The new status of cities of science in the XXI century
A.A. AGIRRECHU
Cand. geogr. Sci., Researcher
Department of Economic and Social Geography
Russian Faculty of Geography
Moscow State University M.V. Lomonosov
When studying the course "Geography of Russia" in the 9th grade, the topic "Urbanization" examines the functional types of cities in Russia. A special place in this typology belongs to the cities of science, or science cities.
This year marks the 15th anniversary of the beginning of the science city movement in Russia and the 10th anniversary of the establishment of the non-profit partnership "Union for the Development of Science Cities of Russia". For our society, the issue of preserving and further development scientific and technical potential of the country.
The Science City movement was formed to promote the unification of local self-government bodies of cities with a high concentration of intellectual, scientific and technical potential to ensure sustainable development, to realize their potential as points of growth of the Russian economy.
The list of settlements that are traditionally referred to as centers of science (science cities, although not all of them have the official status of the city "kind), today includes 75 points located in various regions of the country. About half of them are located in Central Russia, including 31 settlements on territory Moscow region(including Zelenograd, which is de jure part of Moscow).
One of the important results of the work of the Union for the Development of Science Cities is the preparation of a federal law "On the status of a science city in the Russian Federation." The law was adopted in 1999. In accordance with it, a science city is a municipal entity with a high scientific and technical potential, with a city-forming scientific and production complex: a set of organizations carrying out scientific, scientific, technical and innovative activities, experimental development, testing, training personnel in accordance with the state priority directions of the development of science, technology and technology of the Russian Federation.
A city-forming research and production complex must meet the following criteria:
1) the number of employees in the organizations of the research and production complex must be at least 15% of the number of employees in the territory of the given municipality;
2) the volume of scientific and technical products (corresponding to the priority areas of development of science, technology and technology of the Russian Federation) in value terms must be at least half of the total volume of products of all economic entities located on the territory of the given municipality, or the cost of fixed assets of the complex actually used in the production of scientific and technical products, is at least 50% of the cost of actually used fixed assets of all economic entities located on the territory of the municipality, with the exception of the housing and communal and social sphere.
Over the 8 years that have passed since the entry into force of the law, 12 cities and towns of the country have received the status of "Science City of the Russian Federation"; more than half of them are located on the territory of the Moscow region, the rest (one at a time) - in the Altai Territory, in the Kaluga, Novosibirsk, Tambov regions and on the territory of St. Petersburg. The first seven science cities (until 2003) were granted the status by presidential decree for a period of 25 years, and the rest (in accordance with the amendments made to the law in August 2004), the status was assigned for 5 years by a decree of the Government of the Russian Federation.
Settlements with the status of "Science City Russian Federation»
as of September 2007
| Science city | The subject of the Russian Federation | Year of status assignment | Population, thousand people on 01.01.2007 |
| Biysk | Altai region | 2005 | 223,0 |
| Obninsk | Kaluga region | 2000 | 105,4 |
| Dubna | Moscow region | 2001 | 61,9 |
| Zhukovsky | Moscow region | 2007 | 102,0 |
| Korolev | Moscow region | 2001 | 173,6 |
| Pushchino | Moscow region | 2005 | 20,0 |
| Reutov | Moscow region | 2003 | 81,1 |
| Moscow region | 2007 | 35,6 | |
| Fryazino | Moscow region | 2003 | 52,4 |
| Koltsovo | Novosibirsk region | 2003 | 9,7 |
| Michurinsk | Tambov region | 2003 | 90,9 |
| Peterhof | St. Petersburg | 2005 | 115,8* |
* Indicated is the population size of the Petrodvorets district of St. Petersburg.
The first to receive the status Obninsk(2000), located in the north-east of the Kaluga region, 120 km south-west of Moscow. In the very first legislative acts (1997 and 1998), where the concept of “science city” was introduced for the first time at the state level, it was decided to conduct an experiment in Obninsk to work out the mechanisms for the transition of science cities to non-subsidized development.
Obninsk is the birthplace of the Soviet nuclear power industry. Here, at the Physics and Power Engineering Institute (IPPE), more than half a century ago, the world's first nuclear power plant was opened, until recently, along with scientific research, it provided electricity to the city. By the beginning of the 90s, a multidisciplinary scientific and technological center was formed in Obninsk, uniting 13 research institutes: 2 State Research Centers of the Russian Federation (IPPE and Obninsk Research and Production Enterprise "Technology"), NPO Typhoon (hydrometeorology and environmental control), Medical Radiological Scientific Center of the Russian Academy of Medical Sciences, a branch of the Scientific Research Institute of Physics and Chemistry. L. Ya. Karpov and others. Personnel training and retraining is carried out at the Obninsk Institute of Atomic Energy (formerly a branch of the Moscow Engineering Physics Institute), the Central Institute for Advanced Studies of the Federal Atomic Energy Agency, the Franco-Russian Institute of Business Administration and other higher and secondary specialized educational institutions.
In 2001, the status of "Science City of the Russian Federation" was awarded Korolev- one of the first cities of science in the USSR, recognized throughout the world as the "space capital" of the country. It emerged as a center for innovative development in the second half of the 40s, when the NII-88 (since 1967 - the Central Research Institute of Mechanical Engineering), created in the village of Podlipki, became the leading research, design, production and test center for the development of missiles with liquid engines. Among the departments of his Special Design Bureau was the Special Design Bureau, headed by S.P. Korolev and is engaged in the development of long-range guided ballistic missiles. Later it emerged as an independent organization, which in 1974 was transformed into the scientific and production association Energia (now the SP Korolev Rocket and Space Corporation Energia).
In different periods of activity of the Central Research Institute of Mechanical Engineering during the 50s and 70s, all the main town-forming enterprises of the city of Korolev also emerged from it, the main activities of which are related to space programs: the Design Bureau of Chemical Engineering named after V.I. A.M. Isaeva (creation and development of liquid-propellant rocket engines and propulsion systems), NPO measuring technology (development and production of sensor and conversion equipment for rocket and space technology and practically for all sectors of the national economy), NPO Kompozit (analysis, determination of prospects and applicability of materials in products of rocket and space technology, the creation of new materials for launch vehicles).
The Central Research Institute of Mechanical Engineering includes the world-famous Mission Control Center - a research organization that carries out practical flight control of orbital stations, manned transport ships, automatic cargo ships, etc.
Another city-forming enterprise in the city of Korolev is the State Research and Production Center "Zvezda-Strela", founded in 1942, is the parent organization of Russian enterprises for the development and production of aviation, sea and combined arms tactical and cruise missiles.
In the same 2001, the status of "Science City of the Russian Federation" received Dubna located in the north of the Moscow region. There is no other scientific center in our country that would have such wide international fame as the Joint Institute for Nuclear Research (JINR) located here has. Dubna is the only city in the world whose name is reflected in the periodic table of D.I. Mendeleev: JINR scientists discovered the 105th element of the periodic table, which is named after the city.
The main city-forming organizations of Dubna, in addition to JINR, are the machine-building enterprises Dubna Machine-Building Plant and the "Raduga" Design Bureau, engaged in the development and production of aircraft (including seaplanes). In addition, the city has an instrument-making plant "Tenzor", specializing in the production of devices for nuclear power, the Scientific Research Institute "Atoll", engaged in the development of offshore systems for collecting, transmitting and processing information, and other scientific and industrial organizations that play an essential role. in the innovative development of the country.
At the beginning of 2003, the status of "Science City of the Russian Federation" was awarded urban-type settlement Koltsovo in the Novosibirsk region. This is the only settlement that has the official status of a science city, but is not a city at the same time. The settlement arose in the late 70s on the basis of the All-Russian Research Institute of Molecular Biology. Now it houses the NPO "Vector" - a large scientific center of virology and biotechnology, which creates the latest drugs and medicines for the needs of health and veterinary medicine.
In the same 2003, the status was received Michurinsk Tambov region, the only agricultural science city, the all-Russian center of horticulture. The ancient city of Kozlov, founded in the 17th century, was renamed in 1932 in honor of the scientist-breeder I.V. Michurin, who created a breeding nursery here, known today as the Central Genetic Laboratory. Along with it, there are such research organizations in the city as the Research Institute of Fruit Growing, the Fruit and Vegetable Institute.
them. Michurina and others. Michurinsk is also a large industrial city of the region (second after Tambov): enterprises of mechanical engineering, food and light industries.
At the end of 2003, two more towns near Moscow - Reutov and Fryazino - received the status of "Science City of the Russian Federation".
In 1955 in Reutov the Experimental Design Bureau (OKB-52) was transferred from Tushino, which, under the leadership of V.N. Chelomeya since 1944 was engaged in the creation of unmanned aerial vehicles. A year after the move, the company began work on the creation of homing cruise missiles designed to selectively engage sea targets beyond the radar horizon, as well as underwater cruise missiles. Since 1983, the company has been modern name- NPO mechanical engineering; in 1996 it was awarded the status of the Federal Research and Production Center (FSPC). This status is assigned only to enterprises and organizations of the defense, rocket-space and nuclear industries that fulfill the state order and are the main developers and manufacturers of the most important types of weapons, military and space technology, as well as components for them.
Fryazino- the second (after Zelenograd) city of electronics in the Moscow region and in the country, one of the oldest cities in science. Its development began in 1933, when the Radiolampa plant was created on the basis of the buildings of the old silk-weaving factory, which provides the country with communication stations and various control devices for radio tubes. In 1943, Fryazino became a research center with the country's first research institute of electrovacuum devices for radar stations with an experimental plant (now the State Research and Production Enterprise "Istok"), the founder of a number of large enterprises in the electronic industry. Its personnel and technologies became the basis on the basis of which the leading enterprises of the industry were organized both in Fryazino itself (Scientific Research Institute "Platan" - a scientific center for the development of information display devices, created in 1964), and in other cities of the country. Another scientific whale of Fryazin is a branch of the Moscow Institute of Radio Engineering and Electronics of the Russian Academy of Sciences, a center for fundamental and applied research in the field of electronics, radio wave propagation, radar, biology, and optoelectronics.
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Science city Peterhof (Petrodvorets district St. Petersburg, to the west from the city center). The memorial sign is already there |
The most unusual among the settlements that received the status of "Science City of the Russian Federation" in 2005 (the first after the change in legislation) is Peterhof, because legally it is the Petrodvortsovy district of St. Petersburg. The world-famous city-museum has joined the family of science cities thanks to the presence on its territory of a large complex of faculties and research institutes of St. Petersburg State University, which are engaged in innovative activities. The following departments of the university function in Peterhof: Institute of Physics, Institute of Chemistry, Research Institute of Computational Mathematics and Control Processes, Research Institute of Radiophysics, Astronomical Institute, Institute of Physiology, Institute of Mathematics and Mechanics, Research Institute of Information Technologies, Research Institute of the Earth's crust. In addition, the Naval Institute of Radio Electronics is located in the city.
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Naukograd Peterhof (Petrodvortsovy district of St. Petersburg, west of the city center). The memorial sign is already there |
The main academic biological center of the Moscow region - Pushchino received the status of "Science City of the Russian Federation" also in 2005. In 1956, on the initiative of the President of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR, Academician A.N. Nesmeyanov, it was decided to create in the area of the village of Pushchino, located on the banks of the river. Oki not far from the city of Serpukhov, an academic scientific town. In 1957, a radio astronomy observatory of the P.I. P.N. Lebedev for the study of the planets of the solar system and the interplanetary medium. Two years later, the construction of a complex of buildings and structures of the Institute of Biological Physics began in the village, on the basis of which the Scientific Center for Biological Research of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR was established in 1963 (since 1991 - the Pushchino Scientific Center of the Russian Academy of Sciences), which determines the person modern city... The center includes the Institute of Fundamental Problems of Biology, the Institute of Cell Biophysics, the Institute of Protein, the Institute of Biochemistry and Physiology of Microorganisms and other research institutions of the Russian Academy of Sciences. The educational function of the science city is represented by the Pushchino State University and the branch of the Moscow State University. M.V. Lomonosov.
At the end of 2005, another Siberian city became the tenth "status" science city - Biysk, located in the Altai Territory, at the confluence of the Biya and Katun rivers in the r. Ob, at the beginning of the Chuisky tract - the main road to Gorny Altai. It is one of the largest cities of science in Russia in terms of population and the largest of those that have received the official status of a science city (no joke: more than 200 thousand inhabitants). The city specializes in scientific and research and production developments in the field of chemistry, chemical physics and new materials. The main organizations and enterprises of the science city are the Institute for Problems of Chemical and Energy Technologies of the SB RAS, the Biysk Oleum Plant producing oleum and lacquer paint, the Altai Federal Research and Production Center associated with the development and production of explosives, the well-known pharmaceutical company Altayvitamins. The Biysk State Technological Institute is of great importance in the scientific and industrial complex of the city.
At the beginning of 2007, two more cities of the Moscow Region received the status of science cities - Troitsk and Zhukovsky.
Formation as a scientific center began in 1938 in connection with the construction of the Moscow Geophysical Laboratory, on the basis of which the Institute of Terrestrial Magnetism, Ionosphere and Radio Wave Propagation of the USSR Academy of Sciences (IZMIRAN) was established in 1944. By 1964, the village of Troitsky grew into Akademgorodok, where, in addition to IZMIRAN, the construction of buildings and structures for the Institute of High Pressure Physics named after V.I. Vereshchagin, Institute of Spectroscopy, Magnetic Laboratory of the Institute of Atomic Energy named after Kurchatov. In 1966, at the direction of the Presidium of the USSR Academy of Sciences, the complex of research institutes and other scientific institutions of the USSR Academy of Sciences, located not far from Krasnaya Pakhra, later became known as the "Scientific Center of the USSR Academy of Sciences in Krasnaya Pakhra". Currently, there are 10 research institutes in the city, including the State Scientific Center of the Russian Federation - Troitsk Institute for Innovative and Fusion Research, which began its development with the organization in 1956 of the Magnetic Laboratory of the USSR Academy of Sciences, which five years later was included in the Institute of Atomic Energy named after ... I.V. Kurchatov. In 1991 the institute received its modern name and independent status.
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Zhukovsky is the leader of the domestic aircraft industry, largest center Russia for the design and testing of aircraft. It houses two state research centers - the Central Aerohydrodynamic Institute named after V.I. NOT. Zhukovsky (TsAGI) and the Flight Research Institute. MM. Gromova (LII). It was with the construction of the new TsAGI complex and the creation of the LII test airfield in the mid-30s that the history of this science city began. In addition, there are located the Research Institute of Instrumentation. V.V. Tikhomirov, Research Institute of Aviation Equipment, Experimental Machine-Building Plant. V.M. Myasishchev, flight test and development bases of the OKB im. ON. Sukhoi, Aviation Complex. S.V. Ilyushin, OKB im. A.S. Yakovlev, Moscow Aviation Production Association "MiG", Aviation Scientific and Technical Complex named after A.N. Tupolev, as well as about 100 enterprises engaged in the innovation and technical sphere. In recent years, Zhukovsky has become a key center international aviation: every two years, it hosts the International Aviation and Space Salon (MAKS). The educational function of the city is related to the training of personnel for the aviation industry: there are separate faculties of the Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology and the Moscow Aviation Institute, a branch of the Moscow Institute of Electronic Technology.
Thus, in Russia at the beginning of the XXI century. a new category of settlements has been formed, associated with the innovative and scientific and technological development of our country. The number of science cities, of course, will not be limited to these centers. The process of preparing documents for assigning an official status to other really existing science cities is continuing.
State support for predominantly single-industry cities specializing in priority areas of development of science, technology and technology is one of the most important conditions for Russia's competitiveness in the world economy.
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When the number was typed, the procedure of approving documents for assigning the status of a science city to three more cities of the Moscow region continued - Protvino, Chernogolovka and Dolgoprudny. Corresponding work has begun in Severodvinsk (Arkhangelsk region) and other points.
For more information about the entire set of science cities, see: A.A. Agirrechu. Science cities of Russia // Geography, No. 24/2001. S. 11-22.
For more information about the city of Obninsk see: N.Yu. Zamyatin. Obninsk: the atom of the city // Geography,
No. 25-26 / 2004. S. 3-10.
For more information about Dubna see: A.A. Agirrechu. Science city Dubna - the northern outpost of the Moscow region // Geography, No. 29/2004. S. 3-10.
State science and technology policy implies active involvement in innovation processes of a number of institutions, which to one degree or another form the backbone of the national innovation system (NIS). However, when understanding science cities as a phenomenon and subjects of NIS, a reasonable question arises: how promising are they for the future of our country? It is important to understand whether the science cities of Russia will be viable, and will they be able to cope with the historical challenge of a global scale in the growing world processes? What is the role of strategists on a national scale for cities of science?
Brief historical background
ZATOs arose during the nuclear project of the 40s - 50s. Scientists of Laboratory No. 2, who had been engaged in nuclear research since 1943, moved to one of these settlements (the city of Obninsk) in 1946. They were joined by scientists and the best physicists from the leading universities of the USSR who had been taken out of Germany. The result of work on this site was the launch of the first nuclear power plant in 1954. The laboratory was transformed into the Institute of Physics and Power Engineering, where not only fundamental science was developed, but also extensive applied research was actively carried out.
In the work on weapons of mass destruction in the country, the number of such sites began to grow - closed administrative-territorial formations (ZATO). Specialization was based on R&D in the fields of physics, chemistry, biology, rocketry and aviation. The most complex projects were implemented. The settlement form of organizing such formations was suitable for solving the problems of a scientific breakthrough and better ensured a security regime.
Photo of the entrance to the Physics and Power Engineering Institute, Obninsk. Source: obninsk.press
Gradually, a special status of residents of ZATO cities developed, for which the level of provision and improvement was better. Subordination directly to Moscow and weak horizontal communications formed the specificity of ZATO. The initially inherent conflict between the inhabitants of such cities and the environment further contributed to the development of isolation. From the late 50s to the first half of the 70s, two grandiose projects were mainly implemented: the development of atomic energy and the Soviet space program. This period can be considered the “golden fifteen years” in the history of scientific cities, towns and closed administrative cities.
The future of the cities of science seemed cloudless. But gradually and imperceptibly stagnation began to grow, the thaw gave way to stagnation. The first generation of scientists left, but there was no full-fledged rotation of scientific personnel. In the 1980s, the Communist Party of the Soviet Union was no longer able to generate such powerful tasks as in the middle of the century. New grandiose projects did not arise. Perestroika began, liberal ideas captured the minds, including progressive-minded representatives of the scientific community. However, the sobering up came soon.
With the introduction of the market, the ZATO leaders were convinced that their cities were on the brink of survival. In the early 90s, two important events arose regarding the cities of science in ZATO. Firstly, it became obvious to many that fundamental science, research sites, and the municipal economy of the Closed Administrative Territory simply would not survive without government assistance. So in 1991 the idea of science cities and their targeted financial support arose. The authors of this idea are considered to be S.P. Nikanorov and N.K. Nikitin (the city of Zhukovsky). Secondly, in 1992, the Law on ZATO No. 3297-1 was issued, which introduced significant tax breaks, transferring these territorial entities into a kind of offshore zones that existed until 2004.
Differences between related concepts in legislation
Immersion in an innovative topic reveals many concepts that are very diverse, close in nature, but differ in content. For example, science cities in history may have a period of activity in the status of a closed city, or may not. It is advisable to find out whether the innovation city belongs to science cities (NG) or not. It is important to clarify how the concepts of an innovative business incubator, a technopark, an innovation platform, an innovation city, NG, ZATO, etc. are related.
According to the Law of the Russian Federation No. 3297-1, ZATO means such an administrative-territorial entity, for which special regimes for the protection of state secrets and the safe functioning of the city, research institutes and enterprises within the ZATO are established. Such regimes are a necessity, since in ZATOs there are organizations associated with the creation, production, storage and disposal of weapons of mass destruction (weapons of mass destruction), radioactive and man-made materials. Both ZATO and Russian science cities have the status of urban districts, but the profile of science cities is not limited only to defense topics.
According to Law No. 70-ФЗ dated 04/07/99 as amended in 2017, science cities, in addition to their municipal status, must have a high scientific and technical potential in combination with a city-forming research and production complex (NPK). Special modes of protection and security are becoming an optional accessory of such cities. As amended by the law, clarified by law No. 100-FZ of 20.04.2015, the composition of the concepts defining NG is expanded, and the composition of the criteria for assigning this status to the city is detailed. The term for granting the status is 15 years.
Quantitative criteria for the status of NG. Source: archive of the TV channel "Russia 24" for September 27, 2017.
Among the criteria for assigning and maintaining the status of NG, the following stand out.
- The presence of a deployed NPK on the territory of the city.
- The strategy of socio-economic development of the city of science was approved, coordinated with the federal executive body responsible for the regulation of scientific and innovative activities.
- The substantive requirements for the city development strategy were met.
- The quantitative parameters of the city's NPK activity specified in the law 100-FZ are observed (see the slide presented above).
- Monitoring of the activities of the Plan for the implementation of the city development strategy confirms the compliance with the criteria and the achievement of the planned results over the past three years.
The concept of innograd, innopolis is not enshrined in legislation. Technoparks and business incubators were defined in the draft Federal Law “On Technoparks in the Sphere of High Technologies” (presented below). Speaking about science cities, many authors put an equal sign between NG and technocities, technopolises, innopolises and even technoparks, which in the latter case testifies to the incorrectness of such a comparison.
Definitions of a technopark and business incubator. Source: Draft Federal Law "On Technoparks in the Sphere of High Technologies"
In fact, such instruments of an innovation economy as an innovation platform, innovation incubators, and technology parks, like NG or the same innovation city, belong to the country's NIS, but they occupy completely different structural niches in it. This fact does not at all exclude the possibility that the city of science can carry several innovation clusters, and it implements the ideas of business incubators and innovation parks.
Below you can see the structure of the NIS RF, in which NG are in the research and development sector, while elements of the type “innovation incubator”, “technopark”, “innovation center”, etc. provide the financial and infrastructural resource of the system. As we can see, ZATOs do not belong to the innovation system in the modern sense, although many of these cities are still at the forefront of scientific development and implementation.
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Composition of traditional NGs in Russia
Most of the science cities of Russia received their status in the process of transformation from the closed city of administrative entities. Answering the question, how many science cities in Russia have the corresponding status, one should pay attention to their specialization, the number of cities, the volume of products manufactured by the scientific and technological complex, including the innovative level. What matters is the quality of the city's socio-economic development strategy, and not just the fact of its existence and a large number of events. Below you will find a geographic diagram and a summary table of 13 official cities that have NG status.
Geographic scheme of NG location. Source: archive of the TV channel "Russia 24" for September 27, 2017.
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Some of the most famous science cities should be characterized. There is the city of Obninsk - the first of the cities of science that emerged in the 1940s. The first nuclear power plant was created in it, the Institute of Nuclear Power Engineering - a branch of MEPhI - operates. However, the scientific sector occupies a relatively small share in the Obninsk municipal formation. A technopark of the same name has been created in the city; one of the elements of the innovation infrastructure is a business incubator that has been operating since 2004. However, it is difficult to call the results of the innovation activity of the city of Obninsk impressive.
The city of Pushchino today is the leading scientific center in Russia in the biological sector, it has an excellent small university with a high level of biology training. The center is compact but well equipped with modern facilities. NG Pushchino is reasonably called a biotechnological innovation cluster. The cluster specializes in the following areas:
- innovations in the field of biotechnology for pharmacology and medicine;
- innovations in food biotechnology in agriculture;
- environmental innovation;
- innovations in industrial biotechnology and chemistry.
The city of Dubna has long been considered a very successful project. However, now this NG is gradually losing its position of a "brain boiler" due to the growth of the city and the erosion of the unique (in the past) scientific environment. The city of Dubna has a university of the same name on its territory. Teachers come from abroad, from Moscow State University and other Moscow universities. Since 2005, a special economic zone has been operating in the city, in which a number of innovative facilities operate, including NPK Beta and NPK Alpha, using the capabilities of the cyclotron complex for the purpose of commercializing innovative products.
There is a small town in Siberia - the working-class settlement of Koltsovo. One of the strongest virological centers in the world is actively developing in it. This NG, which entered the market processes on time, successfully masters modern economic mechanisms and serves innovative tasks. The number of innovative entrepreneurship entities in the city is growing. Municipality managers are competently working on the development of human capital, a favorable environment has been created for innovative business. In Russian reality, Koltsovo has every chance of maintaining the leadership among NG in terms of maximum efficiency in the future. Below are the main statistical data on the socio-economic development of this municipality.
The main indicators of the socio-economic development of oil and gas "Koltsovo" for the period from 2003 to 2016. Assembly of the author.
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Tax deductions from the territory of the Koltsovo oil and gas field.
The Altai mountains, which have glorified the Siberian land throughout the world, are dozens of massifs, ridges, and the highest peaks of the region. It is not for nothing that travelers call Altai the Russian Tibet or the Siberian Alps - they are so similar in grandeur and appearance.
For the indigenous population, the Altai Mountains are direct evidence of the existence of the ancient gods, by whose will these stone giants grew up on the steppe land. It is the romantic image of the mountains that attracts tens of thousands of tourists from abroad, among which you can see artists, photographers and even world-famous scientists.
Stretching for 150 km from east to west, or the Katunskie squirrels, is the highest chain of the Altai mountains. The ridge is a natural watershed for the water areas of the republic's largest rivers - Katun, Argut and Berel. Situated mountain range in the southern part of the Ust-Koksinsky district of the Altai Republic.
The highest point in Siberia, Mount Belukha, is located here, and the average height of the mountains does not fall below 2600 meters. The Katunsky ridge is home to 300 glaciers, with a total area of over 280 km 2. These are the very glaciers that give the source of the Katun and other famous rivers of Altai.
There are several dozen alpine lakes in different parts of the ridge. Talmen, Multinskie lakes, Kucherlinskoe lake and other water bodies are included in the territory of biosphere reserves, wildlife reserves and nature protection zones.
The vegetation of the Katunsky ridge is divided into high-mountain and low-mountain zones. Pines, cedar, Altai larch trees grow here up to 2000 meters above sea level. Lake and river valleys are rich in thickets of berries, wild honeysuckle bushes and mushrooms. Picturesque alpine meadows with dwarf birches and flowers begin from a height of 2200 meters on the Katunskie squirrels.
The fauna of the mountain Katun is rich and varied. Travelers can see in their natural habitat not only Siberian bears, but also ibex, red deer and even the rarest snow leopard.
The highest point of Altai and all of Siberia is a mountain with its legendary two peaks. The eastern peak rises above sea level by 4509 meters, the western one - by 4435 meters. The mountain is considered to be the geographical center of Eurasia - it is almost equal distance from the three oceans.
But for the Altai people Belukha, or, as the ancient inhabitants of these lands called it, Kadyn-Bazhi, is not just a mountain, but a sacred place, which in the old days could not even be looked at without a particular reason. It was believed that an evil demon lives in the ice caves of Belukha, who will punish anyone who tries to climb the mountain without his permission. This is how the Altaians explained the frequent avalanches and rockfalls caused by earthquakes.
Buddhists are sure that somewhere near the top of Belukha there is hidden the entrance to the legendary Shambhala - the mythical land of sages. It was the search for Shambhala that brought Nicholas Roerich here, who painted his famous canvases from life, as well as other artists, photographers, writers and scientists from all over the world.
Belukha did not submit to climbers right away - the first attempts to climb the mountain were made back in XIX century, but due to avalanches and rockfalls, none of the climbers was able to climb to the top. The brothers Mikhail and Boris Tronov became the conquerors. In honor of the discoverers of the summit, one of the glaciers flowing down the western slope was later named.
Since climbing Belukha is possible only as part of an experienced and trained group, most tourists are content with only views of this majestic peak. Fortunately, in good weather even from a great distance, many photographs can be taken against the background of the snow-capped peaks of the mountain.
To the east of Belukha stretches a part of the Katunsky ridge, known as the Delone ridge, and is crowned by the eponymous ridge Delaunay peak... This mountain is considered the third peak of Altai with a height of 4260 meters above sea level. It got its name in honor of Boris Nikolaevich Delone, one of the founding fathers of the Soviet mountaineering school.
Climbing Peak Delaunay is not as popular as climbing Belukha, although in terms of the degree of danger these two mountains are comparable. The ice pyramid, next to Belukha, is surrounded by snow cornices, which, from time to time, become the cause of terrible avalanches.
As in the case of Belukha, most tourists are content with photographs against the background of the mountain, occasionally climbing to the famous Tomsk sites, from where well-equipped groups of professional climbers begin their hikes to Belukha and other Altai peaks.
The former peak of 20 years of October, and now it is the third, and if we count Belukha as two mountains, it is the fourth highest peak of the Altai Mountains. It rises 4178 meters above sea level. The famous Western Plateau pass passes through the top.
The non-political name for the mountain appeared due to the crown-like appearance of the peak, when viewed from the side of Lake Akkem. Most of the guests of the Altai foothills share the views from here to the mountain. And if you are lucky, the Crown of Altai will not be covered by clouds, and it will be possible to see it in all its glory.
Chuyskie squirrels or - the second most popular mountain range of Altai. Its total length is 210 km, on which hundreds of glaciers rest, giving rise to thousands of Altai reservoirs. These Altai mountains are officially divided into two unequal parts - the North Chuisky and South Chuisky ridge.
The length of the Severo-Chuisky ridge is 120 km, and it is much more popular than its southern "neighbor". Some objects can be reached by off-road vehicle, and walking paths to natural attractions can be done even by novice tourists. In total, there are about 300 glaciers on the Severo-Chuisky ridge, several dozen large lakes and many rivers and very small mountain streams.
The South Chuisky ridge is considered less accessible for tourists. The slopes of the mountains are surrounded by rivers and neighboring massifs, so most of the popular sites can only be reached on foot, sometimes wading across the icy rivers.
The mountain is the highest point of the Chuya ridge, rising 4177 meters above sea level. There is a glacier of the same name, a river of the same name and a lake on it. And it is the last reservoir, located at an altitude of 1984 meters above sea level, that attracts the bulk of tourists who want to see mountain peak closer.
Climbing the mountain itself is possible only with a high level of training and at least two experienced guides who are responsible for safety. Every summer, from the side of the lake, you can see equipped climbers going to conquer Maasha-Bashi.
The summit is located in the Kosh-Agach region of the Altai Republic. This is the second highest peak of the Severo-Chuisky ridge, which in the tourist environment is known not so much for mountaineering tours, but for travels to mountain valley, from which a snow-capped peak with a height of 4044 meters is clearly visible.
But the Aktru mountain valley is also known for the oldest mountaineering camp in Altai. Today it is open all year round. In winter, people come here to ski and snowboard. And in the summer you can practice or even learn mountaineering from scratch, or just relax, enjoying the views of the majestic mountain, the ascent of which is only available for experienced climbers.
The highest point of the South Chuisky ridge - Mount Irbistu- this is one of the most difficult to climb peaks of Altai and all Asian mountains, but at the same time - one of the most picturesque mountains in the region. The height above sea level is 3967 meters, and if you have certain skills, you can reach the 3500-meter mark without climbing steep cliffs.
Most often, hikes to Irbistu start from the Tydtuyaryk camping, which is well-known among tourists. From here, walking groups go to the sides of the ridge, cross many fords and stop at observation deck, which was created by nature itself.
The Ukok Plateau, or the Ukok Plateau, is an amazing place, which in most international reference books is indicated as the junction of the borders of China, Mongolia, Kazakhstan and Russia. But not only this is the value of such an area, the nature itself is a key attraction here.
In addition to the plateau peaks of the plateau, there are many other memorable places. Archaeologists from all over the world travel to Ukok to see the most ancient cave paintings, mounds, stone statues standing in the middle of the steppe landscape. Around them, in a chaotic manner, there are several thousand reservoirs - from tiny lakes to deep rivers.
But the most famous landmark found here is the very "Princess of Altai" - the mummy of a young woman, whose body is covered with numerous tattoos. The whole world learned about the find in the 1990s, and now thousands of people come to see the place of the princess's "residence" on the plateau. The mummy itself is now stored in Gorno-Altaysk, and you can see it in National Museum named after Anokhin.
Posted Fri, 27/03/2015 - 08:50 by Cap
Southern Altai is a mountain range in the Southern Altai, the western part of which is located in Kazakhstan, Eastern ridge separates Russia from China. The length is about 125 km. Height up to 3871 m. In the foothills up to an altitude of 1400-1500 m there are steppe landscapes, park larch forests reach heights of 2100-2200 m; subalpine and alpine meadows dominate in the alpine zone. About 180 glaciers (including Adakhinsky - 5 km long, area 19.5 km2). It starts to the west from the Karakoba River, which separates it from the Kalbinsky ridge located even to the west. It runs from west to east. In the east, it ends at the Tavan-Bogdo-Ula massif, with which the Sailyugem ridges (to the east) and the Mongolian Altai (to the south) begin.
Mongolian Altai is a mountain system in Mongolia and China (on the border). It consists of several ridges separated by valleys, stretching for 1000 km from south-east to north-west. The width varies from 150 km to 300 km, the highest point is Mount Munkh-Khairkhan-Ula (4362 m). The tops of the ridges have a plateau-like shape and are covered with glaciers, the total area of which is 830 km². Most of them, including the largest Potanin glacier, are located in the Tavan-Bogdo-Ula massif. The ridges are mainly composed of crystalline schists, porphyries, porphyrites and granites. On the humid slopes of the southwestern side, there are meadows and forests, on the dry northeastern slopes, there are steppes and semi-deserts.
In the north it approaches the highlands of the Altai Republic, in the west and south there are semi-deserts and deserts of Dzungaria and Gobi, and the entire northeastern part of the system is bordered by the semi-deserts of the Great Lakes Basin. In the east of the Mongolian Altai, there is the Alag-Nur depression, which separates it from the lower Gobi Altai (altitude up to 3900 m). Lake Kanas is located at the northwestern end of the ridge.
On the territory of China, the mountains are located in the Altai District in the Ili-Kazakh Autonomous District of the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region of the PRC with the capital in Altai.
Gobi Altai is a mountain system in the south of Mongolia, a southeastern continuation of the Mongolian Altai. The Gobi Altai consists of chains of sub-latitudinal ridges and ridges, separated by dry valleys and hollows and surrounded by inclined plains (beels). The length of the system is over 500 km, the prevailing heights are from 1500 to 3000 m. The highest point is the Barun-Bogdo-Ula peak (3957 m) in the Ikh-Bogdo ridge. The vegetation in the lower zone is desert, in the upper zone it is steppe. The mountains are composed of crystalline schists, granites, sandstones and limestones. The region of the Gobi Altai is highly seismic. In 1957, a catastrophic earthquake of 11-12 points occurred here, noticeable soil vibrations were observed on an area of 5 million km². In 1958, another earthquake occurred in the Gobi Altai, with a magnitude of 10, called the Bayan-Tsagan earthquake.
Steppe Altai is a part of the Ob plateau in the Altai Territory, in the south it gradually turns into the foothills of Altai. The average height is 250-260 m. The Priobskoye plateau rises 50-75 m above the Kulunda depression, the plateau is dissected by wide and deep (40-100 m) hollows, stretching parallel to each other from northeast to southwest. The bottoms of the hollows are filled with sand, the surface of which, under the influence of the wind, has acquired a hilly-ridge character. Modern rivers have laid their valleys in these hollows. The largest of them are Alei, Kasmala and Barnaulka.
In the depression of the Kasmalinskaya belt, there are bitter-salt lakes Bolshoye Gorkoye and Maloye Gorkoye. The climate of the plain is warmer and drier than other zones of the West Siberian Lowland. The average annual temperature on the Priobskoye plateau is +2.5 ° C, the average annual rainfall is 450 mm. Due to the almost flat terrain, it is subject to influences strong winds and air invasions from both the Arctic Ocean and Central Asia. Soils are formed on loesslike loams. Open steppe areas prevail on chernozem soils. In some places, birch groves are found, mainly on dark gray forest soils; Tapered pine forests (under which sod-podzolic soils are formed), swamps and lakes are confined to the hollows of the ancient runoff. Most of the territory of the Priobskoye plateau is plowed up.
Mount Belukha is located in the Ust-Koksinsky region of Gorny Altai. It is the highest point of the Katunsky ridge and the highest point of Siberia. Belukha has two peaks, in the form of irregular pyramids - Eastern (4506 m.) And Western (4435 m.), Between which there is a depression - "Belukha Saddle", 4000 m high. Two peaks of Belukha, together with the Delone and Crown of Altai, they form the Akkem wall, which falls almost vertically down towards the Akkem glacier. 
On the territory of Russia, beyond the Urals, only in Kamchatka there is a peak that exceeds Belukha - Klyuchevskaya Sopka. But this mountain attracts not so much by its height. As climbers say: Belukha is not for records, but for the soul. From it comes some kind of special impact, which is palpable even at a distance from its foot. Having seen for the first time, a person is filled with delight. In the valley of Lake Akkem, at the foot of the Belukha, an atmosphere of openness and brotherhood reigns with everyone nearby, even strangers... What Turistka.ru felt when she visited here in August 2008.
Altaians revere Belukha and consider it sacred mountain... Altai names (Katun peak), Ak-Suru (majestic), Musdutuu (ice mountain. Belukha is not an easy mountain, it is an antenna that receives information from Space, transforms it, and spreads it to the whole Earth. People are prepared, harmonious, in communication with nature, they can “communicate” with the Belukha and “read” from it the information that it carries.The Belukha has a harmonizing effect on a person, increasing his sensitivity and love for nature.
The famous mystic artist, travel artist Nicholas Roerich, who visited Belukha in 1926 during his Central Asian expedition, also noted the unusualness of the space around Belukha. He wrote: “We saw Belukha. It was so clean and clear. Straight Zvenigorod ". The artist felt that there was an energy bridge between Belukha and Everest, like two space antennas. “Altai - Himalayas, two poles, two magnets” - this is how he wrote in his diaries. Roerich made a large number of sketches in the Belukha region. And after visiting Belukha from the southern side, he painted the picture “Belukha”. In 1942, Nikolai Konstantinovich painted the painting "Victory". In the foreground is a warrior in ancient Russian armor who has slain a dragon. On the second - the shining peaks of Belukha. In honor of N.K. Roerich and his family members are named 
The first records about Belukha appeared more than 200 years ago, when the Russian scientist and traveler P.I. Shangin, in his expedition across Altai, having visited the Uimon Valley, recorded stories about the Belukha of hunters and prospectors.
Belukha was reached for the first time in 1835 by Gebler Friedrich Vilgelmovich, a well-known scientist and researcher in Altai, doctor of the Kolyvan-Voskresensk factories. In order to collect and study medicinal plants, he traveled a lot across Altai and in 1836, striving for the source of the Katun, he approached the Belukha from the south and discovered the Katun glacier, later named after him, and the Berel glacier. Gebler then climbed the southern slope to the border of non-melting snows, made an attempt to determine the height of Belukha. Later in his article "A note on the Katunskie mountains" Gebler speaks of Belukha as highest peak"Russian Altai".
The Siberian researcher and scientist, professor of Tomsk University Vasily Vasilyevich Sapozhnikov, who in the period from 1895 to 1911 repeatedly visited the Belukha region from the northern and southern sides and discovered and described the Belukha glacier massif: glaciers Akkemsky, Iedygemsky , as well as their tributaries and satellites, the Black glacier, Myushtuiry (Brothers of Tronovs) and several other glaciers in the upper reaches of the Kuchurla. In 1898, after two unsuccessful attempts in previous years, Sapozhnikov and his companions reached the saddle of Belukha and measured the height of its peaks.
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SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTOS:
Team nomad
N.G.Seledtsov, N.E.Shpilekova. "To help a tourist." Gorno-Altaysk, 2000
Sapozhnikov V.V. Across Altai. - M .: Geografgiz, 1949 .-- 579 p.
Galakhov V.P., Mukhametov R.M. Glaciers of Altai. - Novosibirsk: Science, 1999.
http://www.altai-photo.ru/
Altai Mountains - article from the Great Soviet Encyclopedia
Altai landscape region in the book: N. A. Gvozdetsky, N. I. Mikhailov. physical geography THE USSR. M., 1978.
Golden Mountains of Altai on the site of the Natural Heritage Protection Fund
Murzaev E.M. Dictionary of folk geographical terms... 1st ed. - M., Thought, 1984.
Murzaev E. M. Turkic geographical names... - M., Vost. lit., 1996.
Altai // Brockhaus and Efron Encyclopedic Dictionary: In 86 volumes (82 volumes and 4 additional). - SPb., 1890-1907.
http://www.turistka.ru/altai/
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Siberian Alps, Russian Tibet - this is what they call this amazing place. The Altai mountains, the photos of which are amazing, are not in vain included in the UNESCO list. And not only tourists admire the pristine beauty of this region, for the indigenous people it is also the one and only.
height and main ridges
The Altai Mountains are a complex system of ridges located on the territory of several states. The Russian part of them is concentrated in This is the most high part Siberia, which attracts with its harsh beauty and snow caps. Travelers, scientists, hikers, climbers, painters, photographers and pilgrims come here every year.
Altai - mountains, the height of which is different. The highest is the Katunsky ridge: its peaks rise on average 3200-3500 meters above sea level. Outwardly, it resembles the Alps: sharp peaks, steep slopes, powerful glaciers and eternal snow. This is why this part of the system is the most visited. In addition, Belukha is located here - the highest of the mountains (4506 m) - and many picturesque lakes.
Belukha and Altai (mountains): height and legends
This peak is considered not only amazing but also a real shrine of the region. Interestingly, it is located at equal distances from the Indian, Quiet and Atlantic oceans, being the geographical center of Eurasia. It is surrounded by glaciers from which the Katun River originates. For many centuries, the locals have considered the mountain a refuge of evil spirits punishing anyone who breaks their peace. Buddhists believe that somewhere there, at the top, there is a fabulous Shambhala.
The peak got its name because of its eternal white cover. Although Belukha was conquered more than once, it remains inaccessible, and the seismic activity is quite high here. And in 1997, a natural park was opened in the vicinity of the mountain.
Chuisky ridge
Altai is proud not only of these peaks. The mountains, the height of which is not much lower, make up the Chuya ridge. In fact, these are two chains - southern and northern. The first is located far from the well-known tourist centers, hard-to-reach for transport, wild. Highest point- Iktu peak (3941 m). The other is more developed, since there are not only high mountains, but also colorful meadows, lakes, rich flora and fauna. Here is the second highest peak of the system - Maashi-Bashi, 4137 meters - this is the height of the mountain. Altai in this part is generally rich in huge peaks, which attracts climbers here.
This is another interesting peak that rises only 1210 meters. This is the very Kolyvanovsky ridge. Climbing it, you can see fantastic landscapes: the Kulunda steppe, the famous pine forest, blue-eyed lakes and other snow-capped mountains. Fir forests on the Sinyukha slope gave it an unusual color, which formed the basis of the name. It is also sacred to the inhabitants of these places, and there is a healing spring on the northern slope.
Altyn-Tu, located next to Lake Teletskoye, is revered local residents especially. Beautiful views on the river will give from its top that is near Lake Aya. Tourists do not miss small cliffs. bizarre shapes- The Big Monastery (near the village of Ust-Pustynka), the Castle of Mountain Spirits (Akkain Pass), Stone Mushrooms (near Lake Teletskoye) and many others.
Altai Territory is the most wonderful place on earth!
