Traveling in the Urals by car routes in the summer. Shaitan-stone and Allaki Stone Tents. South Ural: Taganay National Park

The South Ural is rich in its tourism opportunities. You can raft along the South Ural rivers, visit caves, ride between lakes Chelyabinsk region on bicycles, or you can walk with a backpack in the mountains, spending the night in tents. Eight years ago, I set myself the goal of visiting all the ridges of the Southern Urals. Not that I have already reached this goal (the larger ones took my time), but I can say that when they call me some peak of the Southern Urals, it turns out that I have either already visited it, or stood on a neighboring ridge and admired this peak. This article summarizes my experience and provides an overview of overnight hiking routes in the Southern Urals.

If we imagine a typical South Ural mountain, we will see at its foot a spruce taiga with an admixture of deciduous trees and shrubs, which will become smaller and smaller as we go up. The steeper slopes will be piles of granite boulders ranging in size from a ball to a one-story house (in the Urals and Siberia, they are called the Turkic word kurum). The tongues of these placers descend into the valley in the form of a stone river (it is not clear why trees do not grow on it). Even higher, the trees become dwarf and turn into shrubs that grow up to 1000 meters above sea level in the north of the Southern Urals and up to 1200 meters in the south. Alpine meadows, tundra and raised bogs are stretched between the tops of the ridge. The peaks themselves are kurum domes with outlier rocks at the top. Only the easternmost ridges differ from this description, where there is no kurum and the forest is rare. This is the place where Ural mountains replaced by the Great Steppe. On the northern slopes in hollows, snow often persists until the end of June. The mountains are accessible for climbing from almost any side. This is a typical mid-altitude area.

The residents of Yekaterinburg are in a unique position. Yekaterinburg is located in the lowest part of the Middle Urals. You can live in Yekaterinburg and not feel that we live in a mountainous region (only the green ridge of Uktus reminds us of the mountains with lifts if the windows face south). But we are separated from the real mountains by 6-12 hours by car to the south. This is exactly how much time we need to get to the settlements from which we begin hiking in the Southern Urals (cities from Zlatoust to Beloretsk).


Hiking in the South Urals they begin in mid-May and end at the end of October. In early May and early November - off-season. At this time, you can feel summer or winter depending on the weather. December to April is skiing season, although it is possible to hike on the snowmobile trails that follow the most popular routes. Even in summer, you have to prepare for the weather from hot summer to late autumn. And in mid-June you can get caught in the snow. The Urals are holding back the clouds that are coming from European Russia to Siberia. Standing on the top, I repeatedly saw heavy clouds hanging over all the ridges of the Southern Urals, and the sun was shining over the West Siberian Plain, and the light green plain emphasized the dark blue color of numerous lakes. The main blow of the elements is taken by the western ridges - Nary, Zigalga, Suuk (the latter is translated as cold, windy). Clouds usually hang up to the Uraltau watershed ridge, along which the border between Europe and Asia passes. Uraltau runs east of the highest ridges and stretches from north to south for 500 km. Above the ridges east of Uraltau - Nurali, Irendyk, Kryktytau, sunny weather is more frequent.

On a clear day, a panorama of more than 50 km opens from the peaks. If you are very lucky, then you can see the entire Southern Urals in five trips, climbing the Taganai, Nurgush, Iremel, Kumardak, Shatak ridges. In reality, you will need to do about 15 hikes, after which, standing on the next peak, you can proudly show newcomers to the neighboring ridges and name the names of their peaks, mentally flying from one to another and remembering the hikes already passed. This is all yours, which you met not with the help of guidebooks and the Internet, but in reality - with the help of your feet.

The names of the South Urals testify to the various peoples who lived in this territory. There are Turkic names here ending in tau (mountain), kul (lake) and elga (river). For example, Kryktytau, Zyuratkul. There are also more ancient - Aryan names ending in dak (ridges that end in dag are spread over almost all of Eurasia - witnesses of the migrations of the Indo-Europeans), for example, Kumardak. Especially interesting are the names that combine the roots of different languages. For example, the Karaganka river ("kara" in Turkic means black, but Ganka means the Ganges, a river). Even now, the South Urals, as befits a mountainous region, is an interweaving of different peoples. Bashkirs of various clans, Russians, Cossacks, Tatars, Mishars, Nagaybaks, Mari, Chuvashs live here.

Ekaterinburg residents can visit almost any peak in 2-3 days, for example, leaving on the night from Friday to Saturday, walking on Saturday, Sunday, and, possibly, Monday, and returning home at night. The same applies to residents of Ufa and Chelyabinsk, only they need to leave their cities early in the morning. And only the most distant ridges will take 5-6 days. It is logical to start from the north (the most interesting and beautiful Taganai ridge is located there) and each time go further and further south until you have bypassed all the ridges. Do not be confused that at the very beginning you will visit the most interesting, according to most tourists, ridge - Taganay. As you move south, you will become a connoisseur of the South Urals, finding unique beauty in each mountain.

In this review, I would like to describe 31 routes in the South Urals and place a kmz map for each area for the gps-navigator and "Google Earth". Almost all routes last from 2 to 4 days, that is, they do not require a vacation. The goal of each hike is to get acquainted with one, maximum two, ridges of the Southern Urals (with the exception of hikes along Zyuratkul and the outskirts of Beloretsk). In fanatical mode, if you travel to the South Urals almost every weekend from May to mid-October, you can complete these routes in two years. In a more relaxed mode, six trips a year will last for five years. In ours, there is definitely a hike in the South Urals.

Large centers, from which routes in the Southern Urals begin, are Zlatoust, Zyuratkul with Sibirka, Tyulyuk and Beloretsk with the surrounding villages.

Outskirts of Zlatoust, Taganay Natural Park

People usually go to the Taganay Natural Park from the city of Zlatoust. You can also get there by train. This is the most concentrated place in the Southern Urals in terms of the number of various mountains. Here is the longest kurum river of white boulders (quartz), a two-headed hill with kurum and rocks at the top, a rocky ridge ridge, a valley of dwarf firs - the Valley of Fairy Tales, a round dome of Kruglitsa - a mountain that, being swept by snow, looks like a five-thousander, mountain tundra Dalny Taganai, relict spruce forest of Mount Itsyl and others. The peculiarity of the nature park is that it has shelters. Therefore, if you wish, you can go hiking without tents. On Taganay you can go hiking along the following routes:

1.1. Mount Yurma (2 days) - it is more logical to start with it, since it is the northernmost thousand-meter of the Southern Urals. It is a forest-covered mountain with rocks at the top. Start from the dirtiest city in the world - Karabash. In it you will see rivers of poisonous color and a bald mountain with a bowing cross and the inscription "Save and Preserve" (the vegetation was burned by acid rains). The more contrasting will be the sensations when you find yourself in virgin nature. The third day can be spent on rest on the Uvildy lake. The name of the mountain makes you wonder whether it is worth doing tourism at all - it translates as “Don't go”.

1.2. The route considered to be the most beautiful and popular in the South Urals: upper trail: Two-headed Sopka, Otkliknoy ridge, Valley of Fairy Tales (1 day), Kruglitsa, lower trail, Kamennaya river (2 days).

1.3. Lower path to the Kialim cordon (1 day). Dalny Taganay, Itsyl (2 days), lower path to Zlatoust.

1.4. Mont Blanc (from this small rocky peak you can look at the peaks of the Bolshoi Taganay ridge from the side), Maly Taganay (1 day). Small Ural ridge and Aleksandrovskaya Sopka (2 days).

1.5. From Zlatoust you can go to another ridge that is not included in the Taganay Natural Park - Urengu (south of Zlatoust). In 1 day you can pass the First and Second hills and the third peak - Two brothers. At Urenga you can feel how the climate changes as you climb up and see the vastness of the Urals from the top. The two brothers have graceful marble rocks at the top. On the second day, you can go to the next natural park of the South Urals - Zyuratkul.

You can end your hikes at Lake Turgoyak. This is a clean lake among forested peaks, which is called the younger brother of Lake Baikal. Indeed, they have something in common. On Turgoyak there is Vera Island with archaeological sites of different eras.

It is logical for residents of other parts of our country to take a week of vacation with adjoining days off and go to Taganay and the vicinity of Zlatoust for 9 days.

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Nature Park Zyuratkul

If Taganay is ridges stretching from north to south, then I can compare the location of the ridges of the Zyuratkul Natural Park with a blossoming bud with a dew drop - Lake Zyuratkul, located at an altitude of 724m above sea level. Here is the highest peak of the Chelyabinsk region - the Nurgush ridge with the largest tundra in the Southern Urals, the Zyuratkul ridge accessible to novice tourists, Uvan mountain with the Uvansky fountain - a well from which water beats 5 meters (in winter it is a large icicle from which water flows) , the rocky ridge Suuk (Suka), which is translated into Russian as cold, windy (this is the western ridge-thousand-meter, which receives cyclones from European Russia). In the nature park, there is the Elk geoglyph (a large-scale image of the contour of an elk, visible from a height).

Routes can start from the villages of Zyuratkul - a resort place with tourist centers and a zoo, Sibirki - the place of the closest natural park to all the ridges, the village of Katavki. Options for hiking in Zyuratkul:

2.1. Zyuratkul village, Zyuratkul ridge, west coast Lake Zyuratkul (1 day). Moskal ridge (2 days).

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2.2. Sibirka, climbing Kalagazu, Uvansky fountain, climbing Uvan (1 day). Pass over the Suuk ridge, ascent to the nearest peak, exit to Katavka (2 days). You can also go for three days, spending the second day on a long light walk along the southern part of the Suuk ridge. Uvan is the central peak of the natural park. It offers a majestic panorama of the neighboring ridges.

2.3. Sibirka, Olympiev cordon, pass between Sredniy and Bolshoy Nurgush (1 day). Walking light on Middle Nurgush (2 days, optional). Traverse to the Bolshoi Nurgush peak (trekking with a backpack through the summit), descent to the southern end of Lake Zyuratkul (3 days). Climbing Moskal, going to the village of Zyuratkul (4 days).

2.4. Southern part of Urenga. Zyuratkul village, western shore of Zyuratkul lake, climbing Moskal, the foot of Lukash (1 day). Climbing light on Mount Lukash, trekking to the foot of Urenga (2 day). Walk along the rocky peaks of the southern part of Urenga (3 days). Crossing Ai, exit to Plotinka village (4 days). In case of difficulties with the crossing, you can return along the same route as the call (5-day route), or to the pass between Sredniy and Bolshoy Nurgush (4 days), climb Sredniy and Bolshoy Nurgushi (5 days), Sibirka (6 days).

2.5. Traverse of the Bolshoi Nurgush ridge (passage with a rucksack through all the peaks of Nurgush) from the village of Zyuratkul to the village of Tyulyuk - a place from where hiking in the next part of the Southern Urals is made. Duration from 4 to 5 days.

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We will conventionally refer to the same area the Nurali ridge, located at the same latitude as the Zyuratkul natural park. This is the most unusual ridge without a forest. It is located to the east of the Uraltau ridge and all precipitation is successively taken over by the following ridges: Suuk, Uvan, Nurgush, Urenga, Uraltau. Nurali gets practically nothing. The ridge is winding and has deep corridors. On it is the source of the Miass River.

2.6. The village of Yalchigulovo, Uchalinsky district, the source of the Miass, ascent to the southern part of the Nurali ridge (1 day). Climbing the northern part of the ridge, visiting the lakes at the foot, returning to Yalchigulovo, climbing Mount Aushtau (at the top is the saint's grave), Lake Aushkul, departure (2 days).

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The outskirts of Tyulyuk. Iremel Natural Park.

Tuluk - resort village with several camp sites. A number of interesting routes along the Southern Urals begin from here. Here it is sacred mountain Iremel is the second highest in the South Urals. It is a horseshoe from the mountains Zherebchik, Big Iremel and three peaks of Small Iremel. Here is the plateau of the Big Iremel - tundra with sparse forests of dwarf firs, Mount Suktash with a string of rocks descending from the top. The horseshoe is surrounded by swampy tundra and kurum rivers of the Tygyn river valley and the Avalyak ridge. To the north of Tyulyuk are the Southern Nurgush (part of the Zyuratkul Natural Park) and Yagodny ridges with a picturesque lake - the source of the Tyulyuk River. To the south is the village of Aleksandrovka, turned into an ecovillage by the movement of the Anastasians (admirers of the work of Vladimir Megre). You can drive from Tyulyuk to Aleksandrovka only by off-road vehicle. From it, routes begin to the forested Bakty ridge with picturesque rocks on the peaks and Mount Zigalga - a powerful ridge with rocky rocky peaks and the largest raised bog in the Southern Urals. On Zygalga there are moraines - traces of an ancient glacier through which the Yevlakta River with a lake and a waterfall flows among the rocky peaks. The source of Yevlakta is lost among the huge curum river that runs to the top of the Poperechnaya (stretched not along, but across the ridge). I like to train on this kurum river, and go down from the Poperechnaya already through the “park forest” next to the kurum river. The southern part of the Zigalga is represented by curum domes of various shapes - Sheloms. According to legend, only boys are born to those who have been to Shelomy. This part of the ridge is forbidden to visit, as it is located in the South Ural Nature Reserve. Hiking routes in the vicinity of Tyulyuk:

3.1. Tyulyuk is the horseshoe of Big Iremel. Ascent light on Big Iremel (1 day). Ascent light on Maly Iremel, return to Tyulyuk (2 days).

3.2. South Nurgush (2 days).

3.3. Lake in the headwaters of Tyulyuk, Yagodny ridge (2 days).

3.4. Tyuluk - pass between Bolshoy and Malyi Iremel (1 day). Ascent light on Bolshoi and Maly Iremeli (2 days). Trekking along the valley of the Tygyn river, climbing light-handed to the peaks of the Avalyak ridge (3 days). Descent to the village of Nikolaevka (4 days).

3.5. The Yuryuzan River, before reaching Tyulyuk, at the northern end of the Zigalga ridge. Crossing Yuryuzan (in high water - on a catamaran). Trekking along the Yevlakta river to the lake and waterfall and to the beginning of the Kurum river (1 day). Climbing Poperechnaya (2 day). Return to the starting point (3 days).

3.6. Aleksandrovka village - pass over Zigalga (1 day). Walking light-handed along the middle part of Zigalga, Frozen Cliff Mountain (2 days). If it were not for the reserve, it would be possible to go light to Shelomy (3 days). Descent from the pass to the village of Verkhniy Katav.

The traverse of the entire Zygalga ridge would take 5 days.

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In the village of Verkhniy Katav, you can also finish another three-day route - along the Dry Mountains ridge. This is a low ridge in comparison with the neighboring ridges of the Nara and Zigalga, a thousand-strong ridge, from which magnificent views of Poperechnaya, Shelomy and the peaks of the Nara ridge open. The peaks of the Dry Mountains are a fabulous sparse forest of dwarf firs.

3.7. Start in the village of Nilsky, hike with a backpack to the pass through the Dry Mountains (1 day). Walk to the southern part of the ridge (2 days). Trekking with a backpack across the northern part of the ridge to the village of Verkhniy Katav (3 days).

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3.8. The Bakty ridge from Tyulyuk to the village of Verkhnearshinsky. It should be borne in mind that where the ridge ends, there is the South Ural Reserve (3 days).

Neighborhoods of Beloretsk

The peculiarity of the area is that there are both elongated ridges, for example, Kumardak, and many short, thousand-meter ridges. Each ridge is unique in some way, so you can visit many different peaks in one trip. Kumardak is a string of thousand-meter peaks with spurs: Maly Kumardak and Bear. I like the stone river that descends from Kumardak in numerous "tributaries" separated by spruce groves. Routes:

4.1. Kumardak ridge: Tirlyansky village, Misela farm, Inzerskie Zubchatka, Kumardak foot (1 day). Pass between Medvezhya and Kumardak, light ascent to Medvezhya, descent from the pass, inspection of the Kamennaya river, light ascent to Bolshoi Kumardak (2 days). Ascent light on Maly Kumardak, exit to the village of Verkhnearshinsky (3 days).

4.2. The Mashak ridge, located to the west of Kumardak, is, unfortunately, located in a nature reserve. Kumardak and Mashak are joined from the south by the Angular Mashak mountain and are separated by the valley of the Yuryuzan river (its source is located there). This is one of the most remote places in the Southern Urals. If it could be visited, it would take a hike of 5-6 days.

4.3. Mount Yamantau, the highest peak of the Southern Urals, is located in the South Ural Reserve. Climbing it is strictly prohibited (3 days).

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4.4. Settlement Tirlyansky, Inzerskie Zubchatka, Crane bog (1 day). Mount Yalangas, Nura village (2 days). From Mount Yalangas you can look at the majestic ridges of the South Urals from a little side.

4.5. Neighborhoods of the village of Nury. Several short ridges can be visited depending on the number of days. Raspberry and Kirel mountains (1 day). Trekking to the foot of Aursyak (Salavattau) and Mayardak (2 days). Climbing Mayardak and Aursyak, trekking to the foot of Yalangas (3 days). Climbing Yalangas, returning to Nuru (4th day).

4.6. Many mountains are located to the west of Bolshoi Inzer - Kapkalka, Eriktash, Karatash, Yusha, Shiktash. All of them are included in the South Ural Reserve. Crossing the Bolshoi Inzer is difficult (4-5 days).

4.7. Mount Small Yamantau is open to the public. An ecological trail from the village of Revet leads to its top (not far from railway station Inzer).

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Southern ridges

These are the ridges on which the forest border runs at an altitude of 1200 m - that is, at the very peaks. There is practically no kurum on the ridges. Above there are steppes with sharp rocky peaks. Let's consider three ridges: Kryktytau, Kraka and Shatak. The peaks south of these ridges are already completely hidden by the forest.

This is a long ridge to the west of Uraltau, therefore, it is characterized by gentle peaks with sharp rocks, the absence of kurum, and deep rocky gorges with waterfalls. At the foot of Kryktytau there are ski resorts Abzakovo and Bannoe. Near Bannoye there is Mountain gorge- a place where climbers train. In Kryktytau, you can make three three-day hikes - along the northern, middle and southern parts. it favorite place recreation for residents of Magnitogorsk

5.1. Northern part of Kryktytau. The three-day itinerary starts and ends at ski resort Abzakovo. You can go deep into the ridge, the next day take a light walk along the peaks and return to Abzakovo on the third day.

5.2. Bannoe, pioneer camp, Mountain gorge, light ascent to Yamankaya (a magnificent view of the Great Steppe and many lakes opens from the mountain), ascent to the peaks of the Salavat Mountains (Shershiltau) (1 day). Trekking with a backpack downhill Kusimova, setting up a camp, hiking light-handed to Mount Kushai (2 days). Down the Vodopadnoye stream to the Bannoye lake.

5.3. Southern part of Kryktytau. A forested ridge with rocky peaks towering over the forest. The highest peak is Karatash near the village of Kuzhanovo. You can finish in Askarovo (route for 3 days).

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Kraka

A sinuous ridge with deep stream valleys. The valleys are overgrown with forest, and the ridge itself is bald in places.

5.4. The route starts and ends in Shigaevo. In three days you can visit the Greater and Lesser Kraka ridges.

Shatak

This is the southernmost ridge in the Southern Urals, the peaks of which rise above the forest level. To the south of it there are also thousand-meter peaks, but they are already completely hidden by the forest. At the top of Shatak there is a steppe, where you can meet wild horses, and rocky peaks.

5.5. The three-day Shatak route begins and ends in the village of Ismakaevo. On the first day we climb the ridge as long as there is water. On the second day, we walk light on the steppe along the circular route, examining the southern peaks of Shatak and the Maly Shatak ridge. On the third day, we climb the highest peak - Bolshoi Shatak and return to Ismakaevo.

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Routes other than the South Urals?

When planning 2-4 day trips with an overnight one, it is logical to pay attention to the north. In the Northern Urals, the mountains are similar in appearance to the mountains of the Southern Urals, only the border of the forest is much lower - at a level of 800m and instead of spruce forests there are cedars (Siberian pine) and the climate is more severe. The delivery is difficult - almost everywhere, except for the Konzhakovsky Kamen and Kachkanar massif, an off-road vehicle is required.

The logical development of tourist life after overnight hikes in the Urals - hikes from 1 to 3 weeks in Altai and Siberia. These trips in the tourist club "New Nomads" are carried out within the framework of the "" project.

Map "South Ural - sewn 5-kilometer route"

Hiking with overnight in the Urals (see also):

⇐ Previous part | ⇒

In the final part of the story about the trip to the Urals, I will summarize the accounting results, I will tell you how much such a week trip by car can cost in pursuit of dumplings. I will describe our car life and show the car itself, where we drove on it and why. How we got stuck in Magnitogorsk. How the roads of the Vladimir region took away one wheel from us. How the Tilt-Shift lens was broken. What is the Bashkir buffet "Guzel" and much more.

Traditionally, we changed our route already during the trip. We decided not to go through the north. According to readers, the road there is much worse than the M-7. Final movement map:

1. We left at five o'clock in the evening and at midnight we were already drinking tea at Nizhny Novgorod together with the famous Leha Lifanov lifanov_l_bpyc ... It took place in the Bar Mesto lounge bar. It was tasty and not cheap there, which did not really fit into our concept of cheap travel and food in roadside cafes. I will say in advance that this is the second concept that collapsed after the first - non-alcoholic. More on this below.

The Volga federal highway M-7 from Moscow to Ufa is boring and wavy. The worst section of the road is located in Chuvashia in front of Cheboksary. It's amazing how a federal road can have such a dead surface. On the way there (that is, in the direction of the Urals) it was still bearable, but at the same time unbearable - immediately after Nizhny Novgorod there was such heavy snow that we drove four hundred kilometers to Kazan all night. Visibility was zero, traffic too, where to go - it is not clear. But all the potholes and pits were leveled with snow. By the time we drove back everything had melted, thinned and crawled. I was very worried about the integrity of the disks, but they reached the Vladimir region safely.

Typical landscapes from the window:

2. From the Moscow Ring Road to the ChKAD we traveled exactly 1790 kilometers. We drove without an overnight stay for about 30 hours.

3. Before the trip we were frightened by Bashkir traffic cops, but they did not say anything about roadside cafes. Once in Bashkortostan, we immediately tensed and turned on double control of road signs. Before the responsible haul, it was decided to have breakfast at the Guzel buffet. It’s like jumping into an icy lake after a bath, or having breakfast at Guzeli after “Bar Mesto”. Wash your hands in the toilet - 10 rubles per person. Toilet is a separate building, locked with a key, which is issued at the checkout. Smoking in the building is prohibited, smoking is paid - 100 rubles. The food is so-so. “Yelling from the table is not an order yet” - they answered my question about the readiness of the mantas.

4. Closer to the Urals, the landscapes became more picturesque and hilly.

5. In Bashkortostan, I was pleased with the funny feature of the arrangement of road signs. Signs for overtaking are prohibited regularly, and signs of canceling the ban have all disappeared somewhere. There is no markup either. And here you used to crawl 70 km / h behind a truck, the road is straight, wide and with holes. And it's scary to overtake - it's a pity for the right.

6. The road from Ufa to Chelyabinsk, although it goes through the mountains, is not as interesting as the road through Magnitogorsk. Although, in both cases, we did not take a single shot - the views seem to be beautiful, but there is nothing to shoot.

7. The real beauty began in the industries of the Urals. It was industrial types, factories and factories that were the purpose of our trip. In five days in the Urals, we managed to do a lot: visit five large production facilities of ferrous and non-ferrous metallurgy, climb a dozen rooftops in Chelyabinsk, drive two thousand kilometers between the Ural cities (the logistics of movement let us down) and get stuck on tram tracks in Magnitogorsk.

This time we got a spacious and large (compared to the previous trip) Chevrolet Orlando LTZ (maximum configuration).

2.0D Turbo Diesel 163hp (120.0 kW)
Automatic 6-speed transmission
LTZ complete set

9. We drove into a part of the production facilities directly by car and rode between trucks and bulldozers. A particularly elegant area turned out to be in the Pervouralsk Novotrubny Plant and at Height 239. You can even shoot weddings there. One hundred percent art.

10. Karabashmed.

11. Kind people from the management of one of the metallurgical plants presented us with a large volume of Russian literature. A bottle of vodka lay neatly inside the tome. After icy nights, it served as a means of preventing acute respiratory infections. We have a non-alcoholic trip.

12. The discovery of the whole trip was, of course, Magnitogorsk. An ideal road from Chelyabinsk leads to it, which the whole of Chuvashia will envy. On the way, the temperature overboard dropped to -40º, the moon was shining in the sky, and oncoming cars met once an hour. Having entered Magnitogorsk, the weather changed dramatically - it became warmer at once by 15º and it started to snow. Then we figured out that we drove into the Magnitogorsk clouds of the metallurgical plant. The city looked something like this:

13. Magnitogorsk is one of the world's largest centers of ferrous metallurgy, half hidden in the clouds of its own production on frosty days. We checked into a good hotel Crown on Komsomolskaya Street and at two o'clock in the morning decided to see the city. His tipsy friend was sitting in the foyer with the guard:
- Goodnight. Are there observation decks in the city with a good view? - I turned to the company.
- Yeah, on the other side. - held out a friend.
- Show me on the map? We would take a walk there now.
- Now? Are you out of your mind? There are these factory ones. Well, they are all that, like.
- We're in a car.
- A-ah, by car, then it's another matter. We thought you were ...

Only a part of Magnitogorsk was opened from the observation deck.

A funny situation happened at about four in the morning. I decided to turn around through the tram tracks - they were on the same level with the road with the rolling snow. There is asphalt under the snow, just like we have in Moscow, I thought, and turned around. We took some photos and decided to go to the hotel. I began to turn around once more and sat down between the rails. It turned out that there was no asphalt between the tracks, only snow. Kolya pushed me, pushed me, but did not push me out. They sat down tightly, belly on the rails.

Night from Saturday to Sunday, outside -36 degrees. Like a dragon puffs and growls a metallurgical plant. In clouds of steam and smoke, a giant blue volcano erupts with the sound of a flying supersonic fighter jet. Then it goes out, and now a bright glow flares up in the other side - the slag is being poured. No one on the road but a white Chevrolet Orlando across the tram lines. There was only one consolation - there should have been enough diesel fuel until the morning, when the first tram with the metallurgists will go.

Suddenly a tiny car stopped. The foggy driver's window opened.
- Che, stuck?
- Yes, do you have a cable?
- There is no cable, we are late for the airport.
- Well, maybe let's try to push quickly?
- Only quickly. - and from somewhere out of the car as many as five people came out!

We'll push out of six, I thought! But the car didn't even budge. The guys got dirty, wished us success in meeting with the morning metallurgists and left for the airport. On the other side, a guard stopped at Niva, but also without a cable. I had to find a cable in our car. It turned out that the emergency kit had everything, even a vest with gloves. They began to pull. Niva strained and roared and went deaf. It stank of the clutch. At some point, the impression was that the VAZ would now die, but still the domestic auto industry was able to get us back on the road. I thanked the driver and promised myself not to turn back across the tram tracks in Magnitogorsk.

14. In the morning, the picture did not change much, so we slept through breakfast.

16. View from Europe to Asia. The city is located on the eastern slope of the Southern Urals, on the Ural River (the right bank in Europe, the left bank in Asia).

17. Sly contraption in the style of a control tower. One of the few mill structures visible in the clouds.

18. It was very sad to leave Magnitogorsk. We liked the city. "The first socialist city in the Urals" demanded more attention, but things in Moscow could not wait. There were 1600 kilometers of the way to the house.

19. Now a few words about the Chevrolet Orlando. Despite the good front view, shooting through the windshield, alas, did not work. The picture floated like when shooting through an airplane window.

20. This time all our things fit perfectly in the trunk, even the Chelyabinsk broom found a place. But the boombox broke and didn't go again. It is worth noting that with each trip we take less and less unnecessary things with us. For example, to Baikal, we no longer took two red buckets.

An unforgivable connivance was the fact that we put our cameras on top of all this pile of goods. At night, when unloading at the Magnitogorsk hotel, one of the cameras (Canon Mark III) fell out and fell down with a Tilt-Shift lens. The latch of one of the slides has broken. Sunday was officially declared a day of mourning.

21. In general, Orlando is a 7-seater car. The rear seats fold down to form a flat floor and a fairly voluminous trunk, but with a high level of loading. If you fold the middle row, move the front seats and put something under your head, then you can safely spend the night for two people in the car (only in this case, somewhere to shift all things).

22. The same angle, only from the side.

23. If you use the rear two seats, the volume of the trunk is reduced to the size of the glove compartment. That is, 7 people can comfortably move around in the city by car, but a long distance car is a dubious option. You should at least put a roof rack.

24. The dashboard is not much different from the Chevrolet Cruze. All the same style of "transformers", similar finishing materials. In general, everything is convenient and familiar. The main thing is that there is a knob to adjust the volume)

I was very glad that we got a diesel car. The turbocharged engine with a capacity of 163 l / s easily accelerated our bus at the moments of overtaking. There were no problems with the dynamics of acceleration. Riding with such a motor is a pleasure.

The road to Nizhny Novgorod was flat and without snow. The average consumption, taking into account the eternal traffic jam in Balashikha, was 6 liters per 100 km. In the Chuvash blizzard and off-road conditions, the consumption increased to 6.6 liters. For the entire trip with stops, filming and Magnitogorsk, the flow rate increased to 7.3.

25. As far as I understand, the platform for this car came from the Chevrolet Cruze, with some modifications by Korean engineers. Externally, the car looks like a crossover, but this impression is deceiving. Visibility is better than in the Cruze, the driver's seating position is higher, but the ground clearance remains the same. At the same time, I did not like the work of the suspension. Even on small potholes and potholes, the car was shaking with noise, clinking with our invaluable goods in the trunk. The smoothness and softness of the Chevrolet Cruze is clearly better. Maybe due to the fact that the mass of the body is less than that of Orlando, it can South Korea the roads are smoother, maybe because we got a car with low-profile R18 tires.

26. There is a cache in the central control panel. We even managed to call GM and were indignant - a modern car, but there is no usb and aux output! It turned out that everything was hidden in a cache. But again, there is no option so that you can close the lid without removing, for example, the wire with the telephone. Empirically, we found out that if you slam the lid with force, then the wiring bends pitifully, but continues to work.

27. On the way back to Vladimir, a ten-kilometer traffic jam was noticed on Yandex. We decidedly didn’t want to stand in it, and we made a detour. We may not have lost in time, but the Vladimir land took the cast 18-inch disk from us.

28. We were not the only ones who turned out to be so smart and took a detour. Together with a hundred trucks and cars, we crawled along a narrow and winding bypass road at a speed of no more than 40 km / h. The local asphalt was clearly not ready for such high speeds and such traffic, so the whole thing fell apart. We also got into one of the craters, after which the sad sound of a descent wheel penetrated into the cabin.

29. I have a rich experience of changing wheels in the most vile conditions, but I have never used an "external" spare wheel, and even in the Vladimir region. The thought that now it would be necessary to climb into the dirt under the car and twist something there did not raise the mood. After careful examination of the spare wheel mounting system, it became clear that nothing was clear. We called GM. Everything turned out to be much simpler than we thought - the wheel fastening is loosened with a special key directly from the trunk - under the floor there is a small compartment for small things, there are also spare wheel bolts. The first time I encountered such a system. Maybe a fragile girl alone will not be able to cope with changing a wheel, but an adult man can definitely do it.

Once again, Colin's super flashlights came in handy. We got up in the wrong place, right at the bend, and occupied a whole lane. On the side of the road in the mud, I would not have been able to use the jack. Additional illumination of the triangle did the trick. The drivers slowed down a hundred meters before our car and slowly drove around us in the oncoming lane.

30. It took half an hour to replace the wheel. When we were about to leave, another citizen fell into the pit. Also minus one disk and bus. We went back to the treacherous pit and put a bottle of water filled with snow in it.

31. Greetings to the road services of the Vladimir region!

32. End of the story about the second trip to Russia.

The results of the trip.

Schedule:
February 17. Start in the evening from Moscow. Late dinner in Nizhny Novgorod.
18th of Febuary. Driving to Chelyabinsk without overnight stays. Breakfast at Guzel's. Closer to night, check-in at the Malachite hotel in Chelyabinsk.
February 19. Shooting the city from the rooftops, rest, food.
February 20th. Filming the city from the rooftops, filming the Chelyabinsk Metallurgical Plant and Mikheevsky GOK.
February 21. Filming the city from the rooftops, filming Heights 239 and Karabashmedi.
February 22. Moving to Pervouralsk, filming of the Pervouralsk Novotrubny plant, driving to Magnitogorsk.
February 23. Night and day shooting in Magnitogorsk. Departure to Moscow. Dinner in Ufa.
24 February. Overnight in Kazan, wheel change near Vladimir and arrival in Moscow.

We spent 77 hours in the car.

From the Moscow Ring Road to the Moscow Ring Road we drove a beautiful 5555 kilometers (actually 5556, but I rounded it up).
Average fuel consumption was 7.3 liters per 100 km.

Expenses in rubles:
12,990 is just over 400 liters of diesel fuel.
15 966 ​​- food and meals during the trip. This time we ate like kings (except for Guzeli's buffet, of course). The most expensive feasts were in Yekaterinburg (account 4,400), in Nizhny Novgorod (2,500 rubles) and dinner in Ufa (1,500 rubles).
2,466 - products purchased in Moscow.
23,200 - four nights in Chelyabinsk at the Malakhit hotel. 5 800 rubles per room, plus breakfast.
3,900 - 4-bed room in Magnitogorsk, Korona hotel.
1,650 - a room in a road hotel in Kazan, I don't remember the name.
3 765 - other expenses (a canister, which was not needed again, twice a car wash, a taxi, thanks to the Niva driver)
1,000 - a fine for Kolya for sleeping in the back seat without fastening.
2 rubles - two lumps of sugar in a cafe in Kazan.

Total 64 939 for all or 21 646 rubles for one person.

That's all. Thank you for the attention!

Today, we have already returned from a March trip to Lake Baikal and the Olkhon Peninsula. Three trips behind. Next week, see photos of the ice and the incredible beauty of Lake Baikal. And I am writing this post on the plane Moscow-Krasnoyarsk. I am flying to the reindeer breeders for a holiday.

The Sokoliy Kamen rock, which is located in the Sverdlovsk region between two settlements - Krasnoyar and Zyuzelsky, is not as visited by tourists as other natural attractions of the Urals. And, in vain, travel coming here can be unforgettable. It is also quite often confused with the Falcon Stone near Severka. But it has nothing to do with this stone.

Travel in Russia: Sokoliy Kamen rock

Having decided to start a journey across Russia and once in the Urals, it is worth taking time to visit the Sokoliy Kamen rock. This rock received such a poetic name, most likely, because of the large number of falcons that lived in these places. And the toponymist A.K. Matveev. suggested that she was so named because of her beauty, and she was personified with a falcon.

Indeed, the rock itself is very beautiful and picturesque. Its height is 514 meters. It has rocky outcrops that can be displayed well even via satellite. They are located at a distance of about 500 meters from each other, and the height of each such protrusion is on average 20 meters.

Falcon stone and interesting places around it

The views on the Falcon Stone are breathtaking. The visibility is very good here. Moreover, there are very interesting places in Russia near this rock, which, by the way, are located not far from it. So you can visit them too. From the top you can see Mount Shunut, and from the other side you can see the peaks of Mount Azov. The most beautiful White Stone rock is located a little further along the path.

A mixed forest of young trees grows on the rock, there are clearings left over from felling. The places here are picturesque. It is especially beautiful here at the end of summer, rest in the fall in these places is like a fairy tale, when the leaves change their color. There are practically no signs of a person here, so there is a feeling of freedom to be away from civilization. Near the rock flows the Kuzikha River, which is a tributary of the Revda River.

How to get to the Falcon Stone

The Sokoliy Kamen rocks are located between the villages of Zyuzelsky and Krasnoyar. The road to this place is rather difficult, so be sure to use the map or navigator. Otherwise, you can go to the wrong place. Usually the route starts from Krasnoyar. To get to this village, you need to take a bus from Yekaterinburg to Revda, and from there to Krasnoyar.

From this village it will be necessary to overcome 12 kilometers to the point of destination. First you need to go to the Revda river, then cross the bridge (do not cross the river!) And at the fork, keep to the left road. Soon the Falcon Stone will appear, from which it is not far from the White Stone and the Azov Mountain, and then you can go to the village of Zyuzelsky.

The South Ural is rich in hiking trails.

The Taganay peaks, the Zyuratkul ridges, the rocky outcrops of Mount Arakul - there is where to roam! Vacation time is approaching. And we decided to make a map of the most interesting hiking routes in the South Urals. In this we are helped by experienced travelers, hiking organizers Evgeny Konovalov and Alexander Pshenichny, who know that even on well-known routes you can find unexplored paths.

1. Shemakhinskaya cave *

It is located near the Skaz village of the Nyazepetrovsky district. In summer, the cave is filled with water, which freezes in winter, turning the grotto into a fabulous ice city. Tourists can walk on the purest transparent ice floor and take pictures with long icicles. By the way, there is a second cave not far from the first one, but the descent into it is possible only with special equipment and with a certain preparation. The second cave will appeal to those who manage to move on their bellies. You will have to crawl almost the entire length of the dungeon.

When traveling to the caves, you can navigate the village of Shemakha, having reached it, ask the locals how to get to the village of Skaz, from where there is one road to the cave.


2. Sugomak *

Some of the most famous and easily accessible attractions in the north of the region are Mount Sugomak and Sugomak Cave, located in the vicinity of Kyshtym. The place is good because within a radius of a couple of kilometers you can visit several objects - a mountain, a lake and a cave.

The cave is the only one in the Urals, formed by water in a marble rock.

Climbing Mount Sugomak takes no more than an hour, the trail is accessible to children and pensioners. The top offers stunning views of the numerous lakes of our region, from this top you can even see Uvilda.

Mount Egoza rises to the north of Sugomak. These are the tops of the same ridge, they are very similar to each other.

By the way, on the way to Sugomak, you can call in one more amazing place- kaolin quarry. Tourists call this place Russian Bali. The quarry was dug in 1945 for the extraction of kaolin, a special type of white clay. An artificial reservoir with unusual blue water and snow-white shores is a favorite background for photographs. Usually the whole thing ends with photographing. It is believed that swimming in the quarry is unsafe due to the hazardous chemicals found in the water. So it turns out that not all white clay is good for the body!

The quarry is located near the village of Kaolinovy ​​near Kyshtym.

3. Sheehan ** and Allaki *

Kasli region is rich in mysterious places... So, many people know the stone outliers on Shikhan near Lake Arakul. The Shihan was formed by huge granite slabs and boulders, as if washed out with water. The origin of the remnants is unknown; some individual researchers even suggest that they appeared after the Flood. There are bizarre depressions on the stones - bowls.


In the same area there is another mystical place, where excursion groups go less often. These are "stone tents" on the shores of Lake Bolshie Allaki. On a small hill, boulders are pressed against each other, and around not a single rock or mountain is a continuous plain. Archaeologists believe that the "stone town" served as a sanctuary.

To get to the bizarre stones, you need to follow the Chelyabinsk - Yekaterinburg highway, before reaching Tyubuk, turn left. You can focus on the village of Krasny Partizan. To climb the outliers of Shikhan, you can drive to the village of Vishnevogorsk, or to Silach. Follow on foot from these settlements.

4. Urenga and Mont Blanc ***

The longest ridge of the Chelyabinsk region, Urenga, originates directly from the city of Zlatoust. The highest point of the ridge is the Second Sopka (Golaya Gora), the height of which reaches 1,198 m. It is from this point that a magnificent view of the entire Taganay National Park opens.


To climb to the top, you need to get to the village of Veselovka, from there a dirt road leads to the top.

By the way, the Chelyabinsk region has not only its own Paris, but also its own piece of the Alps. The Mont Blanc peak of the same name with the French mountain Taganay is the place where not every tourist gets. The reason is that Mont Blanc is located away from the main hiking trails. However, it's worth going there! All the main peaks of Taganay are visible from the mountain. But the simplest and most popular Taganay route is the Black Rock, the ascent will not be difficult even for those who first got out of a cozy apartment.

5. Big Nurgush ***

In another national park - "Zyuratkul" - the most high point Chelyabinsk region - 1,406 meters. Geographically, it is the Satka region. The trek to the top will become a landmark event, the route is good for those who want to test their strength in front of steeper peaks. One way travel is 14 km. Tourists begin their journey early in the morning from the shelter "At Three Peaks", this is the last place to rest before the ascent, more on the way of tourists you will not meet a warm corner. It is better to leave heavy things here in order to go light. Experienced travelers are advised to go to Big Nurgush in summer or winter, late autumn is also good. In the off-season, when everything in the city has melted, there is still water in the mountains, falling through the snow, you can kick into a stream. So during this period you will need to take extra clothes and shoes.

6. The cliffs on the Ai river *

The shores of the purest mountain rivers Sim and Ay are rich in natural attractions.

One of the most famous caves of the Chelyabinsk region, Ignatievskaya, is located in the Katav-Ivanovsky district, seven kilometers from the village of Serpievka on the right bank of the Sim River. Unique rock paintings were discovered here, which, according to scientists, were drawn from six to eight thousand years ago.

On the banks of the Ai River, on the border with Bashkiria, a real cave city is the Sikiyaz-Tamak cave complex, which has 42 separate grottoes.

We also recommend visiting the Great Stone Cliffs along the Ai River. This is a high and long rock wall, up to 100 meters high, and at the same time a natural observation deck, from where wonderful views of the local beauty open.

7. Attractions of Miass *

A beautiful view of the pearl of the Urals - Lake Turgoyak - opens from Lysaya Gora. Lake Inyshko is also clearly visible from here. You should go up the mountain right from Lake Inyshko itself.

A few kilometers from Lysaya Gora there is another interesting peak to visit - the Zaozerny Ridge (Falcon Rocks).

8. Korkinsky section *

An unusual route can be a visit to the Korkinsky open-cut mine. Despite the fact that it is he who is sometimes blamed for all environmental troubles by residents of Chelyabinsk and nearby settlements, this is an amazing place. The Korkinsky open-pit mine is the second largest coal mine in the world. Its depth is more than 500 meters, and the diameter of the funnel is one and a half kilometers. It is better to see all the power and greatness of a career in calm weather. Otherwise, it will be difficult to see anything due to the accumulation of coal dust in the section. Located near the village of Rosa.

9. Arkaim **

Few have not heard of the ancient settlement of Arkaim. However, there are surprises here as well. It is surprising that not all travelers, coming to Arkaim, visit the settlement itself. Many, getting to the tent camp and hills, believe that they have visited a place of power. But to the settlement itself, where the reconstruction of the Arkaim dwellings is now presented, and previously there were houses themselves, you need to walk several kilometers on foot (the general round-trip route is 5 km), an excursion can be ordered at the travel agency near the tent camp.

Several peaks far from the camp are also bypassed. As a rule, tourists climb Shamanka, Mount of Love, Mount of Repentance, located near the tents. A rare tourist gets to the Mount of Reason, which settled 16 km from the camp. It is believed that this mountain bestows clarity of mind, and the path to true knowledge is never easy! Many people get dizzy here, their health worsens - some researchers argue that the mountain is a source of radiation of the most powerful energy flows.

Seven kilometers from the camp is the Mount of Seven Seals, which is considered the place where the "third eye" can open. Routes in different directions from the camp can turn into interesting hikes during a visit to Arkaim.

By the way, the river Bolshaya Karaganka, which bends around the Arkaim settlement, is considered sacred by esotericists, and is called the sister of the Ganges. There is a local belief that in order to become one year younger, you need to sink into it as many times as the person is old.

The designations of the difficulty levels of the routes:

* - light

** - average

*** - heavy

Families are created on hikes

The guys from Chelyabinsk have been professionally organizing hikes for a couple of years. The personal travel experience of Evgeny Konovalov and Alexander Pshenichny is much longer than this period. At some point, I wanted to attract active rest others. This is how the Everest company was created, organizing trips, rafting and other events, both in the South Urals and in interesting places in Russia.

Our region has something to boast about, Evgeniy says knowingly. In his opinion, the South Ural is rich in natural attractions, and few people are inferior in their number.

- There are many places in Russia with beautiful nature... But there are more objects for tourism in our region than in other regions of the country. These are all kinds of caves, lakes, of which we have more than three thousand, etc., - says Evgeny Konovalov.

Guests from other regions went on hikes with the guys more than once. Tourists from Moscow, Yoshkar-Ola, Arkhangelsk, St. Petersburg came to the South Urals especially to see local attractions.

The main tourists traveling with Everest are young people under the age of 30, and most of them are those who prefer to travel around Russia, bypassing exotic countries.

- Our tourists joke that Everest connects hearts. Young people look closely at each other during the hikes, then create couples, families, - Evgeny Konovalov smiles. - Pensioners also go with us, of course, there were five people in one trip, so they all became friends with each other. During the hikes, friendly parties are formed, everyone communicates with pleasure. Bad people don't go camping!

Expert


Oleksandr Pshenichny, the organizer of the hiking tours, spoke about the attractiveness of rest with a backpack on his back:

- We need to take a break from civilization more often, go to the forest, mountains for a few days, a week in order to rest in the full sense of the word. After all, what is a traditional beach holiday by the sea? People just change one apartment for another, only a "pond with water" is added nearby. This does not allow you to completely relax the mind, calm down, stop. During the campaign, the tasks are simple - to make a fire, find food, this is what helps to get away from the worries of urban everyday life.

When you climb the mountains, it is indescribable emotions, overcoming yourself. Hikes form a personality in me, it is not only a hardening of the body, but also of the spirit, with each hike I exceed my own limit, and I grow as a person, personality, man.

What could be better than a fire cracking on a dark night or swimming in Turgoyak on a hot summer day? And in the evening you lie in a hammock and look at the stars. This real rest.

In addition, while hiking, you can always find like-minded people and hear wise advice. On our routes, we often communicate with completely different people, they are living sources of information who share their life experiences. So sometimes you go on a hike with a problem and come back with a solution.

How to dress for a hike?

In the cold period, the order is as follows: first thermal underwear, then a jacket or fleece sweatshirt. We complete the toilet with a ski suit. These three layers of clothing provide a guarantee that the tourist will not freeze or get wet. An expensive item of expenditure is footwear, it is better if it is a special hiking shoe. Usually such shoes are sold in sports stores, cost about 7-8 thousand rubles, however, during sales, prices are significantly reduced.

In the summer, you need two types of shoes - sneakers and flip-flops. The clothes are mostly cotton - trousers, T-shirt. For the evening - a warm fleece jacket. Since it is often windy in the mountains, a windbreaker may be needed. In the hot season, you can't do without a panama hat and sunglasses.

What to put in your backpack?

Packing a backpack also differs from what time the hike is organized, as well as its duration. If you have to spend the night in nature, the number of things increases dramatically.

You will always need a drink (in winter a thermos with tea, in the summer one and a half to two liters of water), a snack, matches, spare clothes (socks, mittens in winter), and in some hikes and shoes, a raincoat in the off-season and summer.

If the hike lasts for several days, then a tent, a sleeping bag, foam (a reliable heat insulator, is used to protect the tourist from the cold of the ground during a hike), an awning from rain (in summer time), an ax, a pot and cooking utensils, and a must-have a guitarist with a tool for fun.

In addition to the usual flashlight (a headlamp is convenient), in winter you cannot do without "flashlights" on your feet. This personal equipment protects the lower limbs from stones, sand, snow and water getting inside the shoe. They look like covers, worn over boots and the bottom of trousers.

By the way! It is better to go hiking with a phone with maps installed and a GPS, or with experienced traveler... The latter is preferable and safer.

The text of the article was updated: 03/09/2019

Popular wisdom says: "A testicle is dear to Christ's Day", and that it is not good to publish a report on a trip by car to interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region, which happened at the end of March, when it was still winter in the Urals, and not now, on the threshold of summer. But I have so much material in the queue for posting on the site that I just can't share travel reviews promptly. Therefore, excuse me, my friends, I am only telling you now. And, although the route that I will describe today is more suitable for excursions in winter, I am sure that some of the guests reading this text will decide to follow it in spring, summer, and autumn.


In general, it all started with the fact that after a fascinating, very eventful trip by car, Perm Territory on New Year's, my wife and I did not want to stay at home for the holidays on March 8 (this year it turned out as many as 4 free days). It took a long time to decide where to go, they really wanted to combine visiting interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria. The main goal of this trip was to be the Mambet rock, up to 200 meters high. It is located in the Gafuri region of Bashkiria, 10 km from the village of Tolparovo. It is not easy to get there in the summer, as you have to overcome something about 10 times fords across the Zilim River. But in winter, you can come to the camp site, and from there on a horse harnessed to a sleigh, right along the river bed, get to the foot of this amazing natural attraction.

Well, on the way to the Mambet rock, you can see a lot more: mountains, rocks, and caves (at least I wanted to stop by the Abaznovsky ice waterfall and visit the Askinsky ice cave). In order not to be distracted, I will tell you about this route at the end of the article, since we did not get to Tolparovo, because we woke up on March 8 on the day the trip began with a temperature. And the trip I'm talking about today is a shortened version of that planned large-scale trip in the South Urals in March.

  1. A route map listing the sights of the Southern Urals that we have visited, or those that have already been described in the blog.
  2. Ustinovsky canyon in the vicinity of Miass and the Bazhov Mountain Park in Zlatoust.
  3. Observation deck Black Rock in national park Taganay.
  4. Description of excursions in the city of Satka, Chelyabinsk region and in its environs.
  5. A trip to the Idrisovskaya cave in the Salavat region of Bashkiria.

1. Map of the route of travel to the sights of the Chelyabinsk region

Let's show you the trip scheme of the one that took place and the one that was originally planned. By the way, even if a cold didn't interfere, we would not have got to Mambet: it is too far from Yekaterinburg - for such a trip you need to either skip other interesting places and rush all day without stopping, or have a 5-6 days long vacation at your disposal.

Note. On the map, red dots are the actual route of the trip, orange dots are those places described on the blog in the Weekend Hikes section, colored dots are those sights that I have not seen or have not written a report on the site.

So, our trip to the South Urals took place on March 24-25, 2018. The plan and the fact are slightly different, so we could not see everything we wanted: below is the real route.

Day one travel:

  1. Ustinovsky canyon (did not reach).
  2. Mountain Park named after Bazhov (visited nearby on the red hill in Zlatoust, but did not go).
  3. Hike on observation deck Black rock in the Taganay natural park.
  4. Karagai quarry for the extraction of magnesite in Satka (they could not climb to the observation deck).
  5. Excursion to the Hammer and Sickle Monument on the outskirts of Satka.

Second day:

  1. A trip to the old hydroelectric power station in the Porogi tract.
  2. Excursion to the national park "Zyuratkul". Visit to the Ice Fountain and the Sokhatka moose farm.
  3. Moving to the border of the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria, where, on the side of the neighboring republic, we go on a hike to the Idrisovskaya cave.

We drove home at 17:30 along a road that I had never realized existed before: we drove through Starobelokatay and Tyulgash to the city of Mikhailovsky. We were in Yekaterinburg at about 23:30. The journey, although it took place partly through familiar places, turned out to be very rich and varied in terms of impressions. Once again, we delighted our souls by visiting interesting places.

2. Drive to the Ustinovsky Canyon. Mountain Park named after Bazhov on Krasnaya Gorka in Zlatoust

At 7:30 we leave Yekaterinburg in the direction of Chelyabinsk, before reaching which, along the high-speed section of the M5 highway "Chelyabinsk - Moscow", we return towards the city of Miass. We covered the distance of 330 km in about 6 hours, taking into account the stop for lunch at a cafe on the highway. Unfortunately, a section of the road to the canyon only 3 km long turned out to be covered with snow, and we do not have suitable equipment with us.

Just in case, here GPS coordinates for the navigator: 54.868874 59.971545. Here's what I had a description of how to get to the Ustinovsky canyon: from Miass we go to the highway to the city of Uchaly and go to the village of Chernovskoye. After about 5.5 km, there will be a right turn to the Ryabinushka gardens (here are the coordinates of the beginning of this dirt road: 54.871144, 60.012874). The closer to the point of interest, the more it narrows (but in good weather passable by any car). The distance from the asphalt road to the rocks is about 3 km.

We sigh that we had to make a small detour and go to Zlatoust, where at first I wanted to shoot a very beautiful view of the city at the foot of a huge mountain (we are talking about the Two-headed hill in the Taganai park, which we have repeatedly climbed).

I had two points from where you can shoot this view. I found the first one on Google Maps, just reading the caption to the picture, from one of the tourists: "Photographed in Zlatoust from Krasnaya Gorka." Google claims that this is the name of the neighborhood on the outskirts of the city.

We are coming. The road ends in a chapel, and the two-headed hill is nowhere to be seen. But the pleasant sound of bell ringing is pouring from the tower - there are some sculptures outside the fence. We decide to check what sights there are.

Zlatoust, due to its location near the Taganay National Park, is the center of attraction for tourists from all over the country. For their entertainment here, on Krasnaya Gorka, the incompatible was erected: a chapel and a monument to Yuri Gagarin. The bell tower was built in 2006, and the monument to the first cosmonaut of the Earth in 2012.

Katya and I wandered around the park, got together and left for the Black Rock, and now, while preparing the review, I just learned that: firstly, you can climb the roof of the tower - there is an observation deck with a beautiful view of Zlatoust; secondly, on Krasnaya Gorka, apparently behind the bell tower, there is mountain park named after Bazhov.

Judging by the photo reports of other travelers, the Bazhovsky Park is a pleasant place for walking with children (there are many cultural compositions with the heroes of the fairy tales of the great Ural writer), and there, in clear weather, you can actually shoot a beautiful frame with the Taganai mountains hanging over the city buildings on a telephoto lens. Watch the video with the report.

And here is a video with a report on the excursion of Vadim Malkovsky (in the description of the video there is a link to his blog - you can see a detailed photo report about the excursion to the Bazhov Park.

GPS coordinates of the bell tower in Zlatoust: 55.133479, 59.671353.

Coordinates of the Bazhov Mountain Park: 55.134038, 59.669376.

Working hours: from 10:00 to 19:00.

3. Observation deck "Black Rock" in the National Park "Taganay"

My hobby for weekend trips around the Urals began with a two-day hike in the Taganai Mountains. We have been here twice in the summer, twice in the fall, and now in the winter (or in the spring, depending on how you relate to our Ural weather). In the "Weekend Hikes" section, you can read a detailed guide on how to get there, see a route map and a table of distances for walking for one, two or more days.

The last time I visited Taganay was in the fall of 2016. With guests from St. Petersburg and the Baltic states, we arrived in the Chelyabinsk region to climb the Dvukhlavaya volcano and marvel at the terrifying sinkholes at the site of titanium-magnetite mines (Magnitsky faults). Then we were not lucky with the weather: because of the fog that covered the Black Rock, we did not manage to see the mesmerizing panorama of the Otkliknoy Ridge Mountain. They hoped that it would be possible to do this now, but in the heavenly office they decided differently ...

Over the year and a half that has passed since the last excursion to the Black Rock, a checkpoint and ticket offices have been set up here. The entrance is now paid: 100 rubles from outsiders, 50 rubles from residents of Zlatoust.

The route to the Black Rock is just right for elderly tourists and children: walk only 600 meters in one direction, if you move clockwise, you will not have to climb a hill anywhere. In a word, relaxation. And the nature here is real: dense, like on the main routes of the Taganay Park.

I already photographed this "bench with a view to nowhere" on a foggy autumn morning in 2016. Now here, too, the view of the Responsive Ridge is hidden from it by the natural elements. Perhaps we need to start a tradition: every time I come to the Chelyabinsk region to see the sights, I will take pictures of this bench.

If you are lucky, and there will be no other tourists on the Black Rock at the time of your excursion (and for this, I think you need to come here either early in the morning or in the late afternoon), from the observation deck there are such wild views that are somewhat reminiscent of scenes from the thriller.

When I just started my passion for photography, I thought that shooting in bad weather is not interesting: no sun - no picture. Now I understand that bad weather makes the pictures drama. For example, here is a view of the taiga from the top of the Black Rock. There's a responsive crest somewhere. Now he is not there, only "white flies" ... But an interesting shot, isn't it?

The picture above is a panorama captured in “Photoshop»From 9 vertical frames. Photographed hand-held, without a tripod. Here's another panorama shot in the same way.

Having admired the views (I generally stood at the cliff for about 10 minutes, closing my eyes and listening to the snowflakes falling), we slowly return to the parking lot. Another observation deck was built 200 meters below, from which one can already observe the Black Rock itself.

The blizzard played out stronger. The snow was already blinding my eyes. Mount Black Rock is located at an altitude of 753 m above sea level - the nature here is harsher than below, even in the same Zlatoust. If you are planning your excursion to Taganai, dress warmly and take suitable shoes - it was funny to watch the mothers in high heels dragging the sleds with the kids ...

GPS coordinates for navigator: 55.273583, 59.699077.

Ticket price: 100 rubles per person.

Attraction opening hours: probably around the clock - although I don't know if there is security there at the end of the working day.

4. Excursions to interesting places in Satka and its surroundings

According to the plan of our trip, we wanted to spend the night in Satka, as well as during a trip to the sights of the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria on the May holidays in 2015. Both in the town itself and in its surroundings there are many interesting places that are easy to get to.

Monument to Sergo Ordzhonikidze and Satka iron-smelting plant

At first I wanted to take a photo of the monument to Stalin: I read that Satka is one of the few cities where there is such a monument. For some reason I was sure that the sculpture I needed was on the bank of the pond near the Satka Iron Smelting Plant.

However, I was mistaken, a mustachioed comrade on a pedestal - another famous revolutionary: Sergo Ordzhonikidze. And Stalin is (according to information from the Internet) at the address: st. Bocharova, 10.

There is some dark story. On the Internet, you can find news that the monument to a man whose personality, even 66 years after his death, divides Russian society, used to stand in the village of Taiginka in Kyshtym. But in 2010 he was stolen, and later he "surfaced" in the city of Kasli. And then they found him in Satka.

If I enter the Street View service to “GoogleKartakh "and typing the address: Chelyabinsk Region, Satka, Bocharova Street, 10 - you can find that the Generalissimo is standing in the courtyard of the Zyuratkul (Sonya Laguna) complex.Gps-coordinates: 55.038489, 59.030894. I hope that among the readers there will be either residents of the city or tourists who have been there, and in the comments they will tell you where to find Joseph Vissarionovich Stalin in Satka now.

The entertainment complex "Sonkina Laguna" was built by the entrepreneur Yuri Titov, who owns the "Zyuratkul" gas station complex, a hotel and a restaurant. I have already shown unusual sculptures from there in my report on my trip to the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria in May. At the same time he showed the "mysterious island" - the hollow of an eagle. In winter, it looks even more sinister.

Such is the Klondike of interesting places in a single small town of the Chelyabinsk region can be found. I take the last picture of the "Satka iron-smelting plant" and set off to look for the Karagai quarry.

Photo 15. The operating "Iron Smelting Plant" in Satka. Next to it you can see the monument to Sergo Ordzhonikidze, Vissarion Stalin and Vasily Terkin, "Sonya Lagoon" and "The Hollow of the Eagle". Travel report to the Chelyabinsk region from Yekaterinburg. 1/1000, 4.0, 400, 200.

Watch the video, which shows how the "Sonya Lagoon" and "The Hollow of the Eagle" looks like. Only if you are planning to go there with children, it is better to read the reviews: apparently, the owner of the complex has a very specific sense of humor ...

Karagay quarry in Satka

Another place that I wanted to see in this South Ural town is an old, but active, magnesite quarry. Ore began to be mined here back in 1900, and now a hole 1.5 km long, 1.1 km wide and 0.37 km deep has been dug.

Reading the stories of tourists, I still did not understand if it was possible to get there officially, and if there was an equipped observation deck for visitors. I asked the guys for the GPS coordinates, they gave me such a point (55.039167, 58.991928) with the words of parting words: "You will reach Kuibyshev Street, and there you will walk 500 meters."

At the intersection of Kuibyshev and 50 Years of the Komsomol Streets there is a checkpoint (behind it trucks with ore are constantly scurrying around) and a garage array. They asked a passer-by if it was possible to get to the observation deck, and he replied: "Look, go through the garages", - waved his hand towards the complex, - "There must be a path." We go there, but we cannot find a path, and it’s not a hunt to trudge through the snow without special shoes and clothes - there is depth up to the waist.

Yes, and this is where I was wrong: when you look at the Karagai quarry on satellite maps, it seems that you can calmly approach the edge. In fact, it is surrounded by huge waste heaps up to several tens (if not hundreds) meters high. We decide to leave the mine for another time, and now we are going to see another interesting attraction of Satka - the Hammer and Sickle monument on a hill on the outskirts of the city.

How the Karagai quarry looks like can be seen in the video. It's a little too long - look from 5:56 onwards.

Monument "Hammer and Sickle" in Satka - a man-made landmark of the Chelyabinsk region

This miracle is located at the address: Chelyabinsk region, the city of Satka, st. Vtoraya Rechnaya, 15, GPS coordinates: 55.040795, 58.967274. The navigator (on this trip to the South Urals, as always, we used the application on the Maps.me smartphone, which works without an Internet connection) brought us back to some garages - they look very colorful.

Photo 16. On the way to the Hammer and Sickle monument in Satka. What interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region can be seen by car. Weekend route. 1/800, 6.3, 400, 280.

We left the car and go up the hill, on which a huge stele rises. From the top of the city - as in the palm of your hand (more precisely, the microdistrict near the recreation center "Magnezit").

Photo 17. Contemporary graffiti in Satka. How we travel by car in the Chelyabinsk region. The route of the trip. Report of tourists from Yekaterinburg. Let's go watch Hammer and Sickle. 1/640, 6.3, 560, 280.

In the distance, a waste heap rises, encircling the Karagai quarry. When I asked a passing boy how to get to the observation deck, he pointed to this earthen mountain: “My friends and I always climb there. There is the best view! "

Photo 18. Landscapes of Satka. Report on travels by car to interesting places in the Southern Urals. How we were looking for the Hammer and Sickle monument. 1/400, +0.33, 9.0, 800, 165.

I cannot find information about who and when created this monument. It would be interesting to know the history of this attraction.

Photo 19. The monument "Hammer and Sickle" in Satka amazes the imagination with its scale and originality. Reviews of tourists about a trip by car to interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region. 1/320, +0.33, 9.0, 400, 86.

While we were admiring the monument, there was no one around at all. Only a lonely dog ​​watched in bewilderment two strange people who came from nowhere to photograph the art object that has long become common for all Satka residents.

Photo 20. One of the local residents of Satka. Reviews of tourists about a trip to interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region. In the vicinity of the Hammer and Sickle monument. 1/1000, +0.33, 3.2, 400, 95.

Until the sun went down, we make one more attempt to get into the Karagai quarry, having traveled around the waste heap by car. There is also a checkpoint, we did not drive up to it. But they shot a panorama of the city pond, the "Satka iron-smelting plant" and the monument to Sergo Ordzhonikidze. Agree, the view is amazing!

Photo 21. View of the Satka Iron Smelting Plant. Below is a monument to Sergo Ordzhonikidze. On the right (not included in the frame) - the entertainment complex "Sonkina Laguna". 1/160, +0.67, 8.0, 1250, 70.

This photo was taken, approximately, from this point: 55.038320, 59.018273.

It's time to look for housing. We called several advertisements on Avito and rented an excellent three-room apartment with furniture and the necessary equipment for 1400 rubles.

Yes, advice for tourists who want to save money: on our road trips around the Urals, we almost always settle in apartments rented for rent. It will be more expensive in hotels, even if the price of the room is comparable. The fact is that then you have to spend money on trips to the restaurant. And in the apartment there are dishes, a stove, and a microwave oven. We went to the store, took cereals and sausages - a great and inexpensive dinner!

Trip to Tract Porogi

We slept well: each room has a huge double bed. The morning of March 25, 2018 was like this for me.

Photo 22. Dawn in Satka (I suspect, in the background - the Zyuratkul ridge). A wonderful morning in the Chelyabinsk region. Description of the route of the trip by car in the South Urals for two days. 1/200, -0.67, 8.0, 800, 82.

Today we have two options for the morning: visit the “Sokhatka” moose house ”in the“ Zyuratkul ”natural park, the Ice Fountain (like the moose farm, it is located in the vicinity of the Sibirka village) and see the Porogi tract. We decide first to jump back to the hydroelectric power station.

The sun has already risen higher. Passers-by rush about their business. I shoot the industrial landscape of the Chelyabinsk region.

Photo 23. Apparently, these are the cooling towers of the Magnezit plant. Review of the trip to the Porogi tract in the vicinity of the town of Satka, Chelyabinsk region. 1/500, 11.0, 400, 200.

The distance from Satka to the Porogi tract is 30 km, half of which is covered by a grader. Despite the fact that it snowed yesterday, it was cleaned well. We get there in 40 minutes, without ceasing to groan from the opening landscapes. The GPS coordinates of the hydroelectric dam are 55.280900, 59.134433.

Photo 24. The dam of the hydroelectric power station in the Porogi tract is one of the business cards Chelyabinsk region. This photo is an HDR of three frames taken hand-held on a Nikon D610 DSLR + Samyang 14mm f / 2.8 shirik. Settings: 1/1000, -0.67, 8.0, 400, 14.

The Porogi tract is located in a gorge formed by the Chulkov and Uary ridges. The place is very picturesque. True, it is a little sad here: the building of the ferroalloy plant was flooded by a meter with water, which is now frozen ... There is a sign on the gate that until 2015 a local resident watched it for free. Now he is dead and the UNESCO site is on the brink of extinction. The neighboring hostel "Porogi" is for sale. It is highly likely that soon this attraction will not remain on the map of the Chelyabinsk region ...

House of the moose "Sokhatka" and the Ice Fountain in the national park "Zyuratkul"

In the "Weekend Hikes" section, you can also read a report on the ascent in mid-December 2016 to the Zyuratkul ridge. In the same place I showed a photo report about an excursion to the maral farm "Bear Joy" (there are red deer and wild boars) and the House of Elk "Sokhatka". The first is at the checkpoint in the village of Magnitsky, the second is at the checkpoint in the village of Sibirka. But then I was traveling with friends, my wife did not go. And now she wanted to see with her own eyes both the elk and the fountain.

The house of the moose "Sokhatka" is located on the cordon "At three peaks". You get into it through a checkpoint in the village of Sibirka (you buy a ticket, which is also valid for entry from Magnitsky). On the way to Sibirka (26 km from Satka, and, it seems, 11 km by grader from the M5 highway), there is such a view of Mount Bolshoy Uvan (1122 meters above sea level) - one of the attractions of the Zyuratkul National Park, where walking route.

Photo 25. Mount Bolshoy Uvan in the national park "Zyuratkul" - one of the attractions of the Chelyabinsk region. Weekend trip by car. 1/640, -0.33, 8.0, 1100, 280.

I forgot to tell that 2 days before the trip in the news on the federal TV channel they showed a report from the House of the Elk "Sokhatka" and noted that in the spring the elks were already released into the forest. On the same day I called the administration of the park: “No, they haven't released the elk ones yet. Later. True, the Ice Fountain collapsed yesterday ... ”Oh, what a pity! This winter he was very tall and handsome in "Zyuratkul". I thought I would please you with pictures of this attraction. And so - only the ice ruins ...

Photo 26. We arrived at the Ice Fountain in the Zyuratkul Park on March 25, 2018, and on March 24, it turned out, it collapsed ... Interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region. A weekend trip across the South Urals.

Though ice miracle could not resist, we visited it anyway with pleasure. Forest. Sun. Rainbow. Turquoise color of frozen water. The beauty!

Here is a video of what this "icicle" looked like in 2016.

Moose house "Sokhatka" in the Chelyabinsk region

I don’t remember exactly how long it was to go from the Ice Fountain to the At Three Summits cordon - it seems about 5 kilometers. Here we leave the car, pay 50 rubles for feeding the moose and hurry to the elk. Tip: Take a carrot or cabbage from home. You cannot feed animals with bread - they will get sick. Preparing for our tour of the Chelyabinsk region in early March, we bought as many as 5 bags of carrots! Do you know how the moose reacted?

- Phew, we don't eat that. Give us the bark of the trees.

- Yes, kids, where to put these carrots now? We don't have rabbits at home! Should you gnaw yourself?

- Well, we don’t know. Eat yourself.

Photo 27. Prongs in the House of Elk "Sokhatka". Bring a present for its inhabitants with you. Interesting places in the Chelyabinsk region, where you can go with children. The route of a car trip for two days. 1/640, -1.33, 4.0, 400, 31.

- Well, maybe you want some cabbage? We took her too. True, not white, but Chinese, for salads.

- Oh, we love this, we do not adhere to any chauvinistic views. Let's! We are ready to eat at least one week.

Photo 28. Elks in the Chelyabinsk Region. Reviews of the trip to the park "Zyuratkul". 1/1600, -1.0, 4.0, 400, 44.

Of course, there was a joke about carrots: the moose ate it up, and there was a crunch. Only the woman caring for the animals said it was better to cut the vegetables into smaller pieces.

Photo 29. Moose - they are so cute! A story about a trip to the House of Elk "Sokhatka" in the village of Sibirka. Excursion to the national park "Zyuratkul" of the Chelyabinsk region.

If you are going to the Zyuratkul park, I advise you to read my previous reports. There you can read stories about climbing the ridge "Zyuratkul", a description of the route to other peaks. I myself want to someday climb the highest peak of the Chelyabinsk region, Mount Nurgush (height 1406 m). This is how this hulk looks like from a clearing near the At Three Peaks cordon.

Photo 30. What interesting things can you visit in the Chelyabinsk region? Zyuratkul National Park! Climb Mount Nurgush, at the same time see the elk. 1/1250, -0.67, 11.0, 400, 100.

In the park "Zyuratkul" you can book a house and settle for a few days. Convenient for labor photographers who would like to shoot a panorama of Nurgush or Bolshoy Uvan at regular time.

Photo 31. Elk antlers near one of the houses on the cordon "At Three Peaks" in the national park "Zyuratkul". Description of the weekend route for a trip across the Chelyabinsk region. 1/4000, -0.67, 280, 135.

Well, the clock is ticking. We still need to have a snack somewhere else (we had to go back towards Chelyabinsk - there is a large hotel and restaurant complex "Zyuratkul") and have time to go to the Bashkir village of Idrisovo, in the vicinity of which there is a cave where the people's hero of Bashkortostan Salavat Yulaev once hid ...

Photo 32. Views at the cordon "At three peaks" in the national park "Zyuratkul". Mount Big Uvan. I can't imagine how to climb it in winter - with such a slope. And tourists do go ... 1/1000, 11.0, 4.0, 400, 112.

The video above (13:30) tells about the excursion to the Sokhatka Elk House. And in the video below, you can see in 4K what open spaces open up from the height of Mount Bolshoy Uvan in the Zyuratkul park.

5. Idrisovskaya cave on the border of the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria

The original travel plan involved visiting three caves located in the area of ​​the beautiful South Ural town of Ust-Katav: Ignatievskaya, Serpievsky cave castle (a little further away there is a complex of Sikiyaz-Tamak caves). Now it became clear that we will have time to see only one attraction - we chose Idrisovskaya, since the photos from here are the most interesting (like from a palace).

33. Map with a diagram of how to get to the Idrisovskaya cave, which is located on the border of the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria (in fact, it is located on the territory of the neighboring republic).

Let's look at the map. You can get to the village of Idrisovo in the Salavatsky district of Bashkiria along the M5 highway, through Yuryuzan and Ishimbaevo, turning in Sharlash towards Kropachevo. We did not take this route because of the large number of trucks on the road. Although, if I remember correctly, this site is one of the most picturesque: in the Yuryuzan region, a view of the highest mountain of the Southern Urals, Big Yamantau, opens up.

If there was more time, we would have driven along the Satka - Bakal section. Firstly, somewhere on this road, a view of the Zyuratkul ridge opens up (I saw photo reports with excellent photographs). Secondly, in Bakal at 9 Lenin Street (GPS coordinates: 54.937633 58.809672) there is a picturesque dilapidated miners' culture house - like from the game "Silent Hill". And, thirdly, 15 km from Satka is Mount Iruskan, the village of the same name and several quarries. I was interested in Gaevsky and Alexandrovsky with colored walls. Didn't hit either.

We decided to get to the Idrisovo Cave along the route "Satka - Mezhevoy - Lakly - Nasibash - Alkino - Idrisovo - Idrisovskaya Cave". Please note that in those parts there is still one village Idrisovo - do not confuse it: you need the one that is located by the Yuryuzan River. And, besides, on Google maps it is indicated, for some reason, the Idrisovo tract (at least, not the village where we got). Therefore, here are the GPS coordinates of the village (the point where they left the car): 55.049405, 58.127280. And here is the Idrisovskaya cave: 55.042221, 58.150367.

The road from Satka to Idrisovo is at first asphalted, then after 50 kilometers - unpaved, and is poorly cleaned of snow. It was even uncomfortable to drive a little.

But beauty! Somewhere in the Lakly region you pass a narrow gorge, as if you feel yourself in the Caucasus. Then the hills overgrown with birch groves begin ... Looking ahead: the navigator took us back to Yekaterinburg either through Vakiyarovo, or through Mezhevaya, but there the road runs along the river with very, very beautiful rocks. I just want to get out of the car and wander on foot with a backpack through those hills and valleys.

Well, okay, let's go back to the description of the route to the Idrisovskaya cave. After the P242 road we turn at the sign to Idrisovo - 6 km of an unpurified but trampled road. We arrive at the village, it stands on the Kluklya stream.

We drove on the Maps.me navigator, and in Idrisovo he made us turn left, up a hill - there the broken road ended, then there was a path gradually disappearing into a birch grove (he suggests turning to this point: 55.052705, 58.132084). The cave is 2 kilometers away. At the same time, before the trip, I studied Google maps and remember that you can drive up by car directly to the bank of the Yuryuzan - it means that the aunt is dragging us from the navigation system to the wrong place.

We return back to this crossroads (GPS coordinates: 55.049383, 58.127308) and notice an inconspicuous sign "Salavat Cave". The road is covered with snow, only traces of an ATV. We decide to leave the car and go on foot - the same 2 kilometers.

Spring, forest, fresh air. We charge the energy batteries again. First, we move along the Kluklya stream, then cross the bridge to the other side and sharply climb the hill. Further - the most beautiful section of the trail: on the left - a rock, on the right - a gully overgrown with a light-colored birch grove, illuminated in a spring-like, perky sun. Somewhere in the sky, a raven croaks. The wind rustles with the tops of the trees. Titmouse dinks like spring. Mmmm, such a walk can only be dreamed of!

Finally, we go to the shore. Here in the summer - car parking. There are some painted sheds - apparently, in summer or spring, those tourists who float down the Yuryuzan River on catamarans make a stop at the Idrisovskaya Cave, and the locals organize a “club” and a “car shop” for them.

It is not clear where to go. Something similar to a cave can be seen on the right (this is upstream of the Yuryuzan). But this is definitely not the "balcony" of the Palace (this is how the Idrisovskaya Cave is also called in reports on the Internet).

Photo 34. A rock at the confluence of the Klyuklya stream into the Yuryuzan river. The views are beautiful there, but the Idrisovskaya cave is behind me. Report on a car trip in the Chelyabinsk region. 1/800, +0.33, 9.0, 400, 44.

We turn to the left of the "houses", we see a boardwalk and some kind of information board.

Photo 35. How to get to the Idrisovskaya cave? From the "houses" go down the Yuryuzan river. Stories of tourists about weekend trips in the South Urals. 1/1000, +0.33, 9.0, 400, 36.

Come closer. The trail goes steeply upward (although this is not very conveyed in the pictures). The sign says that we are in the Yangan-Tau geological park near the Idrisovskaya cave. But I do not see its characteristic "gates". We stumble in indecision, we go down even further downstream - and now, it seems, she is!

Photo 36. Three windows of the Idrisovskaya cave, located on the border of Bashkiria and the Chelyabinsk region on the banks of the Yuryuzan River. Reviews of travel by car yourself. 1/320, +0.33, 9.0, 400, 27.

Photo 37. Entrance to the Idrisovskaya cave and windows ... Reviews of tourists on car trips to the Chelyabinsk region and Bashkiria. 1/250, -0.67, 9.0, 400, 66.

We climb along the path that is next to the pointer. Such a palace appears at a height of 45 meters.

Photo 38. Idrisovskaya cave is also called the Palace. Report on the trip to the South Urals. A panorama of five vertical shots taken hand-held. 1/320, -0.67, 9.0, 400, 24.

I go inside, and my heart sanks with delight: here they are, those views that I dreamed of photographing for so long (I wanted to go to the Idrisovskaya cave 2 years ago, but it was stopped by the remoteness of this sight of Bashkiria from Yekaterinburg).

Photo 39. Views from the grotto of the Idrisovskaya Cave upstream of the Yuryuzan River. Nikon D610 camera, Samyang 14 mm f / 2.8 lens. HDR from three frames. 1/250, -0.67, 9.0, 160, 14.

The cave, next to Idrisovo (in Bashkiria, it is called Iuris, other names: Krasnopolskaya, Kissyatash, Palace) were described in 1770 by the naturalist and traveler from Germany Peter Simon Pallas, who served at the St. Petersburg Academy of Sciences.

Bashkiria, according to the official historiography of Russia, was peacefully reunited with the Russian Empire. Only now the people's hero of Bashkortostan Salavat Yulaev is honored for the fact that he personally led the capture of the Simsky and Katavsky factories, besieged the Chelyabinsk fortress and Orenburg, burned the fortress in Krasnoufimsk, stormed Kungur. So, according to folk legends, Salavat Yulaev with his squad in 1774 hid from the punitive detachments of Catherine II in the Idrisovskaya cave, which is why it is also called the Salavat cave.

Photo 40. View from the Idrisovskaya Cave downstream of the Yuryuzan River. Snapshot - HDR of three frames. Nikon D610 camera, Nikon 24-70mm f / 2.8G lens. 1/50, 8.0, 320, 24.

In the video below you can see what an excursion with children to the Idrisovskaya Cave looks like in the summer.

A narrow manhole leads deep into the cave - there, according to tourists, there are two large halls. In general, the length of the Kisyatash passages is 93 meters, with an average width of 3.8 meters and a height of 2.6 meters. The amplitude of the strokes is 10 meters. The entrance to the cavern is at a height of 45 m above the Yuryuzan level.

Well, the last look at the gorgeous view of Bashkir nature, and it's time to return to the car that awaits us in Idrisovo.

This was the end of the entertaining part of our journey. Looking at the map, we painfully decided which way to return to Yekaterinburg: drive further along the M5 towards Ufa and turn in the city of Sim to Yangantau and Mesyagutovo, and then to Krasnoufimsk - there will be guaranteed asphalt, but you make a detour. Return to Chelyabinsk and rush home along a two-lane highway - the road at the first section is loaded with trucks.

Navigator Maps.me strongly advises to go north to Novobelokatay and Mikhailovsk. I don't want to trust him: I remember how the bridge was being repaired in Sima and, in order not to get stuck in traffic jams, I decided to go to Mesyagutovo through Karaidel - then I had to drag 50 km along the dirt road through the dense taiga.

But the path that the navigation system offers now is the shortest: the distance between the village of Idrisovo and Yekaterinburg is 355 km. Ay, was - was not, we risk!

The road for a trip in winter turned out to be not bad: mostly asphalt, there was a grader for 50 kilometers, but cleaned and without holes (I was driving 80 km / h). We were at home already at 22:30, that is, we got there in 5.5 hours, and everything that happened to us during these two days began to seem like a fairy tale or a pleasant dream. It is in our power to make these dreams repeat themselves ...

Conclusion to the report on travel to the sights of the Chelyabinsk region by car

Well, today we have learned what natural and man-made sights you can see in two days. We now know how to get to the Black Rock, the Porogi Tract, where to feed the moose and where the Ice Fountain is located. We saw the Idrisovskaya Cave, where the Bashkir field commander Salavat Ilaev spent his days.

Some organizational information:

  • The mileage of the car in two days is 1071 km.
  • Diesel consumption at average values ​​of 9.5 liters per 100 km is 102 liters.
  • Fuel costs - 4300 rubles.
  • Housing costs - 1400 rubles.
  • Food costs - 300-600 rubles at a time for two.

P.S. 1. If you have not yet subscribed to the notifications of new blog articles, you can do this through the subscription form below. Not often, but from time to time I will publish other reports, and you will not miss them. Good trips and lots of them vivid impressions while traveling!

P.S. 2. Have you watched the cartoon "Bobik Visiting Barbos"? Here is a documentary on the same topic.