Mount Kachkanar: Shad Tchup Ling Monastery. From Beslan to Buddhism: Who Builds a Monastery in the Urals Mountains The only Buddhist Monastery in the Urals

Mount Kachkanar located near the city of the same name in Sverdlovsk region, about 260 kilometers from Yekaterinburg.

Kachkanar is one of the most high mountains Middle Urals, reaching a height of 887.6 meters above sea level. Folded rocks gabbro, peridotite and pyroxenite.

Toponymists believe that the name of the mountain comes from the Turkic words "kachka" - bald and "nar" - camel.

Near the mountain is the border of two parts of the world - Europe and Asia, as well as two regions - the Sverdlovsk region and Perm Territory... Gold and platinum mines were located near the mountain.

The first scientific description of Mount Kachkanar was made by a traveler in the Urals in 1770 academician P.S. Pallas in the book "Travel to different provinces of the Russian Empire" (1786). The Voguls showed Pallas two mines where magnetic iron ore was previously mined.

In the 1860s, the Kachkanar massif studied the famous geologist A.P. Karpinsky, later headed the Academy of Sciences.

In 1957, construction began at the foot of the mountain Kachkanar mining and processing plant, soon one of the youngest cities of the Sverdlovsk region grew up here - Kachkanar city.

At present, the development of titanomagnetite ores of Mount Kachkanar continues, the existing huge open pits are expanding, new ones are planned.

Mount Kachkanar has two peaks - northern and southern. They are called "North Horn" and "Midday Horn" respectively. Each of them is beautiful in its own way, each offers a magnificent view (while the city of Kachkanar is visible only from south peak).

There are many rocky outcrops on the top of the mountain bizarre shape... Many of them have their own names. The most famous outlier is camel rock.

In 1995, on the top of the Kachkanar mountain was created Buddhist monastery"Shad Tchup Ling"(translated from Tibetan - Place of Practice and Realization). Its founder is Mikhail Sannikov. The monastery has long turned into the main attraction of Kachkanar. Many tourists come to visit the only Buddhist monastery in the Urals, the inhabitants of the monastery do not refuse anyone. There are two stupas built in the monastery, which are considered shrines.

However, very soon the monastery, built over the years by the hands of several enthusiasts, may be wiped off the face of the earth. EVRAZ, which owns the Vanadium Kachkanarsky GOK, demands to demolish the “unauthorized buildings”. On the side of the enterprise and the authorities of all levels.

So instead of a monastery on this scenic location by 2015 another quarry should be formed ... At the same time, destroying the only local attractions (a mountain and a monastery), the Kachkanar authorities are talking about grandiose plans for the development of tourism.

In general, have time to visit Mount Kachkanar and the only Buddhist monastery in the Urals, before it's too late! ..

How to get to Mount Kachkanar

1. Exit to the foot of the Kachkanar mountain

From the administrative square of Kachkanar (see photo), to Krylova street (to the north) towards the bus station (200 m).

Administration building of the city of Kachkanar

Further along Krylov to the fork of the Western quarry - the village of Valerianovsk. We are heading towards the Western quarry. We pass the peninsula with a dispensary " Cape Verde"(on the left) and go to the dam. On the right Railway, on the left is a bay with a tower rising out of the water. We pass the dam and on the left we see a parking lot. At this point, we consider the first stage passed.

2. We go to the southern peak

The southern peak of Mount Kachkanar (yes, the mountain has two high points, and the highest, northern, is not visible from the city), although it is not the highest point, it should be visited. The way there is not so trodden by tourists as to the northern peak. The view of the city of Kachkanar is possible only from the southern height. The rocks of the summit are located compactly. The path is about 6 kilometers with a constant uphill climb. The slope is small, so it is overcome in one passage.

If you are in a car, you will have to leave it on the site. On the left we find a path along the coast and move along it. You must walk to the old ski slope (600 m). You can walk along the coast, but it is better to take it uphill, so that later you can crawl less up the clearing. The ascent is steep. Climbing to the very top, we go along the road to the left.

View from the old ski slope

After 100 meters we go out onto the road and go to the right, after 100 meters we turn left. We go along the forest road without turning anywhere. Unimportant at first, the road gradually widens and gets better. After about 3.5 kilometers, you must not miss the path to the top. The road at this point goes to the right, and the path goes straight. The beginning of the path (C 58g 44m 58s; B 59g 24m 52s) is usually marked with ribbons on the trees. We go to the path and in about 15-20 minutes we go out to the rock massifs. It is better to remember or mark the exit of the path, so that when you go back you do not wander around the surroundings.

The cliffs of the southern summit used to have name plates. Now only holes in the stone remain of the slabs.

Views from the southern summit

3. We go to the mountain lake

Before the northern summit, on the mountain there is Lake... Apparently, they took ore samples and dug a pit, which was subsequently filled with water. Near the lake you can stop for a halt or overnight. There is a barbecue, a gazebo.

Lake on the site of a former mine

There is a road to the lake itself, but you can drive by car only with passes, since the road passes through the territory of the Kachkanarsky GOK.

From the site (see item 1) we move further along the road. In about 2 kilometers there will be a guard post of the Kachkanar GOK. If you are in a car, then feel free to leave the car in front of the post. Then we go on foot. We reach the buildings and follow the road to the left. After 300 meters, on the left, there will be a checkpoint on ski slope(see photo), but we go straight with a slight deviation to the right.

Checkpoint to the ski slope

Almost immediately there will be a wide road to the right, but we do not need to go there, we go straight up the hill with a slight slope. After turning left, the road will bend Western quarry... There will be many paths to the right. Along them you can go to the edge of the pit and watch the work of the quarry.

Western quarry

I must say right away that the Western quarry has observation deck which will be on our way. So we reached the turn of the road to the left (about 1 kilometer to it), we went there. But, if you go a little straight, on the right there will be an observation deck of the Western quarry at the highest point.

Observation deck of the Western quarry

But back to the road. The distance from the observation deck to the lake is approximately 4 kilometers.

Road

A little before reaching the lake, the path to the Buddhist monastery starts.

The beginning of the path to the Buddhist monastery

4. We go from the mountain lake to the Camel rock and to the top of the Kachkanar mountain

To climb the mountain, you need to go around the lake (preferably on the left), go along the path to the clearing and start climbing. After about 700-800 meters, rock outcrops will begin and a platform with a gazebo will appear. From the platform you need to turn onto the left path. I'll make a reservation right away that if you go to the right, the path will lead you straight to a Buddhist monastery. But we are going to the "Camel", and I will tell you about the monastery further. Passing through the rock rubble rock "Camel" appears in all its glory.

Rock "Camel"

After looking at the panorama and climbing the rock, we go further to the top, which is already visible from the "Camel".

View from "Camel"

The path to the top starts right behind the Camel. After 10-15 minutes, we come to the top of the Kachkanar mountain from which a panorama to the north opens. The most high point marked with a concrete structure with a pipe. The village of Kosya is located directly under the mountain, a little further on Pokap, in the northeast you can see the buildings of the monastery.

Top of Mount Kachkanar

View from the top to the villages of Kosya and Pokap

View of the buildings of the monastery from the top of Mount Kachkanar

Rock of Gagarin

5. We go from the mountain lake to the Shad Tchup Ling monastery

As I already mentioned, you can go to the Shad Tchup Ling Monastery through the road leading to the top. But one must understand that the monastery is not just a tourist attraction and it is not welcome to just come and take a look. If you want to be paid attention to and given an excursion, as well as treated to local tea, then such an event is better planned. It is not customary to come to the monastery empty-handed. Food is welcome: sugar, tea, cookies, cereals, etc. Also, near the beginning of the path to the monastery, there are building materials and if you take bricks, boards or whatever else is there, it will be good.

So, the beginning of the path to the Shad Tchup Ling monastery is not far from the lake on the way from Kachkanar. There is no way to miss this place. One can see heaps of building materials, old cars, a sign with a reminder “To a friend. You go to the monastery, take bricks, do not allow empty runs ", as well as a sign for tourists indicating that it is not at all necessary to go to the" Camel "through the monastery.

After about a kilometer, a large clearing with a cable car will appear, along which building materials are dragged to the monastery.

Glade with a cable car

"Notice board" of the monastery

The monastery has two stupas, living quarters, a bathhouse, a guest house, a subsidiary farm. Constant construction is underway.

M.V. Malakhov wrote about Kachkanar in the 19th century:

"I climbed Kachkanar from the east, from where access is considered less convenient than from the west. Passing Mount Elovaya, which is the eastern spur of Kachkanar and covered with rock debris very similar to Kachkanar in its general character and content of magnetic iron ore, we began to climb Kachkanar The entire rise is covered with boulders; the bulk of them consists of augite grains with streaks of magnetic iron ore. The first significant occurrence of it we observed on a large terrace of the Isov slope of the mountain in a typical coarse-grained augite rock. During the entire ascent to the northern summit from this occurrence, magnetic iron ore was encountered at every step, but only in small veins, as well as at the northernmost summit. both peaks. Further, the signs of magnetic iron ore disappear and cut ko reappear in a vast placer of magnetic iron ore located at the foot of the Kachkanar. "

A trip to Kachkanar can be combined with a visit to Mount Kolpaki.

Monastery on Mount Kachkanar

Welcome to Mount Kachkanar!

© Alexander PETROV (description of the route, photo),
Kachkanar, 2011
© Pavel Raspopov (description of the place)
site

Coordinates: 58 ° 46'37 ″ s. NS. 59 ° 23′13 ″ in. etc. /  58.77694 ° N NS. 59.38694 ° E etc./ 58.77694; 59.38694(G) (I)

History

Foundation of the monastery

Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit, aka Mikhail Sannikov, got acquainted with Buddhism in the late 1980s in Afghanistan, where he, a career officer, commander of a special unit, saw the monuments of Buddhist civilization that flourished there before the arrival of Muslims on the mountain passes. After the end of the Afghan war, Sannikov retired from the army, went to Buryatia, to the Ivolginsky datsan, becoming a student of Darma-Dodi Zhalsaraev.

On May 15, 1995, Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit began construction of a Buddhist monastery on Mount Kachkanar. A place for her was shown to him by his teacher.

For 20 years, Shad Tchup Ling has become one of the largest centers for the study of Buddhism in Russia and just a tourist attraction that attracts thousands of tourists.

Territory trial

Members of the community have tried many times to legalize the buildings, but the rights to the land were claimed by the mining and processing plant, whose quarries are located nearby, and the forestry department.

February 9 on the website of the Office Federal Service bailiffs in the Sverdlovsk region have received information about the upcoming demolition of the "Buddhist monastery" on Mount Kachkanar. The work of life and the fruits of the incredible perseverance of Mikhail Sannikov and hundreds of people who helped him during these years may go to dust, and “Buddhist stupas fascinating imagination among Ural mountains"- to disappear.

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Excerpt from Shad Tchup Ling

- The Karagins, Julie and Boris are with them. Now you can see the bride and groom. - Drubetskoy made an offer!
“How did I find out today,” said Shinshin, who was entering the Rostovs' box.
Natasha looked in the direction in which her father was looking, and saw Julie, who with pearls on her thick red neck (Natasha knew, sprinkled with powder) was sitting with a happy look, next to her mother.
Behind them with a smile, with an ear bent over Julie's mouth, could be seen the smoothly combed, beautiful head of Boris. He looked at the Rostovs from under his brows and said something to his bride with a smile.
"They talk about us, about me with him!" thought Natasha. “And he surely soothes his fiance's jealousy of me: they needlessly worry! If only they knew how I don't care about any of them. "
Behind was sitting in a green current, with a devoted to the will of God and a happy, festive face, Anna Mikhailovna. In their box there was that atmosphere - the groom and the bride, whom Natasha knew and loved so much. She turned away and suddenly everything that was humiliating in her morning visit came to her mind.
“What right does he have not to want to accept me into his kinship? Ah, it's better not to think about it, not to think about it before his arrival! " she said to herself and began to look around the familiar and unfamiliar faces in the stalls. In front of the parterre, in the very middle, with his back to the ramp, stood Dolokhov with a huge, combed up shock of curly hair, in a Persian suit. He stood in the very sight of the theater, knowing that he attracted the attention of the entire hall, as freely as if he were standing in his room. The most brilliant youth of Moscow stood around him, and he apparently took the lead among them.
Count Ilya Andreevich, laughing, pushed the blushing Sonya, pointing to her former adorer.
- Did you find out? - he asked. - And where did he come from, - the count turned to Shinshin, - he disappeared somewhere?
- Lost, - answered Shinshin. - I was in the Caucasus, and there I fled, and, they say, some sovereign prince was a minister in Persia, he killed Shakhov's brother there: well, all the Moscow ladies are going crazy! Dolochoff le Persan, [Persianin Dolokhov,] and it's over. We now have no word without Dolokhov: they swear to him, they call him like a sterlet, - said Shinshin. - Dolokhov, yes Kuragin Anatol - all our ladies were driven crazy.
A tall, beautiful lady with a huge braid and very bare, white, full shoulders and a neck on which there was a double string of large pearls entered the neighboring benoir, and sat down for a long time, rustling with her thick silk dress.
Natasha involuntarily looked into this neck, shoulders, pearls, hairdo and admired the beauty of the shoulders and pearls. While Natasha was peering at her for the second time, the lady looked round and, meeting her eyes with Count Ilya Andreich, nodded her head and smiled. It was Countess Bezukhova, Pierre's wife. Ilya Andreevich, who knew everyone in the world, bent over and spoke to her.
“Have you come long ago, Countess?” He said. - I’ll come, I’ll come, kiss the handle. But I came here on business and brought my girls with me. They say that Semyonova plays incomparably, - said Ilya Andreevich. - Count Pyotr Kirillovich never forgot us. He's here?
“Yes, he wanted to come in,” Helene said and looked attentively at Natasha.
Count Ilya Andreevich again sat down in his place.
- Isn't it good? He said to Natasha in a whisper.
- Miracle! - said Natasha, - you can fall in love! At this time, the last chords of the overture sounded and the bandmaster's wand rattled. In the stalls, belated men marched into their seats and the curtain went up.
As soon as the curtain rose, everything fell silent in the boxes and the stalls, and all the men, old and young, in uniforms and tailcoats, all women in jewels on their naked bodies, with eager curiosity turned their attention to the stage. Natasha also began to watch.

On the stage there were even boards in the middle, on the sides there were painted paintings depicting trees, behind there was a canvas stretched on the boards. In the middle of the stage sat girls in red bodices and white skirts. One, very fat, in a white silk dress, sat apart on a low bench, to which a green cardboard was glued behind. They all sang something. When they finished their song, the girl in white approached the prompter's booth, and a man in silk, tight-fitting trousers with thick legs, with a feather and a dagger approached her and began to sing and spread his arms.
A man in covered pantaloons sang one, then she sang. Then both fell silent, music began to play, and the man began to touch the hand of the girl in the white dress with his fingers, obviously waiting for the beat again to begin his part with her. They sang together, and everyone in the theater began to clap and shout, and the man and woman on the stage, who portrayed lovers, began to bow, smiling and spreading their arms.


Mount Kachkanar is one of the highest peaks of the Urals - 887.6 m. It houses the only Buddhist monastery in the Urals, Shad Tchup Ling. There are also some pretty rocks there, the most famous of which is “Camel”.

The path to the monastery is described in detail on its website and VKontakte group (links at the end of the post). In short, from the city you need to get to the checkpoint of the Western quarry. From there it is 8 kilometers uphill, the climb is about 550m. The road is wide, rocky, up to the main landmark - a tree with ribbons. From there, a steeper ascent along a slushy path begins. But how beautiful this path is! Just a fairy tale! Mixed forest, stones overgrown with moss and lingonberries, air, as they say, even eat with a spoon!
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04) A couple of meters away from the path, in a few seconds I scored a handful of delicious lingonberries

I got to the monastery at 21 o'clock, at sunset.
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I was warmly greeted, offered to wash in the bathhouse, treated to tea and homemade cake.
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The main room where the inhabitants of the monastery spend time is the dining room, where they eat, receive guests, and sleep.
I really liked the calm atmosphere that reigned in the monastery: everyone is sitting on the floor, drinking tea, someone is reading, someone is just sitting, everyone is talking little and quietly.
When the lights out came on schedule, we cleared the tables, laid out the sleeping bags and went to bed. I spent the whole next day at the monastery.

Reference:
Buddhist monastery Shad Tchup Ling (Tib. "Place of Practice and Realization") was founded by Mikhail Vasilyevich Sannikov, born in 1961. After serving in Afghanistan, he studied at the Buddhist Institute at (Buryatia), practiced at datsans in Mongolia and Tuva. Then he received initiation into a lama and on May 15, 1995 arrived on Mount Kachkanar to start building a monastery, the exact location of which was indicated to him by his teacher Pema Jang (Darma Dodi Zhalsaraev, 1904-1997). For the first two years, Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit erected the walls of the monastery alone: ​​for this he burned fires between the rocks, with a crowbar and a sledgehammer he broke stones and clay - the main building material. Over time, volunteers began to join the construction, and now there are several permanent residents in the monastery, there are already quite a few buildings on the territory, there is water (from the reservoirs located above), electricity (generator + solar panels) and gas. But there is still a lot of work - after all, the construction plan is designed for 300 years.
Many tourists come to the monastery - some just to take a look, and some - to take part in the construction.
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In the morning I got up at 7, for breakfast there was buckwheat with vegetables. Before a meal, prayer, then each of his plate transfers a little to an iron bowl, passed in a circle. At first I thought it was some kind of religious ritual, but it turned out that everyone throws off like that to feed the small affectionate cat that lives here, which constantly climbs on you and hums as soon as it sees that you are sitting down or lying down. Also, several dogs of the same breed live in a separate enclosure.
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After breakfast, Lama Dokshit assigned duties for the day's work. At first we carried sandbags in the company of Batista the dog. Then Dima and I, who has been living here for more than 5 years, laid the roof on the roof of the enclosure, where the dog Nastya was fussing right below us and her puppies squeaked. The weather was constantly changing: when it was raining or hailting, we had a tea break.
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After lunch, I climbed higher up the mountain to look at the rocks.
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21) The same camel

Afterwards, I must admit, I disdained the mountains below 1500m. But in the Urals, I realized that the height does not matter at all. Stunning views, huge rocks dotted with millennial wrinkles, dense vegetation ... Here I fell head over heels in love with the Ural Mountains.
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Unfortunately, I didn’t manage to enjoy my loneliness. in the afternoon a loud-voiced shkolota climbed the mountain.
In the evening we poked at rocks and then putty the Parinirvana Stupa. Before dinner, we went to the bathhouse, where we steamed ourselves well with a fir broom.
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29) View from the bath

In the morning, after breakfast, Lama Dokshit gave me a lift to Kachkanar on an ATV.

In general, it can be called a monastery for the time being conditionally - the bulk of the inhabitants are practicing laymen, not monks. Nevertheless, it is a very pleasant place, I rested my soul. If possible, I will definitely come here for a longer period.

Here are some links

Buddhist temple on Mount Kachkanar

We went on this trip in August 2011. I accidentally saw it on the Internet winter photo Buddhist Stupa of Awakening and said: "I want to go there." We, of course, are not Buddhists, and we went not even out of idle curiosity, but with the aim of learning: what kind of monastery in the mountains is and how you can live there ... And the mountain, they say, is beautiful, only you can't climb it.

At the entrance to the city, we understand that it is on a mountain, because from the road you could see beautiful distances. As they later learned, it is called Dolgaya Mountain. Directly from the city you can see Mount Kachkanar in all its beauty and grandeur, but only one of its peaks.

Mount Kachkanar - highest peak Middle Urals, its height is 887.6 m. Once upon a time it was a sacred place for the Mansi pagan population. With the advent of Buddhism to the Mongol-Oirat steppes, bloodless sacrifices began to be made to the rulers of the mountains, and live animals were donated. A family that moved to a new place needed to make an offering to the spirit of the area on the highest hill or mountain. Not only did the Mansi praise Mount Kachkanar, but the Kalmyks also worshiped it to provide them with support in risky activities. Between the city and the Kachkanar mountain flows the Vyya river, turned by a dam into the Nizhnevyi reservoir.

"Kachkanar Sea" - this is what the people call the Nizhnevyi reservoir. In the interfluve of the Is and Vyi rivers on the Vyya river, a dam was built and the Kachkanar pond was dug. From one half of the reservoir is taken drinking water for the city, on the other half there is a beach, a boat station, they fish in a pond. Several thousand fry of carp, silver carp and grass carp were launched into the reservoir. By south bank pond in its upper part is the border of the Sverdlovsk and Perm regions. We were lucky with a place to spend the night on the bank of the reservoir and we watched a beautiful sunset all evening.

And at night the moon was shining in full force. We even woke up because a lunar path "runs" from the moon across the lake right to our tent. But, unfortunately, I didn't want to get up and take a picture of her, the dream took its toll.

Waking up at 8 o'clock in the morning, having breakfast and swimming, we set off on our way - to look for a monastery on the mountain. We arrived at the barrier of the Western Quarry, parked the car (there are a lot of them there), loaded ourselves with backpacks and set off. The road is very dusty at first because MAZs and other equipment drive from quarry to quarry. Walk along it only 500 meters. Then there will be a road slightly to the left to the ski slope, but there is no need to go to it. But the next turn to the left leads to the monastery and Mount Camel. Then you need to go all the time to the left, do not turn to the right, except to look at the quarry itself from the observation deck. After about 2 km there will be a turn to the right, where you can see the Western quarry of Vysokogorsky GOK.

The quarry, of course, is impressive, it is interesting to watch how everything is scurrying far below, but from the dust there was poor visibility of everything that could be seen far away.

A detailed study of the Kachkanar ore-bearing massif began in the 30-40s. In 1931 it was established that it consists of two deposits - Gusevogorsky and Kachkanarsky. On June 10, 1950, a decree was adopted on the construction of the country's largest mining and processing plant (GOK) at the foot of Mount Kachkanar with a capacity of 33 million tons of crude iron ore per year.

On May 27, 1957, the first detachment of daredevils came to Mount Dolgaya. The products of the GOK go to the Nizhniy Tagil Metallurgical Plant, the Chelyabinsk and Chusovoy Metallurgical Plants. We saw how others work and return to the embankment to continue climbing. Then go for about 4 km to the fork where the trees are marked with white ribbons, where the building materials are, where the monastery equipment stands, etc.

Straight - the road to " mountain lake", About three hundred meters and on the right there will be a small pond, which used to be a quarry. But we didn't go there. And to the right is the path leading to the monastery. Climb to the monastery for about 1 km. If you take some building materials with you and bring it to the monastery, then you will be given tea as a token of gratitude. Such assistance is and entrance ticket to the territory of the monastery. Along the path, laid out of stone, planks, gratings, we go to the "Stupa of Awakening".

The ascent to the visible building of the monastery is a small kurumnik - a road of stones.

In front of this kurumnik there is a rather large clearing, where you can take a break.

There is still poor visibility in the distance due to quarrying.

We go up to the Stupa of Awakening.

At the entrance there are the rules of the monastery, a gong, security guards, local animals, and already quite a lot of interesting things. You won't notice everything at once, for example, we considered everything anew on the way back ...

And then a monk meets us and invites us to have tea. Then they tell how to get to the camel mountain and to the monument to Yuri Gagarin! Yes, there is such a thing !!!

Through the territory of the monastery to the Camel rock to go about 200 m. It is beautiful, dignified and huge. This is it from afar, from the main summit, where we will go further.

But what can be seen from the humps of the camel is also unforgettable! This is exactly the top of the mountain that could be seen from the city. That is, if you reach it, you can see both the pond and the city.

This is the same quarry that we examined on the way to the monastery.

And this is all that is around!

To go from Camel to the main peak of Kachkanar, you need to find a path that is trodden on the right at its base. Walk along it to the main peak of the Middle Urals for 15-20 minutes. From Mount Camel it can be seen exactly in the middle with a metal spire at the very top.

And what views open up from it! At the foot of this side of the mountain is the village of Kosya.

The monastery itself is visible.

From the main summit there is a well-trodden path to the summit of the mountain closest to the city. We were told to walk for about 1 hour. It is a pity, but we did not have enough time to get there, and we went back to the monastery for a tour of its territory. While walking, we tried to photograph everything that came across on the way.

And now about the territory…. The Shad Tchup Ling Monastery is being built in the rocks on the northeastern slope of Kachkanar Mountain at an altitude of 843 meters above sea level. The construction is observed according to the ancient Tibetan and Mongolian canons of monastic architecture, which allows preserving the ecosystem of the area and harmoniously fitting the complex of structures into the picturesque landscape of Mount Kachkanar. The main function of the monastery is to organize and provide a Buddhist practical process: conducting rituals, services, traditional festive events, individual and collective practices

One of the main goals of the construction of the monastery complex is the preservation of Buddhist teachings and, in particular, a unique system of self-knowledge and self-improvement, which is Tantric Buddhism. One of the key buildings of the monastery is a stupa. A stupa (chorten, suburgan) is one of the important attributes of Buddhism. It is a monument to the enlightened mind of Buddha, and is also a vertical model of the universe. Installed in certain places harmonizing and structuring space around itself. This is a pasture.

Here is the entrance to the courtyard.

Apparently, the local power plant ...

Inside the buildings ...

Mountain herbs.

In the monastery, right on the mountain, there is even a bathhouse. Rope crossing for weight lifting.

Library.

1st floor - library, 2nd floor - living rooms.

Next to the library, on the 1st floor, there is a stoker (lined with stone). A tea house is painted green, and above it is a children's room.

The plan of the monastery in the future.

ATTENTION!!! From the trip, we do not advertise to monks, do not call for people to leave their homes to live in this monastery, and also do not spread this religion. There were no calls to us from the monks to stay and accept their teachings, but the stunning beauty around, the silence and tranquility are very conducive to well ... stay at least a little bit ... make you want to get away from the bustle of the city ... Therefore, I will give a biography of the monk in a very brief summary only with an informative purpose.

Biography of Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshita

Tendzin Dokshit (in the world Mikhail Vasilyevich Sannikov) was born on November 30, 1961 in the city of Votkinsk, Udmurt Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic, into a family of hereditary military men. In 1979 he was admitted to the Perm Agricultural Institute. Finished courses civil aviation... In May 1980 he was drafted into the ranks of the USSR Armed Forces.

In February 1981 he was sent under a contract to Afghanistan. One of the permanent main tasks of his group in Afghanistan was the destruction of the caravans with weapons going to the Mujahideen from Pakistan. In 1987 he retired with the rank of captain. For several months he worked in the morgue of the Leninsky district of Perm as an orderly and assistant pathologist.

He studied at the Nizhny Tagil Art School. From his former mentor in Japanese sword fighting (Kendo) he learned about the existence of the Buddhist tradition in Buryatia. In 1989 he entered the Ivolginsky Datsan, where he was assigned to a group specializing in Buddhist Tantra, which was selected by Lama Pema Jang (Darma-Dodi Zhalsaraev), and took monastic vows under the name Tenzin Dokshit.

In 1991-1993. lived in the city of Gusinoozyorsk, then - in Tanchin-datsan of Dashi Gandan Darzhaling (Gusinoe Ozero settlement), where he practiced rituals. In the summer of 1993 he traveled to Mongolia, where he received initiation into the Yamantaka tantra from Lama Sanzhe-la in a retreat near the city of Orkhontuul (Selenginsky aimak). In December 1994 he was ordained a lama. In the winter of 1995, his Root Teacher, Pema Dzhang, gave him an order to build a Buddhist datsan in Russia, indicating the place of construction - the top of Mount Kachkanar (Sverdlovsk region).

The temple was named "Shadtchupling" (in Tibetan pronunciation "Sheddubling", Tib. Bshad sgrub gling; "Place of study and realization"). On May 16, 1995, work began on the construction of the monastery at the indicated location. Temple "Shadchupling" is being built by the forces of Tenzin Dokshit and a small community of people who took his initial monastic vows. Material construction is provided by the community of his lay disciples living in the Middle Urals.

In 2001, in Kachkanar, students of Tenzin Dokshita registered a local religious organization as part of the Russian Diamond Way Association of the Karma Kagyu School. The question of the direct registration of the monastery as a reclusive center of the "Association" was also considered. The Association's orientation is towards predominantly mundane, non-monastic Buddhism.

How to get there by car:

on the highway Yekaterinburg - Kachkanar. In Kachkanar, along the main road, at the second traffic light (the Ploshchad stop complex will be on the right at the traffic light), turn left to st. Krylov. This is the road towards Valerianovsk. Drive to the large sign "Western quarry", turn left along it and go to the barrier before entering the territory of the quarry. Leave the car at the barrier and walk along the dumped road straight along the railway tracks, along which ore is taken out of the quarry on turntables.

And here again the restless head and walking legs again carried me through the lands of the Fatherland. My daughter, eighteen years old, and my friend Denis, volunteered to go with me. Our path this time was already a little further than usual - although it is rich Perm Territory to the sights, but they also come to an end sometime. No, of course, you can watch a lot more, but here priorities and Wishlist come into play. And they gravitate more and more to large spaces and mountains. In a word - to the scale.

This time was chosen to the side Sverdlovsk region: almost on the border with Perm Territory there is Kachkanar city... He is glorious Kachkanar mining and processing plant (holding "Evraz"), which in its vicinity is mining titanomagnetite ore.

View of the monastery from the height of the northern peak of the mountain

What can be seen in Kachkanar
and on the way to it?

The bulk of the sights are concentrated in the area of ​​the same name the mountains: the mountain itself with its rocks at the top, a mountain lake at the place of stone mining, Buddhist monastery and stele to Gagarin... At the foot of the mountain, on the way to the top, located Western quarry of Kachkanarsky GOK... Also if you go to the side Perm Territory, then 40 kilometers from Kachkanara can be visited mountain.

But more on everything below. Since there was a lot of photographic material, then, with all my desire, I could not shove in something unproductive and show all these objects in one report without loss. Therefore, there will be three parts - one about the monastery, and the second about other sights. Kachkanara, well, the third is about Mount Caps.

How to get there?

Get to Kachkanara not difficult - Kachkanar located 280 km from Perm and 260 from Yekaterinburg... Didn't check the road from Ekata but from Perm the road is quite, albeit very winding.

GPS coordinates

58.77678, 59.38694

Shad Tchup Ling monastery on the map

How to climb to the top?

We have chosen a longer route - from Western quarry... The reason for this is simple - only walking this path can you see yourself Western quarry.

To get to the starting point of this route, you need to drive through the city, turn in the direction Western Career, cross the dam and soon you will see the company's checkpoint Evraz... Feel free to leave the car there, turn into the undergrowth on the left and go around the checkpoint. After that, you can safely go out again on the road to continue the journey without any shuddering. The road is flat and carefully smoothed by graders. After about 2.5 kilometers you will reach a fork - on the right there will be an observation deck with views of the quarry, and the road to the monastery turns to the left. On this road, you need to go for about 4 km more without turning anywhere until the fork with a tree decorated with ribbons. To the right there will be a road to the monastery, and straight ahead - to a mountain lake and rock camel.

For those who do not want to trample on white feet, I can offer a life hack how to shorten the walking distance by 6-7 kilometers. Find out at the reception of KGOK the phone number of the pass bureau, contact him and get the necessary passes for the tourist purpose of the visit. I did not check it myself (since it was a day off the day before), but according to reports the method works. In an all-wheel drive vehicle with normal ground clearance, you can reach the fork with the "ribbon" tree - in some places, closer to the top, there is still snow on the road.

Buddhist community Shad Tchup Ling

History Shad Tchup Ling(in Tibetan pronunciation "Sheddubling", Tib. bshad sgrub gling; "Place of study and implementation") is directly related to the personality of his lama - Sanye Tenzin Dokshit (Mikhail Sannikov) who at the direction of his teacher Pem Dzhanga (Darma Dodi Zhalsaraeva) in mid-May 1995 arrived at Mount Kachkanar and laid the first stone of the monastery there.

For 22 years of existence on the harsh stones of the mountain, the monastery (a small reservation regarding this below) under the leadership Llamas Dokshit gradually built up. Its current state is far from admirable - it is striking that despite the heroic efforts of the followers, the lack of resources affects literally everything and the construction is moving very slowly. However, over the past year, the monks have erected a number of important objects, including a large statue of buddha... As far as I understand, in order for the community to have the right to be called a monastery, it must build 8 stupas - half have already been created, and the rest of the monks intend to finish in 2017.

To support the community, good form when visiting her, there will be building materials or food... To find out the most relevant things, it is better to call the community phone number in advance and ask the guest on duty for information. Nobody obliges to anything, but just keep in mind that you are just a curious guest within these walls. We took with us a drill for a hammer drill and sweets for tea.

In addition to tourists, the community is also hospitable to pilgrims, detailed information you can get it .

In my opinion, the most beautiful monastery looks like in winter, when the wind and frost covers everything in a thick layer of frost. However, to see all this splendor, you will have to work hard - the miles-long way uphill on skis is thorny.

Why go so far and climb so high?


Guests of the community on the outskirts of the summit are greeted by a kurumnik
The most famous Buddhist prayer is Om mani padme hum

To get to the monastery you need to go through the main gate.

The doors of the gate have colorful painting. Winds, humidity and cold are pretty merciless even for modern acrylic paints.


Symbiosis of stone and spirit. In such harsh conditions, every natural shelter is used.
Mortar
The guest on duty conducts an excursion for tourists
Mortar
In the loopholes of the rocks you can see the vastness of the Ural Parma
The courtyard of the monastery
After the excursion, we were invited to drink tea, and the child also took on help in making tablets with mantras
The day was a success - towards evening the clouds parted and we enjoyed the picturesque rays of the sun


At the foot of the cliff, the monks take water
Main Buddha statue

Video

A small video from the series "I’m doing it” - don’t pay attention to my scratched face - I was in such a hurry to get ready the day before that I drove headlong into the box while loading the shmurdyak.

What to see nearby?

Stay on the line - there are two more promised notes ahead: about herself and Mount Caps.