Mumbai: the most populous city in the world. Mumbai - "Gateway of India Bombay India

The most western, multinational and Big City India, located on the coast of the Arabian Sea. It is often called the "Gateway of India". Mumbai's streets are filled with people from different cultures and backgrounds. It is a city of contrasts, where unprecedented abundance coexists with appalling poverty. Migrants, fascinated by the imagery of Bollywood, come to Mumbai from all over India as well as from countries in South Asia. Despite the incredible population density of 21,665 people per km², people continue to arrive in this "golden city" as Mumbai is a place where dreams and nightmares can come true.

Video: Mumbai

Story

Once upon a time this place was just a chain of swampy, malaria-infested islands, inhabited by a few fishermen and peasants who extracted juice from palm trees. The first name in the Marathi language came from the name of the goddess Mumba, who was revered even in the days of the first inhabitants - koli. They lived on all seven islands that have been part of the city since the 2nd century. BC. It is amazing, but true: the remains of this culture are still preserved along the coastline of the city.

The islands were ruled by the Hindu dynasties from the 6th century until the Muslim Sultan of Gujarat captured these territories in the 14th century, and they were eventually transferred to Portugal in 1534. The only significant contribution of the Portuguese to the development of the territory was that they christened it “ Bom Bahai " (Bom Bahai) before giving the land with the dowry of Catherine de Braganza, when she married the English king Charles II (1661) ... The British government took possession of the islands in 1665, but three years later "leased them" to the East India Company (East India Company) for the ridiculous annual rent at £ 10.

Then the city was renamed Bombay and became prosperous trade port... It developed so rapidly that after 20 years it became the main residence of the management of the East India Company, which moved to Bombay from the city of Surat. The construction of the Bombay fortress was completed in the 20s of the 18th century, and only 100 years later, according to an ambitious plan, this land was united with the islands and became the territory that we know today. Although the city developed significantly in the 19th century, it was still relatively isolated from its coastal zone until the British defeated the Marathas. (by the population of Central India, who controlled most of the country's territories in different time) by annexing part of western India to their possessions in 1818.

The walls of the fortress were dismantled in 1864: large-scale construction work began in the city, the main goal of which was to transform the city into an example of the colonial style. When Bombay became Britain's main cotton supplier during the American Civil War, the country's population increased and trade intensified as money flooded into the city.

An important fighter in the independence movement, Bombay became the city where the first Indian National Congress took place in 1885, and the campaign for the liberation of India was launched in 1942 by frequent visitor to the city, Mahatma Gandhi. The city became the capital of the president after independence, but in 1960 Maharashtra and Gujarat were divided according to language - and Bombay became the capital of the state of Maharashtra.

Growth of the regional industrial-Maratha movement led by Shiv Sena (by the Hindu Party; literally "Shivaji's army"), agitated the multinational population of the city with active discrimination against Muslims and opponents of the Maharaja. Shiv Sena won the city's municipal elections in 1985. Tensions in the city increased and cosmopolitan Bombay came under threat when some 800 people died in riots following the destruction of the Babri Masjid in Ayodhya in December 1992.

The riots were accompanied by dozens of explosions on 12 March 1993, which killed more than 300 people; these explosions damaged the Bombay Stock Exchange and the Air India building. July 2006: train explosion that killed more than 200 people; in November 2008 - planned attacks on 10 city attractions, which lasted three days (as a result 173 people died)... all of this suggests that there is tension all the time.

11/26, as the attacks in Mumbai came to be known, were a wake-up call for the city. Security is being strengthened on many well-known tourist sites, in famous hotels and important financial and government buildings. Entire streets have been blocked off in some cases, becoming an impromptu cricket field for large youths. But Mumbai continues to live, and its rebellious Maratha spirit is not broken, thanks to which life in the commercial center of India and the world's financial "engine" is stabilized.

Mumbai today

Today, Mumbai is home to the most successful film production company, one of the largest slums in Asia and the largest rainforest in the city. This city is the "financial aorta" of India, the center of fashion and the intersection of numerous religions. Amidst fantastic architecture and modern skyscrapers, busy streets with luxurious restaurants, city bustle and suburban glamor, chaos and madness, playful and mesmerizing motives of raga - complex music played to the rhythm of deshi drums - quietly sound.

Mumbai is also the capital of the state of Maharashtra, an island connected by bridges to the mainland. Marine docks outside the city dominate east coast islands. Shopping and Cultural Center The city is located in the south of the claw-like island and is known as South Mumbai. Southern peninsula Colaba is the traditional center where most of the attractions are concentrated, and directly north of Colaba is a business center called the Fort (Fort), where an old British fortress was once located. It is bordered to the west by a green area of ​​several interconnected fenced-in grasslands known as maidans. (pronounced "maidans").

Although the north is as important a part of the city as South Mumbai, it is often referred to as the "suburb" (Suburbs)... Here, especially in the expensive suburbs of Bandra (Bandra) and Juhu (Juhu), there is an airport and many the best restaurants Mumbai shopping and nightlife.

The opening of the Bandra-Worli sea channel in 2009 shortened the road between the two regions from one hour to seven minutes, making these prestigious suburbs accessible to tourists.

Occasionally, a luxury liner can be seen, slipping past a large stone triumphal arch, the Apollo promenade and the yacht club, dock at Ballard Pier. For the rest of the mortals, landing at the Chhatrapati Shivaji airport. The hustle and bustle of dock porters and rickshaws that a newcomer once plunged into is now replaced by a new, modern kind of hustle and bustle. In Mumbai, new skyscrapers are springing up almost every month. It is the largest and busiest industrial and commercial city in India, producing cars, textiles, chemicals and nuclear energy. It is also the site of a revival of Indian art. But this enormous wealth is combined with the blatant poverty embodied by women who wear bricks on their heads to build luxury apartments. This is despite the fact that the largest slum area in Asia is located on the outskirts of the city.

For many, a visit to the cosmopolitan city of Mumbai means delicious food, nightlife and shopping, but the city has much more to offer than just nightlife and shopping. Nowhere in the world do the colorfully impressive buildings of Gothic, Victorian and Indo-Saracenic eras and artistic decoration merge with the remnants of the British colonial era and many years of European influence. Chhatrapati Shivaji Station (Victoria station), Supreme Court, University of Mumbai, Taj Mahal Palace Hotel (Taj Mahal Palace) and the gates of India (India Gate) are among the most famous attractions - small architectural gems give the overall architectural style indescribable charm, to the delight of all visitors to the city.

Mumbai is a wonderful mix of dreamers and workaholics, actors and bandits, stray dogs and exotic birds, entertainers and servants, fishermen and babies. (millionaires) and much more. Dilapidated architectural buildings testify to the fact that Mumbai once played a more important role in the world, which is reminded by the whole museum of brick and lime. Only one thing is beyond doubt: this city on the world map will always be synonymous with creative disorder!

For anyone not on business in Mumbai, three, maximum four days should be enough to get a pretty complete picture of this, so to speak, exhausting city. At the beginning of your stay, you may need advice on what to see in the city, which stretches 20 km from north to south. Then contact the Indian Tourism Bureau (India Tourism Office) located opposite Churchgate train station (Churchgate)... Then start from the same place as King George V and Queen Mary during their visit in 1911, namely, from the headland at the end of the Apollo promenade. Today the world famous Gateway of India is located on this site. (Gateway of India), a monument that excites more with its symbolism than its beauty (of course, depending on how you think about the splendor of the British Empire after which it was installed)... In his Ballad of East and West, Rudyard Kipling insisted that "these two will never meet," but the British did their best to achieve this by setting triumphal arch, generally marked by a pronounced Romanesque style, four domes are characteristic of Gujarat architecture. This monument was inaugurated in 1924. 24 years later, the Somerset Light Infantry Regiment, the last British units leaving India, solemnly marched through the India Gate.

Today, the arch is a favorite meeting place for locals and those who like to watch what is happening around. Giant balloon sellers, photographers, beggars and barkers, along with Indian and foreign tourists, create the hubbub of the bazaar. Boats leave from berths to the islands of Elephanta and Mandwa.

The Indian equestrian statue of Shivaji is facing the gate. It was installed in 1961 in honor of this Marathi hero - a Hindu nationalist - a fighter against the oppression of the Great Mughals.

Behind the statue is the Taj Mahal Hotel (Taj Mahal Hotel), built by a member of the Tatas family, a Persian industrialist. It is said that the idea came to him when he was refused admission to Watson's, best hotel in the town. From an architectural point of view, the hotel is a combination of Western and Eastern styles. The atmosphere of former romance will blow your mind as you settle into the Sea Hall for a cup of tea. Apart from the memorial in memory of the 31 people who died here, not a trace of the destruction that occurred here in November 2008, when Islamic terrorists chose the hotel as one of the targets in an attack on the main tourist and business district of the city, remained.

Raj District

To the northwest of the Taj Mahal, in the area around the Maidan, the heart of British Mumbai, a connoisseur can appreciate architecture that a fan would call "eclectic" and an opponent "wacky."

The building of the old Secretariat is mainly attributed to the Venetian Gothic style; the university library towards French Gothic; telegraph building - to the Romanesque style; the building of the Supreme Court and the Cathedral of St. Thomas - in the early English style. The architects were British, but the builders and designers were Indians, and they are masters of adding details reminiscent of Rajput fortresses or Mughal palaces.

The influence of the national style is felt in the octagonal spire of the Rajabay clock tower on the university building (Rajabai Clocktower)... It is adorned with 24 figures representing the castes of the former district of Bombay, of which it was the capital. In the Cathedral of St. Thomas, even ardent opponents of imperialism can be touched by some heartbreaking epitaphs for those who died in military or civil service for their country. For fans of the period of British rule in India, Victoria Station is a great example of the Indian Gothic style. (Victoria Terminus)... Previously, it was called VT for short, and now it is CST. (Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus)... Impressive, opulent and always crowded, this building is considered the most extravagant piece of Gothic in the city, the beating heart of its railway network and an example of colonial Indian architecture. As historian Christopher London put it, "Victoria Station means to the British government what the Taj Mahal means to the Mughal Empire." It is a mix of Victorian, Hindu and Islamic styles, with buttresses, domes, turrets, spiers and stained glass windows.

Opened on the day of the jubilee in 1857, it served as both the starting point for India's first railroad and a symbol of all that the British had by then achieved on the Indian subcontinent; a symbol of their pride, power and seemingly limitless potential.

Northwest of Victoria Station is the bustling Crawford Market (Crawford Market), which after the establishment of independence began to be called Mahatma Jyotiba Fule (Mahatma Jyotiba Phule)... Behind a brick facade with a gate, the friezes of which are decorated with bas-reliefs made by Kipling's father, the stalls retain their original position: vegetables - to the left; fruits and flowers - to the right; fish, lamb and poultry are straight ahead.

Uptown

Behind Crawford Market lies the heart of Mumbai, where Indians from all over the country compete in bazaars with lively Maharashtra merchants. (Mumbai is its capital)... Among the colorful Hindu temples and mosques in the neighboring Muslim neighborhoods, Jain merchants sell gold in the Zaveri bazaar, and on other streets they sell products made of silver, brass, copper, leather, and lace.

Another famous landmark of the city is the Marine Drive Embankment (Marine Drive), which starts from Nariman Point and reaches the residential area of ​​Malabar Hill (Malabar Hill) skirting around Back Bay. A must-see place is Chowpatty Beach, not because you can sunbathe and swim there, but because it is one of the most extensive places in Western India where you can watch people: fakirs walk on fire, sleep on nails, walk on ropes or bury their heads in the sand; food vendors offer kulfi ice cream, as well as betel nut and belpuri, local spices.

Museums

Chhatrapati Shivaji Museum (Chatrapati Shivaji Museum)- formerly called the Prince of Wales Museum - located at the end of Mahatma Gandhi Road. It was built in 1871. The building includes elements of medieval Gujarati and Bijapur architecture, as well as the urban architecture of Manchester. It contains a collection of miniatures and valuable sculptures of the 7th century. from the caves of the island of Elephanta. In the nearby Art gallery Jahandir (Jehangir Art Gallery) works that illustrate modern trends in Indian painting are presented.

Bollywood

Mumbai is the glittering hub of the giant Indian Hindi film industry. Starting with silent films exclusively with male actors (some - disguised as women)- the epic 1913 film "Raja Harishchandra" - and the first sound film "Lama Aha" (1931) , now it produces over 1000 films a year: more than Hollywood. Not surprising when you remember that Bollywood is supported by an audience of one-sixth of the world's population, plus sizable Indian communities abroad.

Every part of India has its own regional film studios, but Bollywood continues to represent the nation in its most colorful form: lovers constantly singing and dancing, fighting for love and opposing the forces that try to tear them apart. Now pro-Hollywood thrillers and blockbusters on TV vie for the attention of moviegoers with the usual sugary films that are more family-oriented.

Bollywood stars in India can achieve near-godlike status, and talking about stars has become a favorite pastime in Mumbai's institutions.

Studios sometimes invite Western actors (or use provocative outfits) to add a European twist to the movie. This trend has developed such that 100,000 young actors went on strike in 2008 to protest job losses caused by foreigners who work for less money.

If you're interested in an adventure like this, just take a walk around Colaba, where studios are recruiting people to shoot the next day. Work day 500 rupees. You will receive lunch and something else to eat if filming starts early or ends late. Transport is usually 2nd class trains unless there are enough tourists to hire private transport. A shooting day can take quite a long time, in addition, heat and stress should be taken into account; not everyone is happy with this experience. Sometimes people complain about lack of food and water or about dangerous situations and intimidation, and invited Western actors do not complain about this. Some people find this experience exciting. Always ask for a recruiter's ID before agreeing and listen to your gut!

Mumbai: a foodie's paradise

In Mumbai, you can find culinary masterpieces not only from all over India, but also from all over the world. You shouldn't hold back, because you should definitely try Parsi dhansak (seasoned meat with lentils and rice), Gujarati or Kerala thali (a set of dishes from the series "eat as much as you like"), kebab from Great Mughal cuisine, Goan and Mangalore seafood. And don't forget: if a Bombay duck is listed on the menu, it is actually a sun-dried and deep-fried bombil fish.

It is very important to visit the famous Mumbai beach and visit one of the bhelpuri located on Girga um Chowpatty, where you can enjoy the taste of crispy fried thin tortillas with steamed rice, lentils, lemon juice, onions, herbs, paprika and tamarind chutney. Other establishments offer rice dishes, samosas, pav bhaji (vegetables with spices and bread) and wada pav (deep fried lentil and seasoning sandwich)- so it's best to find time for everything.

Mumbai festival

In January, the Mumbai Festival is held, on this day, scenes are organized throughout the city, food is offered, and dancing takes place. This holiday shows in all its glory the cultural diversity in Mumbai.

Dharavi slums

Mumbai residents mixed feelings regarding the 2008 hit, "Slumdog Millionaire" (in Hindi - "Slumdog Crorepati")... But slums are part of what many would say is the backbone of Mumbai's urban life. Surprisingly, 55% of Mumbai's population lives in slums, and one of the largest slum areas in Mumbai (and in Asia, for that matter) Is Dharavi. Initially, the area inhabited by fishermen consisted of only streams, swamps and islands. It became attractive to migrant workers from southern Mumbai and beyond, and then the swamps began to populate for natural and artificial reasons. The area currently includes 1.75 km between Mumbai's two main rail lines and is home to over a million people.

While it may look a little chaotic, the maze of dusty alleys and sewer streets of this city within the city is, in fact, a cluster of adjacent settlements. Some parts of Dharavi have a mixed population: residents from different parts India and representatives of different professions who have built themselves houses and tiny factories. Saurashtra potters live in one area, Muslim tanners in another; embroidery specialists from Uttar Pradesh work side by side with blacksmiths, workers recycle plastics, and women dry pappadams in the blazing sun next to them. Some of these businesses, about 10,000 in total, sell goods for export, and Dhavari's annual turnover is no less than $ 665 million.

Life in the slums of Mumbai is no different if you take a closer look. Residents pay rent, most homes have kitchens and electricity, and building materials from corrugated iron to multi-story concrete structures. Many families have lived here for generations, and some of Dhavari's young residents even work in offices. But often they decide to stay in the areas where they grew up.

Slum tourism is a controversial topic, so you'll have to decide for yourself. If you decide to visit a slum, Reality Tours & Travel can offer you an amusing trip and a percentage of the profits go back to Dhavari to build community centers and schools. Some tourists decide to visit this area of ​​Mumbai on their own - this is normal, just do without a camera. Take the train from Churchgeit station towards Mahim (12 rupees), exit on the west side, then cross the bridge to Dhavari.

Legendary wadi (village)- this is the bastion of life in Mumbai in the form in which it took place before the emergence of skyscrapers. The Christian enclave of elegant two-story wooden mansions is located 500 meters northeast of Girguam Chowpatty, adjacent to the Indian and Muslim districts of Mumbai. These wind-blown streets offer views of a quiet, calm life, without cars or auto rickshaws. The village is small in every sense, but you can admire these mesmerizing alleys for hours and, most amazingly, all this is one step away from the hustle and bustle of real Mumbai.

To find the village, walk to the Church of St. Teresa (St Teresa "s Church) at the corner of Jagannath Shankarsheth Marg (JS Marg) and RR Roy Marg (Charni Ra) and then turn your back to the church and follow JS Marg until you dive into the second or third alley on the left.

Entertainment

The Daily Mid-Day Overview in English includes information on the main entertainment in Mumbai. Check out the newspapers and Time Out Mumbai for a list of events and movie shows, and at www.nh7.in for live music ratings. Contemporary project Bombay Elektrik Projekt (www.bombayelektrik.com) organizes all kinds of events, from DJs and poetry evenings to short film screenings.

It would be a crime not to go to the cinema in the capital of the Indian film industry. Unfortunately, Indian films are shown without English subtitles. The cinemas listed here show films in English and several Bollywood films.

The busiest club nights (surprisingly) on Wednesday, as well as on the more familiar to us Friday and Saturday; admission is usually paid. There is a dress code in the clubs, so don't stick around in shorts and sandals. Lately, resto lounges are trendy in Mumbai as opposed to crowded nightclubs - high taxes on discos (which does not apply to lounges and restaurants) made the people smarter.

Where to eat

At this gastronomic epicenter, a cornucopia of flavors from all over India clashes with international trends. Colaba is home to most of the cheap tourist eateries, while Fort and Churchgate have better quality restaurants. This trend continues as we move further north towards Mahalakshmi and the Central Suburbs, home to some of the most stunning, upscale and expensive restaurants in Mumbai.

For those who love to cook on their own, Colaba Market is open in Mumbai (Lala Nigam St)... Fresh fruits and vegetables are sold here. A good choice products in Saharkari Bhandar Supermarket (22022248; crossroads of Colaba, Colaba and Wodehouse Rd; 10.00-20.30) and Suryodaya (22040979; Veer Nariman Rd; 7.30-20.30); the second is even better.

Alcohol

Mumbai is quite alcohol-loving, which means there are plenty of places to sell alcohol, from garage-style beer bars and mind-blowing lounges to daring, multi-level superclubs; but do not be surprised when you find in your invoice 25% of the price - tax on alcoholic beverages.

Shopping

Mumbai is the largest market in India, so here Better conditions for shopping in the country.

Anything can be bought at the busy bazaars north of CST. Mumbai's premier trading floor is the Crawford Market , Mangaldas Market (silk and clothing), Zaveri Bazaar (decorations), Bhuleshwar Market (fruits and vegetarian products) and Chor Bazaar (antiques and furniture)... Dhabu St sells leather goods, while Mutton St sells antiques, reproductions and pretty knick-knacks. Crawford market (Mahatma Phule Market)- this is the last outpost of British Bombay, behind which the noise and cries of the central bazaars begin. Bas-reliefs by Father Rudyard Kipling (Rudyard Kipling), Lockwood Kipling (Lockwood Kipling) decorate buildings of Norman-Gothic architecture.

Immerse yourself in the bustling commerce on Fashion Street (Fashion Street)- A strip of shops along MG Rd, between Cross Maidan and Azad Maidan, or in Bangra on Linking Rd, near Waterfield Rd - hone your bargaining skills. Kemp's Corner has a lot of good designer stores.

Many government-owned malls in Mumbai sell handicrafts at the World Trade Center Arcade near Cuffe Parade. Small shops for rare items and antiques are located along Merewether Rd behind the Taj Mahal Palace. It is not cheap here, but the quality makes itself felt - it is an order of magnitude higher than in state shopping centers. If you like things from the colonial era, head to Chor Bazaar: the busiest street is Mutton St, where you can find many shops with antiques (as well as many ingenious fakes, so be on your guard) and various old stuff.

Food Delivery Man in Mumbai (Dabba Walla)

A small miracle of logistics - 5,000 food delivery men or, as they are called, dabba-wallahs (dabba means a container of food; there are also tiffin-wallahs) Mumbai tirelessly delivers hot meals to office workers throughout the city.

Lunch boxes are picked up from homes and restaurants each time and delivered on heads, bicycles and trains to the central marshalling yard. A complex system of numbers and colors (many of the delivery men are illiterate) dictates where to bring the lunch. They serve over 200,000 meals daily - always on time, despite (monsoon) rain or (scorching) Sun.

This system has been used for centuries and on average there is only one mistake for every six million deliveries. Not surprisingly, the dabba wallas are extremely proud of their work.

Great Wall of Mumbai

This art initiative is somewhat reminiscent of the East Side Gallery in Berlin. (although there hasn't been 28 years of oppression and isolation in Mumbai)... Wall project (www.thewallproject.com) started with a few graduate students in art and design who decided to paint the walls of neighboring houses with local drawings and artistic graffiti. The idea soon turned into a public project that exploded the walls of every house on the outskirts of Bandra, from residential to hospitals, in color. The number of drawings began to increase as weeds and soon, dilapidated buildings and abandoned walls turned into a real museum of modern urban art. At the time of this writing, hundreds of artists (and just amateurs) more than 600 drawings have already been drawn, the longest strip of which started from the Mahim station (West) on Tulsi Pipe Rd (Senapati Bapat Marg) and along the Western Railway to the Matunga Rd stop. It is called the Great Wall of Mumbai.

Anyone can leave a drawing here as long as there is no literal sexual, political, religious or commercial message in it. Get some acrylic tempera - this is the best paint to use because of the tough weather conditions- and start creating!

Transport in Mumbai

To / from airports

International Airport:

A taxi pre-order kiosk is located near the international airport. Here you can hire a taxi at fixed prices to any area of ​​the city; Colaba, Fort and Marine Drive cost with / without air conditioning Rs 495/395, Bandra West Rs 310/260 and Juhu Rs 235/190. In addition, the service fee is Rs 10 and each piece of baggage is Rs 10. You will be taken to Colaba in 45 minutes at night and in 1.5-2 hours in the afternoon. You don't need a tip.

You can find auto rickshaws near the arrival terminal, but do not try to drive with them to the southern part of Mumbai: auto rickshaws can only take you to Mahim Creek. You can go on an autorickshaw (about 40 rupees) to Andkheri railway station and change to suburban train (7 rupees, 45 minutes) to Churchgate station or CST. Such a trip only makes sense if you arrived during the day and not during rush hour. (6.00-11.00) , and besides, even without heavy luggage.

Minibuses near the arrivals gate provide free access to the airport for domestic flights and to hotels in Juhu.

Taxis from South Mumbai to the International Airport will cost Rs 350-400 if you bargain well; the official luggage fee is Rs 10 per piece. From midnight to 5 am - plus 25% to the cost. We loved the old black and yellow taxis, but Meru also offers decent air-conditioned taxis with a meter. (44224422; www.merucabs.com)... The price is 20 rupees for the first km and 14 rupees for all subsequent (25% more expensive at night)... The route is determined by GPS, so you will not be fooled!

Domestic airport:

There are autoshaws and taxis near all domestic terminals. You can pre-order a car right at the gate for arrivals. Taxi without / with air conditioning to Colaba or Fort costs 350/400 at any time of the day, plus 10 rupees for luggage. In Juhu - 150/200 rupees.

More cheap alternative Is an auto rickshaw from the airport to the Vile Parle train station (20-30 rupees) and from here the train to Churchgate (7 rupees, 45 minutes)... Don't even try to drive this way during rush hour (6-11 hours).

Boat

In PNP (22885220) and Maldar Catamarans (22829695) there are regular boats to Mandwa island (one way 110 rupees)... From here you can reach Murud Janjir and other parts of the Konkan coastline without having to bounce around on the bus. Ticket offices are located at the Apollo pier (Apollo Bunder; near the Gateway to India).

Bus

Single-decker and double-decker buses in Mumbai are good choices for short-distance travel. Price in South Mumbai is Rs 3 per stop; pay the conductor at the entrance. This service is provided by BEST (www.bestundertaking.com), with garage in Colaba (the site has the ability to search bus routes by the city)... For a cheap view of southern Mumbai, simply hop in double-decker bus (e.g. bus 103)... A day pass costs Rs 25.

Car

Cars are usually rented for a day (maximum eight hours and 80 km)... If you exceed the allowed limit, you will have to pay extra. The best price for an air-conditioned car is about Rs 1,000.

An agent at the booth at the Apollo Wharf near the Gateway to India can arrange for a Maruti with driver, but no air conditioning, for a half-day excursion for Rs 1,000 (you will have time to reach Mahalakshmi and Malabar Hill)... Ordinary taxi drivers often agree to this price too.

Metro

The US $ 8.17 billion metro project in Mumbai was never completed. The Colaba-Bandra-Airport line would be very useful for tourists, but it will take several more years to complete.

Motorcycle

Allibhai Premji Tyrewalla (www.premjis.com; 205/207 Dr D Bhadkamkar Rd; 10.00-19.00 Mon-Sat) has been selling new and used motorcycles for about a century with a guaranteed return option when you no longer need it. If you want to rent a bike for two or three weeks, you still have to pay for it. full cost... The company is more fond of long-term deals of two months or more. In any case, it comes out cheaper. Used Hero Honda Karizma 150cc cm or 225 cc cm costs from 725,000 to 780,000, while it will be bought back from you for about 60% in three months (sometimes there are "Enfields" with a large engine capacity)... Smaller bike (100-180 cc) you can take from 725 000. The company can arrange sending a motorcycle abroad by sea (about 724,000 to UK).

Taxi and auto rickshaws

It seems that every second car in Mumbai is a yellow and black Premier taxi (Indian version of 1950s Fiat)... The car is the most convenient way to get around the city, and in the southern part of Mumbai, drivers almost always count the cost correctly according to the meter. There are autoshaws only on the northern outskirts of Mahim Creek.

Not all drivers know the names of city streets (especially new ones) so it is better to use some sights to explain where you want to go. Fares increased in 2010, and now the meter starts to work from 16 rupees during the day (Rs 20 after midnight) for the first 1.6 km and then 10 rupees per kilometer (12 rupees after midnight)... The minimum cost of an auto-rickshaw is 11 rupees.

Let's not point a finger, but Mumbaikar taxis and auto-rickshaws can cash in on foreigners from time to time. You may be tricked by rickshaws and taxi drivers who use old meters (fixed outside on the left)... The cost of a taxi with an old meter will be approximately 16 times higher than the indicated one. To prevent this from happening, print out a handy fare converter, you can get it from Mumbai Traffic Police (www.trafficpolicemumbai.org/Tariffcard_ Auto_taxiJorm.htm)- that's the whole conversation (until next time).

A train

Mumbai has a good but crowded commuter train network.

There are three main lines, so it's pretty easy to figure it out. Most Useful Direction - From Churchgate North to Charni Rd Stations (for transfer to Girgaum Chowpatty), Mumbai Central, Mahalaxmi (for transfer to Dhobi Ghat), Vile Parle (for domestic flights), Andheri (for international flights) and Borivali (for national park Sanjay Gandhi)... Other commuter lines connect CST and Baykulla (for Veermata Jijabai Bhonsle Udyan, former Victoria Gardens), Dadar and Neral (for Materan)... Trains run from 4.00 to 1.00. Ticket prices are from Churchgate, 2nd / 1st class 4/41 at Mumbai Central, 77/78 at Wile Parle or Andheri and 79/104 at Borivali.

Mumbai Neighborhood

Elephanta island

From Mumbai you can take a pleasant boat excursion to the 7th century temple caves. on the island of Elephanta. A ferry goes there from the Apollo embankment. Known as Gharapuri, the Holy City of the Kings, the island was named Elephanta by Portuguese sailors. Although their muskets damaged many of the sculptures of the gods in the caves, there are still enough of them to make a stop on the island. Carved into the rocky hills in the center of the island, the caves contain some of the finest examples of sculpture Ancient India including the famous image of Trimurti, the three-headed Shiva, whose imposing profile has become almost as recognizable as the symbol of India as the Taj Mahal.

Known as "Maheshmurti", the panel occupies the wall of one of the largest caves in the complex. While there is some disagreement as to the date of this magnificent relief, scholars are unanimous in the opinion that it is an outstanding piece of Indian sculpture: there is no other ancient statue in the entire Indian subcontinent that emanates a living feeling of such power and serenity. On both sides there are impressive bas-reliefs depicting mythological scenes. The main entrance to the cave is guarded by a multi-armed, frightening deity (dvarapala) A fawn in Sanjay Gandhi Park comes to the boy every day for food.

It’s hard to believe that just 1.5 hours drive from the crowded metropolis there is a protected tropical forest with an area of ​​104 sq. km. (28866449; adult / child 30/15, transport on two wheels / on four wheels 15/50 rupees; 7.30-18.00)... Here, instead of the pollution and crowds of Mumbai, you will see vibrant flora, birds, butterflies and elusive leopards surrounded by forested mountains on the northern outskirts of the city. Urbanization and urban shacks try to squeeze into this wilderness, but the status of a national park keeps the forest green and quiet.

To escape for a day from brain-blasting Mumbai, you can choose the well-trodden paths to Shilonda Falls (Shilonda) and lakes Vihar and Tulsi (Vihar and Tulsi), safari in search of lions and tigers, and Kanheri caves (Kanheri)

Best time to arrive

October to March.

Special offers for hotels

Road to Mumbai and back

Airplane

Mumbai is the main international gateway to southern India and is also the busiest domestic airport. Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (Chhatrapa-ti Shivaji International Airport; domestic flights 26264000, international flights 26813000; www.csia.in), located about 30 km from the city center. Since 2006, it has been modernized in the amount of $ 2 billion. At the time of this writing, there were three internal (1A, 1B and 1C) and one international terminal (2A)... The airport terminal for domestic flights, known as Santa Cruz Airport, can be reached via Vile Parle, while the international airport is four kilometers on Andheri and is called Sahar by locals. Both terminals have ATM machines, currency exchange and tourist information booths. A free shuttle bus runs between airports every half hour; to get into it, you need to have a plane ticket. By 2014, the shiny new T2 Terminal will be ready to serve both domestic and international flights, and Santa Cruz will become a cargo airport.

International airlines:

It is best to book your ticket through a travel agency or the Internet, because even in offices you are constantly redirected to call centers.

The following airlines are located in Mumbai:

• Air India (27580777, airport 26156633; www.airindia.com; Air India building, corner of Marine Dr and Madame Kama Rd, Nariman Point; 9.15-18.30 Mon-Fri until 17.15 Sat and Sun)
• Cathay pacific (66572222, airport 66859002/3; www.cathaypacific.com; 2 Brady Gladys Plaza, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel; 9.30-18.30 Mon-Sat)
• Emirates airlines (40974097; www.emirates.com; 3 Mittal Chambers, 228 Nariman Point; 9.00-17.30 Mon-Sat)
• El al airlines (66207400, airport 66859425/6; www.elal.co.il; 7th floor, NKM International House, VM Chinai Marg, Nariman Point; 9.30-17.30 Mon-Fri, until 13.00 Sat)
• Qantas (61111818; www.qantas.com.au; 5th floor, Sunteck Center, 37-40 Subhash Rd, Vile Parle; 9.00-13.15 and 14.30-17.30 Mon-Fri)
• Swiss (67137240; www.swiss.com; 3rd Floor, Vashani Chambers, New Marine Ln, 9; 9.00-17.30 Mon-Sat)
• Thai airways (61395599; www.thaiair.com; 2A Mittal Towers Wing A, Nariman Point 9.30-17.30 Mon-Fri, until 16 Sat)

Domestic airlines:

• GoAir (call center 1800 222111, airport 26264/89; www.goair.in)
• Indian airlines (22023031, call center 1800 1801407; www.indianairlines.nic.in; Air India building, corner of Marine Dr and Madame Kama Rd, Nariman Point)
• IndiGo (call center 18001803838; www.goindigo.in)
• Jet airways (call center 39893333, airport 26266575; www.jetairways.com; Amarchand Mansion, Madame Kama Rd; 9.30-18.00 Mon-Fri, 13.00 Sat)
• JetLite (call center 1800 225522; www.jetlite.com)
• Kingfisher / Kingfisher Red (Call Center 1800 2331310, Airport 26262605; www.flykingfisher.com; Nirmal Building, Marine Dr, Nariman Point; 9.00-19.00 Mon-Sat, 10.00-14.00 Sun)

  Private company buses are generally more convenient and easier to book, but they cost an order of magnitude more than government buses; Departure from Dr Anadrao Nair Rd near Central Railway Station in Mumbai. Prices on popular destinations (e.g. Goa) in high season they increase up to 75%. To find out the departure time and current prices, contact the National STS (23015652; Dr Anadrao Nair Rd; 7.00-22.00).

  
  

  It is more convenient to travel to Goa and other southern cities by Chandni Travels buses (22713901) which depart three times a day from Azad-Maidan (Azad Maidan), south of the Metro cinema. Ticket agents are located near the departure point.

  Long-distance government buses depart from Central Bus Station in Mumbai (Mumbai Central bus terminal; 23074272/1524) near the central railway station Mumbai. Buses run to major cities in Maharashtra and neighboring states. They are cheaper and more frequent than private buses, but the quality of service and the number of people can vary.

  A train

  There are three rail lines in Mumbai, with the best service offered by Central Railways and Western Railways.

  
  

  A ticket to any destination can be bought at any station, in the southern part of Mumbai or in the suburbs where there are computerized ticket offices. At Central Railways (134) there are trains heading east, south and several trains heading north from CST. Preliminary cash desk (139; 8.00-20.00 Mon-Sat, until 14.00 Sun) located near the taxi rank on the CST. Tickets at prices for foreigners (tourist-quota tickets; window 52) can be purchased 90 days before travel, but they must be paid in foreign currency or rupees with a receipt from a bank or ATM. Indrail travel passes can be bought at window 52. You can buy tickets at regular prices using Visa or MasterCard at more convenient and faster cash desks where credit cards are accepted (10 and 11) for an additional 30 rupees. Refunds for Indians and foreigners are made in window 8.

  Some Central Railways trains depart from Dadar Station (D)- a few stops north of CST or Churchgate / (Lokmanya Tilak; T) 16km north of CST.

  On Western Railways (131,132) trains run north (including up to Rajasthan and Delhi) from Mumbai Central Station (Mumbai Central (MC); 23061763, 23073535) commonly referred to as Bombay Central (Bombay Central; VST)... Preliminary cash desk (8.00-20.00 Mon-Sat, until 14.00 Sun), located opposite Churchgate train station, here you can buy a ticket for a tourist quota (window 14)... Same rules as on DXI (CST). Credit cards take in the window number 6.

  Low Price Calendar

  in contact with facebook twitter

Mumbai (aka Bombay until 1995) is the largest Indian city with a population of more than 21 million people. This is the economic and cultural center of the country: the offices of the world's most famous corporations, fashionable hotels and haute couture shops are located here. Here, in the world famous "Bollywood", most of Indian films and TV shows are filmed. Here in search better life people flock from all over the country and from all over the world. And yet Mumbai is at peace! Mumbai is absolutely different from the rest of India: both in its colonial architecture, which is breathtaking, and in how organically representatives of different cultures and religions coexist here. When you get to Mumbai, you seem to be transported from dirty, noisy India to Bombay of Kipling's time and, despite the life raging around, it seems that time has stopped. Here's how to get there, where to stay and what to do in this amazing city.

Guide content:

Many airlines fly to Mumbai and it is often possible to catch a ticket at a decent discount. However, there are no direct flights either from Minsk, Kiev or Moscow. Arabic flies from Minsk with a transfer to Abu Dhabi Etihad... The cheapest flight is from Moscow Aeroflot, however, here you will have a long transfer in Delhi.

If you want to visit the Indian capital at the same time, then you can leave Delhi for Mumbai in two ways. Local low-cost airline IndiGo from $ 30 per ticket. The flight will take 2 hours. By train, which will get to Mumbai for a day, for about the same cost in a 3rd class carriage. Train timetables, availability and ticket prices can be found on the Indian Railways website.

The most comfortable way to get from the airport to the city center is by taxi. There are Pre-paid Taxi counters with a fixed fare in the terminal building. A ride to the city center starts at $ 7.

In Mumbai, heavy traffic often leads to hours of traffic jams. Therefore, if you arrived during peak hours, it is faster to get to the city center by train. Mumbai Suburban Railway Network... The nearest Vile Parle station from the airport can be reached by taxi, rickshaw or bus: No. 312 (from Terminal 1) and No. 321 (from Terminal 2).

Comfortable BEST shuttles also run from the airport to the city center every 15-20 minutes. You can view the bus route and build it for yourself on the company's website.

To find out everything you need to know about public transport in Mumbai, download the app m-indicato... This is an irreplaceable thing in the city! With its help, you can build bus and railway routes, find out the timetable of transport, calculate the cost of taxi rides.

In Mumbai, rickshaws and bombils are prohibited, only official taxis. True, at peak times and at night, the taxi driver may refuse to take you along the meter, requesting a large amount. Trade for the decline.

The most comfortable way to travel short distances in the city is to take a taxi. The first kilometer of the track according to the meter costs $ 0.25, then $ 0.15 per km. Don't forget to remind the driver to turn on the meter!

The Mumbai Suburban Railway Network has 4 lines and connects remote areas of the city. The fare depends on the distance and starts at $ 0.07 for a couple of stations. Tickets are bought at the ticket offices at the stations. As a rule, the train consists of class 1 carriages (differing in price, but not in comfort - from $ 0.70) and some purely female carriages.

Bus service in Mumbai is very developed. As a rule, all signs on city buses are in Hindi, including numbers. You can try to learn counting in Hindi, but it is still extremely difficult to navigate without Arabic numerals in the bus traffic.

Surprisingly, it can be difficult to find a place to live in Mumbai: prices are 3 times higher than the national average (on Booking.com even higher), hotels are often overcrowded, many hotels only accommodate Indians, only men, or only Indian men! Couchsurfers themselves do not recommend stopping through Couchserfing.com. In addition, web-based accommodation booking services in India are not so common, especially for budget accommodation.

Inexpensive guesthouse can be found by walking down the street Shahid Bhagat Singh Road (Colaba Causeway) where the famous Leopold Cafe... 4-5 star hotels are located nearby along the fashionable Marine Drive. Mid-range hotels are scattered between the two indicated streets.

Salvation army house or the House of the Salvation Army (43/45, BEST Marg, Apollo Bandar, Colaba) ... Its 4-storey building is located just behind the famous Taj Mahal Palace. The Salvation Army is a Protestant charity that helps the homeless and the poor. Now the building has been completely converted into a hostel: both dorms and private rooms (AC and NonAC) are offered. Exactly this cheap place in Mumbai! The cost of a night with breakfast starts at $ 5 (for a bed in the dorm). There are always few vacancies; you can only book in advance for groups. Salvation Army is also famous for its peculiar "paramilitary" atmosphere: barracks-style dorms, personnel in military uniforms, an ascetic dining room, lack of hot water and thousands of travelers from all over the world! Negative: no bed linen and no hot water. Plus: price, breakfast, location and atmosphere.

Hotel Volga II (Rustam Manzil, 1st floor, Above Leopord Cafe, NF Road, Colaba) located right next to the Leopold Cafe (very small shabby sign, you have to climb the stairs to the 2nd floor) - a popular budget place. Private rooms (AC and NonAC) are the cheapest on Colaba. Prices for NonAC room with shared bathroom start at $ 10. Cons: Small rooms, no breakfast. Plus: price, location.

Apollo Hotel (Mathuradas Estate building, Mathuradas Estate Building, 43/45 Colaba Causeway, Colaba) ... A small guesthouse occupies the 1st floor of a residential building. Rooms (AC and NonAC) start at $ 10 / night. Negative: small rooms, no breakfast. Plus: price, location.

Carlton Hotel 1 * (Florence House, No.12, MereWeather Road, Behind Taj Mahal Hotel) - a passable hotel for the unpretentious. Small, no-frills rooms make up for in excellent location. Great for falling and falling asleep after a busy day in Mumbai. Rooms (AC and NonAC) from $ 12 per night.

Bentley Hotel Marine Drive 2 * (Krishna Mahal, 3rd Floor, Marine Drive, Churchgate) - a decent hotel in a historic building located right on Marine Drive, within walking distance of Churchgate train station, but far from Colaba. But jogging on the morning Marine Drive is guaranteed! Modern rooms with breakfast from $ 45 / night. Some of the rooms overlook the bay. Minus: distance from Colaba. Plus: breakfast, Marine Drive.

Bentley "s Hotel 3 * (17, Oliver Road, Colaba) is a no-frills quality hotel with large AC rooms and private bathrooms. Wi-Fi only at the reception, in India it is called "in public areas". Cost of a night from $ 45. Plus: location, breakfast, large rooms, building after renovation.

Taj Mahal Palace 5 * (Apollo Bunder, Colaba) ... To fully feel the spirit of British Bombay, you should stay in the city's most famous 5-star hotel, built in the century before last. Taj Mahal is a museum and a hotel in one bottle. Famous artists and musicians, politicians and members of royal families have stayed here. Rooms are decorated in Indian style, some of them overlook the Arabian Sea and India Gate. The hotel has several restaurants, SPA, swimming pool. Nightly rates start at $ 215.

Mumbai is a city where poverty and wealth do not coexist so organically in the world. The city's business center with major attractions, hotels, restaurants, bars and nightlife is located in the south in the Colaba area. In the north of Mumbai, there are world famous slum quarters.

In the mid-90s, the city underwent a large-scale renaming. Therefore, get used to the fact that almost any landmark or institution has two names: the old well-known and the new, as a rule, difficult to pronounce. Until now, many establishments in Mumbai are called Bombay.

Rich mumbai

Mumbai's nightlife is in full swing until 2 am. After all the establishments are closed, in the city this is strict. Bars are usually open until midnight. Most nightclubs prefer Indian music!

Aer (Four seasons Hotel Mumbai, 1/136, 34th Floor, Hotel Rooftop, Dr. E. Moses Road, Worli) - A pretentious rooftop bar at the Four Seasons Hotel with stunning views of Mumbai. Expats prefer to gather here to admire the city over a cocktail and pleasant conversation.

Trilogy (Hotel Sea Princess, 969, Juhu Tara Rd, Airport Area, Juhu) ... The two-story club, loved by the Bombay people, is located near Santracruz West Airport. On Saturday, the entrance fee can go up to $ 20.

Wink (Vivanta by Taj President, 90, Cuffe Parade) is one of the most glamorous bars in Mumbai. Located in the Vivanta by Taj President hotel and open until midnight. Japanese food and a pint of beer starting at $ 7.

China House (Grand Hyatt Mumbai Off Near Bandra Kurla Complex, Western Express Hwy, Vakola, Santacruz East) ... Another popular club for the locals is the Grand Hyatt in Santracruz. Strict face control operates here. On Fridays, the club is open until 3 am. It is also famous for its excellent Chinese cuisine.

Tryst (Phoenix Mill Compound, High Street Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel) is one of the most popular and expensive clubs among the residents of Mumbai. You will have to pay $ 15-30 to enter, depending on the day of the week, Saturday is the most expensive. Renting a table will cost $ 450.

Hype (Atria, The Millenium Mall, R1, 4 / F, Dr Annie Beasant Road, Worli) ... If you want to plunge into the atmosphere of a Bollywood party, then you need to go to Hype. The club is often visited by Indian movie stars, remixes of famous Bollywood songs and theme parties are organized here.

Colaba causeway (Shahid Bhagat Singh Road) ... Along the street there are shops and stalls with everything a tourist needs: souvenirs, magnets, clothes, shoes, jewelry. True, the quality is poor. If you want to buy some really good Indian stuff, it's worth going to the local markets. Prices for small souvenirs are lower than the national average.

Book breakdowns on Mahatma gandhi road(in the Flora Fountain area). In India, books in English cost mere pennies. For example, a large collection of Kafka can be bought on the market for $ 4. On the back of the books, the publisher prints the recommended price, but even here you can and should bargain!

Chor bazaar (Mutton St, Kumbharwada) ... Mumbai's largest flea market boasts a variety of antiques and antiques that sell for pennies. Find Victorian furniture and furnishings here, quirky musical instruments and vintage bollywood posters. The latter are in the store with a huge Mini Market sign.

Mangaldas Market(Janjiker St, Lohar Chawl, Kalbadevi) is the largest textile market in Mumbai with 200 years of history. They sell the city's finest silks and saris. In a huge number of shops you can find traditional Indian clothes of excellent quality for a low price (outer shirts, harem pants, scarves, etc.).

Zaveri Bazaar (Sheikh Menon St, Lohar Chawl, Kalbadevi) - the jewelry mecca of Mumbai, where thousands of shops sell cheap jewelry made of yellow gold, beloved by Indians. For jewelry you need to go to Bhuleshwar Market (Marine Lines East, Panjarpole, Bhuleshwar) - this is a real women's paradise, where the glitter of jewelry blinds the eyes! The latter is closed on Sundays.

To the spice market Lalbaug Market (Dinshaw Petit Rd, Lal Baug, Parel) it is worth going for the world famous turmeric, red and Kashmiri chili peppers. You can also find good, pre-packaged spices at any grocery store. For example, at the Sahakari Bhandar supermarket (Colaba Chamber, Ground Floor, Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Colaba) on Colaba.

Buying good tea in India is more of a myth than reality. As often happens, excellent tea is immediately exported, and the Indians drink what is left or powdered (as we have in tea bags). When brewed, it turns out to be very strong and completely tasteless. Of course, in shops and markets they sell leafy teas in beautiful packages especially for tourists. But do not confuse them with that very real Indian tea.

Mumbai map with attractions from the guide

Haggle like the last time in your life! Know, an enterprising Indian for the first time calls the price at least 2 times higher than the real one. You need to bargain for everything except food, medicine and prices in government institutions (transport, post office, etc.). Retail prices are already printed on food and beverage packaging by manufacturers.

Currency. In India, money is changed not by banks, but by special exchangers with the Currency Exchange sign. They charge a fee of 7% of the amount and set not the most favorable rate, so it is better to change it on the black market (both from dollars to rupees and vice versa). In Mumbai, it is profitable to change money at Colaba Causeway (Shahid Bhagat Singh Road). Just walk along the market street and the money changers will come up to you. You have to bargain for the course! Focus on the official exchange rate minus a dozen or so Indian cents. The more you change the amount, the better the rate you ask for.

Internet. In connection with the 2008 terrorist attacks in Mumbai, the strictest security measures have been taken. This is primarily reflected in the availability of communications and the Internet. It may well happen that your roaming stops working in the city. There is no access to Wi-Fi in public places, only in rare cafes and restaurants, as well as in hotels of medium and high price categories. At the same time, in order to connect to the network, they may be required to present a passport and restrict access during the day.

If you need to always be in touch, you should connect a local SIM card. 1 GB mobile internet will cost about $ 4-5. This can be done at any street stand with the icons of mobile operators. With Colaba Causeway (Shahid Bhagat Singh Road) and Bharucha Road, they are at every step. To connect, you need a copy of your passport and visa, 2 photos 3x4 and, optionally, a receipt for the hotel payment. Activation of a purchased SIM card can take from several hours to a couple of days. This process is quite complicated and consists in the fact that the mobile operator carefully checks your data and be sure to call the hotel to confirm that you are staying there. The SIM card can be used all over the country and you can top up your account anywhere.

India's airports are allowed only upon presentation of an air ticket. Make sure that it is downloaded to your smartphone. If you arrived and left the airport, you will not be allowed back, because ticket has been used. Therefore, first of all, try to change money or withdraw it from an ATM in the airport building; it will be almost impossible to do this on the street.

First aid kit. If you have never drunk sedatives in your life, take a stronger and more cheerful one with you to India. You can start taking them already at the airport. Don't flatter yourself, this is India, you can't get off with a simple valerian here. Also, make sure you have a complete set of medications for digestive problems with you. Don't forget the gastal and hand sanitizer. If you have asthma or lung problems, take antihistamines, a thick face mask (you can buy at any pharmacy in Mumbai) and do not walk around the city in the morning when smog descends on the streets. The air in Mumbai is so polluted, especially in winter, that unaccustomed tourists often become allergic to it. If this happens, go straight to the nearest hospital, they will give out special strong antihistamines against air allergies.

What to take with you. Make several copies of your passport and visa, they are needed when checking into hotels and connecting a SIM card. India has its own concepts of purity and whiteness of white, so it will not be superfluous to take bed linen with you, which is not a pity. If you are going to travel around the country or go to Goa by train, take a light sleeping bag. If you are going north, the sleeping bag is denser. Not all the streets of Mumbai are lit in the evening, and in Goa there is no street lighting at all, so a flashlight will not be superfluous. It is better to bring hygiene supplies with you; in India it can be extremely difficult to find them. Indians do not use toilet paper; they sell it to tourists for about $ 1 per roll.

How to become a disco dancer? In "Bollywood" they organize boring and insanely expensive excursions, where at best they will show one small film studio. Do you want to see Bollywood from the inside? Head out into the daytime to Leopold Cafe (Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Near Colaba Police Station, Colaba Causeway) or Salvation army house (43/45, BEST Marg, Apollo Bandar, Colaba), where Bollywood casting managers hang out and Western youth gather for extras. A European face in an Indian film is prestigious! The filming process takes all day, but you will plunge into the world of Indian cinematography and earn about $ 7 for filming.

Text - Ekaterina Borisova, photo - KIDKUTSMEDIA, marina.shakleina,

To follow the updates on 34travel, subscribe to our pages in

Today we will tell you about Mumbai - the largest and richest city in India and the most populous in the world.About sleeper buses, a big city wash, an electric washing machine, and another wedding - this time a Muslim one.

Bom bahai- these words, according to legend, were uttered by the Portuguese, having landed here, and this meant - "Good Harbor". This is how the first name of the city of Bombay appeared, then the British altered it in their own way - Bombay, and after gaining independence the city received its modern name.

Many Indians believe that Mumbai is more intended for life in general and making money in particular than the capital, Delhi (in one of the previous posts we just talked about our who came here to work). We spent 5 days here walking around Colaba, Marina Bay andacting in films.

We arrived from Mumbai by night bus. These buses turned our minds upside down, because it was then that we learned that there are sleeper buses, i.e. with shelves for sleeping! The configuration of the bus is as follows - on the left side there are shelves one below the other (like the sidewalls in a reserved seat), and on the right, the lower part is reserved for seating, and the upper one for .. double shelves !! Moreover, the shelves are closed from strangers with a latch, so that complete privacy is ensured.

When we rode in Europe in 2007 trailer, it was forbidden to lie there while driving, it was necessary to sit in armchairs, wearing seat belts (as far as this rule was observed, this is a separate conversation, but nevertheless), but here, please - official sleeping buses.

The first thing that surprised us when we got off the bus was the absence auto rickshaw(this is such an integral attribute of India, and they are so ubiquitous that their absence is immediately evident). Instead of them, here are yellow-black taxi cabs

Main tourist area Mumbai is Colaba... Here, on an area of ​​several square kilometers, practically all tourist life is concentrated, at least the concentration of foreigners here is off scale. Hotels - from the cheapest to 5-stars, restaurants - from street eateries to decent European-level establishments, shops, carriages that drive tourists


as well as Bollywood agents looking for white extras - it's all here at Colaba.
Here is the Indian Gate (Gate to India), in front of which, in honor of some holiday, a stage for special events was installed



Nearby one of the most expensive hotels in Mumbai "Taj Mahal"

The top floor of the hotel offers a wonderful view of the city

There is also a port from which you can sail to the islands located nearby.

Fishing boats and small yachts drift in the bay

We sailed to Elephanta Island, two types of ferries go there - more expensive and simpler

We went on the second 🙂 The ferry moors to the pier, from which it takes about 10 minutes to go to the coast, there is a train for an additional fee - Europeans go on foot, and mostly lazy Indians ride on it

Some still refuse to walk

Low tide caused many boats to run aground

On the island you can climb to the top of the mountain



here are partially preserved British cannons that once defended the island. In addition, the island has the "City of Caves" Elephanta Caves, we are not lovers of caves, so we refused to visit.
In the evening, returning to Mumabi, you can admire the sunset city

One of the symbols of Mumbai, the Haji Ali Mosque, is also located on an island, albeit not so distant - at high tide you can reach it by the bridge, and at low tide the bridge is not needed



We unfortunately ended up here on Sunday, when apparently all the Muslims of Mumbai came here.


Not far from the mosque there is another interesting place- Dhobi Gat - This is the largest laundry. Laundry is washed by hand in concrete cells by hundreds of people



They say they bring linen here from most hotels and hospitals in Mumbai

The staff of the "laundry" also live here in the neighborhood.

Walking around the city, we looked at the exhibition, some of the exhibits of which we did not understand

But some are quite curious, such as a washing machine

Water filter
Bicycle assembled from machine parts

In the evening, many tourists and locals gather on the embankment of Marina Drive - this is perfect place for evening exercise

You can stroll slowly along the long and wide embankment for as long as you like, watching the sunset

and admiring the city lit with lights

There is also a beach here, but no one dares to swim, and the Indians do not like to sunbathe, why should they?

Here they have just the opposite - whitening creams are popular. We somehow accidentally saw an advertisement on local television, and so in every second video, a Hindu with a whitewashed face flaunts in front of her girlfriends or men. It's hard to imagine living in a country where a solarium is one of the most popular services =)
Not far from the embankment - a monument to the boot, which is also a place for entertaining children
In the city center, as it should be, a stadium with many cricketers

The local metro in Mumbai (as well as in Bangalore) runs only on the surface, but here it is much older, therefore it looks accordingly


There are two classes in the metro, respectively, II are cheaper and more crowded, I - more decent and freer, as well as female coaches. We accidentally walked into one of these, so the aunts around him hissed at us like snakes. They say the fines are very impressive for such a violation.
On the outskirts of the city, these are the views from the windows of the carriage.

In Mumbai, we lived with three different, completely different people in different parts of the city.
### - lives in an elite area of ​​the city in a small but modern apartment with a plasma screen and other joys of life. Previously, he was a self-employed person, and now, having gained experience, he has become an independent HR consultant and organizer of corporate events. Moreover, he himself loves outdoor activities and specializes, accordingly, in organizing tours for companies - rafting, rock climbing, trekking, etc. Again, it was surprising to learn that India has such concepts as "corporate events" and HR 🙂
$$$ lives with his parents not far from the center, but in a windowless shack with cement floors, peeling walls and a pile of dusty rubbish. At the same time, he is also a businessman - he is engaged in robotics, speaks at conferences in South America, there are customers even from Russia. In addition, $$$ is one of the most active members of the couchsurfer movement in Mumbai, has already received more than a hundred guests, but places them on the floor on a mattress surrounded by hanging drying clothes, so not only Russia cannot be understood with the mind, India is also not easy 🙂
@@@ lives on the outskirts of Mumbai with 2 colleagues. For a three-room apartment an hour's drive from the center, they pay 50,000 rupees - real estate prices here are practically Moscow. At the same time, the employee, who comes twice a day, cleans the apartment, prepares breakfast and dinner, they pay 5,000 rupees a month.
While looking for where @@@ lives, we accidentally got to another wedding - this time a Muslim






The influence of the metropolis was felt here too - the wedding was clearly richer and more elegant, with many decorations

both decorative and natural

And although the principle of self-service was also observed here, tables and chairs were provided for guests.

And the waiters were serving fruit and milkshakes

But its main difference was that there were many meat dishes in the assortment.





and for vegetarians there was only a small corner


And of course, you can't talk about Mumbai, and not mention the film industry, especially since the desire to look at Bollywood from the inside and star in a film was even before we arrived here.
We will tell you about our shooting in Bollywood in the next post, but for now you can read about how we were in

Every person, hearing the words: "Mumbai", "India", will immediately present flexible, dancing women in colorful clothes. He will hear melodious songs that sink into the soul, and will smile, remembering romantic films about love. They are associated with something distant and fabulous, practically inaccessible.

But visiting the country is as easy as shelling pears. And then everything that was known only from film shots would be within walking distance. Before traveling, it is recommended to get acquainted with the information, features, customs and customs. In this case, the trip will pass without unexpected surprises.

Sometimes Mumbai is spoken of as the gateway to India. Let's figure out why this is happening.

A large metropolis very conveniently located. Through it they get to anywhere in the state. In the past it was called Bombay. Only in 1995, the policy was returned to its former name, which existed before, until the moment when the Portuguese settled it. Translated Mumbai means "mother".

The capital of the Indian state is connected to settlements by rail and road. You can get there not only by air, but also in other ways. Therefore, it is called the "gateway" of the country.

Geographic location

It is located on the shores of the Arabian Sea, it stretches along the coast for about 150 km. Part is located on the islands of Salsett and Bombay.

Built on a hilly area. Its highest point above sea level is 450 meters.

Climate and weather

The climate is tropical. This means that the area is characterized by rainy and drought seasons.

The rains begin in March and continue until October. It's humid and hot here. Peak rainy season falls in July-September. Showers seem to flood the streets. But that doesn't happen. The air warms up to +30 degrees and above.

There is no precipitation from November to February. Two months - January and February - are called the coldest. The air temperature does not rise above 10 degrees Celsius.

Many consider this to be the best time to visit. The weather does not interfere with sightseeing and long walks.

Story

Archaeological finds prove that the settlement existed as far back as the 2nd century BC. e. It is believed that then it occupied 7 islands. Tourists travel to Elephant Island to personally inspect the stone caves and ruins of religious buildings that have survived from that era.

At the beginning of the 16th century, the Portuguese invaded and occupied the city. A change in religious beliefs is associated with this. Many Hindus have converted to the Catholic faith. It was then that Mumbai began to be called Bombay.

In the middle of the 17th century, the area where Bombay was located was given as a dowry to the English king. He, in turn, handed over the islands to a trading company. Since then, the harbor has been used for commercial purposes.

The first governor was an Englishman. He took office at the end of the 17th century. But by the beginning of the 19th century, the British considered the location of the policy on the islands inconvenient. Work began to unite the islands into one point. A railway was built. This was a necessity - there was a cotton factory in Bombay, and cotton had to be exported from the country.

By the beginning of the 20th century, Bombay had become a large city with a million inhabitants. Transport routes, large factories contributed to the fact that people from different places began to flock here in search of work.

Now it is the cultural, commercial and economic capital of India.

The most populated metropolis in India, but also the largest port in the west of the country. The population has increased by as much as 50,000 in 15 years. This happened in the middle of the 17th century, with the arrival of the Portuguese.

In the late 19th century, Bombay was the world's center for the sale of cotton. It houses all the major film studios, including Bollywood.

UNESCO, for the preservation of historical and cultural sites, awarded the city with honorary awards.

Population

People of different nationalities come here. This is due to the lack of jobs in the regions. The largest economic capital is inhabited by people of different religions and cultures.

Number of

The population is increasing from year to year. According to the latest data, over 17 million people live here. This is the most populous place in the world. The population density is about 22 thousand per square kilometer.

There are more men, this is due to the fact that it is the representatives of the stronger sex who go to work from villages and villages to large industrial centers.

Official language

Marathi is recognized as the official language, but the majority of the population speaks Hindi. Also residents enjoy English language, almost all residents know him.

Take on a trip English phrasebook, then there will be no problems with communication.

National composition

Most of them are Indians. But since the population is constantly growing, you can meet people of the most unexpected nationalities. In addition, people marry, give birth to children and, at times, themselves cannot answer who they are by nationality.

Religion

More than half of the inhabitants are Hinduism. But with the arrival of the Portuguese, Christianity spread. So you can also meet Catholics. In addition, followers of Buddhism, Judaism and Islam live and the oldest mosque is located.

Economy

Largest center economy. Locality is essential for the whole country. This policy alone gives annually more than 30% of income to the state treasury.

The industrial industry is well developed. Oil is being refined, diamond and gold deposits are being developed. A nuclear power plant has been equipped. Financial institutions are concentrated, including the Reserve Bank of India.

Slums live their lives alongside wealthy, prosperous neighborhoods. Poor people, artisans, those who came here for a better life live in them.

You can clearly see how the poor are trying to survive.

World famous countries cooperate with Mumbai.

City government

Mumbai is the capital of Maharashtra, the state of India, which in turn is subdivided into two parts: Suburb and City. They are also part of the state as separate units.

All power is in the hands of the City Council. The mayor is considered the head of the Council. But this is a formality. It doesn't solve anything. The Maharashtra government appoints the main responsible person - the commission agent. He rules in the policy, the Council obeys to him. In each district (and there are 21 districts in total), an assistant commission agent is appointed who monitors the order and reports on the state of affairs to the leadership.

Social and cultural life

The city is busy cultural life, social programs are being developed to preserve the national heritage. People of different cultures and religions come. They all live peacefully in the same territory.

It is a metropolis where ethnic festivals and celebrations are held. All nationalities participate in them, respect the cultural traditions of another nation.

There are many cinemas, the locals love to visit them. In addition to films, it is famous for exhibitions and galleries.

The public library was founded at the beginning of the 19th century. This is one of the oldest institutions in the cultural capital. It contains not only books and periodicals of past years, but also manuscripts of historical value.

Private and public schools have been opened. Poor strata of the population study in state educational institutions. The authorities are monitoring this. Children are required to attend classes, child labor is discouraged.

Awarded by UNESCO for the preservation national monuments almost intact.

Landmarks and architecture

The architecture is mainly represented by buildings of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. At this time, the British dominated, they also built up the policy. Two styles prevail: neo-gothic and neoclassical. They were characteristic of England. There are buildings built in purely Indian traditions of the 16-18 centuries.

The center is an English fort, the formation of Bombay took place around it. This is a spacious, green area. The Fort contains government offices, banks, shops, offices, educational institutions. The main attractions are concentrated in the Old Fort.

The districts next to the Fort are densely built-up streets. Poor people and newcomers live in them. There are buildings of different styles, there are even houses made of cardboard. The lower floors of residential buildings are occupied by benches. There are also many warehouses, docks.

Along with the rich and prosperous neighborhoods, there are poor, narrow streets. Tourists are attracted by the fact that artisans work on the street. Travelers go to take a look at the process. There is also a cheerful, festive atmosphere here. Family events are celebrated with neighbors, singing and dancing. You can get to one of these holidays while walking.

Bollywood

Cinema is a favorite entertainment and spectacle. Bombay was famous for its movies, and Mumbai has the same reputation.

The first film was released back in 1986, the policy is called the birthplace of Indian cinema. Bollywood is the largest film industry. She was modeled after Hollywood. Bollywood recently celebrated its centenary. Films filmed here are loved in many parts of the world. Singing plays an important role in films. With the help of music, the characters convey feelings and emotions that cover them during the action.

In 2011, Bollywood was opened to the public. This immediately increased the influx of travelers. Many people strive to get here and see how their favorite films from childhood are being filmed. Viewers can even take part in the filming.

Excursions are organized in Bollywood, you can visit it yourself.

Traditional cuisine

Nobody will be hungry. There are catering points everywhere, food vendors walk right along the street. The best restaurants are open in the Old Fort.

The national cuisine is special, it is a combination of Asian and European cuisine. The coexistence of different nations and religions in one place could not but affect food.

Pork and beef are not cooked here. Animals are sacred, you have to make do with poultry or lamb.

There are a lot of different fruits. Bananas and juices are sold very cheaply at every turn.

Of the local dishes, be sure to try:

• crispy pastries masalapapad;
• bhelpuri (fried porridge made of rice, noodles, spiced corn);
• chicken with curry sauce;
• pani puri (rice and potato baked goods).
• Vegetarians will surely appreciate a very special sandwich - wada pav.

Shopping

People come here for silk, jewelry, spices, incense and clothing. The products will be able to be purchased in the markets:

• ChorBazaar;
• ZaveriBazaar;

There are shops with cheap souvenirs on Elephant Island. Shops are also open in all districts.

Among the shopping centers are:

• Central Cottage Industries Emporium;

We offer all kinds of goods according to affordable prices... Reviews of tourists suggest that you should bargain. Manages to bring down the price by almost half. It is recommended to go shopping in the morning. For the first buyers they make a discount. In addition, goods are not always cheaper on the market. Before buying, find out how much the item costs in the store.

Entertainment

Besides excursion programs and shopping, there are other entertainments.

Fans of outdoor activities go to Shivaji Park. Bicycles, rollers, scooters are offered for rent. Places for picnics are equipped. The famous oceanarium is located nearby. Here you can swim with seals and dolphins.

For lovers beach holiday must visit the coast. Tourists are offered a parachute flight, water equipment rental, you can just swim.

For new knowledge, go to the Nehru Center and the Planetarium. These places are great for families with children.

The night metropolis is beautiful. It is full of discos and clubs for every taste. You don't have to look for clubs. Bright showcases are visible throughout the area. Clubs and dance floors are open until the morning. Some nightclubs offer visitors to while away the evening with a roulette wheel.

Transport

There is a great metro here. It will appeal to Russian tourists, as the local metro is similar to the Moscow one. Branches are laid throughout the policy, and there are stops near the main attractions.

Taxis and rickshaws are also available. Prices are reasonable and depend on where the passenger needs to go.

Taxi drivers have a reputation for being scammers. One should be careful and vigilant. The same goes for rickshaws. In addition, there are rickshaws only on the outskirts; in the center, their activities are prohibited.

The ferry also works. Swim to some attractions. For example, to the island of Elephant.

Best time to visit

To determine the time of your visit, think about why you are going there. Long walks to places of interest are best done during the period from late autumn to early spring. Then the heat will come, you won't walk along the asphalt streets for a long time. But it is a great option for visiting museums and beaches.

In the rainy season, the humidity is high, it is stuffy, it rains. If you do not plan to walk around the metropolis, devote your trip to entertainment in closed institutions: visit the aquarium, shopping centers, religious objects.

Russian tourists will be more comfortable in the winter months. Cool weather will allow you to explore historical monuments and enjoy the national beauty.

Vacation prices

This direction has been very popular lately. Exotic, vibrant, with peculiar traditions, rich culture attracts more and more tourists. Despite the popularity, the vacation will become budgetary, if you take into account some of the features when traveling.