The trek around annapurna is better in autumn or spring. Annapurna area map (track around Annapurna and base camp). A selection of maps for trek planning in the Annapurna area

Kathmandu- Besisahar - Syange - Dharapani - Chame springs - Lower Pisang - Manang -Tilicho base camp — radial on about. Tilicho (4949m) — Yak Kharka - Torong Phedi -Thorong La Pass (5416m 🔥) - Muktinath - Jomsom - Tatopani - Gorepani -dawn on Poon Hill e - Gandruk - Jinu Danda - Pokhara - boat trip on the lakePhewa - Kathmandu Valley

Day 1. Meeting of the group

This day is dedicated to the gathering of participants in the heart of Nepal. Out of habit, she it seems very noisy, the streets are in real chaos and it is difficult to find it on your own. But don't worry -we will arrange a meeting of our tourists at the airport. You only need to apply for a visa upon arrival (10-15 minutes) and pick up your luggage, and then our guide or Nepalese representative will take you to the meeting point. Our hotel is located in the most tourist area of ​​the city - Thamele, it is there that our representatives will bring you and the instructor of the tourist club will meet you.

* Do you want to fly alone? No problem! We have a lot of tourists from big cities (Moscow, St. Petersburg, Kiev, Minsk), with whom you can unite - it's more fun together :). Just contact the manager about this after submitting the application.

Day 2. Moving to Besisahar

In the morning, after a calm breakfast, a transfer picks us up and takes us to the mountains. There will be no trekking today, but you will have time to get tired - road will take at least 8 hours. She winds along the dusty mountain serpentine, often in one lane, so it will not be possible to get to the protected Himalayas faster. Let's see how ordinary Nepalese live - their life often shocks unprepared tourists. Upon arrival, we check into the hotel and have a rest. *Some people prefer to leave Besisahara right away, but we don't - it's too exhausting. 8 hours on these "trails" is more than enough for one trip.

🏠 Overnight stayon the 110 0m above sea level. 🚙 Moving 180 km.

Day 3. Nadi Khola - Syange

Rested and fresh, we hop on a transfer that will take us to the small authentic village of Nadi Bazar. Such an attraction is even slightly extreme: on the one hand there is a vertical slope, on the other - a cliff))) in a word, you can not drink coffee for breakfast. In Nadi we give our things to the porters, throw our backpacks with the essentials on our shoulders and leave for the heart of the sacred Himalayas. While we are moving at very "low" heights - 1300-1400 m. But this section of the track simply cannot be missed - the real jungle is raging around! We walk along the picturesque Marsyandzhi River through exotic forests, rice terraces and several small villages that are literally buried in flowering gardens and flower beds.

Moving on to branded suspension bridgesAnnapurna rings, admiring waterfalls, canyon cliffs and Buddhist stupas with prayer flags. We arrive in Xiang (~ 1450 m), from where you can already see what we have gathered on such a long journey for: the peaks Himalchuli (7893 m) and Peak 29. We will spend the night in a comfortable mountain lodge.

👣 Trackking13 km. 🏠 1450m n . lvl. m.

Day 4. Dharapani

Gradually getting used to the rhythm of the hike, we go through dense forests to the village of Dharapani. N Steep descents and ascents will begin, for which we are ready thanks to yesterday's warm-up :). The steep gorge is dotted with many unusually beautiful and powerful waterfalls... All this abundance of water forms moist, almost tropical climate, and the nature of the area i bright and varied. From Dharapani, by the way, begins the track around Manaslu - "Mountains of Spirits".

👣17 km. 🏠 1860 m above sea level lvl. m.

Day 5. Springs of Chame

The route takes us higher and higher into the mountains, and we will finally see the first eight-thousander - Manaslu (8163 m)! Shining with an ice cap, over the path gracefully risesLamjung (6983 m) -one of the smallest peaks of Annapurna... The peaks of the Himalayas stagger the imagination with their unrealistic proportions. Our goal is the village Chame, which must be entered through the gates-stupa, while spinning the prayer drums ... and in front of the majestic massif of Annapurna stands an impregnable wall.

Relax in style in the evening: in Cham there are hot sources. We will not deny ourselves the pleasure of swimming after the day's march.

👣 15 km, 900 m 🏠 2760 m asl lvl. m.

Day 6. Lower Pisang

Today we are climbing to a decent height and may feel a slight discomfort. Our active acclimatization in the Himalayas begins. Oh, we will be in Nizhniy Pisang, we will have lunch, Let's drink masala-chai and go to the radial to the Upper Pisang (3300 m above sea level) to ensure that we get used to the thin air. Well, along the way, we will see a colorful Buddhist monastery,where monks in traditional vestments recite mantras and bring gifts to the spirits of their ancestors. How exciting it is to be transported to a new culture so different from ours! After the puja(i.e. services) we go down to dinner and have a rest.

👣 15 km, ~ 700 m, ↓ 250 m. 🏠 at 3200 m.

Day 7. Manang - radial to lake Gangapurna

We wake up early to have time to enjoy one of the best views on the route before lunch - while the sky is clear. We go on mountain trail along authentic settlements, we pass a large wall of mani (this is the name of ritual stones decorated with carvings and paintings). Then the ascent begins tobreathtakingly beautiful observation deck... Here for the first time we will feel the power of the Sacred Mountains of the Celestial Empire, and the signs of oxygen starvation)))

Nearby there is an excellent shop with drinks and local delicacies - we will rest and move to Manang. On the way, we will meet trekkers from different parts of the world, so we will definitely find many new friends. In Manang, we will throw things in the loggia and let's go light to the lake Gangapurna, which is filled with water from the glacier of the same name... Trekking around Annapurna It is notable for the fact that it practically does not require special acclimatization exits - it has already been laid so that it provides for a smooth and correct acclimatization. The main thing is not to miss walks to the sights, and everything will be fine;).

👣 Walking 15 km, 700 m, ↓ 350 m. 🏠 Overnight at 3540 metersabove sea level

Day 8. Base Camp Tilicho

Although around there is already a real kingdom of snow-capped peaks, but we continue to move up. The landscape we'll walk through todayrather resembles the Martian wastelands. Black powder, sharp harsh rocks, between which suspended bridges are stretched ... and VIEWS - on the main massif itself dangerous peak planets! Height is no longer just felt, it is dizzy with beauty that can only be foundwhere the border goes between life and eternal ice frozen in time.

We warn you that the transition is difficult, but necessary th for the passage of the Torong La Pass pass. We will stop for the night at the Tilicho base camp.

👣 14 km. 🏠 Overnight at 4150 m n. lvl. m.

Day 9. Radial to Lake Tilicho

We rise to Lake Tilicho at 4990 meters. We go radially - without things, taking only a snack, a thermos with tea and a puff or windbreaker, depending on the forecast.

The dizzying height matches the dizzying views around. Looking at this greatness, you understand your tinyness in this mighty world. The lake is remembered not only for the azure color of the water, which reflects the powerful peaks of the Annapurna massif, but also for its size. It is 4 km long! On a calm surface, ice floes are slowly floating - fragments of the Tilicho glacier. After taking the cherished pictures, we return to the Base Camp. Losing altitude, we are going through very good acclimatization.

👣 11 km; ~ 6 h

Day 10. Yak Kharka

Our trekking around Annapurna continues further into the Himalayas. The trail winds through thickets of scarlet barberry bushes and high bridges hung with prayer flags. Numerous herds of wild sheep and yaks graze on the slopes. Rare villages resemble medieval ones, the benefits of civilization have not yet reached these places. O we are going to sleep in Yak Khark, and in the evening we will enjoy the sunset over the white peaks of the Himalayas.

👣 16 km , 100 m, ↓ 430 m.

Day 11. Thorong Phedi /Upper Camp

We are gradually approaching the highest trekking point around Annapurna. The transition to Torong Phedi is smooth and small, so depending on the speed of the group, we will either stay here for the night, or we'll have lunch, rest and move on - to the upper camp at 4925 m. lvl. m.

The ascent to the high camp is steep, with a tiring climb. We are not in a hurry, we are moving at our own pace. Altitude sickness and fatigue are felt at almost 5,000 meters. We are already higher than Mont Blanc! Not only for the sake of species, man climbs the mountains. It is equally important to understand that the boundaries of the possible are a conditional thing. And often we ourselves do not know what we are capable of :)

We'll sit in the lodge and radially climb to the local viewpoint to reduce the symptoms of the miner. After sunset it gets colder, at night it can be -10 ° C (fortunately, there are spare blankets in the camp). Let's have dinner and try to sleep - n It's good to have a rest, because you will have to get up very early.

👣 9 km, ~ 90 0 m.

Day 12. Thorong La Pass

The climax of trekking around Annapurna has arrived -we climb Torong La (5416 m). It's not only myself and I high point Annapurna rings, but alsothe tallest pedestrian th pass in the world! In the afternoon, the weather spoils here, so we need to wake up and get out at 4 in the morning to crosshisbefore the hurricane wind appears.Torong La is located between two six-thousanders - Kanung and Yakawa Kang. Through it passes the way from Manang to the Kingdom of Lo - the recently forbidden Mustang. But the main advantage of this extraordinary place is the panorama of the Himalayas, of course! Imagine HOW the steepest mountains of the planet look from such a height 💙.We will meet the dawn on the way. Only 550m of the set - and the goal is achieved!We are now even higher than Annapurna Base Camp.We will take a picture with a commemorative plaque entwined with a bunch of prayer flags - it greets the travelers who climbed Torong La.

After enjoying the beautiful views, we descend to the village of Muktinath (3760 m). Nature is changing dramatically - we are approaching the lifeless, harsh, rocky Tibetan plateau, on which the Mustang is located. Here the canyons are deeper, the glaciers are closer, and the eight-thousanders are constantly visible. After resting and having a snack in the lodge, those who wish can walk to the monastery with 108 sacred springs and admire the statue of the Black Buddha.

👣 14 km, ↓ 1600 m. 🏠 3760 m n. lvl. m.

Day 13. Jomsom - Tatopani

Early in the morning we move to the village of Tatopani. The road passes through the valley of the largest river in Nepal -Kali Gandaki, in places almost along the riverbed. Kali Gandaki is famous for cutting the Great Himalayan Ridge between two highest peaks the world - Annapurna and Daulagiri, the distance between which is only 35 km. The river itself flows between these mountains at an altitude of 2540 m above sea level. lvl. m, so the Kaligandak Gorge is considered the deepest in the world... We will drive through the historical areas of Mustang with the administrative center of Jomsom. Many apples are grown here. The best grade, by the way, according to rumors, has been supplied to the court of the Queen of Great Britain for almost a century. After the trip, it will be very pleasant to take a break from the harsh conditions of the highlands, and in the evening relax in the pools filled with thermal springs. Life is good ...)))

🚙 70 km. 🏠 1200 m above sea level lvl. m.

Day 14. Gorepani

We go further along the track and keep our way to the village of Gorepani, admiring the views of Dhaulagiri and other powerful ridges of the heavenly mountains. The trail here is paved with stone and it is very pleasant to move along it. Forests and terraces are green again around. This is why our route is so good - the nature around is constantly changing! The day before yesterday we walked on the glacier, yesterday we admired the harsh wastelands, and today we were happily greeted by thickets wondrous vegetation :).It's impossible to get bored at the Annapurna Ring. Besides our brain has managed to completely disconnect from everyday problems and worries, and that's why we came here. In Gorepani, right from the terrace of the lodge, an unforgettable Himalayan light show awaits us:sunset over the magnificent Machapuchare!

👣 15 km, climb 600 m. 🏠 2800 m. lvl. m.

Day 15. Climbing Poon Hill

Waking up early, we go light to the radial to the nearby hill - Poon Hill (3200 m)... The best view of a whole series of peaks above the 8 thousand mark opens from here. This is exactly the panorama that you expect in the Himalayas: the most beautiful ridge of Nepal right in front of you, painted with bright dawn colors.

We meet the sun, take pictures and return to the lodge. After rest, we continue our trek around Annapurna until a forest trail leads us to the beautiful and well-groomed by Nepalese standards town of Gandruk (2050 m). It is inhabited by hardworking gurungs - one of the many local peoples. Gandruk is located in a valley with excellent views of Annapurna and sacred mountain Machapuchare, she is Fishtail or Fishtail. The sunset will be unforgettable again;).

👣 16 km, 300 m, ↓ 1100 m.

Day 16. Jinu Danda Hot Springs

Well, now came the last serious day of trekking around Annapurna, although the snow caps of the mountains are still visible from the trail and somehow I can't believe that soon I will go home)) Descended and went to Gina Danda, check into a hotel and we run relax in thermal springs... How much we have time to see live and experience together!

👣 140 m, ↓ 460 m. 🏠 on the 1720 m n. lvl. m.

Day 17. Transfer to Pokhara. Lake Phewa

After breakfast, we go through the jungle along the bed of the Modi-Khola river to the village of Sivai. Here passes the border of the nat. park, and we board the transfer toPokhara. By tradition, we live in a hotel with such a stunning view that we don't even want to go anywhere ... but we must) After settling, we go boating / catamarans on Lake Feva, after all, it is considered one of the wonders of Nepal and is simply a must-see! If there is time, we will visit the Shiva Cave and the Peace Stupa above Pokhara. Well, in the evening we will celebrate successful completion of the hike.

👣 9 km. 🚙 50 km.

Day 18. Kathmandu

It will take almost 8 hours road to Kathmandu. We will have a little rest, and the rest of the time we will devote to sightseeing. You can go to the Bodnath stupa, royal palace or Swayambunathu - the famous temple of the monkeys. If we have time, we will go to Patan -an ancient city near the capital. There are so many historical and religious monuments that it was included in the UNESCO list of human heritage. Well, in the evening we will have supper, because tomorrow we will have to say goodbye.

Day 19. Himalayas, see you!

You can spend the morning usefully - we will go through the local equipment shops and stock up on pleasant things for the next hikes. Do not forget about souvenirs for family and friends - there are a lot of them in Thamel. Then we fly back to our homeland.

Note: Above the route of the hike there are tabs "Information" and "Equipment", where you will find information on additional costs, required documents and a list of equipment for this trek. Be sure to check it out!

Traveler Tanya Handel from Brest, who recently spent 150 days with a budget of $ 1 per day, talks about how to organize self-guided trekking in one of the most picturesque and dangerous mountains- the Nepalese massif of Annapurna. Buddhist temples, apple villages, bridges, mountain rivers and constant overcoming of oneself. The good news: you don't need to carry a tent and food - there are villages with guesthouses along the entire route. How to spend time in Kathmandu and relax after conquering heights - first-hand advice.

Before the track. Kathmandu

Nepal is a tiny country sandwiched between China and India. People come here for Buddhist shrines, conquering peaks (for example, you can swing up Everest) and amazing nature.

The only international airport in the country is located in the capital - Kathmandu. This city is worth spending at least three days in it - and it is advisable to do this before trekking around Annapurna. After hiking in the mountains, this city will seem to you too vain and dusty - a real embodiment of chaos. It is better to enjoy it before the track, while your soul has not yet gone deep into the jungle of nirvana. Kathmandu is a whole world, but you can start your acquaintance like this.

Stupa Bodnath... The stupa, built in the 5th century, is a Mecca for Buddhists from all over the world. It is customary to bypass the stupa clockwise and turn special drums with the right hand, which are inscribed with prayers in Sanskrit. It is believed that when the drum spins, prayers go straight to heaven.

You go around the stupa for the first time - you pray for everyone living on Earth, the second - for all animals, and only the third - for yourself. One circle is about 800 meters. Not a bad way to beg the local gods for a successful hike and practice walking at the same time. Lively sellers will stick all sorts of trinkets in your hands. Around the next corner, you can buy the same, but half the price.

Pashupatinath complex... It is the center of Nepalese Hinduism, founded in the 13th century. In fact, a walk around this place will not be joyful and is generally not recommended for the faint of heart. But if you do make up your mind, your world will not be the same. People are being burned here. Right in front of your eyes. You stand across a small, thin river and watch how a person is first covered with wood, then watered with something and set on fire. After a while, the ashes and what is left are thrown into the river and the next one is put. Below the cows are trying to find something edible, and a dashing Nepalese is wiping dirty dishes with ash. Relatives and friends of the burned person look at everything calmly, apparently, this is how it should be.

You stand across a small thin river and watch how a person is first covered with firewood, then they water it with something and set it on fire

There are about a dozen temples dedicated to Shiva in Pashupatinath. In the middle of each mini-temple there is a lingam - a short cylindrical column with a rounded top, which symbolizes the phallus - the personification of physical strength, creation, renewal. In addition to the shrines, Pashupatinath has a special house where the elderly come to die, a hospital for typhus patients, sadhus houses and a hotel for pilgrims. In a word, the place is colorful.

Swayambunadh- the temple center of Buddhists on the outskirts of the capital. It is also known as the Temple of the Monkeys. Keep in mind that these cute but cunning animals are best avoided. They trade for theft, and although a banana in your hand is much nicer to them than an iphone, the tailed ones can snatch it too. In the center of the complex there is a large stupa, to which 365 steps lead - this is also a good training session before a future ascent.

Finally, the sights of Kathmandu have been examined, a portion of Buddhism has been received, and you can go to the mountains.

How to get to the track?

Any independent hike in the mountains of Nepal begins in a small place Nepal Tourist Board (Bhrikuti Mandap, Kathmandu) where you need to make yourself a permit - a permit without which you will not be allowed into the mountains. This document will need to be shown in special checkpoints in the mountains, so that if you suddenly disappear, the rescuers know when and where you checked in for the last time.

To get to the start of the trek from Kathmandu, take a bus to Besisahara for $ 4-6. Before the start of the trek, the village of Barbule, it will be ten kilometers. It makes no sense to go on foot, cars will rush past and dust right on you. The smart guys will offer to let you down for a ridiculous amount of $ 23 (Nepalese rupees 2,500). Seeing the surprise on your face right there, like a brother, they will throw off up to $ 9. And they will be offended, leaving with nothing, because the local bus will take you for only $ 0.4 (50 rupees). In Barbula, you can stay overnight in inexpensive and clean rooms.

If you go track in low season(winter and summer), then housing can be obtained free of charge. The owners themselves offer to stay in their guesthouse "for food": you will pay only for what you eat in their restaurant at the tourist cost. The price is the same as if you rent an apartment and eat from the locals. But in guesthouses there is one very important, especially at first, plus - their food does not create in you the feeling that all the insides are on fire. Pay attention, there can always be a 5-point postscript in the menu, that 10% of the total amount is a tax that is added to the bill.

In high season, the competition between tourists is higher, and good places for an overnight stay is more difficult to find. But you can always find a place to sleep at the end of the village. Usually no one gets there, and they want to get you at any cost. Haggle!

Light, hot water and a working socket are great blessings. They are not always, not everywhere, and at the end of your journey they will seem like mythical echoes of the past.

Track start

It is customary to go out on the trail early in the morning, the locals will bow friendly and say "namaste", you can answer in the same way. It is generally accepted here to greet and smile with everyone. Soon, nature will take its toll, and you will do it not only because it is accepted, but because you yourself want to smile and greet everyone on the way.

Lush vegetation, banana palms and a sea of ​​monkeys gradually give way to more rugged views, and snowy peaks can be seen in the distance. Here you will begin to understand that everything that bothered you before is a trifle. The trail winds up steeper and steeper, it becomes harder to breathe, the air becomes thinner and colder. On the way, you often come across prayer drums, which you spin without missing a single one.

Milarepa's cave and Manang village

Near the village of Braka is sage Milarepa's cave... He loved to walk in the Himalayas almost 2,000 years ago and live in the most unfavorable conditions. Of course, like yoga, he didn't care. But for us mere mortals it is interesting to follow his life and visit the place where he worked miracles. In addition to the cultural part, the hike to the Milarepa cave is good for acclimatization, you need to give the body time to get used to high altitude and loads.

One of the important transshipment points - big village Manang at an altitude of 3500 m. In the village there is a bakery with delicious cakes and a telephone, and even a weak internet. True, you no longer need it.

In Manang, it usually becomes clear who will be able to take the Torong-La pass at an altitude of 5416 meters, and who better to rest and quietly walk back. But the devil is not so terrible as he is painted, so we will move on.

Closer to the pass

By the tenth day, the landscapes become truly northern: icy rocks, cold stones, green moss and dwarf trees. The owners and guests of the guesthouses warm themselves together on long and cold evenings at the burgeois, which are heated with yak cakes. Food is cooked on them, there are not enough trees here.

Time to take the pass. People get serious after a sleepless night of waiting for themselves. important moment on the route. Everyone gathers their courage and go out after dark in the hope of going down from the other side of the mountain. Opening the door, everyone freezes for a few minutes - the sky that you see there will haunt you for a long time in your dreams.

One step, one more step - and take a breath. Excess items in the backpack simply begin to be hammered to the ground, each step is calculated and an effort must be made for this. Drink a mug of tea - food does not go down your throat. Here many turn back, but if you endure it, go slowly, with pauses, then in 3-4 hours you will be at your goal.

Excess items in the backpack simply begin to be hammered to the ground, each step is calculated and for this you need to make an effort

Joyful screams, hundreds of flags and happy faces. Everyone's fun, hugs perfectly strangers, a photo for memory and a feeling of incredible pride. For yourself, for people, for being here.

Road down

But it’s not over yet - we must go down. Thorong-La is insidious: he lets in a gullible hiker, but he doesn't really want to let him go down. The weather here can change in minutes; it is strictly forbidden to go in a snowstorm or blizzard. Although, in general, the conquest of the pass is not such a difficult process, but bad weather can complicate this business at times.

The descent is long and monotonous, you need to be patient. But below, in Muktinada, all the difficulties will pay off three times! It has hot water, warm and cozy rooms. And on the outskirts of the village you can eat real borscht from a hospitable host from Ukraine.

Everything below Muktinad was already on the way up. You look around the villages and the surrounding nature with a friendly look. Particular attention should be paid to the unusual apple village of Martha. Here apples live their six lives: apple juice, dried apples, apple pie, apple cider and brandy, and the apples themselves. All this is tasty and inexpensive. The village itself is painted white, the streets are unusually empty and clean.

Already below, after so many hardships, you can feel like a special royal blood, swimming in the hot springs of Tatopani. You should not pass this place aside, succumbing to the desire to quickly return to civilization. Then a bus to Pokhara.

6 facts about trekking around Annapurna

Track difficulty - 3/5

Average walking distance - 165 km

Maximum height - Torong-La pass 5416 m

The number of days - an average of 13 (can be reduced to 10 and increased indefinitely)

• The most beautiful snow peaks of the Annapurna massif, which will accompany us throughout most of the trekking
• Three eight-thousanders that can be seen in the distance: Manaslu (8,156m), Dhaulagiri (8,167m) and Annapurna 1 (8,091m)
• Pass Torong-La (5,416m) - one of the highest passes in the world, which are passed without special equipment
• Mountain lake Tilicho - it is located at an altitude of 4,949m and has very large dimensions: length - about 4 km, width - about 1 km
• The unique gorges of the mountain rivers Marciandi and Kali-Gandaki, along which we will go
• The longest under-known bridges across the gorges - a walk along these can tickle the nerves of everyone
• The Mustang area - its lower part, which is completely different from everything we have seen before
• Driving jeeps on, frankly, scary roads
• Fly over the Himalayas from Jomson to Pokhara in a small plane overlooking Annapurna
• Amazing Nepalese traditions, their way of life and culture
• Delicious, albeit unusual, Nepalese food
• Walking in the calm and green town of Pokhara with a boat ride on Phewa Lake
• The main attractions of Kathmandu are Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath, Bodtanh, Patan
• Noisy streets of Thamel - the tourist area of ​​the capital, where we will live
• Evening gatherings for stories ..

And much, much more, because it is so individual. Trekking around Annapurna will undoubtedly be one of the most exciting adventures of your life!

Cost of the program: $ 850

• Included in the price:
• Meeting at the airport;
• Accommodation in lodges on the route;
• Accommodation in hotels in Kathmandu and Pokhara;
• Transfer by ordered bus Kathmandu-Dharapani;
• Transfer by jeeps Dharapani - Chamzhe;
• Moving by jeep Mukhtinath - Jomson;
• All necessary permits and permits;
• Club Couloir guide services;
• Nepalese guide services;
• Track preparation consultations;
• Help with the purchase of air tickets;
• Group first aid kit;
• Porter bag rental

• The price does not include:
• Flight to Nepal ($ 500-700);
• Flight Jomson-Pokhara ($ 110-125);
• ! Compulsory medical insurance from the National Assembly;
• Nepalese visa ($ 30);
• Food ($ 15-20 per day, depending on appetite);
• Porters' services ($ 120 for 12kg);
• Excursions in Kathmandu and Pokhara (optional, from $ 50);
• Tipping to the local guide and porters (about $ 20-30);
• Tipping the guide (not necessary, but he will be glad to see it);
• All expenses not specified in the program (force majeure, evacuation).

The total amount of compulsory expenses not included in the price will be approximately 500 $ + air flight to Nepal (400-700). It is advisable to have about $ 200 in reserve with you.

VERY DESIRABLE: We strongly recommend taking a porter for this track. The cost will be approximately $ 10 for 12 kg of cargo per day. And that for the whole track is about $ 120. + tip (10-20 dollars).

Payment order

To reserve a place in a group, you need to make a prepayment of $ 100. This money is needed to issue passes and book hotels. In case of cancellation of the trip, the money will not be returned, but it can be transferred to another participant or remain in your "account" to pay for future trips. Payment Methods . The rest of the amount is returned to the instructor on the first day of the hike. In case of departure from the route, the money will not be returned.

Friends! We kindly ask you to select dollar bills of 2003 and newer ones. Dollars of the 90s are not accepted in many countries and we sometimes have problems when settling with local partners. Thanks for your understanding and new dollars to everyone :)

Changes in the program

Depending on the weather conditions, condition and general wishes of the group, the instructor has the right to make changes to the route.

Mobile communications, Wi-Fi, charging

There is a connection on trekking around Annapurna, but it is bad. The most popular Nepalese operator Ncell is good at catching only the first days and after the pass - in Mukhtinath. Therefore, we advise you to take SIM cards of the NTC operator, it has coverage in this region better, sometimes it even turns out to watch a video on YouTube :) To buy a SIM card, you need a passport and a 3x4 photo (you can do it on the spot for an additional fee). Wi-Fi is available in every lodge, its cost is 100-300 rupees. V large cities there is free internet in the cafe. There is charging in almost all lodges, except for the base camp of Tilicho and Torong La, the cost of charging can be per hour or per device, the price is 100-800 rupees.

Meals on the track

The menu in all lodges is extremely varied ( different types eggs, pasta, potatoes, soups, pizza, rice). An interesting feature is that the same food in different lodges can be prepared differently and taste completely different! Food prices rise in proportion to height. On average, it will take $ 15-20 per day to eat normally.

For example, we recommend that you look at some of the most expensive prices on the route in the village of Gokyo, but here is a folder with a photo of the menu and food from other lodges on the trek to Everest. On the track around Annapurna, food is much cheaper.

Let's say right away that some people really like Nepalese food, but there are those who “don't go”. With meat on the track, usually tense, you can take some bacon and a stick of sausage with you.

Accommodation on the track

In Kathmandu we will live in Hotel Arts ****. Standard accommodation in double rooms.

During the trek, we live in lodges - these are tourist shelters with a public shower and toilet (sometimes in the room). We order food in the same lodge where we live. The rooms are very simple, small, for 2-3 people, they are not heated. Often there are only beds of furniture. The beds are covered with linens, but it is recommended to bring your own sleeping bag and sleep in it. If you wish, you can ask the owners for a blanket. Almost all lodges have electricity, but power outlets are rare in the rooms.

To better understand the living conditions, we strongly recommend that you look at some examples of lodges from our tracks. Click on the name: nice lodge in Namche Bazar with shower in the room, basic lodge in Dole - without shower and with ice in the washbasin, cool rooms in Eco-resort in Gokyo, standard lodge in Chukung, a cup of tea after spending the night in a room in Gorak -Shepe. Even if you spend the night in other settlements, the lodges will be about the same level.

Individual accommodation is possible for the entire program, it costs + 250 $. Be sure to notify the manager in advance.

Weather

Most of the trek is at moderate altitudes. During the day, the temperature will be about +20 degrees, at night it can drop to zero. During an early exit to the pass, the temperature can drop to -10. It rarely rains. The typical weather for mountainous regions is clear morning and cloudy evening.

Prices, money of Nepal

The country's currency is Nepalese rupees. The rate is approximately 100 rupees to 1 dollar. You can exchange at the hotel at the reception or in the exchange office, with which we have long had an agreement for a more favorable rate. The guide will take you to your desired location. It is noteworthy that the Nepalese are very careless about paper money - it is quite normal to pierce a wad of rupees with a stapler. All expenses on the route are in rupees only. For them before the track, exchange about 400-500 dollars. Bank cards are accepted only in some points in Kathmandu, so be sure to take cash. In addition, there are great restrictions on withdrawing cash from an ATM, and the commission for this is simply extortionate. It is worth buying souvenirs in the counters of Thamel ( tourist area Kathmandu), and not on the sights. Always bargain with the Nepalese, sometimes the price can be dropped several times.

Required documents

A visa to Nepal is issued directly at the border, the cost of a visa for 15 days of stay is $ 30. detailed instructions on registration. To obtain a visa, you only need a valid passport, which is valid for more than 6 months from the date of return flight.

To participate in the hike, you must have no illnesses that are incompatible with active tourism: .

Track map around Annapurna

Upcoming trekking dates around Annapurna + Lake Tilicho

Trekking around Annapurna by day

Day 1. Meeting the group in Kathmandu

Immediately after obtaining a visa (it is placed without problems, you can take it for 15 days for $ 25, one day of delay is not scary), pick up your luggage and go to the exit from the airport. While you are alone or already with a group of tourists flying from your city. For example, several people usually fly from Moscow, St. Petersburg, Kiev, and we introduce them before the trip. It's more fun to fly together. At the exit you will find the guide of the club "Couloir" or our Nepalese assistant, who will take you by taxi to the hotel booked in advance. It is in the hotel that the whole group will gather.

Today is the day of the first acquaintance with the peculiarities of Nepal, our guide will tell you how not to get lost, what is better to buy where and at what prices, where to eat deliciously so as not to get an upset stomach.

In the evening, a general dinner and acquaintance with the group. The guide tells the plans for tomorrow, answers all your questions.

Day 2. Transfer Kathmandu - Besisahar (1 100m) - Chamje (1 430m)

Let us not walk today, but the day is hard - we need to rush to the start of the route. First, we go to the village of Besisahar by a registered minibus. The journey will take about 7 hours with a compulsory stop for breakfast - since we leave at 5 am and at the hotel it is not a fact that we will be able to eat. Many people start walking from Besisahara. But, frankly speaking, it is very boring - for a day and a half to stomp along a wide road where the mountains are not yet visible. Was that why we went to Nepal? Therefore, in Besisahara we change to jeeps and drive through the section to the village of Chamzhe (or even further, if possible). We are accommodated in lodges - mountain shelters.

Day 3. Trekking Chamzhe (1 430m) - Dharapani (1 860m)

First day of trekking around Annapurna! Finally, we do not need to shake in buses and jeeps on these terrible roads, but we can safely stomp on our two while admiring the surroundings. The trail runs along the picturesque Marciandi River, jumping from one bank to the other from time to time. It will not do without steep ascents, this will be the first serious test on the track. Towards evening we will reach the village of Dharapani, where we will spend the night. It is notable for the fact that the path of the track to Manaslu begins from here, but this time we are in the other direction.

Day 4. Trek Dharapani - Chame (2 670m)

Friends, today we will see for the first time really large snowy Himalayan peaks! These peaks are Lamjung (6,983m) and Manaslu (8,157m). They are far away, but the enormous size is felt even from this distance. Moreover, Lamdjung is one of the smallest peaks of the Annapurna massif. We will definitely have a cup of masala or ginger-lemon tee overlooking the mountains and continue our journey. And today he is almost constantly up. Step by step, kilometer by kilometer, we will see the real Buddhist gateway to the village of Chame, walk along the mani wall and spin the drums with mantras.

Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 15 km

Day 5. Trekking Chame - Upper Pisang (3 300m)

We continue to climb rapidly. So much so that today we will see the Gates of Paradise - this is a huge granite amphitheater, smoothed by the Annapurna glacier. In the spring it is covered in snow and looks like a flat plateau for skiing, and in the fall the snow melts and exposes the stone. The scale of this gateway is truly impressive. For the night we will stop in Upper Pisang, settle in our rooms, rest and go for a walk to the monastery. Let's take the time to get to the puja and see how monks in traditional red-orange outfits recite mantras, fingering beads and playing on musical instruments... We can stay here until sunset, after which we will return to our lodge for dinner.

Travel time: 6 hours, distance: 16km

Day 6. Trek Upper Pisang - Manang (3,540)

Personal opinion - today is the most beautiful day in all trekking around Annapurna. The first hour we will walk along a nice pleasant path, admiring the huge peaks of the Annapurna massif, which will open to us in all their glory. The second Annapurna (7 937m) stands out, on the slopes of which, if desired, you can distinguish a wolf's face. We pass a large mani-ox, a hinged bridge and begin a long ascent. Perhaps the most difficult and unpleasant part of the path. But on the other hand, upstairs we will find an excellent viewing platform and a stall with cool drinks, apples and yak cheese. We reached the maximum height for the day, then the trail goes down smoothly, without large differences in elevation and ascents. We will have lunch in the village of Ngawal, and closer to the evening we will go to the largest village in the region - Manang. We will stay here for two nights.

Travel time: 7-8 hours, distance: 20 km

Day 7. Lake Gangnapurna, walking around Manang

Legal day of rest on the track. For better acclimatization, we will spend it actively - spend half a day walking over Lake Gangnapurna, which feeds on glacial waters flowing from the mountain of the same name. Very beautiful and unusual landscapes. We spend the afternoon studying the life of Manang. This is a very small town, which, like most mountain villages in Nepal, lives somewhere in the Middle Ages. There are delicious pastries, tongba (Tibetan beer) and even a couple of cinemas that show movies about the mountains. We advise you to wash and lie down - in front of the key part of the track around Annapurna.

Day 8. Manang - Tilicho Base Camp (4 150m)

A truly extraordinary day. The trail to the Tilicho base camp winds along the loose mountain slopes and takes us to the very heart of the Himalayas. It is here that there is a feeling of a real expedition and some kind of unreality of everything that happens. Impressive landscapes and a huge wall of Mount Tilicho (7,134m) bring the brain into a state of constant ecstasy, the camera shutter clicks without getting tired. There are only a few loggias in the base camp, and there are many tourists. You may need to make room for a little.

Travel time: 6-7 hours, distance: 16 km

Day 9. Radial hike to Lake Tilicho (4,949m)

Radial - this means that we go to the lake light, without all our things, and for the night we return to the same place. Lake Tilicho impresses everyone. First of all, of course, we are interested in the most beautiful landscapes with the reflection of snowy peaks in the calm waters of the lake. Very big lake, about 4 km long and about 1 km wide, which is located at an altitude of 4,949 meters. Just imagine such a huge body of water at such a height - this is a unique and inimitable phenomenon. Often small pieces of ice float on the waters of the lake.

For the overnight stay, we return to the base camp of Tilicho. This trip to the lake will not only give us unique views and wonderful impressions, but also give us the necessary acclimatization to overcome the key point of the trek around Annapurna - the Torong-La pass. Today we will overcome the height of 5000 m for the first time.

Travel time: 6 hours

Day 10. Trekking base camp Tilicho - Yak Kharka (4,018m)

At altitudes of more than 4000 meters, the harsh climate of the highlands is clearly felt - there are few things that can take root and survive here. And only yaks walk and chew dry thorns. You wonder how they can gorge themselves on such food. We will not eat thorns, but we will have breakfast and go to the village of Yak Kharka. A remarkable feature of all Nepalese trekking - the higher you go, the poorer and worse the menu ration, the simpler the lodges, the higher the prices. After all, all goods and products are carried here by porters or yaks. There are no cars here and that's fine.

Day 11. Trek Yak Kharka - Torong Phedi (4,450m) - High Camp (4,925m)

Trekking around Annapurna continues. Today is a difficult day, you need to climb about 800m. The first part of the day is simple - a not steep trail smoothly leads us to the small village of Torong Phedi. There are only a few lodges here and we will stop for a rest and lunch. Gain strength, because ahead of one of the most difficult sections of the hike around Annapurna - an ascent to the upper camp of the Torong La Pass. The difference in height is not so big - 500m, but what a difference! The trail twists steeply in small endless zigzags, the height affects and it becomes harder to walk with each step. Most likely, the group will stretch out here - the nimble ones will go to occupy the lodges, and the rest will gradually rearrange their legs and slowly climb up.

After settling in and a little rest, we will definitely go for a walk around the surroundings. In particular, we will go out to a small hill, from which views of the harsh rocky ridges open. It will not take much time and we will spend the rest of the evening in the dining room: first ordering dinner, then having dinner, then talking and playing games - whoever will have the strength and desire. At night, the temperature at such an altitude can drop to -10, and the lodges will not save you from this. It seems even colder in the middle than outside. Therefore, we climb into the sleeping bag dressed and be sure to cover ourselves with an additional blanket. We are trying to fall asleep, tomorrow is a very early exit and a hard day.

Travel time: 5-6 hours, distance: 9km

Day 12. Torong La Pass (5,419m) - Muktinath (3,760m) - Jomson (2,720m)

The key and most difficult trekking day around Annapurna. Wake up at 4 am, exit at 5. Before leaving, a light semblance of breakfast - tea with cookies. It will be about -10 outside - it's cold, especially considering the lack of oxygen. The hands and feet will freeze most of all. We wrap ourselves up warmer, turn on the flashlights and set out to storm the pass. We need to gain 550m vertical. The trail is good, gently sloping, somewhat reminiscent of the ascent to Elbrus from the south. Gradually we get into a rhythm and warm up. Two hours later it finally dawns and the sun comes out smoothly from behind the rocky peaks. Opening our mouths, we take out the cameras and start frantically filming this action.

There is a small teahouse on the pass. In no case should you drink coffee, but you can have a cup of hot tea and a piece of chocolate. It is imperative to pass the pass before noon, because after that the weather begins to deteriorate, the wind rises and even heavy snow may fall.

If it seemed to you that the ascent was difficult, then do not rush to conclusions. We need to drop 1,800m along rocky paths. This is really hard. In the nearest lodges, we meet and take a break Ginger Lemon Tee Wiz Honi- it tones up perfectly.

By about noon we will descend to Muktinath. Yes, yes, approximately by one in the afternoon. And it seemed to you that an eternity had already passed.

We have lunch, buy souvenirs. Those wishing to still descend from the pass can inspect the local temple. We sit in jeeps and move to Jomson. Here is the airport, from which we will fly to Pokhara tomorrow.

Travel time: 8 hours, distance: 14 km

Day 13. Flight Jomson - Pokhara

That's all, the hiking part of the trek around Annapurna is complete. Today we are flying on a small airplane to Pokhara - one of the largest cities Nepal. We will check into a hotel and spend the rest of the day on excursions. There is plenty to do here. If there is enough time, we will see the Davis waterfall and Shiva's cave, go up to the Peace Stupa, go down to Phewa Lake and return by boat to Lakeside - the tourist area of ​​the city in which we live. You can also visit the unique mountain museum.

Day 14. Transfer from Pokhara to Kathmandu

Long drive to Kathmandu and hotel accommodation. In the evening, walks, shopping - after all, you need to buy souvenirs home. Farewell dinner, at which we share our impressions and exchange contacts, if anyone else has exchanged.

Day 15. Sightseeing Kathmandu, flight home

The first half of the day we will devote to exploring the main attractions of Kathmandu - temple complex Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath and Bodnath stupas.

Take your tickets for evening flights.

Who is this track for

If you want to see the maximum variety of Himalayan landscapes, walk through the jungle and forests, visit original villages lost among highest mountains planets - you are on the right track. In comparison, this route is a little easier in terms of acclimatization, but wilder, there are significantly fewer tourists. In addition to a wide variety of nature, you will also often meet monasteries and other Nepalese shrines, where you can visit puja, imbued with the spirit of Buddhism. The main highlights of the route are Lake Tilicho and the Thorong La Pass, which will require as much effort as you can to climb.

How to prepare for the track

Due to the fact that we sleep and eat in lodges, backpacks on the route will be light. In addition, it is always possible to hire a porter, which we highly recommend to all participants. He will carry the bulk of your things (up to 12 kg), and you will go with a small backpack, in which you will carry a warm jacket, water, documents and money. The track around Annapurna is not easy, but every person who leads an active lifestyle can do it. Running (about 5-7 km 2-3 times a week), squats, cardio exercises, which will not only increase your endurance, but also train your legs for daily transitions, are best suited for preparing for a mountain track. The better your physical condition, the easier you will be able to endure altitude, get acclimatized and more enjoy the track and the scenery around you.

When to go

As with other regions of Nepal, there are two seasons for trekking in the Himalayas - spring (mid-March to late May) and autumn (mid-October to mid-December). If you go in the spring, then you need to be prepared for the fact that there will still be a lot of snow on the pass and approach to the lake, and the lake itself is hidden under the ice. But a big plus during this period is the blooming rhododendra forests, which create incredible contrasting pictures against the background of snow-white mountains. In the afternoon in the spring, the sky is often covered with clouds and at about 3-4 o'clock in the afternoon it can start raining or snowing. But by this time we usually arrive at the lodge. Autumn is warmer, there are practically no clouds, the snow on the pass has melted, and the lake attracts the eye with the bright blue color of the water.

When and where to buy tickets to Kathmandu

You need to buy tickets in advance, as soon as we confirm your participation in the track. It is most convenient to fly from the CIS with AirArabia and FlyDubai, and it is worth buying tickets on their websites. Please note that luggage is not included in the price and you will need to add 20 kg at the time of purchase. When boarding, you need the credit card used to pay for the tickets - do not forget it! The cost of tickets in both directions is $ 500-700.

To find the cheapest tickets, you can use the form below:

Get good insurance

Buying equipment

Porters

Porters are porters who carry your things for money. No more than 24 kg can be loaded per porter. The cost of such a service is about $ 20 per day, but you can take one porter for two - it will be half the price! It is not customary to feel sorry for porters, no matter how much they load on themselves. As well as inviting them to your table. In lodges, porters have their own room where they eat and sleep with friends. Your best gratitude would be a tip equal to the porter's daily wage. So grab an extra $ 20 for tea for a porter and a Nepalese guide.

IMPORTANT!

The guide has the right to refuse you to participate in the program if your equipment does not correspond to the recommended on the website. For example, if instead of mountain boots you took sneakers or rubber boots.

Please be as responsible as possible when collecting equipment. Not only your health depends on this, but also the comfortable passage of the route as a group as a whole!

RECOMMENDED 🔔

When packing a backpack, put all things in plastic bags (you can use trash bags), this will protect them from getting wet in case of heavy rain or snow.

There is nothing worse than a wet sleeping bag on a hike, put it in the strongest bag that will definitely not tear. Also pack warm items very carefully, especially down ones. Stay dry and have fun with the adventure!

List of equipment for the track

Shoes

• Trekking boots - semi-high, hard, well worn. Article: " "
• Trekking shoes - optional but will be more comfortable at low altitudes
• Trekking sandals, crocs - for light trails and rest in the camp

Cloth

• Light headgear - cap, buff
• Warm hat - ideal ones are sold in Kathmandu for 1-2 dollars
• Fleece gloves
• Warm down jacket, always with a hood (designed for -5 ..- 10 degrees)
• Membrane jacket with ventilation, windproof "skirt" and hood
• Diaphragm pants - self-discharge or with ventilation - optional
• Lightweight trekking pants
• Shorts
• Warm fleece or Polartec
• Lightweight fleece
• Fleece suit for sleeping (or "inactive" thermal suit)
• A set of good active thermal underwear - for movement. Article: " "
• T-shirts - 2-3 pieces
• Trekking socks - 5 pairs. We use Nepalese for $ 1.5-2 a pair.
• Woolen socks - 1 pair for sleeping
• Shoe covers (flashlights)
• Changeable underwear
• Raincoat or poncho
• Light dress for photos (it is really beautiful :)

Equipment

• Sleeping bag. Comfort temperature -5 for men and -7 ° C for girls. Article: " "
• Lightweight trekking backpack for 30-40 liters. Article: " "
• Nice sunglasses (protection factor 4) in a hard case
• Microfiber towel
• Thermos for 0.5-0.7 liters (optional)
• Head Torch
• Trekking poles. Article: " "
• Personal first aid kit. The composition of a personal first aid kit is here: ""
• Sun cream with at least 50 units of protection
• Hygienic lipstick
• Moisturizing hand cream
• Stock of wet sanitary napkins
• Toilet paper
• Documents, money - in a sealed package
• Camera, telephone
• A set of personal goodies - sneakers, nuts. Small, up to 1 kg in weight
• Powerbanks - better a couple
• Small toys, pencils, notepads as a gift for local children

Tablets (in addition to a personal first aid kit)

There are no miracle pills to save you from altitude sickness. The main thing here is smooth and competent acclimatization. Some pills can make it faster and easier. If you are confident in your abilities, you do not need to take pills.

• Diacarb, Aceteselomide is the active ingredient of Diamax. Start taking one tablet in the morning the day before reaching an altitude of 3000 m. Diuretic, lowers internal pressure. According to our personal observations, it really helps the participants to better tolerate the height. Contraindicated in the presence of renal failure
• Hypoxenum - recommended for increased physical activity, including mountain climbing. Start taking a week before the track
• Vitamins - prepare your body for stress, compensate for vitamin deficiencies in the mountain diet. Start taking two weeks before the start.

Why this time Nepal and the track around Annapurna? Because it's MOUNTAINS! Himalayas. The beloved Himalayas again, but not Indian, but Nepalese.
I was interested in Nepal from my youth, but in those years I did not even think that I would ever find myself here.
On this trip we were called “trekkers” (from the word “trekking” - hiking trip in the mountains).
Why was I, completely unprepared, never an athlete, able to become a trekker in Nepal?

Because here it is possible for any person. In Nepal there are routes that go through the mountains from one village to another. Since the slopes in Nepal are all inhabited, sooner or later you will definitely come to some village where you can have dinner and spend the night, so there is no need to lug a tent and a supply of food. It is very comfortable.

Trek around Annapurna (or Ring of Annapurna)

Of all the Nepalese tracks, we have chosen , because we read a lot on the Internet, what a super-duper-picturesque it is, it passes through a high-mountain pass, and in general the very best. And the fact that the ascent to this pass is not an easy one, they do not really write about it. Apparently, the difficulties are quickly forgotten, only beauty remains in the memory.

Technical data for the track around Annapurna:
length - 211 km,
duration - about 20 days,
height difference - from 800 m (at the beginning of the route) to 5416 m (Torong-La pass).
The route is circular (open circle), it is recommended to go counterclockwise, because if you walk clockwise, then a very sharp climb before the pass, it is harder to walk, moreover, the body does not have time to acclimatize at the altitude and, as a result, is tormented by mountain sickness.

What is "Annapurna Mountain Range"

The Annapurna mountain range is located in the central part of Nepal (the map enlarges if you open it in a new window):

These are the southern spurs of the Main Himalayan Range.
This mountain range stretches for 55 km from east to west.
This is what it looks like from an airplane (photo from Wikipedia):

The picture can be enlarged by opening in a new window, and consider all this beauty.

Main peaks mountain range Annapurna in descending order of heights:
Annapurna I - 8091 m,
Annapurna II - 7937 m,
Annapurna III - 7575 m (on another map - 7555 m),
Annapurna IV - 7535 m (on another map - 7525 m),
Gangapurna - 7455 m,
Annapurna South - 7219 m,
Tilicho Peak - 7134 m,
Nilgiri - has three peaks - 7061, 6940 and 6839 m,
Machapuchare - 6998 m.

Our route goes around this entire massif.

It translates as "the goddess of the harvest." But when you get acquainted with the history of climbing the main peak of this massif, the question involuntarily arises: "What kind of harvest are we talking about?" This mountain has indeed reaped the largest harvest - the highest mortality rate among climbers (41% in all years of climbing). Plus to this terrible figure in October 2014 was added a terrible tragedy with the death of tourists, porters and local residents in the area of ​​the Annapurna mountain range as a result of a cyclone that came from Indian Ocean and caused abnormal snowfall and avalanches.

Track map around Annapurna

The card (as it turned out) is rather arbitrary, but this is given out when. Detailed map large format, which I bought in a bookstore, I will lay out piece by piece as you go along the route, since it does not fit entirely into the scanner.
On this map, our trail is in brown.

The map can be enlarged.

Track elevation scheme

I scanned the elevation map that is issued when receiving permits. Since it is long, I split it in two.
Part 1 - eastern - from Besisahara to Torong La pass.
(map increases)

And part 2 - west - from Thorong La pass to Nyapool
(increases)

The first conquest of Annapurna by the Erzog's expedition

Annapurna is the 10th highest eight-thousander in the world and the first conquered by man.
In 1950, people first ascended the summit - French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal. About this expedition, Maurice Erzog wrote the exciting book Annapurna. It’s impossible to tear yourself away from reading, especially after you’ve visited those parts yourself: familiar places, familiar names of rivers along which you also walked, familiar names of villages in which you also stopped ... The most amazing thing is that the Erzog's expedition did not have a clear map (the map was erroneous), and they had to, through numerous reconnaissance, determine which particular peak is Annapurna and how to approach it. The situation was complicated by the fact that initially this group was given the task - within the allotted time to ascend either Dhaulagiri or Annapurna (at that time they were both not conquered), or, wherever possible, and climb there. And the first peak, on which they spent a lot of time, was Dhaulagiri, but the ascent failed, after which they switched to looking for approaches to Annapurna, and there was not much time left, the monsoon was approaching and they had to hurry ... And when the peak was finally, conquered, a very difficult, unsuccessful and full of dramatic descent began ... In general, if you have not read it, I highly recommend it.

After half a year of preparation and several years of dreaming, we finally made it to Nepal on the track around Annapurna. What kind general impressions? Now, after several months have passed since my return, when emotions have subsided and the body has recovered, I can say that it was unforgettable journey, I will gladly return to Nepal again, but now to the Everest region.

So, how it all was….

There were 8 people in our group (this is not a commercial group, but just 8 friends who love something unusual), which helped us rent an inexpensive private transfer and buy out half of the guest houses.

We flew China Southern Airlines, which we initially regretted more than once. I categorically do not recommend contacting these guys: constant changes of flight schedules, a website where it is impossible to find out anything, a call-center in which you cannot get through, and if you do, you face a problem when the operators practically do not speak English, etc. etc. However, this was all before our trip, the flight itself went without problems.

Arriving in Kathmandu - (1360m above sea level), we stayed at the Dream Nepal hotel. Not a bad place for the price, location and service. The owner of the hotel was very helpful and helped us with any question, provided free transfer to / from the airport, helped to book good hotel in Pokhara with a discount, took us to the Nepal Tourism Board several times to obtain permits and even, when we were already on the track, ordered us plane tickets for 8 people from Jomsom to Pokhara without any advance payment, hoping only for our honesty that after the track we will return to it and pay for everything.

Coming out of the airport, we were immediately surrounded by a crowd of local “helpers”, annoyingly offering their service. To somehow get rid of them, Dima found a very unusual way out of this situation. He carried in his hands a large envelope with red letters Costco (Costco is a supermarket chain) and showed the Nepalese as if it meant something, and, oddly enough, it had a magical effect on the local porters, they nodded in understanding and lagged behind. This envelope later became our talisman. Throughout the trip, when the locals too imposed their attention or did not allow us to do something, we joked among ourselves that they needed to show Costco's envelope.

13th day transfer to Kathmandu, which took about 6 hours from Pokhara by private minibus, a short walk around the capital with a stop at the Monkey Temple, shopping for souvenirs in the city center.

Day 14 flight home in the morning from Kathmandu airport.

The government of Nepal has set itself the goal of connecting with roads most of the remote villages in the mountains, many believe that this will mark the end of the wild hiking in this area, real tourists with big bellies and even larger cameras will begin to come here en masse, who will be served comfortable hotels and chic restaurants. As an example, the paved road to Manang, which until recently did not exist. But, having been there, I can say that such tourists will not be there for a long time, like good roads unless the government changes or something else happens in Nepal. If the current government builds roads, it will most likely be some kind of primitive, driving on which is a real suicide. But even because of such primitive roads, the number of tourists who come to Nepal precisely because of its authenticity, the opportunity to plunge into places untouched by civilization, will certainly decrease, and not everyone will like walking along the roads along which jeeps periodically raise dust. But you can understand the locals - it is more important for them to get comfort in their lives than to satisfy the whims of tourists. I am glad that we managed to visit the Nepalese Himalayas even before the mass construction.

What are your impressions of the trip? At first there were no impressions, there was only fatigue, a desire to return to civilization, lie in a hot bath and forget the nightmare seen in Kathmandu. But after a couple of weeks I began to catch myself thinking that I wanted to go back. At first I was scared of this desire, but then I clearly realized that even now I was ready to pack my backpack and go to Nepal.

Here the dream of seeing the Himalayas came true, even though we didn’t do any climbing peaks, but just walked the trails, but our boots had real Himalayan dust, and our eyes enjoyed the most beautiful mountain landscapes in the world.

And these mountain villages ... If not for the occasional satellite dishes and wires, it seemed that time had stopped here. Unusual places with stone houses on the slopes and narrow streets from tourist photographs came to life and became a reality. And the people in the mountains of Nepal ... They are really very beautiful, a light shines in their eyes, and early wrinkles do not spoil them at all. Stone houses, bright national clothes and knitted hats only confirm that they value their traditions, do not want to change their way of life and are happy with what they have.

The Himalayas ... they don't even need to be described, what's the use of saying that I am delighted with the greatness of the mountains I saw, about climbing which I watched hundreds of films and read dozens of books.

I will never forget the bells on the necks of the yaks, the prayer drums, the faces of Nepalese women, the feeling of life there, the dinners in the evenings and the bright stars above Annapurna II.

If we discard Kathmandu, Pokhara, the road to the start of the trek and back, then it was a very interesting and unforgettable journey. The inhabited regions of Nepal with their filth just want to be thrown out of memory. But in general, an unpleasant aftertaste remained in our souls: we arrived there and left after 2 weeks to our comfortable homes, to prosperous areas with lawns and flowers, to the world of cars, highways and civilization, to the world of the Internet, unmanned vehicles and space flights. And these people remained there to live in their small primitive houses with cracks, forced to work hard physically, fighting for their existence every day. Perhaps, looking at them through the prism of European values, I see no reason why they can be happy, they only cause pity in me. But, despite the fact that for many Nepalese even the foundations of the Maslow pyramid are not fulfilled, they feel quite happy, perhaps we really do not understand a lot of things in this life and we should sometimes take an example from the Nepalese.