An abandoned military settlement in the Kola district of the Murmansk region. Included in the rural settlement Teriberka.
According to the 2010 census, the population of the village was 6 people.
Now it is abolished due to the absence of a permanent population.
I do not know whether it would be appropriate to place my story about the tragedy that occurred in October 1989 on Kildin Island here or not, you judge. But since he began to talk about the island, then this story cannot be kept silent. This little story of mine will be based on the recollections of direct participants in those real events. Surnames and names are not fictitious, but slightly changed for aesthetic reasons. Except for one - Captain 3rd Rank Fost Dmitry Ivanovich, who bravely fulfilled his officer's duty. I will also omit the unit numbers.
On the eve of the celebration of the Day of the Constitution of the USSR on October 7, 1989, a fire broke out at the armament depot of one of the military units. After its liquidation, an audit was appointed at the warehouse, as a result of which a shortage of 4 assault rifles, bayonet knives for them, a box of F-1 grenades, two zinc cartridges (1800 pcs) was revealed. And with a careful study of the reasons that caused the fire, traces of deliberate arson of the warehouse were revealed, as well as the intent to cover up the traces of theft itself by an explosion of ammunition. Namely, a container from under a flammable liquid, the remains of a candle and a grenade with a ring pulled out and a check attached to the fuse with electrical tape. That is, as the candle burns out, the flame should have spread to the fuel, then burned the electrical tape at the ignition. And from the subsequent explosion of the grenade - detonate the ammunition stored in the warehouse, and then ... more ... more ... and more. stay at all. If you do not assume more ... The alarm was also turned off, there were traces of sawing the lock shackle.
The incident was immediately reported to the authorities, after which representatives of the KGB, the military prosecutor's office, and the command arrived on the island. The personnel of the garrison were put in a barracks position. Two APCs entered Kildinskaya Salma, the sailors and officers from whom they began to systematically comb the environs of the warehouse and the entire island. The scam was serious, but in vain. There were no traces of weapons. When inspecting the scene of the incident, pieces of electrical tape, a hacksaw for metal with special marks, a small piece of paper with traces of fresh blood were found near the warehouse.
On October 11, during the lunch break, when representatives of the RO KGB and the command departed for lunch. Before leaving for lunch, the command announced to the crew that there would be a general formation after it for examination for wounds or other injuries. And one of the employees of the prosecutor's office managed to obtain a confession statement from the signalman OA Andriyanov, who turned off the alarm at the time of the theft of the weapon. He named the direct participants in the crime: foreman 1 of article Pavlenko and senior sailor Nurutdinov.
Unfortunately, information that Andrianov split and surrendered his accomplices very quickly spread among the garrison. Realizing that they had been exposed, Pavlenko and Nurutdinov left the unit's location, took weapons and ammunition hidden in the dump under Cape Byk. After that, they headed towards the pier, in order to get unnoticed on any vessel. However, their plans were not destined to come true. An armed officer's post was set up on the pier in advance. Then Pavlenko and Nurutdinov did not come up with anything better than to seize a car and, against the background of the general turmoil, drive to the pier located on Vostochny Kildin.
Along the seashore, they went unnoticed to the Lower Residential Town, where at that time a ZIL-131 car with boxes of vegetables and barrels of pickles loaded in the back was parked at the house. Under threat of weapons, they threw the young driver out of the car, after which they entered the entrance of a residential building in order to take the wife of the Kilda special officer hostage. But she was not at home, and the wife of Lieutenant Mizin, Julia, came out of the next apartment to knock. Mizin himself at that time was on vacation in Sevastopol, and Yulia was not allowed to go with him, because I just got a job as a librarian in a unit. (Many sailors and officers specially signed up for the library to talk to Yulia. What a special beauty was the hostess)
Having got into the cab of the car, together with the hostage they proceeded towards Kildin Vostochny past the pier with the floating craft standing on it. At this time, the search for Pavlenko and Nurutdinov began in the unit. After the driver reported the car theft, an alarm was raised and all parts of the island were alerted. All women and children were gathered in isolated rooms, armed guards were assigned to them. Since the road to Vostochny was also blocked by setting up an armed post, the criminals, according to the old military road, through the hills, headed towards the combat positions of the OBRP. After some time, the car appeared in the area of the car park, and from there the criminals headed towards the upper residential town. Unfortunately, the delay in notification due to the lack of mobile communications they were not allowed to notify the screen placed in the area of the "Voenkora". As a result, the car with the criminals and the hostage, having freely passed the upper town, came to the screen from an unexpected side. Having approached at low speed, we broke through the screen and headed down. Fire was opened after them. Hearing the shots, the commander ordered the armed groups to take positions in the area where the unit was located. The group commanders were ordered to use weapons only in a situation ensuring the safety of the hostage. Going down directly, bypassing the serpentine, the car at a slow speed drove through the economic territory of the unit and headed towards the lower town. At the turn of the road to the residential buildings, there was a barrier, the officers of which demanded to stop, get out of the car, lay down their arms and surrender. ... Ignoring the demand to stop, the criminals increased their speed, and, firing at the open window from a machine gun, throwing grenades broke into the side of the pier. Following the car, machine-gun fire was opened. At the beginning of the descent of the road to the pier, there was a barrier of conscripts at the head of the midshipman. Trying to stop the car, Warrant Officer G. Boris jumped on the passenger side of the car. Pavlenko, who was sitting at the door, put a machine gun out of the open window and opened fire. Falling from the running board, warrant officer Gamko B. returned pistol fire. Unsighted shots through the rear wall of the cockpit, Pavlenko was wounded. Under heavy fire from sailors and officers, Nurutdinov increased speed and directed the car to the pier. At that moment, a grenade without a pin fell out of the wounded Pavlenko's hand and exploded on the floor of the cockpit. Nurutdinov lost control and the car crashed into the concrete slabs laid by the builders at the checkpoint of the berth. Negotiations began with Nurutdinov. The negotiations were conducted by Captain 3rd Rank Fost Dmitry Ivanovich, remaining in one shirt, demonstrating the absence of weapons, settled down on the hood of the wrecked car. He managed to persuade Nurutdinov to allow the killed Pavlenko and Julia Mizina, who was wounded in the head, to be taken out of the cab. Julia was immediately sent by car to the upper town in the 75th infirmary. On the way, she died of blood loss. The negotiations lasted for about an hour and a half. All this time he was holding a grenade without a pin in his hand. Fost managed to convince Nurutdinov, in exchange for the Makarov pistol, to throw a grenade into the sea. However, even here Nurutdinov showed cunning, refused the proposed barrel, demanded another. When he received the required (PM) and threw out a grenade, he was twisted. He wanted to shoot from the PM, but he was also specially trained.
At this time, due to the lack of normal communication and notification, the sentry, guarding the technical territory on the tower by the road, fired at the water carrier, which was going to residential building... The senior of the vehicle was wounded by a single submachine gun shot.
Not without overlays. From one of the posts there was information that the fire was also fired back from the back of the car, and then a man in civilian clothes jumped from there with a submachine gun and disappeared into the hills. The rumor about the presence of the fourth criminal arose after the participants of the barrier at the lower town thought that someone jumped out of the body of the car that had burst out and disappeared into the darkness. In the morning, a special group was delivered to the island by helicopter, which included Ya. Together with the garrison servicemen, we “chased the shadow” for two more days. The unit commander, despite the short-term tenure, was removed by order of the USSR Ministry of Defense and was appointed chief of artillery to another. The surviving criminals Nurutdinov and Andrianov were convicted.
Excerpts from the forum:
- I was at the trial in Polyarny, Nurutdinov was sentenced to 8.5 years, Andriyanov was sentenced to 4.5 years in a penitentiary, Ilkiev the pig, where they practiced with a candle, were released to the DMB. They set fire to the warehouse on 6.10.89. 11.10.89. events. You correctly write that you caught them on the wound of Nurutdinov's hand when he opened the zinc. The cartridges were found in the blood and they began to examine HP;
- in the continuation of the story (really terrible): - Lieutenant Mizin drank for several months after this incident, almost dropped. was a young officer, besides, they say he could not look at the sailors.
- There was a plate with a fused candle, diesel fuel and three grenades. It's good that it didn't detonate. There was about 800 kg of TNT in the warehouse, next to 50-100m under open air missile warheads of about 500 kg each. The missile refueling site was also not far away. If it had all exploded, there probably would have been nothing left of the village
-Nurutdinov, when opening zinc with cartridges, cut his hand and wiped it off with paper that was found when combing the island. In the evening, they lined up and the command conducted an inspection ... and gave time for a frank confession ... And then Pavlenko and Nurutdinov lost their nerves and started off. They fired with traversing cartridges. But they didn't shoot. On the way to the pier, fire was opened on them and the "brave cowboy" midshipman G-o jumped on the bandwagon and fired several shots into the Zil's cabin. You know the result ... As the power steering was pierced by the bullet, the car crashed into a concrete slab. Why not indicate the sailor who turned off the warehouse alarm? Rank 3 Captain Fost has fulfilled his task. Well done! After this gimmick, one machine gun was found in the pipe of the stoker, a grenade was hung on the back of a water truck, a bunch of cartridges in the Zila air filter;
- I can say unequivocally, I know this topic well. The girl was killed by her own and not a midshipman from a pistol, maybe the hole in her head was from an automatic bullet, he personally examined it in the infirmary, yes, right here the guy said that the bullet entered the temple, the right one, and you can say it came out in the back of the head ... She was a beautiful girl, it's a pity that she died because of the carelessness of the commanders.
That guy, Pavlenko or whatever, he was also killed by an automatic bullet, the bullet entered his right side through his arm and exited through the other side, his leg was torn off, dangled on a tendon thread, there were no splinters on him, apparently a grenade did not explode as it should, because if a grenade exploded, everyone would definitely be ready in a car like a bunch of cars ... F-1 is not a firecracker ...
- I will add a little from memory - there were many violations on the island, including the storage of weapons of different categories in one storage (there was no fire, only a fire), the security system on the towers, it is not clear how the senior command staff managed to go on vacation at the same time, Tatarin yet this one .... The forum did not mention that this "real" driver, shortly before these sad events, put the URAL (tanker?) on a rock with its back to the cliff on the handbrake and demanded that the combatant send him to serve ashore ... In a word, at that time his pregnant wife was in Severomorsk. The leadership of the unit, at one time, went to meet the soldier and allowed him to see her a couple of times. But that was not enough for him ...
Of course, then everything was sorted out easier, Tartar was explained that it would take a long time to make such papers, but for now, please, here's a bottle of vodka. He drank, fell asleep, he was quickly pulled out of the car and ... that's all ... Nobody thought that a normal soldier would not think of such a thing, and even if he did, he would not buy vodka. Left to serve on the island - the paradox of carelessness, which became another brick in further events ...
That's where it was. The collapse of the State began, here and there the fires of interethnic conflicts flared up - Baku, Tbilisi, Riga, Sumgait, Chisinau, Nagorno-Karabakh, Frunze, Andijan and finally Osh. They were from Osh, and he was already blazing ...
Then there will be Transnistria, Chechnya, Tajikistan ...
Kildin Island.
Kildin Island, located off the Murmansk coast, a few miles east of the exit from the Kola Bay, has interested me all my life. I have been here many times, working on the Western and Eastern passenger lines, which for many years served the ships of the Murmansk shipping company... At all times of my work, I bit by bit collected all kinds of information about this amazing island, which covered the entrance to the Kola Bay, both in peacetime and in wartime. It is not for nothing that the second name of this island has become popular among the people - the unsinkable aircraft carrier of the Kola Bay. In general, I conducted my long-term investigation of the history of this island and the Kildinskaya Salma Strait, along which we very often passed, following in an easterly direction. What came of this is for my readers to judge. After all, Kildin Island is also a part of my life.
This is the largest of the islands lying off the Murmansk coast! The length of the island is 17.6 km, width is up to 7 km. The surface is a hilly plateau, up to 281 m high, composed of sandstones and shales, abruptly breaking off in the north and west and descending in wide terraces to the south and east. Tundra vegetation. There are three settlements on the island - East Kildin, West Kildin and Upper Kildin. The island is unique lake Grave, in which both marine and freshwater organisms live at the same time.
The island is a mystery! Everything is unusual in this island: name, geology, landscapes, lakes, history of development, inhabitants ...! It is not known, however, the meaning of the word - Kildin. Some researchers believe that it is untranslatable, others, which roughly corresponds to the Dutch "kilted" - "forbid" and, therefore, the name of the island can be interpreted as "Forbidden Place". But all this is just guesswork.
Kildin Island is replete with many anomalies, sights and mysteries. And the landscapes there are simply amazing. It is located near the mouth of the Kola Bay at the exit to the Barents Sea. The island has a special geological structure and landscapes, different from the mainland coast, similar to Novaya Zemlya. Nothing grows here, and there are no living creatures except fish and seagulls. In terms of its landscape, the island is a stratal elevated tundra plain. Trees do not grow here, and even man-planted trees do not take root. Only stones, hills overgrown with moss, and dwarf birches. Hurricane winds attack the coast from the Arctic Ocean.
Evidence of the anomalousness of Kildin is that even the auroras are the brightest above it and, surprisingly, surround it along the perimeter, at a time when the aurora is often not visible at all to the sides. I personally observed this more than once, since at least once or twice a month I had to see Kildin from the outside during my visits to the Mainland in the village of Granitny to the leadership of the Special Department and back.
The island has long wet winters and damp cold summers. In the short polar summer, even on the "hottest" days, the temperature barely reaches fifteen degrees. Even when the sky is cloudless over the sea, you can always see a thick "cap" of clouds over the island.
The island differs sharply from the mainland in its geological structure... The island is mountainous; the slopes of the mountains are gentle, in places covered with mosses and grass. The western and northern shores of the island are high and steep. The height of the northern coast is constantly decreasing from west to east. In the northeastern part of the island there is a deep canyon through which a stream flows. In several places in the north and south of the island, there are small waterfalls on the steep slopes. In the southeastern part of Kildin Island there is a convenient bay for anchorage of small ships - Mogilnaya Bay, known since the 16th century. The bay was first mapped by the Barents expedition in 1594. In the 17th-18th centuries. There were trades here Solovetsky Monastery.
To the east of the bay is Lake Mogilnoe, a relict lake formed about 2000 years ago. A natural mystery is Lake Mogilnoe, located in the southeastern part of the island. It is small in size: 560 meters long and no more than 280 meters wide. The lake is separated from the strait by a narrow strip of land. On bright summer evenings, the lake is unforgettably beautiful - pinkish clouds are reflected in the dark blue pool of stagnant water, framed by low banks overgrown with lush grass. The Mogilnaya Bay of the Kildin Island on the southeastern tip of the island became famous in the Middle Ages, when the ships of seafarers who were looking for a northern route to China and India defended here. This is how the Map of the Mogilnaya Bay and the environs of Jan Van Linschoten (1601) has been preserved. Shown lake Mogilnoe (with birds). On the site of the Lapp settlement, the Kildin Vostochny border outpost is now located.
Lake Mogilnoye is the most unique one on the island of Kildin, it is a relict lake with a chilling name "Mogilnoye", it is also called a five-story lake. At a shallow depth of the lake, about seventeen meters, there are five different layers of water that do not mix. According to this structure of the lake, that is, also, as it were, floor by floor, the underwater world of flora and fauna is distributed here. The layer located at the very bottom is saturated with hydrogen sulfide and is practically not inhabited. Above it is the most beautiful layer. In July-August, its water is colored cherry. It owes such an unusual color to the purple bacteria that live here, which "bloom" at this time of the year. The bacteria serve as a kind of shield, blocking the path upward of hydrogen sulfide rising from the bottom. The third layer is like a fragment of the Barents Sea. Even the salinity of the water in it is the same as in the sea. It is home to cod, sea bass, algae and starfish. However, in Mogilnoye they are several times smaller than their counterparts in the Barents Sea. The fourth layer is sea brine diluted with fresh water. Here is the kingdom of jellyfish and some crustaceans. At the surface there is a 4-5-meter layer of excellent fresh water... An unusual marine aquarium, a little more than 16 meters deep, has no partitions, and yet its inhabitants do not violate invisible boundaries and never migrate from one layer to another. How was the lake formed, how has such a layered balance been maintained in it for centuries? - a riddle over which more than one generation of scientists around the world is struggling. The lake is unique and, as I wrote above, consists of several layers: the top is fresh, the bottom is all killing hydrogen sulphide, and in the middle is salt water with marine fauna !!! The lake is inhabited by the rarest endemic species - the Kildin cod, listed in the Red Book of the Russian Federation, and the lake itself is a Federal Natural Monument. This section of the island, bay, cape and lake are called Mogilnye. Scientists still cannot solve the riddle of the miracle lake of the Kildin Island.
The October Revolution of 1917 took place in Murman quickly and bloodlessly. Already on October 26, 1917, at a meeting of the heads of organizations in Murmansk, a decision was made to support all decisions of the II All-Russian Congress of Soviets. And the chief chief of the Murmansk fortified area and the detachment of ships of the Kola Bay, Rear Admiral K.F. Ketlinsky, telegraphed to Petersburg that, with all the persons and institutions subordinate to him, he fully recognizes the power established by the All-Russian Congress of Workers 'and Soldiers' Deputies. As in all the encampments of Murman, an executive committee was organized on Kildin, which took over the life of the islanders.
But soon a civil war began and the military White Guard intervention that followed. Already in March 1918, Anglo-French, and a little later, American troops landed in Murmansk. The next two years were difficult years. Endless uprisings, strikes, arrests and executions made the life of an ordinary person dangerous, hungry and unpredictable. By the time the invaders left in August 1920, Murmansk, as its surviving inhabitants bitterly joked, represented "a city is not a city, a village is not a village." Life was no easier for the islanders at that time, however, unlike the residents of Murmansk, life there, although difficult, but quite peaceful. In March 1919, the head of the 1st stage of the Kildinsky school, teacher Dmitry Andreevich Kozyrev, informed the Aleksandrovsky district council that classes were going on as usual, “... on the island there are 20 school-age children, 130 people. The number of students of both sexes is 12 (boys - 4, girls - 8). Students are divided into two groups, since some can read and write a little, although they do not meet the requirements for admission to the secondary department. The school gives 28-29 lessons per week. " Among the students were the grandchildren of the Norwegian first settlers (Eriksen Alvilda Karlovna, Eriksen Alfred Albertovich, Eriksen Eysten Yalmarovich and Mikueva (Eriksen) Karolina Ivanovna).
In the XIX century. there was a project for the construction of a "megalopolis" on Kildin, but in the end only a young pair of Norwegians Eriksen moved to Kildin. Three generations of the Eriksen family lived on the island for about 60 years ... At the beginning of the 20th century, the regional authorities invested considerable sums in the island's infrastructure. At the same time, the Social Democrats settled on the island under the guise of fishermen and organized a warehouse and a transshipment point for the illegal shipment of literature from Norway to Arkhangelsk. In the early years of Soviet power, there were very ambitious plans for the development of the island. In a short time, a fishing artel, an iodine plant, a polar fox fur farm were formed on the island ... By the beginning of the war, the civilian population was resettled to different districts of the Murmansk region. Many members of the Eriksen family were repressed ...
After the establishment of Soviet power in the Arctic, collectivization began. A fish collective farm "Smychka" was created on Kildin, which soon became one of the exemplary ones on the entire Murmansk coast. But the calm life of the colonists did not last long. Already at the end of the 30s, all of them had to urgently leave the island that had become native ...
Then the military era of Kildin began, which lasted until the beginning of the 90s of the last century: observation and communication posts, the first in the USSR naval battery MB-2-180, air defense, first anti-aircraft guns, later missile systems, a coastal missile regiment, a frontier post and the necessary infrastructure to ensure all of the above ...
Today, as in the First World War, there are practically no inhabitants on Kildin. From military facilities - observation and communication posts ... But I still believe that someday the exhausted, forgotten and abandoned island will revive its former power!
The fauna of the island is represented by many species of birds, including those listed in the Red Book, and these are not only seagulls, but also birds of prey (buzzards, snowy owls). Of the rare plants, one can distinguish pink radiola - "golden root". This is general information about Kildin Island.
But my interest in Kildin lies in his connection with the GULAG. On Kildin, I was struck first of all by the lower stone road on which I once walked in 1968. What is this road? I have been looking for an answer for a long time. I read the memoirs of the military, searched the Internet ... Below, I want to report on some points connecting this unsinkable Russian aircraft carrier with the GULAG, namely, to show how the construction of an excellent stone road was started, which was supposed to connect two points - Kildin Zapadny and Kildin Vostochny, but they built only one "Golden Kilometer" named after Konstantin Rokossovsky ...
This road is laid along the southern coast of Kildin Island, connecting the eastern and western parts of the island. The name "road of life" was stuck behind the road. A section of the road 1 km long from the Chernaya river towards Vostochny Kildin is paved with smooth cobblestones, and the section is in the middle of the road. Some even compare it to Red Square ... But to lay out even a few tens of meters of road on the island with even stones is a hellish inhuman labor! This section of the "Kildinsky Autobahn" was named "Golden Kilometer" or "Rokossovsky Road" !!! It is strange that the "golden" kilometer begins with nothing and ends with nothing.
I saw a similar stretch of ideal cobblestone road again - in 1987. It is located on the right bank of the Yokanga River. Then, working as a captain on the ship "Alla Tarasova", I went with the crew on a boat to the mouth of the river for mushrooms. There I saw this road, which was very similar to the "golden kilometer of Rokossovsky". They said that this road was built during the war by captured Germans ... And this road led to the tundra - from the pier to the military airfield.
The road on Kildin Island was built according to all the rules: a slight slope to the edges of the road, ditches on both sides, footpaths strewn with broken slate. After the “golden kilometer” the road is made of large shale stones, sprinkled with small bits of shale chips. Who built this road and when? And how did the name of the great Victory Marshal Konstantin Rokossovsky come to be associated with the Kildin road?
And just recently, on the Internet, I found the following information: "Rokossovsky was sentenced to 10 years in the Gulag and sent to a camp in Norilsk" ??? So where did he actually serve his "sentence?" In Norilsk? Isn't it on Kildin?
I learned about the existence of the Kildin camp during a visit to the island in 1993. It is known that any historical event over time becomes overgrown with bearded rumors and legends. So the locals told me that there were two camps on Kildin: male and female. The men's camp consisted mainly of convicted generals ... I had heard about the construction of military facilities on Kildin in the pre-war years with the participation of prisoners, and I myself guessed about it. I heard that the prisoners were building a battery, roads, an airfield ... and other military facilities. The idea of creating a camp on Kildin arose back in the 1920s.
In 1926, the Chubarovites' case - the case of the gang rape of a girl - was widely publicized. The trial of the "Chubarovites" in December 1926 became a show trial. Before that, a wide campaign was launched in the press, newspapers published frank testimonies of the detainees ... Collective letters were immediately printed to the editor: “Hooligans - with a hot iron!”, “Only capital punishment can be for these criminals, bandits!”, “Severe by measures we will tear out a nest of beasts-hooligans from our Red Leningrad! " The concept of hooliganism began to be interpreted in an expanded manner, now almost all committed crimes were attributed to it. The city authorities seemed to wake up from hibernation and also spoke out for the death penalty for especially vicious hooligans, and in general, there is no place for punks in Leningrad! " At a meeting of the executive committee head. the administrative department, comrade Egorov indicated that the hooligans should be expelled. There was a project to refer them to the uninhabited island of Kildin, - wrote "Krasnaya Gazeta". But a few days later a letter came from an uninhabited island, where a resident of the island Kildin Kustov writes: “The island is the center of fishing for the population of the Murmansk coast. There is also a permanent population - about 100 people. The island is a reserve of white and blue foxes, with unique natural conditions... People there live only with hope for the future, because we don't have the present, we don't need your hooligans on Kildin either! "
Twenty-seven defendants, aged 17 to 25, stood trial in December. Seven were sentenced to death, the rest were sentenced to different terms of imprisonment in the Solovetsky special-purpose camp (SLON), two of the defendants were acquitted ... But, thank God, the Chubarovites never made it to the island of Kildin.
The western end of the road has a clearly laid out border, it can be assumed that this is the beginning of construction. This place is located just a few meters from the Chernaya river, and the road ends not far from the old water pumping station. Thus, the first version that came to mind was the construction of a road to supply water to East Kildin. According to local residents(1993) the head of the camp wanted to distinguish himself by building an exemplary facility on Kildin, but for some reason he could not finish what he had begun ... Another version: the road had to go to the camp. But where was the camp? Not finding an opportunity to go to the archives of the NKVD-MVD, the search for the Kildin camp was continued by me in the military archives ... On one of the detailed maps of the island in 1941, all the buildings on Kildin were marked. During the war, the card was labeled "TOP SECRET". The map shows everything, even the smallest buildings. Of the isolated buildings on East Kildin, only stoves for burning iodine along the coast, several separate huts in the northeast and 3 barracks near the Chernaya River, in the eastern part of the island, can be distinguished. It is possible that these 3 barracks were the Kildin camp ...? In favor of the eastern version of the location of the camp, legends are passed down by the people of Kildin by word of mouth. It is strange that the "golden" kilometer begins with nothing and ends with nothing.
There were many graves in the cemetery in the eastern part of the island, which in appearance can be attributed to the burials of camp prisoners: no stars, no crosses, dates of death 1939-1953, dates of birth 1900-1910 (approximately). The surnames were both male and female. It is known that in those years there were literally a few civilians on the island.
And yet I managed to find traces of the camp. The Central Naval Archives (TsVMA) in the documents of the 2nd Separate Artillery Division (2nd ode) contains the following information: “2 OAD of the Murmansk Stronghold (MUR) SF was created on the basis of the 10th MUR battery on the island of Kildin. Construction began in late 1935. Intensive construction of military facilities began on the island. It was mainly built by the prisoners of the Kildinsky camp of the 10th branch of the Belbaltlag. The history of this construction is still covered with a dense veil of secrecy. The main construction work was carried out by the Office of the Chief of Works No. 97 and 115 of the construction battalion. "
So, Chief of Work's Office # 97 is the typical official name of the camp! "In the spring of 1940, a 122-mm battery No. 191 on mechanical traction was formed, the place is East Kildin ... By this time, the construction of a dirt road for this battery began along the southern coast of the island." In May 1941, construction began on a concrete checkpoint (2 oad - DK). With the beginning of the war, the forced construction of a 130-mm open battery No.-827 began in the east of Kildin Island. They built at an accelerated rate l / s batteries and the construction of No.-97. It can also be assumed that the airfield in 1942 on Kildin was built by the forces of the Office of the Chief of Construction No. 97.
My assumptions that the Office of the Chief of Works No. 97 is the "Kildin camp" dispersed after one meeting with the veterans of the 97th construction - this was a division of the Engineering Service of the Federation Council. The Kilda veterans remembered well the “prisoner builders” who built the road: “... it seemed that they were all black: black clothes, black beards, black faces and eyes. They eagerly caught a glance of every person passing by, who, perhaps, reminded them of the distant life that they had before the camp ... "
I want to say a little about the village of Verkhniy Kildin. The beginning of the settlement of the "upper" Kildin in the western part of the island can be considered the First World War, when in 1914-1916. the first observation posts were created on the Kola Peninsula. Until 1935, all residents of Upper Kildin were represented only by the staff of the Kildin West post and lighthouses. At the end of 1935, construction began on the coastal battery, which consisted of two MB-2-180 towers. Battery staff: 191 people. On the basis of the battery, the 2nd separate artillery division was formed, which formed the basis of the island's infrastructure, as well as the main population of Upper Kildin for the next 15 years. Before the start of the war, the newly formed 6th separate anti-aircraft artillery division was transferred to the island. The main houses at that time were dugouts for personnel. In 1955, the oad was disbanded, but in the same year the construction of the coastal missile complex and the creation of the 616 Separate Coastal Missile Regiment began. To protect the infrastructure of the island and the approaches to the Kola Peninsula, an air defense battalion was deployed on the Western Kildin. The presence of the Separate Coastal Missile Regiment on the island is the heyday of West Kildin. In 1995, the regiment was withdrawn from Kildin ... At the moment, Upper Kildin is completely abandoned.
I have been to Kildin many times, since during the Soviet era the passenger ships on which I worked visited the Western and Eastern Kildin regularly. Over time, somewhere in the mid-seventies, the call to East Kildin was canceled. And on West Kildin the MMP ships entered until the beginning of the nineties. Here, sometimes, the captain allowed some crew members to disembark to collect cloudberries, lingonberries, or to pick mushrooms. I also remember those times when we moored to the pier. But it was only possible to moor at full tide and in good weather... Only V.I. Igaun was moored to this berth. on the "grandfather of the passenger fleet" - the steamer "Ilya Repin".
We moored to this pier only once in 1968 on my watch. It was necessary to urgently land the sick soldier ashore. In order not to wait for the boat, Captain V. Igaun, taking into account that the high tide had already come, moored the steamer "Ilya Repin" to this berth. The soldier was saved ...
I would like to cite here one more recollection of my good friend who served on the island: “And if you write about the service on the island, it was also unique. Everything went well for me, the inspectors from the fleet were happy. They planned to transfer me to Severomorsk for a promotion, since two years were running out, that is, the maximum service life on this island for operatives.
One of the spring days, the forty on my tail brought me the most awful news that the newly appointed head of the warehouses of artillery weapons, when accepting an emergency reserve warehouse ("NZ") with ammunition, by piecewise counting of weapons and ammunition, which were stored there unmeasured (he poorly counted two weeks , since he was outrageously meticulous) found a shortage of 2 pistols "PM" ("Makarov pistol"). According to the then existing canons, such information belonged to the category of "special importance", was immediately reported to the higher management and taken under strict control (at that time there were already attempts on the life of both cosmonauts and Brezhnev). The authorities were afraid of terror even then.
Immediately after the report to the management about the information received, a sea of bosses and inspectors flocked to my island. Some are really to provide assistance, who hoped to quickly reveal everything (where the weapons from the island, they say, will disappear) and earn medals, and who, to put me in the appropriate position (frames). In short, they began to "muck" me from all sides: our own, the prosecutor, the political department, representatives of the naval department, whose weapons were stolen by secret enemies. Many people know how supervising supervisors help us. And God forbid to be those whom they help. And the car started spinning ...
We started, as always, with the act of the last inspection of the NZ warehouse. Fortunately, the period was short - a couple of months. They searched everything: the guards, who visited the warehouses, sorted out all the "misunderstandings" such as records when handing over the guards about fuzzy seal prints, etc. Everything was under control: behavior, conversations, in general everything, everything. The mouse will not slip by unnoticed without our control. Everyone was under suspicion, some were already ready to confess ...
The curators stayed with me for about a month, which caused significant damage to my, though not modest (at that time) salary, tk. snacks and drinks were supposed to be from the culprit, that is, from me. But alas ... Neither supervising, nor intensive work, nor even evening summing up at the table and relieving stress brought no results, they did not even trace the kidnappers. The curators realized that there was no way to earn orders and quietly everything disappeared. At the same time, they made it clear that my promotion was covered, as well as transfer from the island in the near future, and if I don’t find pistols and they seriously surface somewhere, there may be more serious problems.
Having scratched the then still thick hair and honorably noted the departure of the high-ranking commission in the northern way, I rolled up my sleeves and began to look for intruders, already without the excitement that the curators created, but calmly, methodically - as we were taught. Based on the analysis of all the available information (which was really not enough in a month), I drew up a special grid plan, where I described, almost in seconds, the whole process from obtaining weapons from warehouses in Murmansk (and this was 8 years before my arrival to the island), delivery it on a barge to the island, unloading, etc., etc., and so on until the shortage is discovered. I found all the persons involved in all these operations. I was not too lazy to send requests to all the relevant territorial bodies of the KGB and the Ministry of Internal Affairs with a request to interview in detail everyone who, even in a small fraction, could come into contact with the ill-fated pistols, the NZ warehouse and our Island. I waited a long time for answers, sent reminders. And as in Pushkin's fairy tale "About the Fisherman and the Fish" he threw and threw the net, only not three times, but many, many times. I was looking forward to the answers, and they all brought only disappointment.
More than a year has passed since the discovery of a shortage of weapons. Hope melted ... And suddenly a response from St. Petersburg from the famous "Crosses", where one of the former sailors from the self-propelled Kildinskaya barge was safely steaming on prison bunks for committing some crime. During the interrogation of this former sailor (maybe even with bias), it turned out that these pistols had been stolen even during the delivery of weapons to the Island. And one of the kidnappers was this one who was serving a sentence for a crime (fortunately, without the participation of our "PMs"). The second kidnapper was also identified thanks to the testimony received. And everything turned out for them very simply. Before the departure of the barge, already loaded with weapons, the sea was stormy. That in these parts is not uncommon. The commander of the barge, midshipman, taking advantage of the opportunity provided by nature to linger on The big earth in Murmansk, quickly found a girlfriend in the city, and while it was storming, he also did not waste time with her. And two "demobels", mostly out of boredom and interest, neatly opened the hold, climbed in and began to pretend to be Rimbaud, putting on machine guns, machine guns, pistols ... At the same time, they captured everything in photos that were later found in their demob albums. After playing enough and having fun, they decided to take a pistol with them to civilian life, as in the movie "The Diamond Arm" - so "... just in case of fire." In order not to take risks, they hid the pistols in the hold, in case if a shortage of pistols was discovered when they were storing them in the NZ warehouse, they would have safely “found” them in the hold. There was no risk. However, the loss of weapons at that time was not noticed, and so she waited in the wings (8 years), until the meticulous chief of artillery equipment came to the unit. If he had not appeared on the island at that time, perhaps, until now, no one would have known about the missing pistols, but my fate would have turned out differently. Since then, I stopped believing the verification reports signed by many persons. And over 8 years of inspections of the NZ warehouse, more than a dozen of these acts were filed in the case. And in each, “... weapons and ammunition are fully available. There is no shortage. " Here's a story.
I reported the materials received on the search for weapons upstairs, and there they have long forgotten about this story. A mess was growing in the country, and there was no time for some 2 pistols. Moreover, organizational measures against the “guilty of the loss” of the weapon (ie, me) have long been taken. "
With the beginning of Gorbachev's perestroika, Kildin began to languish in all respects. At this time, various cooperatives began to be created, and people began to put only money and their own profit in the first place. Warriors and soldiers also tried to snatch their own. They started to steal military equipment, weapons and ammunition and turn them into money ... The same thing happened throughout the Soviet Union, including on the Rybachy Peninsula, the Kola Peninsula and on our "unsinkable aircraft carrier".
In October 1989, I worked as a captain on the Kanin motor ship, which was on the Murmansk - Dalnie Zelentsy - Murmansk line with a call to Kildin Island. Also, we also went to the port of Kirkenes (Norway), where we brought our tourists.
At the next call to the Western Kildin, on the way to the anchorage, we heard shots from machine guns and other weapons. There was a real war in the area of the pier! At the beginning I did not understand anything and thought that the soldiers were fulfilling some of their next military tasks. But soon everyone who was on the bridge and deck began to understand that this was not an exercise, but something more serious ...
The first settlement on the western part of Kildin can be attributed to the end of the 16th century. It was then that Van Lingshoten, a member of the Barents expedition, made a map of Kildin Island and depicted a camp in the west of the island. Considering the difference between the upper plateau of the island (max. Point 286 m) and the coastal terraces in the west of Kildin, the buildings near the Kildin Strait were called “down”. This is how the Lower (Western) Kildin appeared. The arrival of a separate coastal missile regiment (mbrp) to the island of 616 can be considered the real years of the heyday of the Lower (Western) Kildin. For the delivery of equipment and weapons, the berth was rebuilt, and near the berth, objects of the regiment's support services and residential buildings were built. Small missile ships (MRK) could approach the berth to unload / load missiles and deliver the necessary cargo.
The village of Nizhniy (Zapadny) Kildin "died" after the 616 brigade was withdrawn from the island in 1995.
And it all started like that. The turning point in the life of the island was the decision to create the Northern Military Flotilla on June 1, 1933, according to the Circular of the Chief of Staff of the Red Army. This date is the birthday of the SF. On April 15, 1933, a Special Purpose Expedition EON-1 was sent to the North from the Baltic Sea via the White Sea-Baltic Canal, consisting of the destroyers Uritsky, Kuibyshev, the Uragan, Smerch, and Dekabrist submarine. "Narodovolets". The expedition arrives safely in Murmansk on August 5. Construction begins naval base in the city of Polyarny. In July 1933, a party and government commission headed by J.V. Stalin inspects the sites of the alleged basing. The construction of bases and airfields began, the creation of coastal defense and a shipbuilding base, a naval theater was mastered and equipped.
The strategic location of the island, on which in 1933 there were only two Observation and Communication Posts (PNiS) and civilian enterprises... By the way, the NIS post on Western Kildin was created during the First World War. For several years on Kildin, coastal defense batteries, air defense units, machine-gun and tank companies, a half-squadron of MBR-2 amphibious aircraft, an infirmary, an airfield, rear units have been created ... The main construction work on the island is carried out by the 97th Construction Department of the Engineering Service of the Northern Fleet ... In 1935, construction began on a 10 battery consisting of two MB-2-180 towers, which later formed the basis of the 2nd Separate Artillery Division.
Here - in the East and West Kildin, I regularly called on different ships, from 1966 to the mid-90s, when active life on the glorious island-aircraft carrier practically ceased ...
I remember well Kildin 1970-1980. The soldiers at that time were taught not only military affairs, but also told them the history of this island. At political studies, the commander told his soldiers not articles from the "Communist of the Armed Forces", but told the story of the development of the island. About how William Barents sailed from Kildin to search for the northern sea route to China. How then he wintered on Novaya Zemlya, and died there. How his comrades, having buried the commander, hardly got back to Kildin, where the local Lapps warmed them up, fed them and helped to get to Kola. How the monks of the Solovetsky Monastery founded the village of Monastyrskoye on the Eastern Cape, and the British plundered the churchyard, burned down the buildings and killed the monks. Since then, the cape and the bay began to be called the Grave ...
The commander told many, many interesting things. He considered a model for himself the Norwegian Eriksen, who, not afraid of difficulties, settled at the end of the nineteenth century on this deserted island with a young wife and two small children. At first they huddled in a shack, which he made from driftwood. Over time, he built a solid two-story house on Mogilnoye, acquired cattle, fishing gear and motorboats. He became a well-to-do, prosperous colonist. Raised eleven children on the island. All Moorman called him respectfully "King of Kildin". And these stories of the commander remained in the memory of his subordinates for life ...
And what did Kildin Island become after the military left it? What did they leave to future generations? What is the ecology of Kildin? Here is the answer of one serviceman from East Kildin, when I asked him about the ecology of the island after the start of the withdrawal of military units from the island: “WHAT IS THE ECOLOGY THERE? Then, after all, the soldiers did not know such a word (or did not want to know). If some order and cleanliness were still visible on the territory of the garrisons, then they already began to shit behind it, dumping military waste wherever possible. After us - the grass does not grow! At that time no one even thought about removing this garbage from the island. To my great shame in front of Kildin, and I was also one of those who did this, without even thinking about the consequences that are shown in modern photographs - essentially the ecological catastrophe of the island. The island is soiled with military debris for the very, very tomatoes, as they say: "Mom, do not spoil!"
With great interest I read a very interesting story about. Kildina. I learned a lot for the first time. Looked at a lot of pictures of the current island. And my attitude towards Kildin began to change dramatically. From pride and admiration for him, to pity and resentment for what the military did to him. And now, with regret, I would like to note. Since the 1930s, the Soviet government decided to make this Pearl of the Barents Sea, a peaceful and beautiful unique island, "an outpost for the defense and defense of the Kola Bay and the Kola Peninsula" from any enemy aggression.
Perhaps at the time this was the only correct decision. They began to arm him, biting into the holy ground. On the island, they installed modern, for those times, long-range guns, bunkers, built an airfield for aircraft, a road. Even some military "sage" drove tanks there, obviously believing that one of the largest tank battles in modern warfare will take place on Kildin.
And now, the island, armed to the teeth, met the war. History gave him a unique chance to prove to everyone that it was not for nothing that an immense amount of money from our poor hungry people was thrown into him. And also, to somehow justify the hellish, hard labor for extinction, the prisoners of the Kildinsky camp who did not deservedly suffer (I am sure there were no criminals there), and which prisoners were in the 30s, you know without me. And this could happen when, in full view of Kildin, two German warships shot and sank an unarmed merchant ship. Kildin could, with his two or three shots from 180-millimeter guns, forever and proudly enter military history, as a true stronghold, stronghold and a real defender of the Motherland.
It was here that Kildin had to show all his might, RYAVKNUV with his guns so that there would be no wet place left of the nemchura. To smash them to pieces, having such a formidable weapon. But Kildin was ordered to turn away, and he shyly said nothing. And then throughout the war, for some reason, he kept his secret innocence. True, there was information in the press that he still "ukontrapupil" some submarine. But it may have been Stalinist propaganda. After all, then they lied in everything, without a twinge of conscience, to raise the fighting spirit. And we will trample everyone's boots and fill them with hats. And the trouble came, so with a sensitive Stalinist leadership, in six months the Germans came to Moscow, flooding the land with soldiers' blood and mass captures of entire armies. This is our story! But time, apparently, will put everything in its place. Maybe…
After the war, no matter how hard they tried to fill the island more and more with more and more modern weapons, it still remained something like a "scarecrow type".
And then, at the present time, they treated him worse than ever. All invested funds, the fate and lives of people, everything went to dust. Leaving the island, all military property was thrown, and then, all that was left was mercilessly plundered and destroyed. What was created here for decades, sailors and soldiers who served here, was subsequently plundered. I believe that the barrel of the 180-millimeter gun that I saw was senselessly cut off by brainless monsters. The sailors who served on these cannons, with great pleasure and without any regret, would have sent him in their asses "for the same tomatoes."
And how much money, as a result of such a criminal mismanagement, settled in trousers with stripes and at their assistants, one can only guess. Surely, our military red-blazers reported to the higher authorities that the funds allocated for the conservation of military equipment were spent as intended. And for all this mess, with the collapse of the USSR, we must "praise" our first alcoholic president. I slept there and fucked up there. Damn it! (Although it is not customary to speak badly about the dead). I beg your pardon, but my soul has accumulated! He didn’t give a damn about a hundred pounds of drunken snot. And the fact that we still cannot clean up the consequences of his kingdom is his main fault. And the fact that many normal men, such as Viktor Viktorovich Kudelya from Rybach, or Major Kilda, Nikolai Savitsky, suddenly found themselves "abroad" of their homeland, is the main fault of the alcoholic president. And the story with Kildin and all that has happened to him lately is just a tiny speck, against the backdrop of a huge, abandoned, sovereign heap of crap.
And now on the island there is something that may have been, and should have previously been in this peaceful place: an operating radio post and two lighthouses. Although there is a stick about 2 ends. There would be no such past, there would not be these memories! And you don't know which is better. One thing now reassures me and consoles me that neither the air defense services, nor other naval services associated with saber rattling will never be on Kildin again, which means that all the bad things are in the past !!! ??? Nature needs a very long time to heal the wounds inflicted on it by humans. The main thing is not to interfere and help her in this matter. And burn it, everything bad, with a blue flame, forever and ever. Amen!
P.S. 1. Here's something else, something about the construction of the golden road: “I was lucky to communicate in the late 80s with a man who was a naval artilleryman at that time and participated as a military expert in equipping the coastal battery on Kildin in 1938. He saw how everything was built there, and what the order was ... The road is a punishment for the prisoners ... the one who did not fulfill the norm - went to this site, and instead of sleep - paved this path ... everything - exclusively with his hands ... That's why it starts out of nowhere and ends nowhere ... ". The exact length of the "golden" road is 837 meters.
2. On May 10, 1935, the construction of a powerful (caliber 180mm) artillery battery tower began on Kildin Island. At the same time, they built open positions for artillery and anti-aircraft installations, a pier for warships in Western Kildin. In the rocks, metro builders punched adits for future repair shops. On the south bank, in the area of Cape Prigonny, a runway was erected for the aviation of the Northern Fleet. On the Kildin plateau (about 250 m above sea level), barracks, a residential town (New Kildin) for the military, a base hospital, a club, a bakery and a bath and laundry plant were set up.
For the uninterrupted delivery of heavy oversized cargo and equipment to construction sites, a paved road was needed. The nature took care of the building material - the drainage of the southern coast is completely strewn with granite cobblestones, and the GULAG authorities never had any problems with personnel. At their disposal were classy military experts, and skillful organizers of production, and skilled workers ... And they knew how to make slaves work in the NKVD. It is today that many thieves and murderers sit in prisons doing nothing. They sit and grin!
Realizing the responsibility of the task and the real threat (in case of the slightest mistake) to personal safety, the chief "master of shoulder affairs" actually used a hard whip, sometimes flavored with a soft gingerbread. In one of the directives of the NKVD, Beria demanded: “... personally supervise the quality selection of contingents ... Send only men - the best production workers, healthy, suitable for hard physical labor in the North, with the remainder of the term of imprisonment at least 6 months.
.... Announce to prisoners that all those who work well in construction will receive an increased bonus. The best percussionists and those who distinguished themselves at the end of construction will receive benefits in the form of reduced terms. And the best record-breaking drummers will be released ahead of schedule and nominated for awards. And in relation to refuseniks, disorganizers of production and the camp regime, the most severe measures will be applied.
People's Commissar of Internal Affairs of the USSR, Commissar of State Security L. Beria ".
... For many years, information about the presence of regular officers in the NKVD prisons and their use in the construction of military facilities in the North was a state secret.
3. ... In January 1961, an emergency happened in the Northern Fleet - a new S-80 missile submarine sank in the Barents Sea north of Kildin Island. The depths of the sea claimed 68 lives. To investigate the circumstances and reasons for the death of the boat, a government commission was appointed headed by the Chief Inspector of the USSR Ministry of Defense, Marshal of the Soviet Union Konstantin Konstantinovich Rokossovsky. In the midst of the debate, a respected retired admiral asked to speak after serving in the Northern Fleet for many years. And this is what he said: “When we, officers of the Northern Fleet headquarters, went out to sea to the place of the sinking of the S-80 submarine, Marshal Rokossovsky, who was on the navigating bridge, was looking at the gloomy bulk of Kildin passing by, without addressing anyone specifically, he said thoughtfully: "Here I was building a road" ...!?
4. ... The post-war peaceful life on the island was getting better quickly. A fishing trading post was opened on the Eastern Kildin (Mogilnoye). They even tried to breed Arctic foxes. We opened the post office and the school again. They built a club, a bathhouse. By the end of 1948, 117 people lived in the village, 38 of them were children. As in the old days, fishermen from all over Murman came to Mogilnaya Bay for summer fishing. The military units left on the island carried out daily service and, as best they could, arranged their simple life. The alternate airfield occasionally met and saw off planes with inspectors.
Only now, until the end of the construction of the Rokossovsky road, again, hands did not reach. Each commander, cursing her for what the light was on, considered the road not his "object", but during the occasional scattering of the inspecting authorities, he tried to direct the arrow to a neighbor. The road was dilapidated, and only the paving stones of the golden kilometer, as if in reproach to our eternal disorder, remained in first-class condition ...
... In the fifties, the ships and coastal units of the Soviet Navy received a new type of weaponry - cruise and anti-aircraft guided missiles. And again, Kildin became a secret object. The entire civilian population was again deported to the mainland. Now forever! The fishing trading post on Vostochny (Mogilny) Kildin suffered especially. The abandoned village looked like a deceased, which was forgotten to bury in a hurry of leaving relatives. It was at the end of 1966.
5. ... And then troubled times came: in Moscow they fired from tanks at the "White House". Grozny was bombed in Chechnya. The Black Sea Fleet was divided in Sevastopol. Soviet troops were urgently withdrawn from Germany, Poland and the Baltic states. On Kildino they watched with alarm the rampant "democracy" and waited in the wings. We didn't have to wait long. In 1994, it was ordered to remove from the island all military units stationed on the southern coast. Then it was the turn of the missilemen. The directive came in early May 1995. It ordered to collapse the regiment by August 31, 1995. Take out the ammunition of missiles and fire control systems, and leave everything else for eternity in the Kildin hills. Send the conscripts to the Severomorsk crew. Officers and warrant officers who have the length of service necessary for retirement should be submitted for retirement, and the rest should be sent to the head of the personnel department of the Northern Fleet.
On the night of December 31, 1995, the last officers of the coastal missile regiment left Kildin Island. We left in a hurry, as in retreat. A hand was not raised to destroy the capitally repaired and prepared for the long winter a bath and laundry plant, a kindergarten, a basic sailor's club (the pride of the islanders), a boiler house and a power plant. Barrels with solarium were laid in neat piles. The coal was bunkered and covered with old missile covers. All mechanisms of the recently upgraded multi-ton launchers were thoroughly lubricated. They were lowered into the mines and covered with reinforced concrete roofs - retractors. Locks and casts with seals were hung on all the doors, secretly hoping that the "perestroika" frenzy would soon pass and reason would prevail. ... But this did not happen. In the spring, as soon as the snow melted, dashing guys poured into the secret island with ships, autogens, cranes and tractors. During the short polar summer, they cut, cut down, packed and took away the goods abandoned by the military. They did not forget about the solarium with coal, carefully stored up since autumn ...
They are leaving other people's lands of demobilization, demobilization, demobilization! And wherever you look in these May days, they go everywhere drunk.
(From the memoirs of my friend who served on Kildin during the dispersal of the military in the mid-90s). - And we lodged on Mogilny. We had a sailor's barracks there, and a couple of houses for a permanent staff. In the early nineties, after the collapse of the Soviet Union, a mass exodus of the military from the island began. They left as if they were retreating. They threw everything - equipment, property, towns. They forgot about us in this universal bedlam. And we remained on the island as an aboriginal tribe - by ourselves. It is high up to God, far from the authorities. And the bosses don't give a damn about us. He has his own problems ... Believe it or not, we barely survived the winter. There was no autumn delivery: - no diesel fuel, no coal, no food. They collected fin along the shore, dismantled empty houses for firewood. We ate what we had to. Thanks to the fishermen - they didn't let me die of hunger. Well, and there is nothing to say about military service. What the hell is service if the sailors are worse than homeless - ragged, unwashed, hungry. On watch somehow went and then, thank God. The commander is diluted by a drop. I have already crossed the military rank for two terms. An outspoken "bolt" scored on everything. We never saw him sober. In the spring he left for Severomorsk. And ends ...
And now on the island (for more than 15 years now) "metalworkers" disfigure military relics that should be proud of, plunder townships, destroy graves and monuments to the first settlers ... The torn island quietly and finally dies, no longer believing in its rebirth.
It is a pity that so many villages where I was in the north are no longer on the map, but only their ruins, desolation and devastation! And how many such islands and islets, useless and forgotten, are scattered all over Russia !!! Yes, you just even today go into the outback and see how many collective farms and villages are plundered around and no longer needed by anyone ... Eh RUSSIA !!!
It is sad to see such pictures around. It is sad for several reasons: 1. Our country has spent the same amount on the fact that in the end it’s all to give up. The question immediately arises? Was it necessary to do all this? 2. People who spent there best years of your life, it turns out, wasted your life? Is it possible to live in peace after all this? And by and large, only two bastards from the party are to blame for this - the tagged Bear Humpbacked and the alcoholic Yeltsin! Beasts!
I don’t know if it would be appropriate to place this story of mine about the tragedy that took place in October 1989 on the island of Kildin, for you to judge my readers. But since he began to talk about the island, then this story cannot be kept silent. This little story of mine will be based on the recollections of direct participants in those real events. Surnames and names, which are not fictitious, but slightly modified for aesthetic reasons. With the exception of one - Captain 3rd Rank Fost Dmitry Ivanovich, who bravely fulfilled his officer's duty. I will also omit the part numbers.
On the eve of the celebration of the Day of the Constitution of the USSR on October 7, 1989, a fire broke out at the weapons depot of one of the military units of Kildin Island. After its liquidation, an audit was appointed at the warehouse, as a result of which a shortage of 4 machine guns, bayonet knives for them, a box of F-1 grenades, two zinc cartridges (1800 pcs) was revealed. On the face of a clear embezzlement. And with a careful study of the causes of the fire, traces of deliberate arson of the warehouse were revealed, as well as the intent to cover up the traces of theft itself by an explosion of ammunition. Namely, a container from under a flammable liquid, the remains of a candle and a grenade with a ring pulled out and a check attached to the fuse with electrical tape. That is, as the candle burns out, the flame should have spread to the fuel, then burned the electrical tape on the igniter. And from the subsequent explosion, the grenades were supposed to detonate the ammunition stored in the warehouse, and there ... more ... more ... and more ... Nizhniy Gorodok could, in theory, not stay at all. If you do not assume more ... The alarm was also turned off, there were traces of sawing the lock shackle.
The incident was immediately reported to the authorities, after which representatives of the KGB, the military prosecutor's office, and the command arrived on the island. The personnel of the garrison were put in a barracks position. Two BODs entered Kildinskaya Salma, the sailors and officers with whom they began to systematically comb the environs of the warehouse and the entire island. Shmon was serious, but it was all in vain. There were no traces of weapons. When inspecting the scene of the incident, pieces of electrical tape, a hacksaw for metal with special marks, a small piece of paper with traces of fresh blood were found near the warehouse.
On October 11, during lunchtime, when representatives of the KGB and the command left for lunch. Before leaving for lunch, the command announced to the crew that there would be a general formation after it for inspection for wounds or other injuries. And one of the employees of the prosecutor's office managed to obtain a confession statement from the signalman OA Andriyanov, who turned off the alarm at the time of the theft of the weapon. He named the direct participants in the crime: foreman 1 of article Pavlenko and senior sailor Nurutdinov.
Unfortunately, information that Andrianov split and surrendered his accomplices very quickly spread among the garrison. Realizing that they had been exposed, Pavlenko and Nurutdinov left the unit's location, took weapons and ammunition hidden in a dump near Cape Byk. After that, we went to the side of the pier, with the aim of getting unnoticed on the passenger motor ship "Kanin" or any other vessel. However, their plans were not destined to come true. An armed officer's post was set up on the pier in advance. Then Pavlenko and Nurutdinov did not come up with anything better than to seize a car and, against the background of the general turmoil, drive to the pier located on Vostochny Kildin.
Along the seashore, they went unnoticed to the Lower Residential Town, where at that time a ZIL-131 car with boxes of vegetables and barrels of pickles loaded in the back was parked at the house. Under threat of weapons, they threw the young driver out of the car, after which they entered the entrance of a residential building, with the aim of taking the wife of the Kilda special officer hostage. But she was not at home, and the wife of Lieutenant Mizin, Julia, came out of the next apartment to knock. Lieutenant Mizin himself was on vacation in Sevastopol at that time, and Yulia was not allowed to go with him, because she just got a job as a librarian in the unit. Many sailors and officers specially signed up for the library in order to just talk with Julia. The owner of the library was of some special beauty.
Having got into the cab of the car, together with the hostage they proceeded towards Kildin Vostochny past the pier with the floating craft standing on it. At this time, the search for Pavlenko and Nurutdinov had already begun in the unit. After the driver reported the car theft, an alarm was raised and all parts of the island were alerted. All women and children were gathered in isolated rooms. Armed guards were assigned to them. So, as the road to Vostochny was also blocked by setting up an armed post, the criminals, along the old military road, through the hills, headed towards the combat positions of the OBRP. After some time, the car appeared in the area of the car park, and from there the criminals headed towards the upper residential town.
Unfortunately, the untimely notification due to the lack of mobile communication did not allow to notify the barrier set up in the area of "Voenkora". As a result, the car with the criminals and the hostage, having freely passed the upper town, came to the screen from an unexpected side. Having approached at low speed, we broke through the screen and headed down. Fire was opened after them. Hearing the shots, the commander ordered the armed groups to take positions in the area where the unit was located. The group commanders were ordered to use weapons only in a situation ensuring the safety of the hostage. Going down directly, bypassing the serpentine, the car at a slow speed drove through the economic territory of the unit and headed towards the lower town. At the turn of the road to the residential buildings, there was already a barrier, the officers of which demanded to stop, get out of the car, lay down their arms and surrender.
Ignoring the demand to stop, the criminals increased their speed, and, firing at the open window from a machine gun, throwing grenades, broke into the side of the pier. Following the car, machine-gun fire was opened. At the beginning of the descent of the road to the pier, there was a barrier of conscripts at the head of the midshipman. Trying to stop the car, Warrant Officer Boris Gamko jumped onto the passenger side of the car. Pavlenko, who was sitting at the door, put a machine gun out of the open window and opened fire.
Falling from the running board, Warrant Officer Gamko returned pistol fire. Unsighted shots through the rear wall of the cockpit, Pavlenko was wounded. Under heavy fire from sailors and officers, Nurutdinov increased speed and directed the car to the pier. At that moment, a grenade without a pin fell out of the wounded Pavlenko's hand and exploded on the floor of the cockpit. Nurutdinov lost control, and the car crashed into concrete slabs laid by the builders at the checkpoint of the pier. Negotiations began with Nurutdinov. The negotiations were conducted by Captain 3rd Rank Fost Dmitry Ivanovich, remaining in one shirt, demonstrating the absence of weapons, settled down on the hood of the wrecked car. He managed to persuade Nurutdinov to allow the killed Pavlenko and Julia Mizina, who was wounded in the head, to be taken out of the cab. Julia was immediately sent by car to the upper town in the 75th infirmary. On the way, she died of blood loss. Negotiations with Nurutdinov lasted about an hour and a half. All this time he was holding a grenade without a pin in his hand.
Fost managed to convince Nurutdinov, in exchange for the Makarov pistol, to throw a grenade into the sea. However, even here Nurutdinov showed cunning, refused the proposed barrel, demanded another. When he received the required (PM) and threw a grenade, he was tied down. He wanted to shoot from the PM, since he was also a specially trained soldier.
At this time, due to the lack of normal communication and notification, the sentry, who was guarding the technical territory on the tower by the road, fired at the water carrier heading to the residential building. The senior of the vehicle was wounded by a single submachine gun shot.
Not without overlays. From one of the posts there was information that the fire was also fired back from the back of the car. And then a man in civilian clothes with a submachine gun at the ready jumped from there and disappeared into the hills. The rumor about the presence of the fourth criminal arose after the participants of the barrier at the lower town thought that someone jumped out of the body of the car that had burst out and disappeared into the darkness. In the morning, a special group was delivered to the island by helicopter. The servicemen of the garrison “chased the shadow” for two more days. The unit commander, despite the short duration of his tenure, was removed by order of the USSR Ministry of Defense and was appointed chief of artillery to another unit. The surviving criminals Nurutdinov and Andrianov were convicted.
All this was later told to me by my acquaintance, a special officer, who was directly involved in the above events. After the interrogations of Nurudinov and Andrianov, it became clear that these criminals were planning to seize the Kanin motor ship in order to get to neighboring Norway on it. Knowing that we had already started going to Norway at that time, they were on pain of shooting the captain - that is, me, they planned to require the ship to go to the port of Kirkenes, where they wanted to ask for political asylum. Thank God that the criminals did not get on our glorious ship! Otherwise, I might not have had to write these lines.
One military friend gave me this poem, written by him.
Kildin Island is just a point on the map, open to the winds.
The character was forged on it, as in Sparta - after all, the service was severe there.
We cannot forget your beauty. The cry of seagulls in bird markets,
Road "paving stones", polar night. And a day without end and beginning ...
Your "Chests", "Grave", fishing from the pier come to mind.
Fogs, snows and sailor friends ... What a pity, not to return everything from the beginning.
You feel the gaze of these Northern waters, the variability of the wild.
Danger, the severity of the polar latitudes, the treachery of the winds and weather.
At this point I already wanted to end my story about the unsinkable aircraft carrier of the USSR, but at the end of August 2010, when I was already living in Borovichi, they showed on TV information about the beginning of a major exercise in the Barents Sea. But what about Kildin? Is the unsinkable aircraft carrier really useless? After all, this is the best place for shooting at the "enemies" of the Barents Sea. I waited for the development of events and waited ...
P.S. P.S. September 2010. Kildin, have not forgotten! And they even remembered very much! Two S-300 complexes were temporarily delivered and shot towards the Barents Sea. Still, you can see everything from the North Kildin very far away - perhaps to the very North Pole!
There has been a lot of talk lately about the revival of Russia. But society, corrupted and poisoned by Gorbachev's demagogy, Yeltsin's lack of principle and Chubais's privatization, is still inert and spiritless. Indifferently watching as greedy non-people, devoid of conscience and civic duty, who have crossed the line of memory, shamelessly rob the graves of their fathers ... the attitude towards the graves of the fathers - desecration of the memory and history of the country will continue ...
Longing and devastation is all that remains of Kildin today. Will there be a revival?
Now Kildin was covered with a dense cloud - a purple cloud of grave melancholy.
Only the whistle of the blizzard, but thorny frost, and torn pieces of gloomy thoughts ...
Toponymy- a section of linguistics devoted to the study of geographical names (toponyms), their origin, meaning, changes in their pronunciation, spelling, etc. Often, geographical names reflect (forgotten or past) properties of geographical objects, the history of their discovery or development. The toponymy of the island of Kildin begins with a riddle: so far no one has been able to prove the origin of the word "Kildin" in the affirmative! How much geographical names Do the Kildins reflect the history of the island? ... to judge you ...
Bull cape. In the modern pilot of the Barents Sea about Kildin, as a good reference point when approaching the Motovsky and Kola bays, the following is written: "Especially noticeable is the high and steep Cape Byk - its western end." Outwardly, Cape Byk looks like the stem of a ship. It is logical to assume that the name "Bull" was given to the cape because of the steepness of its shores. On the maps of the 19th century, I came across the name “m. Bykov ". The version that "bulls" is a surname is unlikely ...
From the Book of the Seafarer (Pomorskaya Sailing, 18th century), a description of the depths in the Kildinskaya Salma:
"It is shallow under Bykov, near the pillowcase, but deep in the salma ..."
Upper, Middle, Low, Red ... mountains, the names were given by Lieutenant Vilkov during the survey of Kildin in 1771. It is not known why Vilkov fell in love with the mountains so much and navigation landmarks remained practically unattended ... The names have not survived to this day, there is not a single named height on the modern map of Kildin.
Kildin Island, the origin of the word "Kildin" is still a mystery. On the early maps The 16th century island is depicted with the name Kilun. Later, the Dutch map it under the name Kildyin. Professor V.P. Voshchinin believes that the word "kildin" may be derived from "kilted" - "forbid", i.e. "Forbidden place". It is difficult for me to give a logical explanation why Kildin is a forbidden place. Considering that medieval sailors wrote down the names geographic locations by ear from the local language, then I dare to suggest that Kilun may be distorted from the Finno-Ugric word "kul" - "fish". Thus, the island could be called "fish", because over the past 400 years, the Kildin Strait has been the best place for cod fishing ... But that's just a guess.
For several centuries, the island was put on foreign and Russian maps as "Kilduin", but Litke corrected this: "The island of Kildin, not Kilduin, as we hitherto, imitating the Dutch called it ...". Since then, (1822), the island on Russian maps is known as Kildin.
The root "Kildin" has the following geographical names Kildin Island, the settlements of Vostochny Kildin, Verkhny Kildin, Novy Kildin, Kildinsky Strait, Kildinsky-Severny lighthouse, Kildinsky-Vostochny lighthouse, Kildinsky-Zapadny lighthouse, Kildinsky leading target, Kildinsky anchor leading target; Maly Kildin island, Kildinsky-Maly lighthouse; Kildinsky stream (flows into the Kola), the village of Kildinstroy with the Kildinsky highway, etc.
The Kildin Lapps hunted on Kildin in summer and lived in the Kola region in winter. The Kildinsky stream got its name from the place where the Kildinsky Lapps lived. In turn, the Kildinsky brook gave its name to another toponym - the village of Kildinstroy. The urban-type settlement Kildinstroy begins its history in 1934, when it was decided to build a brick factory "Kildinsky Ruchey" in the area of a clay-rich deposit.
Small Kildin, the island is located between the island of Kildin and the mainland, not far from Cape Prigonny. On the map of Litke in 1822, M. Kildin Island is plotted as Bear Island: "Opposite Cape Prigonny lies a bare, stone Medvezhiy islet under the weathered shore, constricting the strait up to 300 yards. The Gusinaya River flows into the bay behind this islet."
Cow's cape, the southern coast of Kildin Island, not far from Cape Prigonny - Professor Voshchinin believes that the name "cow" is associated with the drive of deer to Kildin Island to summer pastures. Possibly another origin of the name of the cape, pomors called belugas "cows" or "sea cows" - the object of fishing for northerners throughout the Murmansk coast
Dashing cliff, a rock at the northwestern tip of the island. The outdated name "Dashing Buttermilk". Dashing Cliff got its name, most likely, because of the steepness of the slope. This part of the island is quite high, 200-250 meters, and the shores are almost steep. Hacksaw rock is located nearby.
Louise's buttermilk(rock). It is located near Cape Prigonny. Mentioned in works on the geology of the island at the beginning of the 20th century. The origin of the name and the exact location on the map, I have not yet been able to determine.
Shallow lake in the western part of the island. Comments are superfluous. On one of the maps of the 18th century, Melkoe and Pridorozhnoe lakes are designated as "Vord lakes", most likely from the Norwegian vord, vorda - mountain, hill. See Lake Pridorozhnoe below.
Grave Bay, Grave Cape, Grave Lake are located in the southeastern part of Kildin Island. According to unverified data, XVI-XVII centuries. the bay was called Korabelnaya, and in the 18th century. and until 1809 the bay and the cape were called Solovetsky or Monastyrsky. A fishing camp in this part of the island first appeared on the map in 1594, but most likely existed before that. In 1636, during the "inventory" of property in the "Prikaznye files of the old years" there is the following entry: "On the Kildin Island one hundred and forty monastic draft deer and not draft, but one hundred convenient ships, and three large river vessels ...", here it is it is about the Pechenga monastery. The Pechenga monastery was burned to the ground in 1589 by the Swedes and was transferred to Kola ... On the map of 1771, a settlement in the southeastern part of the island is designated as "Rybny Stan of the Solovetsky Monastery." In 1809, the British frigate "Neyada" destroyed the encampment, shooting it with cannons. You can read about this episode of the Russian-Swedish-English war in the "History" section, on the "XIX century: the beginning" page of this site. Since then, the cape, bay, and later the lake began to be called Mogilnye. is a Federal Natural Monument, and its inhabitant, the Kildin cod, is listed in the Red Book.
Hacksaw rock on the southwest coast of the island. Academician N. Ya. Ozeretskovsky in his "Description of Cola" told us the following: "At the rear end of the Kildin Island, facing the Kola Bay, there is a very high buttermilk called Nozhovka, because someone, having climbed on it for eggs, halfway up the elevation, came to great horror, and not daring to sink to the bottom, he climbed up to the top of the knife, poking it from one slot into another. " (An excerpt from the book of academician Ozeretskovsky can be read)
Arctic fox lake, in the southwest of the island. Since 1928, Arctic foxes have been industrially bred on the island, and hunting has been banned since 1925. In February 1929, Kildin Island was given "for lease use to Gostorg ... for the development and organization of fur farming ... for a period of 12 years, counting from 1928. The right to exploit the island's territory granted to Gostorg is exclusive. " Pushtorg planned by 1934-35. have 11,000 Arctic foxes on the island!
Cape, on the southern coast of Kildin Island, not far from Cape Koroviy, Professor Voshchinin explains: “Here the Kildin Sami transported reindeer brought from the interior of the Kola Peninsula across the strait to the summer pastures of Kildin Island”. This fact can be found in the "Orders of the old years" of the Moscow ancient storage, dated April 11, 7144 (1636 according to the new style): "On the Kildin Island one hundred and forty monastic draft deer and not draft"."Tax" - comes either from the tax payment (tax), or from the Pomor "pull". According to V.I. Dahlu also means a place where cattle are brought.
Roadside lake is located next to one of the few roads on the island. On one of the maps of the 18th century, the lakes Melkoe and Pridorozhnoe (to the north) are designated as "Vord lakes", possibly from the Norwegian vord, vorda - mountain, hill.
North and South streams, respectively, in the northern and southern parts of the island. One of the northern streams flows along the bottom of the canyon.
Lake builder, located in the western part of the island at an altitude of more than 200 m. It was named, most likely, in honor of Soviet builders who continued to build military facilities on Kildin in the post-war period.
Chests, stones at the eastern end of the island and nautical mark(Lighthouse). Litke wrote that when approaching Kildin from the east, he observed “Several large stones lying on the shore near the water. These stones, called "Chests", from a distance resemble completely old huts "... On the navigation map at the beginning of the 19th century there is an inscription “stones from a distance similar to houses”. An underwater ridge departs from them into the water, and a sign (lighthouse) Chests is installed nearby to warn sailors about the danger. Writer Viktor Konetsky in his story "Yesterday's Concerns" about Chests said: "... Chests are such evil and treacherous stones at the eastern end of Kildin Island. Chests."
The stones of the Chests, in spite of the brutal destructive effect of sea waves and northern winds, are still preserved. However, judging by the maps of the early 19th century, there are fewer of them: the surf destroyed some of them. A visit to this place leaves a strong aesthetic impression! Truly, nature is the best sculptor!
Black River in the southern part of the island. On old maps Black stream.
V.P. Voshchinin (1882-1967), mentioned several times on this page, is a professor. Until 1917, he was engaged in the issues of colonization and migration of the population, wrote a number of works on Russian colonization. Founder of the Murmansk branch of the GENII (Geographic and Economic Research Institute, now NIIG is the Research Institute of Geography. The GENII was created on December 3, 1918 and either lost or re-acquired its independence from LSU-SPGU). Under the leadership of Voshchinin and with direct participation, the Geographical Dictionary of the Kola Peninsula was published in 1939. Professor Voshchinin was awarded the University Prize together with other authors for the Geographical Dictionary of the Murmansk Region in 1948 by Leningrad State University. Professor Voshchinin can rightfully be called the father of the Kola toponymy!
IF YOU KNOW OTHER KILDIN TOPONYMS OR OTHER INTERPRETATIONS OF THE ABOVE NAMES, PLEASE INFORM ME
Kildin Island is what remained after the departure of a person. Let me remind you that in Soviet times, several military units were located on the island - border guards, air defense, artillerymen and missilemen. Now all these parts are closed, their territory is overgrown with moss and grass, from which the skeletons of houses and equipment rise.
The village of Verkhniy Kildin. The beginning of the settlement of the "upper" Kildin in the western part of the island can be considered the First World War, when in 1914-1916. the first observation posts were created on the Kola Peninsula. Until 1935, all residents of Upper Kildin were represented only by the staff of the Kildin West post and lighthouses. At the end of 1935, construction began on the coastal battery, which consisted of two MB-2-180 towers. Battery staff: 191 people. On the basis of the battery, the 2nd separate artillery division was formed, which formed the basis of the island's infrastructure, as well as the main population of Upper Kildin for the next 15 years. Before the start of the war, the newly formed 6th separate anti-aircraft artillery division was transferred to the island. The main houses at that time were dugouts for personnel. In 1955, the oad was disbanded, but in the same year the construction of the coastal missile complex and the creation of the 616 Separate Coastal Missile Regiment began. To protect the infrastructure of the island and the approaches to the Kola Peninsula, an air defense battalion was deployed on the Western Kildin. The presence of the Separate Coastal Missile Regiment on the island is the heyday of West Kildin. In 1995, the regiment was withdrawn from Kildin ... At the moment, Upper Kildin is completely abandoned.
The remains of abandoned equipment are scattered everywhere - various tracked vehicles, trucks, trailers
Boiler room equipment and rangefinder of an artillery tower battery
The village of lower Kildin. The first settlement on Western Kildin can be attributed to the end of the 16th century. It was then that Van Linshoten, a member of the Barents expedition, made a map of Kildin Island and depicted a camp in the west. In the 30s of the twentieth century. active construction of military facilities began on the island. Has acquired particular importance west coast islands, rising to a height of almost 300 meters above the Barents Sea and covering the entrance to the Kola Bay. The newly formed settlement in the west was first called New Kildin. But with the appearance of buildings on the plateau, the villages in the west were divided and on some maps Nizhny Kildin and Upper Kildin appeared.
In the pre-war period, roads, barracks to accommodate builders and military personnel, warehouses, a rock shelter were built, the pier was strengthened. In 1938, construction began on a rock shelter directly opposite the pier.
The arrival of a separate coastal missile regiment to the island of 616 can be considered the real years of the heyday of Nizhniy Kildin. For the delivery of equipment and weapons, the berth was rebuilt, and near the berth, objects of the regiment's support services and residential buildings were built. Small rocket ships could approach the pier to unload / load missiles.
The village of Nizhniy Kildin "died" after the 616th separate coastal missile regiment was withdrawn from the island.
Russia: Kildin Island
Sep. 17th, 2013 at 12:55 PM
In July last summer I was lucky enough to live a week on Kildin Island, perhaps the most mysterious and unusual island in the Barents Sea. I was very lucky with the weather - before my arrival, there was an extremely unusual heat for those places, under plus thirty degrees. I walked around the island, both on the surface and in the depths, picking berries, fishing, swimming in a boat. In addition, I had a task to obtain photographic material for one scientific collection on the history of Soviet fortification. In this article I will tell you about the history of the island, show you the landscapes of northern nature and its inhabitants. There will also be photographs of military ruins, but I will allow you to emphasize them in subsequent materials.
Scientists are surprised by many things in it. For example, the rocks of the island are formed into a multi-layered slate cake, but the opposite coast of the Kola Peninsula consists of granite. Only the Rybachiy Peninsula has a layered structure, but it is many tens of kilometers away. Kildin is small, seventeen kilometers in length, seven in width, but on these seven kilometers several natural areas... The northern coast of the island is steep and steep, with two-hundred-meter cliffs covered with silvery moss stones, and small lakes. The southern and eastern shores descend to the water in gentle terraces, here grows polar bushes and tall grass.
1.2 - Views of Cape Byk, the western end of the island. From here, steep and high layered cliffs begin and go along the entire northern coast.
3 - Cape Bull. The boundary between the flat and steep zones.
4.5 - North coast of the island. The radio tower on the left side of the image is a sea observation post.
6 - Terraces of the south coast shrouded in fog at night. In general, the fog over the island is very frequent, milky-thick and impenetrable.
7,8,9 - Landscapes typical of the northern part of the island. Terraces hide the true distance to objects. It seems that the sea is very close, but as soon as you walk a little, another step opens, invisible from above.
10.11 - Small fresh lakes scattered throughout the island. In summer, geese, ducks and partridges nest here.
12,13,14,15 - South coast, facing a narrow strait between the mainland and the island. In the center of the strait there is
the tiny island of Maly Kildin or, as the locals call it, Kildinonok.
A similar zoning, starting from the bowels, occurs under water. Lake Mogilnoe consists of three layers of water that never mix. The uppermost layer is fresh, inhabited by freshwater fish. The layer underneath has the salinity of the surrounding sea. And at the very bottom reigns the world of hydrogen sulfide, separated from salt water by a layer of bacteria that does not allow hydrogen sulfide to rise to the surface.
16,17,18 - The lake is separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land.
19,20,20a - A year ago, in a storm, the transport ship "Coast of Hope" was thrown ashore, carrying drilling equipment to Chukotka. Soon, the cargo was removed, and the ship was abandoned, considering it unprofitable to remove the stones. So it stands, attracting robbers and tourists.
Even one hundred and fifty years ago, the Sami, the indigenous people of the Kola Peninsula, every summer they drove reindeer herds by swimming to Kildin, and in the east of the island, in a bay convenient for ship mooring, fairs grew. From Russia they brought furs, fat, river pearls, down and fish. In return, Dutch and Scandinavian merchants brought in wine, spices, textiles, and metal. From here, in 1594, William Barents set out on a campaign, looking for a northern route to China and India.
21,22,23 - Coast in the area of former fairs.
In the middle of the eighteenth century, the monks of the Solovetsky Monastery built a camp on the island and established a year-round fishing industry. But the government had no business until the remote island, and in 1809, English robber ships came to Kildin, sank fishing vessels, destroyed and burned the settlement, killing all the inhabitants, throwing corpses into the lake. Since then, it has received the name Mogilnoye, like the bay.
24.25 - Mogilnaya Bay now. The yachts of the Murmansk Yacht Club are at the mooring barrel.
26,27,28,29 - Automatic lighthouse and an old power line, next to Lake Mogilnoye. In the last third of summer, purple Ivan tea blooms thickly on the island.
In the second half of the 19th century, the government finally became interested in the island, issuing large benefits for those who want to settle. They promised not to collect duties for several years, to allocate timber for the construction of houses and ships free of charge, exemption from recruiting. In addition to Russians, foreigners also rushed to the island, who quickly settled in and established their economy.
30-36 - Diverse flora and fauna of the island. In 2009, a bear even sailed from the mainland, terrifying fishermen and tourists.
After the October Revolution and the Civil War, as a result of the redistribution of state borders, trade communication with the island was sharply reduced, and in 1931 the nationalization of the property of the islanders began. The Norwegians were ousted from the island, and in 1939 all the remaining inhabitants. The GULAG was built, the prisoners of which began the construction of a 180-mm artillery turret battery. At a depth of many meters, in the thickness of the stone, porches and premises were built. Moorings for warships, an airfield, and buildings for a military town were built at an accelerated pace.
37 - The only paved road on the island built by inmates.
38, 39 - Submontane ammunition storage.
To the beginning of the Great Patriotic War, the island turned into a military fortress with turret and open artillery batteries, an air defense battalion, a machine gun and a tank company, radar stations, an airfield, communication and observation centers, an infirmary. But, despite such great firepower, during the war years Kildin did not fire a single shot.
40,41,42 - In the bowels of a 180mm artillery turret battery.
After the victory, some of the weapons were taken to the mainland, reviving a fishing base on the island. This continued until the 50s, and then underground construction began again. Huge trenches were dug in the rocks, in which concrete rooms for future stationary missile systems were erected. Nearby, underground command posts were erected, and on the southern coast piedmont storage facilities for torpedoes and other weapons.
43,44,45 - Remains of the P-35 anti-ship cruise missiles, a missile training model, transport carts.
And dragged on for many years, consisting of planned and sudden checks, shooting, fresh mail, political activities and waiting for orders. With the commissioning of the Orbita space system, a TV set came to the island, and on weekends a movie was played in the sailors' club. And then the huge country fell apart. The withdrawal of troops and the reduction of units began. The hour struck in 1994 and on the night of December 31, 1995, the last missile officer left the island, and in the spring, when the snow had just melted, other people came. People with autogens, cranes and tractors.
Now from the past life on the island there are only ruins, gradually absorbed by nature. Of the military units, there are only two observation posts over the sea - ten conscripts, a midshipman, and a contract driver. The naval "shovels" regularly bring them coal, and exercises are held every August.
46,47,48,49 - Ships of the Navy serving the garrison of the island. Transport "Pechora", sea tug, small landing ship.
Every year, big bosses come to approve the site for the shooting. It is the same every year. Then three large landing ships enter the Mogilnaya bay and equipment crawls out of them. Cars shoot, people pour. A few days later, the equipment returns, the large landing ships leave and Kildin falls asleep under a blanket of snow until next spring.
Used sources:
1. The article "Secret Island of the Arctic" from the January 2013 issue of the journal "Science and Life".
Used materials from the site: http://ralphmirebs.livejournal.com/205073.html
