Buddhist monastery in the mountains. Kachkanar mountain and shad tchup ling monastery. We go to the southern peak

The path to the monastery is described in detail on its website and VKontakte group (links at the end of the post). In short, from the city you need to get to the checkpoint of the Western quarry. From there it is 8 kilometers uphill, the climb is about 550m. The road is wide, rocky, up to the main landmark - a tree with ribbons. From there, a steeper ascent along a slushy path begins. But how beautiful this path is! Just a fairy tale! Mixed forest, stones overgrown with moss and lingonberries, air, as they say, even eat with a spoon!
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04) A couple of meters away from the path in a few seconds I scored a handful of delicious lingonberries

I got to the monastery at 21 o'clock, at sunset.
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I was warmly greeted, offered to wash in a bathhouse, treated to tea and homemade cake.
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The main room where the inhabitants of the monastery spend their time is the dining room, where they eat, receive guests, and sleep.
I really liked the calm atmosphere that reigned in the monastery: everyone is sitting on the floor, drinking tea, someone is reading, someone is just sitting, everyone is talking little and quietly.
When the lights out came on schedule, we cleared the tables, laid out the sleeping bags and went to bed. I spent the whole next day at the monastery.

Reference:
Buddhist monastery Shad Tchup Ling (Tib. "Place of Practice and Realization") was founded by Mikhail Vasilyevich Sannikov, born in 1961. After serving in Afghanistan, he studied at the Buddhist Institute at (Buryatia), practiced at datsans in Mongolia and Tuva. Then he received initiation into a lama and on May 15, 1995 arrived on Mount Kachkanar to start building a monastery, the exact location of which was indicated to him by his teacher Pema Jang (Darma Dodi Zhalsaraev, 1904-1997). For the first two years, Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit erected the walls of the monastery alone: ​​for this he burned fires between the rocks, with a crowbar and a sledgehammer he broke stones and clay - the main building material. Over time, volunteers began to join the construction, and now there are several permanent residents in the monastery, there are already quite a few buildings on the territory, there is water (from the reservoirs located above), electricity (generator + solar panels) and gas. But there is still a lot of work - after all, the construction plan is designed for 300 years.
Many tourists come to the monastery - some just to take a look, and some - to take part in the construction.
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In the morning I got up at 7, for breakfast there was buckwheat with vegetables. Before a meal, prayer, then each of his plate transfers a little to an iron bowl, passed in a circle. At first I thought it was some kind of religious ritual, but it turned out that everyone throws off like that to feed the small affectionate cat that lives here, which constantly climbs on you and hums as soon as it sees that you are sitting down or lying down. Also, several dogs of the same breed live in a separate enclosure.
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After breakfast, Lama Dokshit assigned duties for the day's work. At first we carried sandbags in the company of Batista the dog. Then Dima and I, who has been living here for more than 5 years, laid a roof on the roof of the enclosure, where the dog Nastya was fussing right below us and her puppies squeaked. The weather was constantly changing: when it was raining or hailting, we took a break for tea.
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After lunch, I hiked higher up the mountain to look at the rocks.
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21) The same camel

After that, I must admit, I disdained the mountains below 1500m. But in the Urals, I realized that the height does not matter at all. Stunning views, huge rocks dotted with millennial wrinkles, dense vegetation ... Here I fell head over heels in love with the Ural Mountains.
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Unfortunately, I didn’t manage to enjoy my loneliness. in the afternoon a loud-voiced shkolota climbed the mountain.
In the evening we poked at the rocks and then putty the Parinirvana Stupa. Before dinner we went to the bathhouse, where we steamed ourselves well with a fir broom.
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29) View from the bath

In the morning, after breakfast, Lama Dokshit gave me a lift to Kachkanar on an ATV.

In general, this can be called a monastery for the time being conditionally - the bulk of the inhabitants are practicing laymen, not monks. Nevertheless, a very pleasant place, I rested my soul. If possible, I will definitely come here for a longer period.

Here are some links

And here again the restless head and walking legs again carried me through the lands of the Fatherland. My daughter, eighteen years old, and my friend Denis, volunteered to go with me. Our path this time was already a little further than usual - although it is rich Perm Territory to the sights, but they also come to an end sometime. No, of course, you can watch a lot of other things, but here priorities and Wishlist come into play. And they gravitate more and more to large spaces and mountains. In a word - to the scale.

This time was picked to the side Sverdlovsk region : almost on the border with Perm Territory there is Kachkanar city... He is glorious Kachkanar mining and processing plant (holding "Evraz"), which in its vicinity is mining titanomagnetite ore.

View of the monastery from the height of the northern peak of the mountain

What can be seen in Kachkanar
and on the way to it?

Most of the attractions are concentrated in the area of ​​the same name the mountains: the mountain itself with its rocks at the top, a mountain lake at the place where the stone was mined, Buddhist monastery and stele to Gagarin... At the foot of the mountain, on the way to the top, located Western quarry of Kachkanarsky GOK... Also if you go to the side Perm Territory , then 40 kilometers from Kachkanara you can visit mountain.

But more on everything below. Since there was a lot of photographic material, then, with all my desire, I could not shove in something unproductive and without loss show all these objects in one report. Therefore, there will be three parts - one about the monastery, and the second about other sights. Kachkanara, well, and the third is about Mount Caps.

How to get there?

Get to Kachkanara not difficult - Kachkanar located 280 km from Perm and 260 from Yekaterinburg... Didn't check the road from Ekata but from Perm the road is quite, albeit very winding.

GPS coordinates

58.77678, 59.38694

Shad Tchup Ling monastery on the map

How to climb to the top?

We have chosen a longer route - from Western quarry... The reason for this is simple - only walking this path can you see yourself Western quarry.

To get to the starting point of this route, you need to drive through the city, turn in the direction Western Career, cross the dam and soon you will see the company's checkpoint Evraz... Feel free to leave the car there, turn into the undergrowth on the left and go around the checkpoint. After that, you can safely go out on the road again and continue the journey without shuddering anyone. The road is flat and carefully smoothed by graders. After about 2.5 kilometers you will reach a fork - on the right there will be an observation deck with views of the quarry, and the road to the monastery turns to the left. On this road, you need to go for about 4 km more without turning anywhere until the fork with a tree decorated with ribbons. There will be a road to the right to the monastery, and straight ahead - to mountain lake and rock camel.

For those who do not want to trample on white feet, I can offer a life hack how to shorten the walking distance by 6-7 kilometers. Find out at the reception of KGOK the phone number of the pass bureau, contact him and get the necessary passes for the tourist purpose of the visit. I didn’t check it myself (since there was a day off the day before), but according to reports the method works. On a four-wheel drive vehicle with normal ground clearance, you can reach the fork with the "ribbon" tree - in some places, closer to the top, there is still snow on the road.

Buddhist community Shad Tchup Ling

Story Shad Tchup Ling(in Tibetan pronunciation "Sheddubling", Tib. bshad sgrub gling; "Place of study and implementation") is directly related to the personality of his lama - Sanye Tenzin Dokshit (Mikhail Sannikov) who at the direction of his teacher Pem Dzhanga (Darma Dodi Zhalsaraeva) in mid-May 1995 arrived at Mount Kachkanar and laid the first stone of the monastery there.

For 22 years of existence on the harsh stones of the mountain, the monastery (a small reservation regarding this below) under the leadership Llama Dokshit gradually built up. Its current state is far from admirable - it is striking that despite the heroic efforts of the followers, the lack of resources affects literally everything and the construction is moving very slowly. However, over the past year, the monks have erected a number of important objects, including a large statue of buddha... As far as I understand, in order for the community to have the right to be called a monastery, it must build 8 stupas - half have already been created, and the rest of the monks intend to finish in 2017.

To support the community good form when visiting her, there will be building materials or food... To find out the most relevant things, it is better to call the community phone number in advance and ask the guest on duty for information. Nobody obliges to anything, but just keep in mind that you are just a curious guest within these walls. We took with us a drill for a hammer drill and sweets for tea.

In addition to tourists, the community is also hospitable to pilgrims, detailed information you can get it .

In my opinion, the most beautiful monastery looks like in winter, when the wind and frost covers everything in a thick layer of frost. However, in order to see all this splendor, you will have to work hard - the miles-long way uphill on skis is thorny.

Why go so far and climb so high?

To get to the monastery you need to go through the main gate.

The doors of the gate have colorful painting. Winds, humidity and cold are pretty merciless even for modern acrylic paints.

Video

A small video from the series "I’m doing it” - don’t pay attention to my scratched face - I was in such a hurry to get ready the day before that I drove headlong into the box while loading the shmurdyak.

What to see nearby?

Stay on line - there are two more promised notes ahead: about herself and Mount Caps.

I first learned about this place only a year and a half ago. And I immediately caught fire with the idea to climb to this Buddhist monastery located in Russia, in the Urals, at the junction of Europe and Asia.

And so, last weekend, my dream came true - I climbed to the top of Mount Kachkanar.

The site for the construction of the Buddhist monastery was not chosen by chance. This is not an easy place. There is a special energy in it.

Even the ancient Mansi revered Mount Kachkanar as a special cult place. Ritual ceremonies with sacrifices to pagan gods were held here.

There is a belief that in one of the caves, which was located exactly on the side from which we came, that is, from the village of Kosya, a great ritual took place during the period of Yermak's campaign to Siberia. The ruler of the Siberian Khanate, Chingizid Kuchum, not wanting to obey, but feeling the strength of the enemy, ordered a great ritual in order to get an answer from the shamans to their questions. The shamans agreed that resistance to Yermak's army was useless, one should submit. However, Khan Kuchum did not give a damn about the shamanic warning. Yermak's squad defeated the Khan's army. Kuchum himself then fled. And this cave-temple has not yet been found, the entrance to the cave was blocked up. There is also a cautionary belief - no need to search for a sanctuary. If it is found and the blockage is broken up, then a catastrophe of a large scale will occur, disastrous for thousands of people.

So, we are already close to the top. The height of Kachkanar is 887.6 meters, it is one of the highest peaks of the Middle Urals. At the top of the mountain, nature has created amazing stone outliers. It is here that the famous mountain-stone "Camel" is located - this huge stone giant seemed to lie down to rest. According to one version, the name of the Kachkanar mountain is of Turkic origin. And the word consists of two: "pitching" - bald, "nar" - camel.

The rules of conduct on the territory of the monastery are simple and straightforward.

The creation of the monastery refers us to the events of 20 years ago. Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit (Mikhail Sannikov) in 1995. finishes his studies at the Buddhist Institute at the Ivolginsky Datsan in Buryatia. After that, he arrives at Mount Kachkanar, where he lays on May 15, 1995. the first stone of the monastery. Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit has never been to these mountains. The way was shown to him by his Teacher Pema Jang (Darma Dodi Zhalsarave, 1904-1997). He told him not only the coordinates of the place for the construction of the future monastery - Mount Kachkanar, but also the name. Shad Tchup Ling is translated from Tibetan as “Place of Practice and Realization”.

Today, the monastery has brought together Buddhist practitioners from different cities Russia. The main task set in Shad Tchup Ling is the development of the scholarly, yogic and monastic traditions of Buddhism in the Russian cultural space. The organization of training and practice is implemented through specially developed learning programs, conducting rituals, services, traditional events, individual and collective Buddhist practices.

The monks greeted us in the community hospitably. They fed me with porridge and made me drink hot tea.

Duty in the kitchen and other duties in the monastery according to the schedule. On the day we were there, Arseny was cooking.

Life in the community is proceeding in a measured way, according to the schedule.

The monks eat according to the following compiled menu, minor changes are possible.

Someone from our group called this lifestyle and dietary diversity quite austere. Alexey, who communicated with us, perhaps more than anyone else, corrected that he does not see anything ascetic here. Nun Satima, who had lived here for almost 12 years, also grinned and continued her knitting with a smile. No, perhaps this way of life does not limit, but rather brings a person closer to freedom, helps to advance on the path to self-improvement. And, in general, everyone makes their choice in this life.

Alexey, who worked as a teacher in the world in English, practices Buddhism here. He has been living in the monastery for more than five months and is going to leave the monastery no earlier than July-August. He gave us a fascinating excursion.

Alexey told us about the history of the monastery, introduced us to all the buildings, showed us the main shrines of the monastery - the Buddhist Stupa of Awakening, the statue of Milarepa, etc.

Of the animals, only dogs currently live in the monastery. One of the dogs left by a Frenchman who visited the monastery recently had cute puppies.

Procurement of firewood (in winter), construction work (in summer) are the main labor occupations in the monastery.

Solar panels are a special pride of the inhabitants of the monastery. With economical use of energy, there is enough energy for charging batteries and even for accessing the Internet.

From the top of Kachkanar you can see the Konzhakovsky stone, the Oslyanka mountain, and other peaks of the Urals.

We did not get to the monastery on the bath day, according to the schedule. But they looked into the bathhouse.

After the excursion, we returned again to the warm house, where the dining room is located.

I was stuck at the bookshelf, surprised by the variety of books. In the monastery library there are books not only about Buddhism, yoga, but also fiction, as well as books on the theory of relativity, an explanatory dictionary of the Russian language, textbooks in English ...

Curious and looked into the logbook. He was then driven by hand. Apparently, the very first years of the construction of the monastery.
Now you can read Sami Onboard Journal of the Buddhist Community Shad Tchup Ling, where, in short, according to tradition, every day is recorded the weather and the main activities and events from the life of the community.

Satima's favorite pastime is knitting. It seems to me that all these pretty hats and socks are tied by her hands. But I may be wrong.

Alexei demonstrates hats.

Visitors to the monastery can buy some warm knitted items from the memory. Or choose a mandala made by the hands of monks. They are offered here in all kinds of colors and configurations. The main thing when choosing to understand that both the color and the symbols, and the drawing of the mandala reveal direct and indirect connections with your own universe. Listen. And the universe will not deceive you.

We communicate. We are getting warm. Drinking tea.

Alexey talks about the plan for the construction of the monastery. According to the forecast, it is designed for 300 years. Now only 20 have passed. The scale of construction is amazing. The idea that some rocks have to be destroyed. Is it really impossible to integrate all buildings into stone rocks, as it is done now? Maybe I misunderstood something ...

And here is Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit (in the world Mikhail Vasilyevich Sannikov). He was born on November 30, 1961 in the city of Votkinsk, Udmurt Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic, in a family of hereditary military men. He fought in Afghanistan. In 1987, with the rank of captain, he retired on a disability pension; for several months he worked in the morgue of the Leninsky district of Perm as an orderly and assistant pathologist. He studied externally at the Nizhny Tagil Art School, worked a little as a cook at Kamsky river fleet... In 1989. Mikhail Sannikov entered the Ivolginsky Datsan, where he took monastic vows under the name Tenzin Dokshit. In December 1994 he was ordained a lama. And since 1995. he founds a Buddhist monastery at Kachkanar.

We had little contact with Tenzin Dokshit. He spoke with a kind grin, short and clear, simple and wise at the same time. This is probably how the Teachers communicate.

It's time for us to go down the mountain.
This trip took place almost a week ago, and the impressions will not be digested soon. Someone from our group came with a fair amount of skepticism in store. He left with him. Someone expected to see a ray of light, something kind, real, without gloss and glamor, at the same time. He saw him. I include myself among them. I liked the atmosphere in the monastery, the simplicity of communication between people, the schedule of their classes, the desire to practice Buddhism, for which they came here. I myself am far from practicing Buddhism and meditation (I don’t take into account a couple of books I have read), but two years ago the practice of phowa gave me a lot when I was lucky enough to attend the meditations of Lama Ole Nydahl. This is a separate conversation. The purpose of this post was not to go into the details of Buddhism. I wanted to describe the Buddhist monastery Shad-Tchup-Ling in Kachkanar, as I saw it and my impressions, at least on a subconscious level. This attempt, perhaps, was not entirely successful. Just to understand everyone for himself - you have to go there. And not a couple of hours. You need to live, work, practice Buddhism in a monastery.

Finally, as we left, we played the prayer drums ...

I think I will return to this monastery. And I would like not to be an idle tourist. I don't know when yet, but I'll be back.

Om mani padme hum, om mani padme hum, om mani padme hum ...

P.S. The trip to the Buddhist monastery Shad-Tchup-Ling took place together with a group of children from Perm, the organizers of the trip were

(Tib. "Place of Practice and Realization") was founded on May 15, 1995. This amazing place, in which you understand your atomic involvement in the creation of the Universe. Shad Tchup Ling is the place where the Sun is born!

Today I will tell you about my May Day trip to Mount Kachkanar, to visit the inhabitants of Shad Tchup Ling, and I will touch upon the theme of creation and the amazing calmness of people who have changed their way of life for life.

My trip to Mount Kachkanar to the Shad Tchup Ling Monastery took place in early spring - May 6, 2016. I started the ascent from the barrier of the Western quarry, because the passage through Kosyu in spring is difficult to pass. There is a lot of melting snow.

For those who have decided to visit the community, my advice to you is: call them and ask what to bring. This is not a necessary action, of course, but as part of hospitality, they are always happy to receive useful gifts from guests. This time I brought them cereals, bread and vegetable oil. The community phone number is the same: +7 965 529 2708.

The ascent to Kachkanar through the Western quarry is like a long walk, the total distance from the gate to the monastery is about 8.5 km. The entire climb goes along a dirt road, so wear shoes with thick soles, otherwise your feet will be very sore by the middle of the path.

It is very easy to get to the Western quarry checkpoint - you enter Kachkanar, drive to Krylova Street and go straight along it all the time until you run into a barrier. Here you leave the car and through the forest to the left of the checkpoint go around the checkpoint, because the guard only lets through the barrier with passes. Further, the path goes along a dirt road, all turns - to the left. After about 1.5 km there will be a big left turn. On it, if you go straight, you can go to observation deck with which it opens interesting view to the Western quarry. If you chose the route correctly and turned left all the time, then you will reach a tree with ribbons and a sign indicating the route: Camel Mountain - straight ahead, the monastery to the right.

The road from the signpost to the community itself runs through a very picturesque forest. I was much more fortunate - my route passed through the spring forest, which revealed its natural artistic potential in all colors.

The foothills of the Buddhist community in a fairytale silhouette appear in the rays of the spring sun, like a fairytale impregnable castle that you must conquer. Only not with weapons, but stopping the internal dialogue.

The ascent along the curb to the monastery is, in my opinion, the most picturesque element of the entire route. Stepping carefully, from stone to stone, you rise closer and closer. Closer to yourself and your questions.

The entire territory of the monastery is under active construction, the community is always open to help and is waiting for volunteers. The demolition of Shad Tchup Ling was temporarily stopped: the Kachkanarsky GOK froze the development of the field until 2028, and the monastery, in turn, will receive the status of a landmark. Therefore, I think this unique monument of a different faith will forever remain on the Ural land!