What is the ruggedness of the Black Sea coastline. Taman Bay is the confluence of two seas. Proposed environmental measures

The Black Sea, connecting through the Bosphorus and Dardanelles straits, as well as the Marmara and Mediterranean seas with the Atlantic Ocean, is strategically important for Russia. The coastline was conquered by the state, some territories remain the subject of disputes today.

Russian Black Sea coast

(Black Sea coast with resort towns Of Russia)

The length of the Russian coastline The Black Sea today is 1200 km. It starts from the Caucasus Mountains, continues along the coastal strip from Taman to Adler, and includes the Crimean coast.

Its relief is represented by the mountains of the Caucasus and the South Coast of the Crimea, lowlands and estuaries, mainly in the eastern part, as well as steep ledges. In general, the line is weakly indented, there is only one peninsula - Crimea. There are no islands in the Black Sea.

Russia's exit to the Black Sea

For the first time, Russia began to claim access to the Black Sea with the appropriation of coastal lands in the 18th century. It was a victorious war with Turkey, the result of which was the conquest of Anapa and the Crimean peninsula. After that, at the beginning of the 19th century, the settlement of the conquered lands by the Slavs began.

Crimea was given to Ukraine immediately after the collapse of the Soviet Union, but in 2014 the entire peninsula, including the Crimean Black Sea coast, became part of Russia again, and is the subject of disputes with Ukraine and the Western world.

Characteristics of the Black Sea

Depth: maximum 2210 m

Average water temperature (Black Sea coast, Russia): Winter 7.7 ° C, Summer 19 - 24 ° C

Coast: pebbles, gravel, sand and steep stone banks

Climate: mostly continental, the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus and Tuapse have a milder subtropical climate

The location of the coastline of the Russian Black Sea coast and the features of the landscape led to the formation of three climatic zones at once:

  • humid subtropical;
  • Mediterranean;
  • temperate marine.

The underwater world of the Black Sea is represented by dolphins and a species of shark - katrana. The latter are not dangerous for people. Among the commercial fish found in the coastal waters, it is worth noting the flounder, goby and mullet.

Cities on the Black Sea in Russia

(Dune sandy shores Anapa)

Most of the cities on the Russian Black Sea coast have the status of resorts, due to the availability of appropriate resources and climatic conditions on the territory.

Anapa... The most western settlement among the cities of the mainland part of the Russian Black Sea coast. At one time, the capture of the Anapa fortress allowed the Russian government to exercise control over the Black Sea. Today, it is a resort town.

Novorossiysk... The city does not have a resort status, despite the annual number of tourists. The settlement is surrounded on all sides by the mountains of the Caucasian ridge, but not high. The same relief is characteristic of the vicinity of Gelendzhik. The height of the mountains in the Gelendzhik region is greater.

Tuapse... It is the starting point of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus. The resort is surrounded by high mountains.

Sochi... The largest and most equipped resort Russian Federation... Known all over the world. The length of the Greater Sochi coastline is over 100 km.

Kerch... The most eastern point of the Crimean coast. The city is located at the junction of the Black and Sea of ​​Azov... In Kerch there is a ferry connecting the peninsula with mainland Russia.

(Stone coast of the Crimean peninsula)

Yalta... The world famous resort city with a mild climate. Located surrounded by the high Crimean mountains.

Sevastopol... A city with federal status. The Black Sea Fleet of the Russian Navy is based in its bays. The city does not have the status of a resort, its infrastructure is designed to serve the base of the Russian Black Sea Fleet.

Evpatoria... Most Big City from the western side of the Crimean coast. It is a health resort. There are many children's recreation centers and hospitals here. It is a recognized balneological resort.

Among the many seas of the world (there are more than 50 of them), a special group is made up of the so-called inland seas, to one degree or another surrounded by land. In this group, which in Europe alone includes the White, Baltic, Mediterranean and Marmara Seas, the Black Sea, in terms of the degree of isolation from the Ocean, is second only to the Azov Sea. Indeed, from Atlantic Ocean it is separated by the Bosphorus Strait, the Sea of ​​Marmara, the Dardanelles Strait, the Mediterranean Sea and the Strait of Gibraltar. An equally difficult waterway leads from the Black Sea to the Indian Ocean.

Dimensions: the surface area of ​​the Black Sea is 423,000 km2, and the volume of its waters is 547,000 km2. The greatest depth is 2,212 m. The length of the Black Sea coastline, according to the latest estimates, reaches 4,340 km.

The Bosphorus Strait, or the Bosphorus, is, in fact, a narrow channel 31 km long, 35 to 0.7 km wide and a minimum depth of 50 m. On the opposite side of the Black Sea there is Kerch Strait connecting it to the Sea of ​​Azov. The length of this strait is about 45 km, the width is from 3.5 to 42 km, and the minimum depth is only 10 m. maximum depth 13 m can be found in a very limited area in the very center of the reservoir.

The coastline of the sea forms several bays, peninsulas and headlands deeply protruding into the sea. The largest peninsula is Crimean, ending in the west with the Tarkhankut peninsula, and in the east with the Kerch peninsula. The Taman Peninsula is located on the eastern side of the Kerch Strait. Most prominent promontories: Kaliakra in Bulgaria, Midia in Romania, Big Fountain, Tarkhankut, Chersonesos, Methanom and Chauda in Ukraine, Utrish and Myskhako in Russia, Pitsunda in Georgia, Cham, Bafra, Boztepe, Ijeburun and Olujs in Turkey. Most large bays and bays: Burgas and Varna bays in Bulgaria, Mamaya bay in Romania, Odessa, Teidrovsky, Egorlytsky, Dzharylgachsky, Karkipitsky, Kalamitsky and Feodosia bays in Ukraine, Novorossiyskaya and Gelendzhik bays in Russia, Samsunsky and Sinopsky bays in Turkey.

The landscape diversity of the Black Sea shores is very great. There are high mountains and vast valleys, humid subtropical vegetation and arid regions, numerous estuaries, lagoons and river deltas.

The Black Sea is not rich in islands of continental origin. The largest of them, Zmeiny Island (in ancient times - Levka, Fidonisi), with an area of ​​1.5 km and a height of up to 40 m above sea level, is located 37 km east of the Kiliya arm of the Danube delta. Another island, Berezan,
with an area of ​​about 0.5 km "and a height of up to 20 m, located 1 km from the mouth of the Berezansky estuary. Another island - Kefksn - is located near the coast, 90 km east of the entrance to the Bosphorus. Several very small islands, in fact, rocks , are available in the Burgas Bay.

Sandy islands, washed up by currents, can reach significant sizes. These are: Tepdrovsky Island, or Tendrovskaya Spit, about 65 km long and about 30 km in area, Dzharylgach Island 42 km long, about 25 km in area, Dolgiy Island, with an area of ​​3.5 km, and some others, all in the northwestern part of the sea.

In any sea there are shelves - continuation of continents under water. These are zones with depths less than 200-150 m. In the Black Sea, due to the peculiarities of its waters, the shelves are the only sections of the bottom inhabited by rich life. The total area of ​​the Black Sea shelf is about 100,000 km "of which 64,000 km" are located in the northwestern part of the sea, opposite the shores of Ukraine, Romania and Bulgaria. The shelf width here reaches 150-180 km. In other areas adjacent to mountainous terrain, the shelf narrows to 10, and in some places - to 2 km.

central part sea-area with depths of 2000-2212 m, it is basically a flat bottom with insignificant depressions and elevations, covered with a layer of sediments with a thickness of 2 to 15 (!) kilometers. Some researchers consider the Black Sea deep-water basin to be the remnant of the Tethys Sea.


Compilers

P. A. Tilba, R. A. Mnatsekanov, V. A. Krutolapov.

Geographical coordinates

45 ° 17'34'''N, 36 ° 45'46''E

Height

0-5 m above sea level.

Square

38 400 hectares, including the water surface: 38 400 hectares.

a brief description of

Shallow sea bays, the shores of which are covered with steppe or wetland vegetation.

Wetland type

A, E, G, J; prevailing: J, A.

Ramsar criteria

4, 5.

Criterion 4: The site is one of the wintering centers for waterfowl, the importance of which increases in cold winters when the water area of ​​the estuaries of the Eastern Azov Sea freezes.

Criterion 5: During migrations, up to 1 million birds stop here (Wetlands of Russia, 2000). During mid-winter surveys carried out from the shore using telescopes, we counted about 20,000 within the site in 2003, about 10,000 in 2004, up to 8,000 in 2005, and about 49 in 2006. 500 pcs. waterfowl and near-water birds.

Location

Taman Peninsula, southwestern part of Krasnodar Territory, 30 km from Temryuk.

Physical and geographical characteristics

The area is a low-lying relief, which was formed as a result of a slow tectonic subsidence of the land, occurring at a rate of 2-5 mm per year (Kanonnikov, 1984). The surface of the coastal land is composed of deltaic and alluvial sediments, under which marine sediments of the Neogene and Paleogene lie. The bays are permanent bodies of water of natural origin. The salinity of the water in them reaches 11.3 ‰, decreasing near the coast to 2-3 ‰. The depth of the bays varies within 0.5-2.5 m. Typical formations of Taman and Dinskoy bays are lagoons - salt lakes Markitanskoye, Tuzla, etc. In the water area of ​​the bays there are shell-sand islands and spits of various configurations. The mud volcano Blevako is located on the coast of the Chushka Spit in the water area of ​​the Taman Bay.

The banks of the reservoirs are stacked unstable rocks and are subject to strong destructive activities of the sea. The soil cover is mainly composed of southern chernozems with a low humus content. The type of climate of the area of ​​the land belongs to the coastal steppe, moderate continental. The average January temperature is -0.8 °; July 23.6 ° С, precipitation during the year is 330-340 mm.

The significance of the site in the natural water cycle

The catchment basin of the site is a hilly plain formed by marine sediments. Uplands (reaching a maximum height of 164 m above sea level) are active or extinct mud volcanoes. The soil cover is mainly represented by chernozems, including their solonetzic and saline varieties; there are powerful chestnut soils. The main types of land use: field cultivation, vegetable growing, viticulture, animal husbandry. The climate is moderately continental.

Environmental parameters

On the shores of the bays, there are communities of psammophilic and hydrophilic vegetation. Coastal shallow waters, shell spits, islands are extremely important for the existence of waterfowl.

Valuable flora

One of the most widespread plant communities on the site is psammophilic vegetation. In floristic terms, this is the best preserved natural ecosystem both in the coastal part of the Taman and Dinskoy bays, and in Taman as a whole. Characterized by coastal sands sandy spikelet, common sea mustard, finger pork, pontic quatran, naked licorice, toadflax and others. Of the halophytes on the coastal sand-shell dunes, white melilot, tangled and creeping Sveda, saltwort and tragus, Kermek Meyer, etc. are widespread.

And on wet salt marshes - bluegrass-wheatgrass, sage-sedge and saltwort associations. The vegetation of reservoirs is formed from plant species immersed in water: hygrophytes, hydrophytes and hydatophytes. Phytocenoses are widespread and common scotchweed phytocenoses, often forming pure groupings over large areas. An equally common species is holly pondweed. Two types of uruti grow in the water bodies of the land: urut spikelet and whorled. In some coastal areas, typical flooded vegetation with the presence of common reeds, cattails, and sedges is found (Tilba and Nagalevsky, 1996).

Valuable fauna

The role of the area as a nesting place for birds. The area has a certain value as a place of reproduction of near-water bird species listed in the Red Data Books of the Russian Federation and the Krasnodar Territory: shepherd, oystercatcher (subspecies Haematopus ostralegus longipes), sea plover, and small tern. On the territory of the islands there are colonies of the great cormorant with a total number of 750 pairs, the river tern - 300 pairs, and the spotted tern - 300 pairs.

The role of the region as a place for bird migration. The area is located on an intensive migratory route for birds, which runs along the coasts of the Azov and Black Seas. Autumn concentrations of gull, black-headed gull, and bank heron were noted within Temryuk and Dinsky bays (Vinokurov, 1965). In the fall of 1995, 200 thousand wasps were recorded here. coots, 54 thousand - mallards, 200 thousand - red-headed duck, 1.5 thousand - mute swan (Vinogradov, 2000). The area is a place of stops and large concentrations of migratory waders: turukhtan, turners, herbalists, etc.

The role of the region as a wintering place for birds. The area is a traditional wintering ground, primarily for waterfowl. In the period from 1967 to 1972. there were from 6 thousand to 250 thousand wasps. Recently, there are up to 48.5 thousand waterfowl within the site.
(2006 data).

Swans. During wintering, mute swan and whooper swan are found. The latter species prevails in numbers in colder winters (in 2003, 1,500 individuals were counted).

Ducks. The most abundant wintering species is the crested duck (according to 2003 data - 11,500 individuals). In more warm winters the number of crested ducks is much lower. Of the other species of ducks, the most common are the mallard, the red-headed duck.

Other types of waterfowl. The most characteristic species include the great grebe, great cormorant, coot, and gull.

Sandpipers. On the territory of the site in winter, the following were recorded: herbalist, great snail, medium curlew, great curlew, snipe, dunlin; on the adjacent territory of the Kerch Strait coast of the Chushka spit, the oystercatcher was recorded during the winter (Mnatsekanov et al., 2004b; Dinkevich et al., 2005).

Role of the area as a habitat for rare and vulnerable bird species.

Black-throated loon. A common species during the migration period, in small numbers it is found in wintering.

White-tailed eagle. Regularly wintering species.

Demoiselle crane. Nesting species of adjacent territories.

Bustard. Nesting species of adjacent territories.

Bustard. Recorded in winter in the coastal part of the site.

Oystercatcher. Common breeding species; rare, irregular wintering species.

Great curlew. Not numerous, regularly encountered in winter.

Black-headed Gull. Occasionally celebrated in winter.

Role of the area as a habitat for marine mammals. Tamansky and partly Dinskaya bays are the habitat of the Black Sea bottlenose dolphin, a subspecies listed in the Red Data Books of the Russian Federation and Krasnodar Territory.

Social and cultural significance of the site

Within the boundaries of the site are located the most valuable historical and archaeological monuments associated with the Tmutarakan principality of the XI-XII centuries. In addition, on the territory of the site there is a house-museum of M. Yu. Lermontov.

Forms of land ownership

State.

Land use

Fishing is the main activity on the territory of the site; in the surrounding area - winemaking.

Factors negatively affecting the condition of the site

Expansion of areas for the construction of Port Kavkaz.

Environmental measures taken

Part of the site is part of the Zaporozhye-Taman zoological reserve. By the order of the Government of the Russian Federation of 12.04.1996, No. 591-r, the reserve (the name "Tamano-Zaporozhye reserve" is given in the order) is classified as a specially protected natural areas federal subordination. According to the regulations of the reserve, its area is 30,000 hectares.

Proposed environmental measures

Solving the issue of the status of the reserve. Correction of the Regulations on the reserve, taking into account the importance of the territory as a place of mass wintering of semi-aquatic birds, including rare species, as well as a nesting place for rare species of birds. Giving the status of a Ramsar site to the entire water area of ​​the Taman and Dinskoy bays.

Scientific research

Scientific research within the site was and is being carried out in the course of studying the biota of the Taman Peninsula as a whole. In addition, in recent years, special mid-winter counts of waterfowl have been carried out here as part of the Wetlands International project along the Central Asian Flyway, funded by the Ministry of Agriculture, Nature and Food of the Netherlands.

Environmental education

Currently not available. There are good opportunities for organizing observations of migratory and wintering birds.

Recreation and tourism

The site is intensively used for tourist purposes, mainly in the historical and cultural sense. Recreational loads on plant and animal habitats are low.

Jurisdiction

Administration of the Temryuk district of the Krasnodar Territory.

Site management authority

Tamano-Zaporizhzhya reserve is under the departmental subordination of the Office Federal Service on veterinary and phytosanitary supervision on Krasnodar Territory and the Republic of Adygea. the straits, the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles, located in the Marmara region of northwestern Turkey. The area of ​​the Straits often includes the Sea of ​​Marmara located between them and its surroundings.

Description

Black Sea straits consistently connect the Black Sea with the Marmara, and the Marmara - with the Aegean, which is part of the Mediterranean. They also separate Europe (Thrace) from Asia Minor (Anatolia). Straits provide access to Mediterranean Sea and the world's oceans of a large part of Russia, Ukraine, Transcaucasia and the countries of southeastern Europe. In addition to agricultural and industrial goods, oil from Russia and the rest of the Caspian countries accounts for a significant share of exports through the Straits.

Bosphorus

The shores of the strait are connected by two bridges: the Bosphorus Bridge with a length of 1074 meters (completed in 1973) and the Sultan Mehmed Fatih Bridge with a length of 1090 meters (built in 1988), 5 km north of the first bridge. A third road bridge is planned, but the construction site is kept secret by the Turkish government to avoid rising land prices. In 2013, the Marmaray railway tunnel was opened, which united the transport systems of Istanbul, located in the European and Asian parts cities.

Dardanelles

At sunset times Ottoman Empire at the London conference in 1841, it was decided to close the Straits for the passage of anyone's warships in peacetime. Under a secret agreement in 1915, the straits were transferred to the Russian Empire. From the point of view of modern international law, the area of ​​the Straits is an "open sea" and since 1936 it has been governed in accordance with the provisions of the Montreux Convention on the Status of the Straits, while maintaining the sovereignty of the Turkish Republic over the latter.

see also

  • Dardanelles operation ()
  • Peace Treaty of Sevres ()
  • Unkar-Iskelesi treaty ()

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Notes (edit)

Literature

  • Black Sea straits- an article from the Great Soviet Encyclopedia.
  • in the Geographical Encyclopedia.
  • in the Encyclopedic Dictionary of Economics and Law.
  • Evmenenko, S. Black Sea Straits: Myths and Reality. - seanews.ru, July 13, 2006.
  • Shemyakin, A. Black Sea Straits: History and Contemporary Problems. // Transport law. - 2003, No. 4.
  • Rozakis, Christos L.... - Martinus Nijhoff Publishers, 1987.
  • Luneva Yu.V.... - M .: Quadriga, 2010 .-- 256 p.

Links

  • Lewis, A.... - GeoJournal, Vol. 26, # 4. - April 1992 .-- S. 503-509. (English) ISSN 03432521
  • Shirokorad A. B. article from "Nezavisimaya Gazeta" dated 12.11.2010

An excerpt characterizing the Black Sea straits

“I'm not joking,” Bilibin continued, “there is nothing more just and sadder. These gentlemen come to the bridge alone and raise their white kerchiefs; assure that there is a truce, and that they, the marshals, are going to negotiate with Prince Auersperg. The officer on duty lets them into the tete de pont. [bridge fortification.] They tell him a thousand Gascon nonsense: they say that the war is over, that Emperor Franz has made an appointment with Bonaparte, that they want to see Prince Auersperg, and a thousand Gasconades, and so on. Officer sends for Auersperg; These gentlemen embrace the officers, joke, sit down on the cannons, while the French battalion, unnoticed, enters the bridge, throws sacks of flammable substances into the water and approaches the tete de pont. Finally, the Lieutenant General himself, our dear Prince Auersperg von Mautern, appears. “Dear enemy! The color of the Austrian army, the hero of the Turkish wars! The enmity is over, we can shake hands with each other ... Emperor Napoleon is burning with the desire to recognize Prince Auersperg. " In a word, these gentlemen, not for nothing the Gascons, so bombard Auersperg with beautiful words, he is so seduced by his so quickly established intimacy with the French marshals, so blinded by the appearance of Murat's mantle and ostrich feathers, qu "il n" y voit que du feu, et oubl celui qu "il devait faire faire sur l" ennemi. [That he sees only their fire and forgets about his own, which he was obliged to open against the enemy.] (Despite the liveliness of his speech, Bilibin did not forget to pause after this mot to give time to evaluate him.) The French battalion rushes into tete de pont, the cannons are nailed down, and the bridge is taken. No, but what is best, - he continued, calming down in his excitement by the charm of his own story, - is that the sergeant, assigned to the gun, at the signal of which he was supposed to light mines and blow up the bridge, this sergeant, seeing that the French troops running to the bridge, he was about to shoot, but Lann pulled his hand away. The sergeant, who, apparently, was smarter than his general, approaches Auersperg and says: "Prince, they are deceiving you, here are the French!" Murat sees that the case is lost if the sergeant is allowed to speak. He is surprised (a real Gascon) turns to Auersperg: "I do not recognize the Austrian discipline so vaunted in the world," he says, "and you allow the lower rank to talk to you like that!" C "est genial. Le prince d" Auersperg se pique d "honneur et fait mettre le sergent aux arrets. Non, mais avouez que c" est charmant toute cette histoire du pont de Thabor. Ce n "est ni betise, ni lachete ... [This is brilliant. Prince Auersperg is insulted and orders the arrest of the sergeant. No, admit it is lovely, this whole story with the bridge. This is not just stupidity, not like meanness ...]
- With "est trahison peut etre, [Perhaps treason,]" said Prince Andrew, vividly imagining gray greatcoats, wounds, gunpowder smoke, the sounds of firing and the glory that awaits him.
- Non plus. Cela met la cour dans de trop mauvais draps, Bilibin continued. - Ce n "est ni trahison, ni lachete, ni betise; c" est comme a Ulm ... - He seemed to ponder, looking for the expression: - c "est ... c" est du Mack. Nous sommes mackes, [Also not. This puts the yard in the most ridiculous position; it is neither treason, nor meanness, nor stupidity; it's like under Ulm, it's… it's Makovshchina. We were soaked. ] - he concluded, feeling that he had said un mot, and a fresh mot, such a mot that would be repeated.
The folds on his forehead that had been collected until then quickly dissolved as a sign of pleasure, and he, with a slight smile, began to examine his nails.
- Where are you going? He said suddenly, addressing Prince Andrey, who got up and went to his room.
- I'm on my way.
- Where?
- To Army.
- Yes, you wanted to stay two more days?
- And now I'm going now.
And Prince Andrey, having made the order to leave, went to his room.
“You know what, my dear,” said Bilibin, entering his room. - I thought about you. Why are you going?
And to prove the irrefutability of this argument, the folds all fled from the face.
Prince Andrew looked inquiringly at his interlocutor and said nothing.
- Why are you going? I know you think it is your duty to ride into the army now that the army is in danger. I understand that, mon cher, c "est de l" heroisme. [my dear, this is heroism.]
“Not at all,” said Prince Andrew.
- But you un philoSophiee, [the philosopher], be him completely, look at things from the other side, and you will see that your duty, on the contrary, is to take care of yourself. Leave it to others who are no longer good for anything ... You were not commanded to come back, and from here you were not released; therefore, you can stay and go with us wherever our unhappy fate takes us. They say they are going to Olmutz. And Olmutz is a very nice city. And we will safely ride together in my carriage.
“Stop joking, Bilibin,” said Bolkonsky.
“I’m telling you sincerely and in a friendly way. Judge. Where and why are you going now that you can stay here? One of two things awaits you (he gathered the skin over his left temple): either you will not reach the army and peace will be concluded, or defeat and disgrace with the entire Kutuzov army.
And Bilibin loosened his skin, feeling that his dilemma was irrefutable.
“I cannot judge that,” said Prince Andrey coldly, but thought: “I am going to save the army”.
“Mon cher, vous etes un heros, [My dear, you are a hero,]” said Bilibin.

On the same night, bowing to the Minister of War, Bolkonsky went to the army, not knowing where he would find it, and fearing that he would be intercepted by the French on the way to Krems.
In Brunn, the entire court population was packed, and weights were already sent to Olmütz. Near Etzelsdorf, Prince Andrey drove onto the road along which the Russian army was moving with the greatest haste and in the greatest disorder. The road was so crowded with carts that it was impossible to ride in a carriage. Taking a horse and a Cossack from the Cossack commander, Prince Andrey, hungry and tired, overtaking the carts, went to find the commander-in-chief and his cart. The most ominous rumors about the position of the army reached him by road, and the sight of the disorganized running army confirmed these rumors.
"Cette armee russe que l" or de l "Angleterre a transportee, des extremites de l" univers, nous allons lui faire eprouver le meme sort (le sort de l "armee d" Ulm) ", [" This Russian army, which English gold brought here from the end of the world, will experience the same fate (the fate of the Ulm army).] He recalled the words of Bonaparte's order to his army before the start of the campaign, and these words equally aroused in him surprise at the genius hero, a feeling of offended pride and the hope of glory. "And if there is nothing left but to die? He thought. Well, if it is necessary! I will do it no worse than others."
Prince Andrew looked with contempt at these endless, interfering teams, carts, parks, artillery and again carts, carts and carts of all kinds, overtaking one another and in three, in four rows dammed the muddy road. From all sides, back and forth, as long as the ear could be heard, the sounds of wheels, the clattering of bodies, carts and gun carriages, horse trampling, whip blows, prodding cries, cursing soldiers, orderlies and officers were heard. Along the edges of the road, there were incessantly skinned and unkempt horses that had fallen, now broken carts with lonely soldiers waiting for something, sometimes soldiers who had separated from their teams, who in droves went to neighboring villages or dragged chickens, rams, hay or hay from the villages. bags filled with something.
On the ascents and descents, the crowds grew thicker, and there was a continuous groan of screams. The soldiers, knee-deep in the mud, grabbed guns and wagons in their arms; whips thrashed, hooves slipped, strings burst and shrieks tore from their breasts. The officers who were in charge of the movement, now forward, then backward, passed between the carts. Their voices were faintly audible in the midst of the general roar, and it was evident from their faces that they were desperate to be able to stop this disorder. "Voila le cher ['Here is a dear] Orthodox army," thought Bolkonsky, recalling Bilibin's words.

Black Sea coastline

The Black Sea is located in the northern temperate zone of the Earth, stretching from north to south between points with coordinates 46 °, 32 ′ and 40 ° 55 ′ north latitude.

But if we bear in mind the climatic features, then the coastline of the Black Sea belongs to two zones. North and west coast correspond to the temperate zone, and the southern coast of Crimea, the coast of the Caucasus and Turkey - to the subtropical belt, and the southern part of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus and the Colchis lowland belong to the humid subtropics with an annual rainfall of 1400-2500 millimeters. One of the distinctive features of the subtropics is mild winters, allowing year-round vegetation of plants.

The length of the Black Sea coastline is about 4,790 kilometers. This is not a constant, fixed value. Not only the length, but the whole appearance of the shores is constantly changing under the influence of both natural forces and the will of man. Among natural factors affecting the seashore, the main role belongs to waves and currents. Inaccessible coastal cliffs, picturesque bays, islets, “velvet” smooth beaches, covered with sand and silt of the harbor, washed-out road embankments, villages and resorts destroyed by landslides - all this is the result of the activity of the surf and currents.

So writes about the "life" of sea coasts in the annotation to his book "The Shores of the Black and Azov Seas", a prominent specialist in this field of marine science, Professor V.P. Zenkovich. Thanks to the works of V.P. Zenkovich, his colleagues and colleagues, the Black Sea coast is now the most studied. This made it possible to successfully carry out large-scale works on their strengthening and improvement in a number of places. Description of the Black Sea shores by V.P. Zenkovich is not only a valuable source of firsthand scientific information, but also a poetic story about that very specific zone where the sea meets land.

So, all the way from the Danube to Ochakov stretch the famous "velvet sands", sandy strips sea ​​beaches as well as numerous estuaries. Clay cliffs are not uncommon here. They are constantly destroyed by the sea surf, and from time to time, landslides of a grand scale occur. Now landslide phenomena, thanks to the development of the science of the seashore, have been tamed by a system of powerful coastal protection structures.

From Ochakov to the Western Crimea, the shores are also characterized by their sandy beaches and low cliffs. Between the Dnieper-Bug estuary and the Karkinitsky bay there are extensive sand spits(Kinburnskaya, Tendrovskaya) and islands (Dolgiy, Krugly, Dzharylgach). it for the most part sparsely populated or completely uninhabited places, the kingdom of birds, all kinds of small animals, deer, and even wild horses on Tendra. Here is the Black Sea state reserve Academy of Sciences of the Ukrainian SSR, which is doing a lot of work on the study of seagulls and others, birds, their role in the life of the sea and land. Nearby are the large bays of the Black Sea: Yagorlytsky, Tendrovsky, Dzharylgachsky, Karkinitsky, which, by their natural features, are shallow water, protection from waves, remoteness from settlements, from powerful sources of pollution, high biological productivity and others - are considered the most promising places for the development of underwater farms in the Black Sea.

The southern coast of Crimea is mountainous. The Crimean mountains are not particularly high, but their summit plateaus - yayly - lie very close to the sea and fall in steep cliffs several hundred meters high. Sheltering the coasts from northern winds, they create here climatic conditions subtropics. Beaches South Shore The Crimea is not sandy, but pebble and is much narrower than on the northwestern coast of the Black Sea. The underwater landscape of the southern coast of Crimea is very beautiful: clear water, many rocks (some of them rise above the sea surface) and blocks overgrown with algae, mussels and other organisms. The species diversity of fauna and flora makes these places convenient for acquaintance with the inhabitants of the sea, especially for scuba divers.

The southern coast of the Kerch Peninsula, as well as the southern coast of Taman, is distinguished by wide sandy beaches and shallow waters of the coastal strip of the sea, somewhat reminiscent of the northwestern coast. Salty seaside lakes are found here again. On Kerch Peninsula- these are Uzunlarskoye, Koyashskoye and Tobechikskoye lakes, on Tamanskoye - the estuaries of Tsokur, Kiziltashsky, Bugazsky and Vityazevsky. And the water is more turbid than that of the southern coast of Crimea, and is desalinated by the runoff of the Sea of ​​Azov through the Kerch Strait. From Anapa to the southeast to Batumi, the Caucasian coast stretches with a predominance of pebble beaches. The coastal mountains are covered with dense forest, numerous evergreen trees and shrubs, citrus fruits. Great depths come close to the shore. Mountain rivers bring little turbidity, and the sea water is transparent, like on the southern coast of Crimea.

Turkey's Black Sea coast is mountainous, with narrow, mostly pebble beaches and rapidly increasing depths.

The shores of Romania and Bulgaria resemble the northwestern ones and are also famous for their wide sandy beaches. As in the Odessa region, clay cliffs prevail here, there are salt lakes and estuaries, and the sea is freshened by the Danube runoff.

Acquaintance with the wildlife of the Black Sea coast is greatly facilitated by visiting local museums of local lore, available in all cities, as well as botanical gardens and marine aquariums.

Among the botanical attractions on the Black Sea coast, the botanical garden of Odessa State University, founded in 1867, the Nikitsky Botanical Garden in Crimea, created in 1812, the Arboretum in Sochi, founded at the end of the last century, the tisosamshitovy grove, located two kilometers from the sea, should be mentioned. the Khosta river, - the remains of the ancient relict flora, the subtropical park in Gagra, the Pitsunda relict long-coniferous pine reserve at Cape Pitsunda, the Sukhum Botanical Garden, and finally the Batumi Botanical Garden, founded in 1912, one of the largest and most famous in our country.

Marine aquariums are less ancient and famous than botanical gardens... They are very helpful in getting to know the inhabitants of the Black Sea, their appearance and habits. In our country, marine aquariums have been created in Sevastopol at the Institute of Biology of the Southern Seas, in Kerch at the Azov-Black Sea Scientific Research Institute of Marine Fisheries and Oceanography, in Sochi in the Arboretum and in Batumi at the Georgian branch of the All-Union Institute of Marine Fisheries and Oceanography. The Black Sea fauna is most fully represented in the Sevastopol Aquarium, opened back in 1897 at the biological station and subsequently modernized several times. Today it is a very popular institution that showcases the inhabitants of the Black and other seas. There is a central round pool with a diameter of 9.2 and a depth of 1.5 meters, as well as 12 wall aquariums with a volume of up to 7 cubic meters. At the same time, several dozen species of Black Sea fish, crabs, mollusks and other animals can be observed in the aquarium.

The first scientific demonstration dolphinarium in our country was recently opened in Batumi, where there is an opportunity to get acquainted with the Black Sea dolphins and the work that scientists and trainers carry out with them.

There are several nature reserves on the Black Sea coast. The largest of them is the Black Sea State Reserve of the Academy of Sciences of the Ukrainian SSR with an area of ​​more than 60 thousand hectares, founded in 1927. It is located between the Dnieper-Bug estuary and the Karkinitsky bay on the sands of the Kinburn and Tendrovsky spits, the islands of Krugly, Dolgiy, Orlov, Babin and others. The area occupied by the reserve is 12 606 hectares. The rest of the area is shallow sea water.

The biggest attraction of the Black Sea Nature Reserve is a large colony of black-headed or Mediterranean gulls, numbering up to 200,000 pairs. This beautiful white bird with a brilliant black head (the so-called "mating outfit", in winter the seagull's head is white), during the nesting period is found in many places - in Greece, Asia Minor, Romania and even in Mongolia, but its largest colony is in the Black Sea reserve. The black-headed gull deserves protection not only as one of the adornments of the sea coast, where there are fewer and fewer deserted places near the sea, but also as a human assistant in the fight against agricultural pests. The fact is that, in addition to small fish and marine invertebrates, this gull feeds on insects that it hunts in the steppe. Scientists have calculated that over the summer, black-headed gulls from the Black Sea Reserve, together with their chicks, eat over 5 thousand tons of insects, thereby preventing annual losses agriculture in the amount of up to 2 million rubles. An excellent example of a combination of nature conservation and a biological method of pest control that is safe for humans!

Another protected place on the Black Sea coast is located around Cape Kaliakra in Bulgaria. On the secluded coastal cliffs of this steep cape, the only species of seal in the Black Sea - the monk seal - breeds. It is listed in the International "Red Book" of rare and endangered species. According to Bulgarian scientists, only a few pairs of seals remain there today, which are under the strict protection of the state.

Yes, it is more and more difficult now for birds and animals to find secluded places on the shores of the Black Sea. People are so fond of them that sometimes it seems: a little more time will pass - and all coastal settlements will merge into a continuous ring of cities and resorts. In any case, they talk about the resort development of the entire coastline back in this century. Of course, the sea should help people in rest and treatment, this is indisputable. But what are the reasonable limits of this "human load" per unit of coastline has not yet been calculated. This is one of the immediate and important tasks of science. In the meantime, the ranks of all kinds of recreation centers, camps, campgrounds, medical institutions, sports centers, beaches, boat docks and other forms of "sea use" are growing without hindrance, why not introduce such a term, by analogy with "nature management"? Our relations with the sea must be built in such a way as to ensure a gentle regime for it. Indeed (in addition to these seasonal recreational and medical facilities) around the Black Sea there are about forty settlements of the rank of ports with a population of about 4 million people and with a certain negative impact on the marine environment. Thus, according to statistics, there is about 1 meter of coastline for one permanent inhabitant of the Black Sea coast. But in the summer, the population at least doubles, and then the share of the coastline per person is reduced to half a meter. And if we take into account that “sea use” is not evenly distributed along the coast, then in settlements, resorts and other places, the “personal” section of the coast is sometimes reduced to a few centimeters. This is the tense ecological situation, requiring from a person special thrift and attentiveness to the natural environment around him, for the sake of meeting with which he sometimes overcomes thousands of kilometers and bears so many bright plans during the year. And since the concept of "nature protection" implies, first of all, the protection of its living inhabitants, let's move on to getting to know them.

Yu.P. Zaitsev

Photo beautiful places Crimea