Buddhist temple in the Perm region. Shad-tchup-ling Buddhist monastery in the Urals, on Kachkanar mountain. Snow stupas

This is a lift for goods and building materials from the steepest section of the trail:

On the trail in good weather yes on weekends there are always pilgrims, curious and just tourists passing through the monastery insofar as.

on the right in the hole - hens with chickens

Solar panels hang here and there on the walls. There is a bathhouse, they will also offer to take a steam bath in it, if it is ready.

Water is taken from two clean lakes under the stones. It is a rarity and value at the top of the mountain.

Here is drinking

And here - for household needs:

an impromptu aqueduct pipeline is visible. Everything is thought out and convenient.

Vegetable garden: We went to him for the first time

So extra rocks are crumbled here - they heat up and beat with a sledgehammer

They will not tear the monastery down for a quarry in the near future - either the economic crisis is to blame, or this is the way things are.

Pleasant and unusual place, it is appropriate here whether you are a Buddhist or just a good person. I am glad to be here again.

Coordinates: 58 ° 46'37 ″ s. NS. 59 ° 23'13 "in. etc. /  58.77694 ° N NS. 59.38694 ° E etc./ 58.77694; 59.38694(G) (I)

History

Foundation of the monastery

Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit, aka Mikhail Sannikov, got acquainted with Buddhism in the late 1980s in Afghanistan, where he, a career officer, commander of a special unit, saw the monuments of Buddhist civilization that flourished there before the arrival of Muslims on the mountain passes. After the end of the Afghan war, Sannikov retired from the army, went to Buryatia, to the Ivolginsky datsan, becoming a student of Darma-Dodi Zhalsaraev.

On May 15, 1995, Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit began construction of a Buddhist monastery on Mount Kachkanar. A place for her was shown to him by his teacher.

For 20 years, Shad Tchup Ling has become one of the largest centers for the study of Buddhism in Russia and just a tourist attraction that attracts thousands of tourists.

Territory trial

Members of the community have tried many times to legalize the buildings, but the rights to the land were claimed by the mining and processing plant, whose quarries are located nearby, and the forestry department.

February 9 on the website of the Office Federal Service bailiffs in the Sverdlovsk region have received information about the upcoming demolition of the "Buddhist monastery" on Mount Kachkanar. The work of life and the fruits of the incredible stubbornness of Mikhail Sannikov and hundreds of people who helped him during these years may go to dust, and “Buddhist stupas fascinating imagination among Ural mountains"- to disappear.

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Excerpt from Shad Tchup Ling

- The Karagins, Julie and Boris are with them. Now you can see the bride and groom. - Drubetskoy made an offer!
“How did I find out today,” said Shinshin, who was entering the Rostovs' box.
Natasha looked in the direction in which her father was looking, and saw Julie, who with pearls on her thick red neck (Natasha knew, sprinkled with powder) was sitting with a happy look, next to her mother.
Behind them with a smile, with an ear bent over Julie's mouth, could be seen the smoothly combed, beautiful head of Boris. He looked at the Rostovs from under his brows and said something to his bride with a smile.
"They talk about us, about me with him!" thought Natasha. “And he surely soothes his fiance's jealousy of me: they needlessly worry! If only they knew how I don't care about any of them. "
Behind was sitting in a green current, with a devoted to the will of God and a happy, festive face, Anna Mikhailovna. In their box there was that atmosphere - the groom and the bride, whom Natasha knew and loved so much. She turned away and suddenly everything that was humiliating in her morning visit came to her mind.
“What right does he have not to want to accept me into his kinship? Ah, it's better not to think about it, not to think about it before his arrival! " she said to herself and began to look around the familiar and unfamiliar faces in the stalls. In front of the parterre, in the very middle, with his back to the ramp, stood Dolokhov with a huge, combed up shock of curly hair, in a Persian suit. He stood in the very sight of the theater, knowing that he attracted the attention of the entire hall, as freely as if he were standing in his room. The most brilliant youth of Moscow stood around him, and he apparently took the lead among them.
Count Ilya Andreevich, laughing, pushed the blushing Sonya, pointing to her former adorer.
- Did you find out? - he asked. - And where did he come from, - the count turned to Shinshin, - he disappeared somewhere?
- Lost, - answered Shinshin. - I was in the Caucasus, and there I fled, and, they say, some sovereign prince was a minister in Persia, he killed Shakhov's brother there: well, all the Moscow ladies are going crazy! Dolochoff le Persan, [Persianin Dolokhov,] and it's over. We now have no word without Dolokhov: they swear to him, they call him like a sterlet, - said Shinshin. - Dolokhov, yes Kuragin Anatol - all our ladies were driven crazy.
A tall, beautiful lady with a huge braid and very bare, white, full shoulders and a neck on which there was a double string of large pearls entered the neighboring benoir, and sat down for a long time, rustling with her thick silk dress.
Natasha involuntarily looked into this neck, shoulders, pearls, hairdo and admired the beauty of the shoulders and pearls. While Natasha was peering at her for the second time, the lady looked round and, meeting her eyes with Count Ilya Andreich, nodded her head and smiled. It was Countess Bezukhova, Pierre's wife. Ilya Andreevich, who knew everyone in the world, bent over and spoke to her.
“Have you come long ago, Countess?” He said. - I’ll come, I’ll come, kiss the handle. But I came here on business and brought my girls with me. They say that Semyonova plays incomparably, - said Ilya Andreevich. - Count Pyotr Kirillovich never forgot us. He's here?
“Yes, he wanted to come in,” Helene said and looked attentively at Natasha.
Count Ilya Andreich again sat down in his place.
- Isn't it good? He said to Natasha in a whisper.
- Miracle! - said Natasha, - you can fall in love! At this time, the last chords of the overture sounded and the bandmaster's wand rattled. In the stalls, belated men marched into their seats and the curtain went up.
As soon as the curtain rose, everything fell silent in the boxes and the stalls, and all the men, old and young, in uniforms and tailcoats, all women in precious stones on their naked bodies, with eager curiosity turned their attention to the stage. Natasha also began to watch.

On the stage there were even boards in the middle, on the sides there were painted paintings depicting trees, behind there was a canvas stretched on the boards. In the middle of the stage were girls in red bodices and white skirts. One, very fat, in a white silk dress, sat apart on a low bench, to which a green cardboard was glued behind. They all sang something. When they finished their song, the girl in white approached the prompter's booth, and a man in silk, tight-fitting trousers with thick legs, with a feather and a dagger approached her and began to sing and spread his arms.
A man in covered pantaloons sang one, then she sang. Then both fell silent, music began to play, and the man began to touch the hand of the girl in a white dress with his fingers, obviously waiting for a beat again to begin his part with her. They sang together, and everyone in the theater began to clap and shout, and the man and woman on the stage, who portrayed lovers, began to bow, smiling and spreading their arms.

And here again the restless head and walking legs again carried me through the lands of the Fatherland. My daughter, eighteen years old, and my friend Denis, volunteered to go with me. Our path this time was already a little further than usual - although it is rich Perm Territory to the sights, but they also come to an end sometime. No, of course, you can watch a lot of other things, but here priorities and Wishlist come into play. And they gravitate more and more to large spaces and mountains. In a word - to the scale.

This time was picked to the side Sverdlovsk region : almost on the border with Perm Territory there is Kachkanar city... He is glorious Kachkanar mining and processing plant (holding "Evraz"), which in its vicinity is mining titanomagnetite ore.

View of the monastery from the height of the northern peak of the mountain

What can be seen in Kachkanar
and on the way to it?

The bulk of the sights are concentrated in the area of ​​the same name the mountains: actually the mountain itself with its rocks at the top, a mountain lake at the place of stone mining, Buddhist monastery and stele to Gagarin... At the foot of the mountain, on the way to the top, located Western quarry of Kachkanarsky GOK... Also if you go to the side Perm Territory, then 40 kilometers from Kachkanara can be visited mountain.

But more on everything below. Since there was a lot of photographic material, then, with all my desire, I could not shove in something unproductive and without loss show all these objects in one report. Therefore, there will be three parts - one about the monastery, and the second about other sights. Kachkanara, well, the third is about Mount Caps.

How to get there?

Get to Kachkanara not difficult - Kachkanar located 280 km from Perm and 260 from Yekaterinburg... Didn't check the road from Ekata but from Perm the road is quite, albeit very winding.

GPS coordinates

58.77678, 59.38694

Shad Tchup Ling monastery on the map

How to climb to the top?

We have chosen a longer route - from Western quarry... The reason for this is simple - only walking this path can you see yourself Western quarry.

To get to the starting point of this route, you need to drive through the city, turn in the direction Western Career, cross the dam and soon you will see the company's checkpoint Evraz... Feel free to leave the car there, turn into the undergrowth on the left and go around the checkpoint. After that, you can safely go out again on the road to continue the path without any shuddering. The road is flat and carefully smoothed by graders. After about 2.5 kilometers you will reach a fork - on the right there will be an observation deck with views of the quarry, and the road to the monastery turns to the left. On this road, you need to go for about 4 km without turning anywhere until the fork with a tree decorated with ribbons. There will be a road to the right to the monastery, and straight ahead - to mountain lake and rock camel.

For those who do not want to trample on white feet, I can offer a life hack how to shorten the walking distance by 6-7 kilometers. Find out at the reception of KGOK the phone number of the pass bureau, contact him and get the necessary passes for the tourist purpose of the visit. I did not check it myself (since it was a day off the day before), but according to reports the method works. In a four-wheel drive vehicle with normal ground clearance, you can reach the fork with a "ribbon" tree - in some places, closer to the top, there is still snow on the road.

Buddhist community Shad Tchup Ling

History Shad Tchup Ling(in Tibetan pronunciation "Sheddubling", Tib. bshad sgrub gling; "Place of study and implementation") is directly related to the personality of his lama - Sanye Tenzin Dokshit (Mikhail Sannikov) who at the direction of his teacher Pem Dzhanga (Darma Dodi Zhalsaraeva) in mid-May 1995 arrived at Mount Kachkanar and laid the first stone of the monastery there.

For 22 years of existence on the harsh stones of the mountain, the monastery (a small reservation regarding this below) under the leadership Llamas Dokshit gradually built up. Its current state is far from admirable - it is striking that despite the heroic efforts of the followers, the lack of resources affects literally everything and the construction is moving very slowly. However, over the past year, the monks have erected a number of important objects, including a large statue of buddha... As far as I understand, in order for the community to have the right to be called a monastery, it must build 8 stupas - half have already been created, and the rest of the monks intend to finish in 2017.

To support the community, good form when visiting her, there will be building materials or food... To find out the most relevant things, it is better to call the community phone in advance and ask the guest on duty for information. Nobody obliges to anything, but just keep in mind that you are just a curious guest within these walls. We took with us a drill for a hammer drill and sweets for tea.

In addition to tourists, the community is also hospitable to pilgrims, detailed information you can get it .

In my opinion, the monastery looks most beautiful in winter, when the wind and frost cover everything in a thick layer of frost. However, in order to see all this splendor, you will have to work hard - the many kilometers path uphill on skis is thorny.

Why go so far and climb so high?


Guests of the community on the outskirts of the summit are greeted by a kurumnik
The most famous Buddhist prayer is Om mani padme hum

To get to the monastery you need to go through the main gate.

The doors of the gate have colorful painting. Winds, humidity and cold are pretty merciless even for modern acrylic paints.


Symbiosis of stone and spirit. In such harsh conditions, every natural shelter is used.
Mortar
The guest on duty conducts an excursion for tourists
Mortar
In the loopholes of the rocks you can see the vastness of the Ural Parma
The courtyard of the monastery
After the excursion, we were invited to drink tea, and the child also took on help in making tablets with mantras
The day was a success - towards evening the clouds parted and we enjoyed the picturesque rays of the sun


At the foot of the cliff, the monks take water
Main Buddha statue

Video

A small video from the series "what a fucking thing" - don't pay attention to my scratched face - I was in such a hurry to get ready the day before that I drove headlong into the box while loading the shmurdyak.

What to see nearby?

Stay on the line - there are two more promised notes ahead: about herself and Mount Caps.

Looking through the guide to the Urals, I mentally planned my trips around the region, marking the most interesting places and routes on the map. One of these places is Mount Kachkanar, located in the North of the Sverdlovsk Region and is one of the highest peaks Of the Middle Urals.The Buddhist monastery Shad Tchup Ling is located on the mountain. It is the only Buddhist datsan in the Urals. Googling on the Internet, I found out that the monastery has its own group in contact http://vk.com/shad_tchup_ling... I phoned the monastery to arrange my visit. Got the approval of the Chief Lama Dokshit, me allowed to visit the monastery and stay overnight. MOnah asked by phone to bring some products and told in detail how to get to them.

Having collected my backpack, early in the morning I went to Shad Tchup Ling.

The route of my journey began from the city of Verkhniy Tagil, by car I reached the city of Kachkanar. Townwas founded to ensure the development of a group of Kachkanar fields. From the moment the decision was made to build and to this day, the city is inextricably linked with the mining and processing plant. The construction of the GOK and the city began in 1957 and was declared a shock Komsomol construction site.



From the city of Kachkanar I went to the checkpoint of the Western quarry, this is the end point of the movement by car, further there was a pedestrian ascent up the mountain.


After about 2 km of climbing the mountain, I went to observation deck Western quarry. Its development has begun back in the 30s and 40s. All mined ore from the open pit is transported tomining and processing plant (GOK) "Kachkanarsky", located nearby, mThe processing capacity of which is 33 million tons of iron ore per year.Kachkanarsky GOK is the largest mining and processing plant in Russia.






On the trail, traces of sledges are noticeable: there are dogs in the monastery, on which novices lift food and various loads up the hill.





There is a sign on the path. Meaning: if you go straight, you will come to the camel rock; if you go to the right, you will come to the monastery. It remains to walk 1 km from this sign to the monastery.











Now about how a monastery appeared on Mount Kachkanar.
Lama Dokshit (means protector) is a former military man, I will talk about him a little later. His teacher, Darma Dodi Zhalsaraev, lived in Buryatia. One day the teacher dreamed beautiful monastery on a mountain called Kachkanar. In the morning he called Lama Dokshit and told about his dream. They started looking for a mountain with that name and found it 5500 kilometers from Buryatia in the very center of the Urals. There Lama Dokshit began to build a monastery in 1995. WITHthe construction of the monastery according to the construction plan is calculated for 300 years.



The construction is carried out according to the ancient Tibetan and Mongolian canons of monastery architecture, which allows preserving the ecosystem of the area and harmoniously fitting the complex of structures into the picturesque landscape of Mount Kachkanar.The main function of the monastery is to organize and support the Buddhist practical process: conducting rituals, services, traditional festive events, individual and collective practices.

This year, solar panels were installed in the monastery, thanks to which internal lighting appeared in all buildings, the ability to charge phones and a laptop.




Now the monastery is home to four novices, not counting the Lama, who are practicing, doing housework and fulfilling various vows. Someone has been living for 12 years, someone came a month ago.

Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit in the world Mikhail Vasilyevich Sannikov is a very kind, open-minded person with a subtle sense of humor. You can talk with him on any topic, I even got the impression that he knows the answer to any question. Lama Dokshit is constantly visited by different people, of various levels of wealth and class. Ordinary tourists come in for the sake of curiosity, advanced Buddhists and Yoga Gurus come to practice in the monastery. Many come just to chat, talk about life, get experience. He does not impose his opinion on anyone, does not preach and teach religion, as various preachers of different religions do.

I will tell you a little about the life in the monastery. A duty officer is appointed every day. He wakes up before everyone else, lights the stove, prepares food and clears the table.



Teapots with hot tea are constantly on the stove. Teapots are insulated with caps to keep them warm longer. In whites - black tea, in the rest - green. In such frosts, tea helps to warm up, they drink it here all the time and treat all guests. Lama Dokshit jokes that "our water is magical." All jokes, but the water is really delicious, despite the fact that p there is no uchya or source on the mountain. In the summer, the guys collect rainwater, in the winter they raise it from a special pit-well.


The altar is located in a separate room. To venerate the Body of Buddha, images (thangka) of the Buddha statue are installed on the altar.



Eight cups for presenting a gift, water is poured into them in the morning, poured out in the evening. In some cups rice is poured, it is also used as an offering.


On the left on the altar are sacred texts - this is the speech of the Buddha, the teaching through which sentient beings attain Enlightenment. Therefore, they are considered the most sacred object on the altar.


Various ritual accessories.



In the morning, I went for a walk around the monastery, to admire the winter beauty of the Kachkanar mountain.



An interesting rock called "Camel" really does have a similarity.





It's time to go back home, I say goodbye to Lama Doksha and his disciples. Thank you for the hospitality, for the magic tea and interesting communication.

If you are going to visit the monastery, do not forget to take gifts with you - building materials, polyurethane foam, any products, etc. It is better to call or write in advance by contacting the monastery to inquire about current needs.

The only Buddhist monastery in the Urals is located on Mount Kachkanar on the border of the Perm Territory and the Sverdlovsk Region.

The history of Buddhism in the Urals dates back more than one hundred years, but during the years of the Soviet Union, Buddhism, like many other religions, went underground, and by the time the USSR collapsed, it completely disappeared. Buddhism began to spread again in the Urals only in 1995, when the former military man Mikhail Sannikov was trained in Buddhist culture in Buryatia and Mongolia, receiving a new name there Sanye Tendzin Dokshit, and decided to start building the Shad Tchup Ling monastery and a complex of sacred stupas on Mount Kachkanar with donations. ... The name in translation means “place of practice and realization”.


Today, about 10 novices and the lama himself live in the monastery. In addition, people constantly come to it to help in the construction of the monastery and simply to live in nature or in meditation for several days.

So far, the monastery cannot be called full-fledged - it is still in the active phase of construction, and there is no division into male and female premises, as well as there is no separate room for the laity - although according to the canons this should be. To obtain the status of a "monastery", it is necessary that four fully ordained monks live in it permanently, whereas today there is only one such in the monastery - Lama Dokshit, but novices also constantly study and go to study at.


You can get to the monastery from the village of Kosya, which is located at the foot of the mountain. Previously, guests climbed a short path near a quarry owned by the international mining company Evraz, but now the company has completely bought the entire territory of the mountain, closed access and installed a checkpoint. The monastery is negotiating with the authorities and the management of the company to be allowed to stay, but so far this has not led to anything. Therefore, the ascent comes from the side of the village. But if you nevertheless decided to climb through the checkpoint, then we advise you to go around the booth through the forest. But then you climb a fairly short road and you can look at a huge quarry.

When climbing the trail from the village of Kosya, there is one unspoken rule - somewhere in the middle of the ascent there is a huge pile of boards. You will be very grateful if everyone takes one board upstairs with them - because the monastery is constantly being built. The large guest / dining room has recently been completed.

The origin of the pile of planks in the middle of the forest is another story. Several years ago, the territory of Mount Kachkanar was also chosen by the Russian Orthodox Church, which decided to build its own church 100 meters from the monastery. But this idea turned out to be unrealizable - the regional authorities supported the monastery, that it was the first to occupy this territory, and when the builders found out that they would have to lift heaps of boards on themselves (there is practically no road there - only a trail or in winter on a snowmobile), they threw the boards in the middle of the forest and left.


The monastery has everything that its inhabitants need for a normal life - from an electric generator and stoves for the winter, to sled dogs, goats and snowmobiles. But all the same, before coming to them, it is best to write in