. In general, he is an interesting and versatile person.
Also in the village of Vladimirskoye there is a museum and tourist complex "City of Kitezh", where various folklore performances and events are held. And on Sundays, the 5D cinema opens its doors.
We regularly began to travel to Lake Svetloyar from Nizhny Novgorod and noticed the following pattern: the weather there is always better than in the capital of the Volga region. The water is clean and clear, you can drink it. Cold springs beat at the bottom of the reservoir. At a depth of 10 meters, the water temperature is only 4 degrees. But to the surface it has time to warm up to the temperature of a comfortable bathing. It is relatively small in size: 300 by 500 meters. The depth is over 30 meters.
The origin is most likely meteorite. The hills on one side were probably formed by the impact of a space body on the surface of the Earth about 10,000 years ago. From the once popular song we know that "mushrooms, berries, flowers are found in the Moscow region ..." Here, in the Nizhny Novgorod region, on Lake Svetloyar, they are not just found - they are not translated, carried or transported. There are very rich places for the gifts of the forest.
Lake Svetloyar hotels - where to stay
In the village of Vladimirskoe, the nearest locality from the purpose of our trip, there are several hotels, guest houses and rooms for rent.
First time we stayed in the hotel "Svyatogor"... One-story log building. Parking for those traveling by car.
The hotel has about 12 two-bed rooms: spacious and neat. Each room has a toilet and a washbasin. On the floor there are two shower rooms, a kitchen with everything you need. Free tea, coffee + hospitality of the hosts - what else is needed! The cost of a room with standard equipment is 1740 rubles. Economy option costs 1400 rubles per night. What is the difference - I do not know, the economy was commissioned. Check-out time is standard - 12.00. Disadvantages: vacant seats in the summer on weekends may not always be and the price would be lower. And so, just super!
Practically in the woods, hospitably opened the doors guest house "At the source".
The country complex "U Istoka" provides 1-2-3-4 bed rooms, a toilet in each room, there is everything you need for a comfortable stay. A real forest tower. New log buildings are pleasing to the eye. During the season, mushrooms can be picked directly on site. I myself found a white one there. Internet and Wi-Fi are available to guests.
Guest house "Belaya Dacha"- a fairly large private hotel.
It is located on the territory of the village of Vladimirskoye, not far from the museum. Obviously enjoys well-deserved popularity among visiting groups. Prices for accommodation per day for 1 person - 900 rubles. From September 1, there is a seasonal discount - 100 rubles. Judging by the prices, the amenities at the "White Dacha" are also all right. The owner of the hotel gave a vague answer about the availability of the Internet.
Haircut- a private estate. Located behind the hotel "Svyatogor", a little further from the road. Rooms for rent in various buildings. Facilities in the yard. You can arrange meals, ride horses - 250 rubles for 10 minutes. There is a lecture hall, a small petting zoo, and various master classes are regularly held. The cost of living is 500 rubles per day per person. The hostess with the rare name Alfina in a beautiful ornamented sundress welcomes guests.
Craft courtyard- a small fortress in miniature.
1 separate house for rent. There are plans to build a second one. There you can learn how to shoot a bow, throw a spear and much more.
Rooms in the private sector.
There are a lot of them. These are both rented rooms located above the "Anna" store and a room for two in a neat house at the very end of the village by the Lunda River, and obviously there are still not found by us. The cost of an affordable overnight stay is the same everywhere - 350 rubles per bed. Above the Anna store, we were even offered a walk-through room, which surprised us a little.
We ourselves stayed for the night before reaching the hotel "Svyatogor" from the center of the village. Summer rooms for 2-4 residents. Everything is simple, clean and tidy. The cost of living is 350 rubles per person. Shared summer kitchen, tea, raspberries, currants, sauna. The cost of the bath is 300 rubles from one lover of oak or birch brooms. The minimum number of participants in Russian is traditionally 3 people. True convenience in the yard. But for those who are not going to stay "there" - this is not so important.
The beds are not large and are designed for people up to 185 cm. Tall guests, taller than 185 cm, can comfortably settle down simply by moving the beds.
It is known from unverified sources that several thousand people gather here for the holiday of Ivan Kupala. If you plan to arrive on these days, it is imperative to book your accommodation in advance. Due to the influx of guests, it is easy to stay overnight in the open air.
Pilgrimage to Lake Svetloyar
Lake Svetloyar has long been considered sacred and endowed with special properties. Legends have brought to us about various amazing events that took place on its shores. From different places, from near and far, pilgrims came here: some for healing, some to gain peace of mind, and some asked for protection and help from higher powers. Not everyone got what they wanted, but everyone who visited here received hope, at least temporarily.
The flow of people does not stop now.
The banks of Svetloyar are visited by both individual pilgrims in private and organized groups making pilgrimage tours. The route Lake Svetloyar - Nizhny Novgorod is a destination that is gaining more and more popularity. Pilgrimage to Lake Svetloyar includes a mandatory visit to several holy places. Pilgrims arrive early in the morning, around 6:00, or even earlier. And first of all, they walk along the birch alley to the sacred water surface.
The lake itself is a major pilgrimage site. At this time, there are few people on its banks. Only the sun has risen, silence, not a breeze. The water is clear and motionless. In it, as in a mirror, all the beauty of Our Earth is reflected.
Until the end, the reasons for the formation of Lake Svetloyar are not known, the events taking place on its shores are covered with many secrets and legends, the water has "ordinary chemical composition", does not deteriorate over the years and has healing properties. This place has some kind of attractive power. People who have been here come back here again and again.
In a wooden Church of the Kazan Mother of God
there are several quite rare and interesting icons. Candles, icons and other religious items can be purchased at the church. A woman working in the church is happy to tell visitors about each relic she has kept: the history of the icon, what is depicted and "what helps". This is a professional, soulful story that inspires hope. She can tell a lot.
Most of all we liked the icon "The All-Seeing Eye of the Lord". It is also called the "Icon of all icons". A fantastic icon, especially in the twinkling twilight of burning candles. Taking pictures in the temple is prohibited. Therefore, we post only a photo of a reproduction of the icon you like. The original resembles only distantly.
The church is open every day from 12:00 to 15:00 except Monday and Tuesday. On weekends and holidays from 11:00.
To the left of the entrance to the Kazan Church there is another relic that attracts pilgrims and believers - this is stone with the imprint of the footprint of the Virgin. There is no established tradition of worship yet. Someone is praying nearby, someone is kneeling on a stone, someone is just touching it.
I witnessed how one man poured water from a holy spring into the footpath of the Mother of God, knelt down, took off a massive gold chain with a cross and lowered it into the water. He took the chain out of the water, kissed the cross, crossed himself and put it on his powerful neck.
This stone appeared not so long ago, after the completion of the restoration of the temple. Whoever visits there and wants to, he will be able to learn about him in more detail. In our travels, we have already come across the footprints of various saints.
Every Saturday at 12:00 a.m. around Lake Svetloyar procession.
From the Kazan Church located on a high bank, the rector of the Vladimir Church begins his weekly tour and carries an icon. Believers and visiting pilgrims follow him with lit candles. V certain places On the route, there are crosses, where believers pray, rest, take ablutions. For convenience, the entire path is lined with wooden flooring. It is believed that the cherished wish will certainly come true if you go around Svetloyar clockwise. It is bypassed by pilgrims and ordinary vacationers. In the old days, many believers crawled over him on their knees. It was forbidden to swim in the sacred water before.
Kibelek Key is another place for compulsory attendance... The road to the holy spring starts from the stone with the footprint of the Mother of God. The path leads through the forest, enters the field and turns to the right. There are signs along the way. At the end of the field you can see a dense forest. You go there. Part of the path through the forest is paved with wooden flooring. There are benches for rest. At the end of the path, at the fork on the left, there will be consecrated bath, straight ahead, a little further you will see the Kibelek Key.
Here you can relax, drink water and stock up on it for future use. The spring water is believed to have healing properties.
Before visiting it, it is advisable to stock up on a container for carrying and storing water.
There is a church in the village of Vladimirskoye, which also arouses strong interest among many pilgrims. There will be an opportunity - do not forget to visit.
A pilgrimage to Lake Svetloyar is a phenomenon that is taking place before our eyes. Everyone should visit this place, try to learn something new about themselves and their native land.
We have Slavs ancient history: forgotten, rewritten, distorted. We measure our life according to a calendar alien to us, from which more than 5,000 years of the life and struggle of our ancestors have been thrown away. Lake Svetloyar is our relic, an outpost of our memory, with a careful attitude towards which the revival of our native Earth will begin.
The road to revival passes here, through Lake Svetloyar and our hearts.
Now is the year 7525 according to the Old Slavic calendar. Lake Svetloyar already existed then. Now it is waiting for you.
Remember, the truth is in numbers. Good luck!
Writes (I am a female wave)
The mystery of Lake Svetloyar. Nizhny Novgorod Region
"A long time ago, even before the coming of the Tatars, on the site of Lake Svetloyar, there was the city of Kitezh. In the center of the city there were six heads of churches.
Coming to Russia and conquering many of our lands, Batu heard about the glorious Kitezh-grad and rushed to it with his hordes ...
The Tatars surrounded the city with a thundercloud and wanted to take it by force, but when they broke through to its walls, they were amazed. The inhabitants of the city not only did not build any fortifications, but did not even intend to defend themselves. Only the bell ringing of churches could be heard before the Tatars. Residents prayed for salvation, since there was nothing good to expect from the Tatars.
When the noise of the springs died down, there were only waves in the place of the city. In the distance, the lone head of the cathedral glimmered with a gleaming cross in the middle. She slowly plunged into the water. The cross soon disappeared. “And hitherto that city is invisible, it will open before the terrible judgment seat of Christ,” says the “Chronicler”.
And as soon as the Tatars rushed to the city, high-water springs suddenly clogged up from under the ground, and the Tatars retreated in fear. And the water kept running and running.
(VL Komarovich "The Kitezh legend", 1936)
Little Russian Atlantis
In the very center of Russia, the Nizhny Novgorod Territory, there is the Svetloyar Lake - a pearl of Russian nature. The dimensions of the lake are modest - half a kilometer in length, slightly more in width. And the depth is great - 39 m, the largest in the region. And the water is crystal clear and cold - it comes from a deep rift in the bottom of the lake. This lake is sometimes called a small Russian Atlantis: its history is steeped in legends. The most incredible rumors have been circulating about this lake for more than one century. How many secrets Svetloyar keeps, how many miracles take place on its shores!
Everything surprises at Svetloyar: the transparency of water, incomprehensible to scientists; its unique healing properties collected in a vessel, it does not deteriorate for several years. On the shores of the lake, there are 27 plant species not typical for this high latitude. Even a rare species of southern orchid grows. Another feature is the unusual relief of the lake. From a bird's eye view, Svetloyar looks like a round coin. The cross-section of the lake resembles the profile of a giant cabochon diamond. The bottom diverges from the center to the sides almost evenly and ends like a compass with a drawn shore.
Absolutely incredible cases miraculous healings occur at the lake every year. Orthodox pilgrims, for centuries already, have been going to this holy place to pray ... and by their prayers, sometimes miracles are performed. It is believed that this seemingly ordinary body of water has great spiritual power; it heals human ailments, removes damage and even prolongs life.
The belief is still alive that the well-being of life will return if the lake slides three times. And there were cases when believers crawled Svetloyar on their knees, trying to get at least a small part of his holiness.
According to one local resident, they managed to perform such a kneeling ceremony during the Great Patriotic War several women praying for the survival of their husbands and sons. He assures that it helped - all their men returned home safe and sound. And today, local schoolchildren and students, hoping for a good grade, go hiking around the lake on the eve of exams.
Locals say that a mere mortal is never destined to learn its secrets. You just have to believe in the Svetloyarsk miracle.
Psychics say that the lake draws energy from space and shares it with people who come here.
Scientists have tried to explain the mysteries of the lake by earthly standards, but who will believe them. They say that the lake is quite ordinary, of karst origin, and there are thousands of such lakes on earth. There are even similar lakes nearby. We can agree with these arguments, but why on those lakes, except for fishermen, you will not see anyone, but here ...
If, say, a memorial sign is installed on the lake, which we like to put in business and not in business, then the names of dozens of well-known and not so famous writers, poets, artists, composers will be carved on it. For example, Maxim Gorky, Pavel Melnikov (A. Pechersky), Mikhail Prishvin, Vladimir Korolenko, Dmitry Merezhkovsky, Zinaida Gippius.
Someone came here out of simple curiosity, but for someone the trip to Svetloyar was a milestone in life.
For example, Mikhail Prishvin wrote in his diary: “I am thinking about that Trans-Volga region, unknown to me, where I have to go in the summer. It's decided, I'm going there. Let everything there be studied, let everything be known, but I know almost nothing. And almost no one in the world knows me. I will tear off a piece of the big mysterious world and tell other people in my own way. ”
“Having got acquainted with the wonderful lake, after that I more than once came to him with a stick in my hands and a knapsack on my shoulders in order to mingle with the crowd to watch, listen and catch a live stream of folk poetry amid the colorful flicker and noise”. And these are the lines of Vladimir Galaktionovich Korolenko.
The composer Rimsky-Korsakov expressed his impressions by writing the opera The Legend of the City of Kitezh and the Maiden Fevronia.
In his book "The Brotherhood of the Grail" Latvian writer Rihards Rudzits drew a parallel between different legends of the world: the sacred country of Shambhala, the brotherhood of the Grail, the mysterious country of Belovodye and, of course, the city of Kitezh near the village of Vladimirskoye.
So what was happening on the shores of the lake that people were striving for?
Legends of deep antiquity
The main lightyarsk legend is about the invisible city of Kitezh. The legend says: there is a lake in the Vetluzhsky forests. It is located in the forest thicket. Blue waters lakes lie motionless day and night. Only occasionally a slight swell runs over them. There are days when lingering singing is heard to the quiet shores, and distant bells are heard.
The history of the emergence of the main legend of Svetloyar - about the glorious city of Kitezh - goes back to the XII-XIII centuries AD, when internecine princely wars raged in Russia and the raids of the Tatar-Mongols began. Ancient chronicles testify that the small and large towns of Kitezh on the banks of the Volga, in the area of present-day Gorodets and on Lake Svetloyar, were built by the Grand Duke Georgy Vsevolodovich, the great-grandson of Vladimir himself, Krasnoe Solnyshko.
According to legend, Batu Khan, having conquered Suzdal Rus, sent his troops to Kitezh Rus. The first battle of the prince with the army of the khan took place on the Volga. "There was a great slaughter and bloodshed," wrote the Kitezh chronicler.
It all ended with the fact that Georgy Vsevolodovich jumped on his horse and secretly decided to get over to Svetloyar. There was a chase after him, and, according to one more beautiful legend, the prince's horse stumbled in the forest, and a fountain of water suddenly gushed out from under the hoof. Khan considered this a bad sign and turned his people back with the words: "Damned land!"
The place where the horse stumbled is considered holy to this day and is called the Kybelek spring of holy water. There are three graves with crosses nearby. Some say that three heroes from the army of Prince George are buried there, others claim that they are schema monks. But, one way or another, it is customary to go around these graves three times with prayer and only after that take water from the spring, which is one and a half kilometers from Svetloyar.
The second battle, as the chronicle says, took place in Bolshoy Kitezh. The way there to the khan was indicated by Grishka Kuterma, who could not bear the torture, a man from the army of Prince George. When the enemies approached the hail, the earth opened up, covering Kitezh along with the faithful elders who prayed for his salvation. Since then, according to legend, the city of Kitezh has become invisible. Now there is a path to the lake called the Batu trail. It can lead to the glorious city of Kitezh, but not everyone, but only pure in heart and soul. But only the most enlightened people can hear the ringing of bells on Svetloyar, and in the waters of the lake they can see the reflection of temples and the lights of processions of the cross.
Two years ago, a teacher from one of the schools in Nizhny Novgorod, came with her class to Svetloyar on an excursion. In memory of the trip, the woman took several photographs. When the photographs were printed, one of them showed a ghostly image of a church dome without a cross.
The obvious is the incredible
In Soviet times, they tried to artificially consign the legend of the city of Kitezh to oblivion. Not a single history textbook contained a legend about Lake Svetloyar; a pioneer camp was built here, where cars and trucks could freely pass. But no bans could keep people from visiting the lake. During the Great Patriotic War, old people made pilgrimages around Svetloyar, praying for their fellow countrymen who had gone to the front.
Russian and foreign scientists more than once went under the water of Svetloyar, drilled the land near the coast in search of traces of the city of Kitezh. But these attempts were unsuccessful. Moreover, some meticulous people were in serious trouble.
About 20 years ago, a visiting hydrobiologist wanted to investigate Svetloyar. After several dives in the water, his temperature rose sharply. The man turned to doctors, but they could not even make a diagnosis: an unknown disease developed without any objective reasons. And only when the hydrobiologist left these places, the disease receded by itself.
Once a resident of Nizhny Novgorod came to pick mushrooms in the vicinity of Svetloyar. He did not return home either that day or the next. Relatives sounded the alarm. Search and rescue operations did not yield any results. The man was put on the wanted list. And a week later he returned home safe and sound. He answered all questions evasively: they say, he got lost, wandered through the forest. Then he generally said that he had a blackout. Only later did he confess to his friend, who made him drunk on purpose, that he was in the invisible city of Kitezh, where he was met by the miraculous elders. “How can you prove it?” Asked a friend. And then the mushroom picker took out a piece of bread, which he was treated to in Kitezh. However, in an instant, the bread turned to stone.
They also say that in one of the museums, before the coup of 1917, a letter was allegedly kept in the Old Slavonic language, which was addressed from son to father. Its content boiled down to the following: the young man ended up in Kitezh thanks to some miracle and asks his parents not to bury him ahead of time.
What are the divers hiding?
In the recent past, divers dived to the bottom of Svetloyar. The most interesting thing is that they do not tell anyone about the results of their research. According to rumors, they never found the bottom and were very frightened by this circumstance. The reservoir cannot be bottomless! There is a belief that the secrets of the lake are guarded by a miracle fish, a kind of Loch Ness monster, only in the Russian way.
Convinced materialists, in opposition to believers, say that maximum depth Svetloyara is 30 meters. Its origin is karst. There is another version as well. Its supporters claim that the lake was formed due to the fall of a meteorite. An indirect confirmation of this theory can be the correct shape of the bowl of the reservoir (circle), great depth and the presence of stones in the vicinity. By the way, about the stones. On one of them, again according to legend, the Mother of God left her mark. The footprint is quite clear and deep, but it matches the size of a child's foot. A church was recently built next to this holy stone, where visiting parishioners go to pray.
An even more fantastic legend about Lake Svetloyar is told locals... They say that the lake has an underground bottom and connects with the waters of Lake Baikal. Again, no confirmation of this was found. However, these popular beliefs were not refuted. And, as you know, just like that, out of nowhere, legends do not arise. And people have faith, and this is the most important thing.
By the way, ufologists from Moscow, who recently worked here, clearly recorded with their devices that the area of Lake Svetloyar - anomalous zone... In their opinion, there is a certain energy pillar here, invisible to ordinary vision. It is also often called the subtle plane, the fourth dimension. And only believers, enlightened people can see him.
Recently, the Kerzhensky Reserve, on the territory of which Lake Svetloyar is located, hiding, according to legend, “ invisible hail Kitezh ", included in the UNESCO World Heritage Register
