Sugar mountain rio. Sugarloaf and Rio de Janeiro from above. Climbing to the top of Pan de Asucar

Oh Rio Rio, oh Rio Rio, oh Rio de Janeiro! (with)

A story about two main places in the City of God.

Sugar Loaf(Pao de Acucar) is a 400-meter mountain with wonderful views.
Copacabana and Sugarloaf.

It is worth going to Sugar Loaf early in the morning (right to the opening). This is due not only to fewer tourists, but also to the position of the sun, which shines directly on the city.

How to get there: for example, from Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana you can take buses 511 or 512 to the Praia Vermelha stop.
All routes with stops and even fares are indicated on Google maps. This is the first time I've seen such a thing.
The bus service to Rio is a separate story. There are a lot of basses and they just fly! If you need to get on the bus, you need to "catch" it, like we have a minibus. If no one on the bus has given a signal to exit, then it will simply drive past the stop, because the driver's salary directly depends on the number of flights per shift.

Find a climber.

Everyone who will go to the 2014 World Cup must mentally prepare for this:

The ascent takes place in two stages: by cable car you climb a smaller mountain, where you need to transfer from one trolley to another. A minute - and you're at the top!

The goods are delivered to the top along the parallel edge.

On the mountain, in the area of ​​the helipad, the following monkeys live:

They are much kinder than those of Botanical Garden Rio, allow themselves to be touched and eaten from their hands. Don't forget to bring a bunch of bananas with you.

Also, don't forget a camera with a long-range lens. In the evening you can take pictures of planes taking off from Santos Dumont airport.

And you can just walk here for more than one hour.

Statue of Christ on Mount Corcovado
World famous landmark of Rio. On all souvenirs, in any magazine or newspaper, on buses, on signs, etc., etc. Every tourist recognizes Rio de Janeiro from the statue of Christ, as Paris from the Eiffel Tower.

How to get there: the route consists of three stages - metro, bus, tram. First, we get to the Largo do Machado metro. Then you need to get on the Onibus bus going towards Cosme Velho (any minibus is also suitable, you can check with the driver if it goes to its destination).

We drove to Corcovado right after Sugarloaf. Despite the fact that all this time there was sunny weather, literally in a couple of hours everything changed and upon arrival we saw this:

You could look at the slate without glasses.

At night, the statue is powerfully illuminated.

The city view is good. If not for the clouds.

The main problem, in addition to the fact that it is very cold in the clouds and nothing is visible, is the difficulty of taking a picture against the background of the statue without the participation of other, unfamiliar faces in the frame. The flow here is always such that no, no, and some lady will fit into the frame.

But this is not a problem either. I went downstairs and bought a photoshop shot:

Yes, I completely forgot. About tram tickets. Buy them in advance, otherwise it might happen like this:
Arriving at Cosme Velho, we tried to buy a ticket at the box office, but it turned out that for technical reasons, the sale was not carried out. We were recommended to go to the cafe 100 meters up the street, where they were supposed to help us. With grief in half, finding a cafe, I stood in line of three people. The queue moved quickly and after 15 minutes they put me at a laptop in a usb-modem where the page for buying tickets through the site is open

While in Rio de Janeiro, take a look at the famous Sugar Loaf Mountain.

The sight that opens from the mountain is amazing. From above, a stunning panoramic view of Rio de Janeiro, you can see the numerous golden beaches of the city. From the eastern side, tourists will see the Guanabara Bay, over which the Sugar Loaf rises. Visible from the mountain famous statue Christ, located on another mountain - Corcovado.

origin of name

There are three common versions of the origin unusual name the mountains. The first - the mountain in its shape is similar to special structures in the form of cones, in which Portuguese traders in past centuries transported sugar. Locals called these forms "Sugar Loaf". The second version - the name of the mountain comes from more ancient times, when the Indian tribe Tamoyos lived here, who called the mountain so for reasons known only to them. According to the third version, the most obvious to many, the mountain was called Sugar Head only because it looks like a piece of sugar, or sugar bread, or a sweet Easter cake. There are many other versions, but they do not find historical confirmation, so we will not consider them.

In the chronicles, the Sugar Loaf in the mountainous city of Rio de Janeiro was first mentioned in the notes of the Spanish missionary Jose de Anchiet in 1565, who narrated the founding of the city between the mountains of Cara de Cau and Sugar Loaf. The first European to see the mountain was Portuguese captain Andre Gonçalves (1502).

Climbing the mountain

Previously, the ascent of tourists to the mountain was almost impossible. Now all the requirements for the safe ascent of everyone to the top of the mountain have been taken into account. First you need to get to the top of the nearby mountain called "Urka" (either on foot or by cable car). And from it already on the funicular to get to the top of the Sugar Loaf.

Most tourists start to take their breath away even before climbing the main peak. Beauty begins on the debut ascent - Mount Urka, where wonderful observation platforms, there are several restaurants and souvenir shops. Here tourists are offered excursion pallets on a small helicopter over Rio de Janeiro. Stunning landscapes are beyond words.

As for the Sugar Loaf itself, it is even more interesting. At the top, there is a picturesque park with many species of Brazilian animals and birds. Flora and fauna are amazing.

One of the most recognizable places in Rio de Janeiro is Mount Pan di Asucar, or Sugarloaf. It is of a very unusual spiky shape, 400 meters high, overlooking the Guanabara Bay, in the eastern part of Rio de Janeiro. At the foot of the mountain, the story begins modern city, in 1565 a Portuguese settlement was founded here, which later turned into modern Rio.

We will go there today to take a look at Rio de Janeiro and its surroundings from a height.

The mountain is located in the east of the city, - a peaked peak in the area, with a characteristic (for the Russian language) name URCA. Get to the station cable car the easiest way is to take a taxi (which is relatively inexpensive, from the Capocabana area, a taxi cost 12 reais = $ 5.3), or by bus to Urca from Botafogo metro station. You can also walk, if you wish, about 20-25 minutes from the metro.

The cable car was opened here in 1912. At that time, it was the first cable car in Brazil, and the third in the world. The entrance is paid 53 R $ (1 $ USA = 2.26 R $). On weekends and around sunset hours, you will have to queue up, so it makes sense to arrive early.

The wagons can accommodate 75 people and are sent as they fill up, or every 15-20 minutes. It is a pity that the neighboring branch is a freight one, I would not mind going in an open booth.)

And ... we freeze with delight! What can I say, Rio de Janeiro really beautiful city, especially if you look at it from such viewing platforms ...

From here it seems clean, well-groomed and beautiful:

The hill opposite is called Morro da Babilônia, in other words, Babylon. And right behind the hill (not visible from here) is the favela of the same name, Morro da Babilônia:

Below is a magnificent beach called Red beach, for some reason. However, the beaches are everywhere, along the entire coast ...

IME - Instituto Militar de Engenharia)) - Military Engineering Institute:

View of the Botafogo, Flamengo districts (see map above). But the main thing is, of course, the statue of Christ the Savior, towering over the Corcovado mountain (706 meters):

And here is Urca. Apparently, today it is a prestigious residential area in which far from poor Brazilians live:

Here, at the intermediate station of the Morro da Urca cable car, there is something for everyone! Street cafe, souvenir shops, concert hall and other elements of the tourist infrastructure. Here, located Helipad from where, with at least three passengers, you can fly over Rio:

A 7-minute flight over Rio costs about R $ 250. Unfortunately, I was not able to carry out my plan, as there was a huge queue on the weekend, and absolutely no one on a weekday (for the flight, at least 3 people are required). There is at least one reason to come back!))

Or you can just sit, or stand, looking at the city distance:

From here, from a height of 400 meters, the most impressive view to the city and surroundings:

And also to the southern part of Rio de Janeiro, where the main tourist mecca is concentrated:

This is, first of all, Copacabana - one of the most famous areas of Rio de Janeiro. Located in the southern part of the city. Its natural border is the famous four-kilometer beach, along the embankment of which is the equally famous Atlantic Avenue:

... and Ipanema (beyond the horizon). In this part of Rio, almost all year round reigns beach vacation and an atmosphere of complete relaxation. Numerous hotels, restaurants, beach activities and other "summer" pleasures. Both beaches (Capocabana and Ipanema) are located on the open Atlantic Ocean:

Uninhabited but haunted Cotunduba Island:

I must say that the weather at the height of the mountain changes very often. A bright sun is shining, from somewhere from the ocean, or from the distant northern hills, clouds are falling, hiding the views of the city, or the fog completely covers the mountain, so that you can not see anything around.

Around the observation deck, there are equipped paths along which outlandish flora grows:

As I said, the weather changes quickly.

It immediately becomes cooler, and therefore more pleasant (in the sun + 28C + 30C).

Until the fog completely hid us from the outside world:

Only 15 minutes have passed, not a trace remains of the fog, as well as of the pleasant coolness ...

And again the sun fills everything around with soft light:

Time to go back!

Morro da Urca can be easily climbed on foot along a scenic road with numerous viewing platforms. They say that one can also climb the Sugar Loaf, but only accompanied by professional guides. Judging by the inaccessibility of the mountain, it is probably impossible to climb it without climbing skills.

And below, in the sun, the bohemian Urca is basking, somewhat reminiscent of Mediterranean resorts ...

Urca and Botafogo districts:

The building on the left is the Rio Sul Center Building, one of the tallest in Rio de Janeiro. Although its height is only 164 meters, and the number of storeys is 50. Upstairs there is observation deck, I suppose with gorgeous views of the city:

Museu de Ciência da Terra - Museum of geosciences, mineralogy and geology. The collection of the museum, opened in 1909, contains a huge number of minerals, rocks, fossils, etc .:

The Institute Benjamin Constant (IBC) is a kind of national information center on issues related to visual impairment. Within the walls of the institute there is an educational institution for the blind:

The so-called "sugar loaves" and tongs are tweezers for cracking them.

Another proof that not long ago the world was one. Part of Iran used to be part of the Russian Empire. It is no coincidence that so-called "sugar loafs" are still produced in mass quantities in Iran, which have ceased to be produced in the USSR, but now this technology is being revived in Russian Federation... The very tradition of drinking a lot of hot tea with crushed sugar in a bite in a cold country appeared relatively recently, in the second half of the 19th century. Maybe it was then that a sharp change in the climate towards a cooling took place?

Traveler Mikhail Kozhukhov visited the Iranian city of Yazd. There he witnessed the process of making "sugar heads" in a small factory and even took part in it himself. It turns out that sugar first came to Iran from Russia in the century before last. But, unlike Russia, in Iran the tradition of drinking tea with a bite with chopped pieces of "sugar loaf" has been preserved. For a long time in the USSR there was a custom of drinking tea from a saucer with pieces of refined sugar, since "sugar heads" had not been produced for a long time.

Watch from the 27th to the 36th minutes.

Around the World - Iran

In the old days, molten sugar was poured into special molds, and it cooled and hardened so. The result was a snow-white ingot, shaped like an artillery shell. This ingot was called the sugar loaf. The sugar loaf was in the shape of a cylinder. One end of the cylinder was flat, and a sugar loaf could be placed on this end. The other end of the cylinder was pointed. The sugar loaf, taken out of the mold, was wrapped in a special thick blue paper, which was called that - sugar paper.
Sugar loafs were made in different sizes, weighing one pood (16 kg.), Half a pood, etc.

In the 19th century, the Russians developed their own tea drinking ritual and their own recipes for making tea. The custom of drinking tea came from Siberia with a bit of sugar or, as they said then, "with a bite."
And here is how, for example, the famous Kustodievskaya "Merchant's wife" could drink tea: with sweet cherry, strawberry, apple jam, with honey or a bite with a lump of crushed sugar. She spread jam on bread or ate it with a spoon from a saucer. Sugar in the 19th century was completely different from the present, loose. It was unlit and in pieces - the owner of the house cut it off from a large "sugar loaf", and drank tea with it "in a bite." And the crushed sugar did not dissolve instantly, but was "long-lasting" like a lollipop, which helped to prolong the pleasure. And, of course, like today, they added milk, cream or a round of expensive lemon to tea, and sometimes fruit liqueurs.

This is roughly what sugar looked like in the 19th century. It was unclarified and in pieces - it had to be chipped off. And now such a charm is brought to us from England ...

In Russia, tea was drunk in two versions: with a bite and overlapping. The most common is a bite or "through sugar". This required a shard " white stone". The sugarloaf was splitting into large pieces. With special sugar tongs, these pieces were not divided into small pieces. Sugar was unrefined, very dense in consistency, and therefore resembled stone in hardness. Yes, and he dissolved even in hot water rather slowly. To drink tea with a bite, a small "stone" lump of sugar was clamped with the front teeth and hot tea was pulled through it. He washed the piece and left in his mouth a light sweet, not cloying taste afterbirth. With modern refined sugar, this "trick" will not work. It is clear that the sounds produced during such drinking were quite specific. One of the reasons for the non-proliferation of drinking tea with a bite in the aristocratic circle of the 18th-19th centuries lies, without a doubt, in the ethics of the table.
The second way of drinking tea - overlapping, loosening, dissolving a piece of sugar loaf or, more rarely, granulated sugar in tea - was less popular in Russia for several reasons. First, until the second half of the XIX For centuries, sugar was a very expensive product, and the consumption for a cup of tea was quite large due to its lack of refinement. In any case, for aristocrats it was an alternative to a bit of tea. Secondly, it is known that any sugar solution fixes aromas in it, diminishing their aromatic component. The latter, as you know, in drinking Chinese long tea in Russia, and in Siberia especially, was quite high and respected by tea drinkers. But this situation was hardly the main one.

In Siberia, as in all of Russia, they drank tea as usual with a bite. " Most of peasants drinks tea through sugar (with a bite). In the second half of the 19th century, when sugar became a mass product, they began to drink it over the top, but always with a bite. “The hostess asked if we drink tea with a bite? We answer that we drink over the top, i.e. with sugar. - "I can understand this very well, but let me know if you would like some bites for tea?" It turned out that drinking tea with a bite means eating a sweet cake or something like a cake made at home along with tea. " In Siberia, they have always drank tea "with a bite", with honey, fruit dehydrations and soft: various pies, cheesecakes, anointed, esvit, etc. Turnover "with a bite", i.e. with various pastries, jams, etc. was distributed exclusively in Siberia. In the European part of the country, they did not say that.
"In aristocratic houses, tea was served with cream and crushed sugar. In grocery stores you could buy conical sugar loops of various sizes, wrapped in paper. From such a head, special tweezers for sugar broke off pieces, with which they drank tea. At the same time, special tea lovers could distinguish sugar to taste and sugar content, and they took only certain varieties, since this significantly influenced the taste of tea. Granulated sugar was bought only for the kitchen - from it the tea lost its transparency, became cloudy, and besides, it did not have that "taste" that was in lumpy. "

Sugar loafs. The beginning of the twentieth century.

Sugarloaf.

The technology of making "sugar heads" was published already in 1887 by the engineer-technologist Nikolai Vasilyevich Cherikovsky. http://newsugarshop.ru/katalog/figurnyj-s ahar / neobychnyj-sahar / saharnaja-golova

The development of tea consumption contributed to the rise of those industries that were directly or indirectly associated with the tea trade. So, In Tula, the production of samovars was widely developed: if in the second half of the 17th century samovars were produced almost individually, then by 1850 there were 28 samovar factories in Tula, the total production of samovars reached 120,000 per year.

Russian porcelain also gained fame in the 19th century - originally, tea ware, on the initiative of Catherine II, began to be produced in small batches at the Imperial Porcelain Factory, later numerous private firms were engaged in this. In the second half of the 19th century, the MS Kuznetsov Partnership for the Production of Porcelain and Earthenware Products became the main producer of "mass" tea porcelain, which included many previously independent porcelain and earthenware factories in Russia. At the beginning of the 20th century, the catalogs of porcelain factories contained hundreds of types of tea pairs, sets and individual items of tea table setting, of any shape, size and color, for every taste.

Overland transportation (exclusively by horse-drawn transport) was the reason for the high cost of tea in Russia. From the Chinese border to Moscow, tea convoys traveled about 11,000 km, which took up to six months. To the price of tea, in addition to the duty of 80-120% of the purchase price levied by the tsarist government, the costs of transportation, feeding the carriers and security were added, as a result, for the consumer, tea in Russia, in comparable prices, was 10-12 times more expensive than in Germany and England. On the cups of the Sitegin plant in the 60s of the XIX century, you can find the inscription: "Kyakhten tea and Murom kalach - a rich man is having breakfast."
The situation changed radically only in the second half of the 19th century. , when, first in 1862, the import of Cantonese tea delivered by sea to Russia began, and from the 1880s the Samara-Ufa and Yekaterinburg-Tyumen railways, which drastically reduced the time and cost of overland delivery of tea. In the same years, the supply of tea to Russia from India and Ceylon began - this tea was delivered by sea to Odessa and from there was transported around the country. The price of tea has plummeted and it has become a daily mass drink. In 1886, tea was included in the army food allowance, and from the mid-1890s it began to appear in labor contracts as one of the parts of wages (paid by "money, food and tea")

In 1890-93, on Myasnitskaya, a three-story house with basements and trading rooms on the ground floor for a specialized tea trade was built for Sergei Perlov according to Klein's design.

Until the middle of the 19th century, the distribution of tea in Russia was geographically extremely uneven: they drank it mainly in cities, on the territory of European Russia and Siberia. At the same time, in Ukraine, in the Middle Volga region, on the Don, as well as in Belarus, tea was practically unknown. Until the end of the 18th century, retail sales of tea were developed only in Moscow. (wholesale trade was also carried out at the Irbitskaya and Makaryevskaya fairs in Nizhny Novgorod). Even in St. Petersburg, until the middle of the 19th century, there was only one tea shop in the entire city, while in Moscow in 1847 the number of specialized tea shops already exceeded a hundred, and there were more than three hundred tea and other catering establishments where ready-made tea was served. In the first half of the 19th century, up to 60% and most of all tea imported into the Russian Empire was consumed by Moscow, the rest was delivered to the cities and estates of Central Russia.
In the second half of the 19th century, the area of ​​tea distribution began to grow rapidly: tea trade opened in Odessa, Poltava, Kharkov, Rostov, Orenburg, Samara, Uralsk, Astrakhan. And by the beginning of the 20th century, Russia had become the leader in the absolute consumption of tea in the world. (excluding China, for which there is no reliable information about its own consumption of tea at this time). The total turnover of the Russian tea trade before the First World War reached several hundred million rubles a year, tea warehouses and shops were available in almost all large cities countries, the import of tea in the early years of the XX century reached 57 thousand tons per year and continued to grow.
It was in the second half of the 19th century that the production of "tea infrastructure" - samovars, tea porcelain sharply increased, tea became cheaper and became generally available and ubiquitous in the vast country. And at the same time: in the second half of the 19th century, sugar had already become a widespread inexpensive product, as evidenced by the cookbooks of that time.

Maybe so much tea began to be drunk in Russia after in the second half of the 19th century the climate suddenly changed in the direction of a cold snap?

Leafing through old magazines, sometimes you come across amazing illustrations. Today, not every one of our contemporaries will say what a "sugarloaf" is. And here, please, here it is - in all its glory.

On the engraving, these same sugar loaves. One is a giant one, created for advertising purposes, and around it - ordinary ones, for shops and shops. This composition was placed at the 1870 Manufacturing Exhibition in St. Petersburg.

For the first time, industrial sugar appeared in the form of a "head". Historians claim that the production of sugar in the form of conical heads was already carried out in Venice at the end of the 10th century.

"Sugar loafs" were prepared as follows: cane sugar, purified from impurities by refining, turned into a thick syrup (massecuite). This syrup is hot (98-99 ° C)poured into special cone-shaped forms with a small hole in the bottom to remove excess liquid. The molds were then left for several weeks to dry and form crystals.

The result was a snow-white ingot, shaped like an artillery shell. This ingot was called the sugar loaf. The sugar loaf was in the shape of a cylinder. One end of the cylinder was flat, and a sugar loaf could be placed on this end. The other end of the cylinder was pointed. The sugar loaf, taken out of the mold, was wrapped in a special thick blue paper, which was called that - sugar paper.

The Persians used bamboo sticks to dry sugar. The Egyptians are glass molds, while the Chinese are ceramic. For many years Europeans took wooden structures as assistants, and later switched to clay ones. However, all of these materials are quite fragile. Therefore, at the very beginning of the industrialization of sugar production, they were replaced by zinc and steel. Each form had a lock. With its help, the mold was easily opened, and the sugar loaf, after hardening, was easily removed.

Sugar loafs were made in different sizes, andweighed from 5 to 15 kilograms. Of course, this volume was much more than what ordinary consumers demanded. And the price "bite". The sellers had to break the sugar into small pieces. The hardest part was with the 15-kg giants. Soon, however, the sugar heads were cut into pieces in an industrial way. It was more convenient for both buyers and sellers.

Centrifugal crushing began to be used around 1900. This method allowed the massecuite to dry even faster. Drying did not take place indoors, but in a centrifuge. At the end, the sugar was taken out of the molds and packaged.

Sugar loops ceased production in Denmark and Sweden around 1940. Around the same time, the fine loose sugar familiar to us appeared. Traders continued to sell sugar by weight until 1955. And then 2 kg packages appeared in stores.

Today, sugar heads are mainly distributed in Arab countries, and they are still produced in Belgium. They can last as long as you want - truly eternal sugar. The base of the "head" (the lower two-thirds) is traditionally wrapped in blue paper, always of the same color and density - the blue-gray color was once even called the color of sugar paper. Sugarloaf 20 cm high last time went on sale in our country in 1967 for the 50th anniversary of the October Revolution.

Sugar loafs are still on sale in some places. They only weigh a maximum of 250 g and are imported from Germany.

In the store, large heads were chopped or sawn into smaller pieces and sold by weight. Such sugar was called crushed and sawn. Smaller sugar heads were sold whole, and already at home, they were cut with a special cleaver, smaller pieces were chopped, and then they "bit off" the pieces with such sugar tongs.

After that, a large lump of sugar was placed on the palm and hit on it with the butt of a knife.

A huge number of devices were invented and used for splitting sugar heads: from tongs and hatchets, to special gilyatin. Many examples of which are now kept in various sugar museums around the world.

The shape of "sugar heads" in the Middle Ages was used in the manufacture of the transitional form of knight's helmets, which were named just like sugar loaves. And in Crimea, Sugar Loaf Rock is a small coral reef on the outskirts of Sudak. The mountain, which resembles a frozen piece of sugar, was chosen by climbers and filmmakers. It was here that scenes from the film "The Master and Margarita" were filmed. So the use of "sugar heads" in the everyday life of many peoples of the world has also moved to other spheres of people's lives.

The use of crushed lump sugar has become part of the tradition of tea drinking in many nations of the world. So the population of the Frisian islands traditionally put a piece of crushed sugar on the bottom of a cup, pour it over with tea, and add a spoonful of cream on top. In Russia, lump sugar is consumed with a bite with a cup of tea ... But that's a completely different story.

You can buy crushed lump sugar in our store:

-Cane Crushed Sugar ;

When writing the article, materials from the sites were used:

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Gertrud Helgesson from Arlö Sugar Museum and Erik Jørgensen from Nakskov Sugar Museum

Www.dansukker.ru

www.toyota-club.net

www.glaskilian.de

www.p-syutkin.livejournal.com/263071

www.thesugargirls.com