Krillon peninsula. The Krillon Peninsula: A Story of Betrayal. Open-air museum. Crillon

place about. Sakhalin, Krillon peninsula

time September-October 2013

Day one: south again

In mid-September (2013) free days stood out: the excitement with orders subsided, and nothing else was planned for the near future. That's it, now I'm definitely going to Cape Crillon! But Maxim persuaded to go to the thousand-meter (1) of South Sakhalin - Mount Spamberg. Maxim just had a vacation, and he desperately needed to somehow usefully spend time. I had to go to meet my dear comrade.

Let's go to the Spamberg mountain. In the foothills and on the slopes of this mountain, we rode for four days. We reached only the high-mountainous lake Mokhovoy. We set up camp there. The next day, they began to storm the summit, but met fierce resistance from the bamboo, and when a dwarf cedar came to the rescue with a sudden rain, we capitulated. They were content only with contemplating the summit from a two-kilometer distance. But, returning to the camp, we rode on a raft made by someone a long time ago and comprehended the beauty of Lake Mokhovoy (clouds overhead!).

We returned to the city on Friday. I had enough for a day and a half, and on Sunday I got ready to travel again. Now for sure on Crillon! This time, nothing held: the fact is that, returning from the Spamberg mountain, I contacted another employer and found out that while I was chilling out on the heights of South Sakhalin, they unsuccessfully tried to get out to me so that I would come to them in a hurry. and signed the short-term contract. Naturally, I was out of touch, and thus lost an order for a considerable amount of money. This was a reason to be upset, but remembering that just before the departure to Mount Spamberg, about which I had firmly agreed with Maxim in advance, I had to refuse the customer who suddenly called, I realized that I was dealing with System (2), and calmed down ... This System is cleverly arranged: either you are spinning in it, receiving stable money, food and entertainment, and at the same time you are a dependent cog, an instrument and executor of someone else's will; or you are outside of it, but at the same time you lead a chaotic, unstable, but, most importantly, a free lifestyle, and your life is full of unpredictability, interesting people and beautiful landscapes. In general, the blind System wants one thing from you: that you sit still and wait from it for instructions, instructions and commands. The system is dumb, and there are ways to get around it. However, you have to sacrifice profit and comfort. This is what I felt from my own experience.

If so, then to walk, so to walk: hastily packed up a backpack, at 14.20 o'clock left on a regular bus to the city of Aniva. Outside the city, a jeep stopped (after all, hitchhiking is a fun activity!), And the driver Dima took me to the village of Taranay, along the way describing the advantages of kiting, which he became interested in. Behind the village, hitchhiking did not go well: no one picked it up. Thus, from Taranay itself to Cape Krillon, I walked on foot.

After walking a couple of kilometers along the road, I decided to go to the seashore, because the road went further down the hills. I walked south, contemplating the Krillon peninsula stretching far ahead and the illusory islets of the Tonino-Aniva peninsula, blue on the other side of the Aniva Bay. I also walked south along that strait coastline a month ago. The extreme points of Sakhalin, according to the Sakhalin scientist and traveler Andrei Klitin, attract us to themselves, as they once attracted ancient hunters striving to reach the ends of the earth. I caught myself thinking that I was going after happiness. How true this is, I find out at the end of the journey, but for now I feel earthly happiness to walk into the distance with a backpack on my back.

In general, the concept of the autonomous existence of a personality has long fascinated me: a tent, a sleeping bag, a sleeping mat, a necessary supply of food, matches, a gas burner with a gas cylinder (a new item in my hiking set; I bought it inexpensively at the Lyubitel store; the store has everything for traveling, I recommend it!), a headlamp, a change of clothes - all this allows free movement in space and weighs only 12 - 15 kg. Of course, such a lifestyle involves certain inconveniences and quickly becomes boring, but, nevertheless, romantics provide an opportunity to truly “take everything from life”.

Aniva Bay ... Beautiful, long-suffering, poisoned by RTGs (3) and other filth. Driving away from myself these sad thoughts, I try to think about the positive. Still, Sakhalin is a unique place: wherever you are, it will be different everywhere. Hills and tundra, taiga and mountains, bays and waterfalls - and all on one island!

I walk along the coast, past jeeps and cars, people having rest, fishing nets in the sea, children playing in the sand, running dogs, etc. The coast is littered. I hasten to go through the hustle and bustle of the people. They call me. A boy of about twenty-five or eight years old, kind of a collective farm, politely interested in my person. We talk. Politely admires my trip. Shakes hands goodbye. After walking several hundred meters, I hear a shout: a fixed fisherman offers fish from an inflatable boat not far from the shore.

Is free! he adds.

I refuse with a smile, referring to the lack of space in my backpack.

Dusk gradually deepened. We need to set up camp. Pleased with the abundance of wood washed ashore. I stop at a full-flowing river, a little short of Kirillov. I'm pitching a tent, making a fire. On the side of the river is a fishing camp. From there, two bodies in orange fishing jackets are heading towards me. One of them, coming to the edge of the river water, shouts to me "Hey!" and waves his hand. I'm coming over.

If I see that you are putting on a network ...! - a cheeky, thuggish threatening tirade is heard.

What makes you think that I will put the network ?! - I answer him in tone.

The middle-aged man is losing ground and adding notes of apology to his speech:

You’re sorry, of course, that in such a tone, but here recently two spent the night. In the morning I looked, they set up the net and caught two of them. And here RUZ (4) is standing, waiting for the fish to enter.

I decide to change the subject:

Is the water in the river drinking?

And in response to an affirmative answer, I ask a new question:

Will you give me sugar tomorrow morning, or forgot to take it at home in a hurry?

The fisherman turned out to be trouble-free.

Another feature of this area that struck me was the presence of evil mosquitoes. It's a strange thing, in the taiga on the slopes of Mount Spamberg they were not, but here they are aggressively attacking! What an anomaly ?! It's autumn, it's already cold, it's time for them to go to bed. No, they are active as in summer!

... And again experienced on the opposite shore of the Nevelskoy Strait, near the Lazarev village, the feeling when, sitting in the evening at the tent, I looked with longing at my native Sakhalin coast and wondered if the sea would calm down the next day so that it would be possible to cross the strait. This feeling is a feeling of loneliness, abandonment and at the same time it is the realization that no one needs you, except for loved ones who are not around, but who love and wait for you.

From behind the mountains of the opposite bank, in the vicinity of Prigorodnoye and Mount Juno, on the other side of the Aniva Bay, an orange defective moon swam. There is beauty all around: the lights of that coast, the bright stars in the sky, the Milky Way ... Firewood is blazing merrily. The taiga firewood of the Spamberg Mountains did not really want to burn, but these directly enjoy life.

I hang up.

Day two: complete freedom, tides and an aura of legend around the Kartavy family

Ascent at 6.50. Very cold. From three o'clock in the morning I could not sleep: my body ached from the cold. At dawn, however, it became more fun in the sense that he contemplated the colors of life: mountains, a bay, lights of ships and settlements, all this - in the rays of dawn. The firewood here is really blessed: it flashes in a swing, giving the joy of warmth

Wading the river, I go out to the camp. Fishermen are sitting on the embankment, among them is my yesterday's interlocutor. As promised, he gave sugar, even with interest - he will definitely pull a half a kilo. The fishermen around me liven up: I brought fresh air into their monotonous reality (to wait all day for fish to come!). As usual, they gave a bunch of advice on the road.

I walk along the coast lit by the morning sun. "Absolute freedom!" - sang, I remember, Romych Neumoev from the Siberian "Instructions for survival". Here it is, complete freedom! For all that, this is not just aimless wandering around the world, but scientific travel. This definition was deduced by the ideologist of hitchhiking Anton Krotov. After all, travel - whether on foot, hitchhiking, hydrostop, air stop, bicycle, kayak - is always the expansion of the horizons of knowledge. These are new lands, and new people, and new impressions, and most importantly, new knowledge. From this position, hitchhiking - and any travel - is good in the period from 18 to 30 years old. The basis in the head and soul is laid by the capital! And, of course, an invaluable life experience.

I am approaching the liquidated village of Kirillovo. Until recently, there was a border outpost, a cordon that controlled the passage to the territory of the reserve (the Krillon peninsula is a reserve). In 2005 or 2006, it was disbanded, and jeeps and other ATVs poured here in a free stream, and now there is a passage yard.

I am met by a rusty all-terrain vehicle, or rather, its frame. Monument to the former might of the Soviet Army. In the distance, a lonely observation tower rises.

There is nothing to protect, Sakhalin is now a zone of free machinations of world bosses, covetous people and hucksters. What can you do, this is postmodern (5), an era when the world is ruled by petrodollar hucksters, teleclowns and opportunists. No state ideology; instead of love for the Motherland - cheap pseudo-patriotism and the desire to dump abroad, because it is more comfortable there. How many disbanded and plundered military units in Russia have I seen! It is not possible to pass calmly.

I wade the Uryum river. In general, the rivers on the east coast of Crillon are full-flowing. More on this below.

I hit the camp. The dog barks. A tall man of about fifty with a beard comes out. I asked him for bread. He gave crackers - not bad either, even better: they will not grow moldy. My new friend's name is Vadim. He is from Krasnoyarsk. I came here in my car on the fishing line, but there were very few fish this year, and now he sadly estimates how much money he will need to return home. She misses, she says, for her little granddaughter. It turns out that Vadim is a truck driver, he has traveled all over the country! Look, even here, on the shores of a distant Russian island, far from federal highways, an eternal union-symbiosis-friendship of hitchhikers and truckers has found itself. At parting, Vadim and the dog accompanied me a little.

I am passing an interesting coast. Tall, it consists of petrified sand (as it seemed to me, although I am not a geologist). In one place, this slope "melted" out of itself the head of some mutant. Miracles, and more!

Here I arrange lunch: I heat up canned pearl barley porridge on a gas burner.

I go out to the Maksimovka river. There is a big camp here. A peasant came out, over fifty years old, in a leather jacket, decolonized (there are people whose elegance is maintained in any conditions). He introduced himself as Sasha. He guards the camp until spring. This has been the case for several years. He says he likes it here, and when he is at home, in Chekhov, he is drawn here. It's especially good here in winter, he adds.

Not far from him is another camp. His young boy is guarding. They visit each other.

And recently I go in the evening from him to my place. It's dark, a candle is a flashlight. I see - the bear is following me, I both shouted and drove him away, and he kept following me all the way to the house, until he turned into the thicket.

Sasha gave me tea and fed me with huge, delicious pancakes made by him on the basis of coffee powder. He gave me crackers, pancakes and an anti-mosquito ointment for the journey. In general, I once again concluded that they will not give you an abyss in our lost world: they will feed you, give you something to drink, and give you everything on the road (6).

While we were having tea, Sasha said that this year there was no fishing season. He personally earned only 650 rubles (!) At the fish factory in Aniva for the whole season. For myself, I make the assumption that one of the main reasons for the poor entry of fish is the blocking of Sakhalin rivers by RUZs in previous years.

Sasha accompanied me with a young playful cat Sima.

She, like a dog, walks along the coast with me.

The Ulyanovka River flows nearby. It was from this place that my incessant struggle with the elements and metaphysical adventures on this wayward peninsula began.

The river itself is not small, and then the tide of the sea began. Waves go straight into the river. I was thrusting ford, and immediately realized that the depth is not childish. Slightly upstream - a Japanese bridge; I thought I'd go over it, but it turned out to be destroyed. I found the following way out of the situation: with the help of a pole, I felt a scythe across the sea, where it was possible to go waist-deep in water, and, having loaded the bag (7) on my shoulders, crossed over to the other side.

The sun, leaning to the west, set over the high bank. The tide is pressing. I walk over the stones - a strip of small boulders has begun. Broken TV comes across.

Original: in remote places there is such an echo of civilization. And even with a broken screen. Apparently, the fishermen (or bears?) Were sitting watching and looking and, unable to endure the filth of what was happening on the screen, broke it with stones and went home. Imagination works well in such places. O! and here is the refrigerator. On the western coast of the Tonino-Aniva Peninsula a month ago I met them quite well; now look, and here they come across!

I walk to each new cape with bated breath: something will open behind it? ..

Ford again - the Kura river. I cross this river up to my neck in water with a bag on my head - it is so deep. However, this is a high tide, at low tide you can probably walk it up to the waist.

Came out on the spit. There is a fishing camp in about three hundred meters. The boy who met me said that a little further - Uncle Sasha and Oleg Kartavykh. Kartavyh ?! Bah, familiar surname!

And after walking two kilometers - just beginning to get dark - I see: the camp is not a camp, but some kind of gazebos, houses, etc. At the mouth of the river (Kolkhoznaya river), in an artificial dam, there are cut carcasses of seals, which I did not like right away. There is a jeep nearby. Two men came out to meet them.

Going south? Come and spend the night. There you will reach the maximum to Medvedevka, and that's it. So it’s better to spend the night with us, ”a jaunty man tells me outright.

Yeah, here he is the son of a famous father. However, the presence of carcasses of seals does not allow me to completely trust these hospitable people:

I've seen seals butchered here, aren't you poachers by any chance?

The guy's face changed slightly, but, looking into my eyes, he found a suitable and biting answer:

No, we just catch travelers, butcher and bury them. - And, seeing my equanimity, he added with pretentious passion, - what kind of poachers are we to you ?! The reserve is here, everything is legal. I myself would shoot these poachers. Come in and spend the night with us. We'll have supper now.

Oleg Kartavykh - St. John's wort, as he introduced himself; son of Fyodor Leontyevich Kartavykh, a famous hunting expert, senior huntsman Krillon, who at one time supervised the peninsula. His grave is on the Naichi River. There, next to him, his wife is buried. I read about Fyodor Leontievich in the story of a Sakhalin writer shortly before the campaign.

After Batey there was no one in his place. And when the outpost in Kirillovo was removed in 2006, anarchy set in on Krillon, Oleg stated the sad fact.

This frontier post, it seems, did not so much protect the frontier zone from spies, saboteurs and foreign invasions, as from our local barbarians.

Here is a border guard sitting, he sees you go: he wanted - let you in, did not want - he sent to FIG.

During dinner, Oleg told a lot of interesting things about his father. Fedor Leontyevich, it turns out, became famous for the fact that he eliminated a huge cannibal bear on the peninsula, which devoured its own kind. According to Oleg, who heard all this from his parent, this monstrous bear chose a place for himself where the river makes a turn: he lay over a three-meter cliff and just lay there, waiting for a victim. He hears steps on the water and jumps in front of the dazed bear. Fills it up, hides the carcass and lies down further. He hears again the stomp on the water, jump - and there is no wandering relative.

And somehow this cannibal bear lies in its ambush, - says Oleg, - hears: steps. Jumping off a cliff, and in front of him is not a bear, but ... Fyodor Leontievich.

Oleg, with a sense of natural pride in his father, continues:

The gutted carcass of this giant weighed 520 kg! At VDNKh, his skull took first place. And when they wanted to send to Europe (European competition), there was a snag: our intelligence found out that the skull of the trophy bear Ceausescu (8) was smaller. It was decided not to humiliate Ceausescu - the trophy of some Fedor Leontievich, you see, is more than Ceausescu's trophy! - and thus not to spoil relations with Romania, and the batin bear was not exhibited in Europe. This is all politics, so that it was empty!

Oleg's partner Sanya was sitting next to me at the table. We were treated to soup and pelengas.

Eat everything, we already ate during this time.

When the cannibal bear was overwhelmed, they found five or six of the bears he had killed buried in it, '' Oleg said briskly, continuing the topic.

I don’t like it when they boast, - he developed the idea, - that, they say, they killed a bear from three hundred meters, etc. They would try, like Fyodor Leontyevich, to have a deal with bears.

I thought even further: that our ancestors went to bear with a spear and often won in a fair fight. Now hunting prowess is lowering its bar as small arms are improved. Everything is relative.

And are you not afraid to walk alone among the bears like this? - St. John's wort looks at me with a small amount of irony.

But somehow there is no fear, it's a common thing, - I answer calmly.

You have been attacked by a bear at least once. No? But he attacked me ... You would have spoken differently.

The bear seems to be a calm creature. I even heard that he is afraid of a person. You just need not to provoke him ...

Wielding a spoon, Oleg grinned, casting a glance at me:

And who knows what is on his mind. Here we are sitting here with you, eating, and you suddenly take a knife and chop us all. Who knows you ?! So is the bear.

Sitting in a gazebo against the backdrop of a twilight bay and distant high shores, we talked with Oleg for life.

You have to choose your wife so that she is eight years younger: that is, for example, you are forty years old, and she ... somewhere thirty-two. Well, so that she would have grabbed it in full in this life, would have burned herself from the men and would not twitch anymore.

I strongly disagree with these views of him.

However, giving advice about life is a thankless task, to each his own, - Oleg cheerfully summed up.

Having come to this general conclusion, we went to sleep in the deepening darkness.

Judging by the words of Oleg Kartavykh, from the barrier of the village of Kirillovo to his camp is 27 kilometers. Thus, in a day I made about 30 km.

Day three: hospitable fishing camps, Sakhalin jungle and Cape Anastasia

We woke up at seven in the morning from an assertive and loud voice:

Sanya! Get up!

It was Oleg who woke up his partner (I spent the night in Sanya's house).

Get up, get up! It is necessary to collect things.

Today they roll up and leave the camp. Until midday, when the tide begins, you have to have time to collect belongings and disassemble the houses and slip along the low tide to the north. The tide starts at twelve. We already know what tides are, especially at river mouths.

The sky was dark. However, the forecast promised just that: it would rain on Tuesday morning.

The motto of Fyodor Leontyevich Kartavykh was: “If you can't do it, don't promise, if you swing it, hit it”.

With such parting words, Oleg and Sanya took me on the road. At parting, Oleg gave me his mobile number.

I went out at 8.30 am. It was dripping with rain. After a while, it began to drip more persistently, and a heavy rain began, which overnight soaked me to the skin.

Soon the buildings appeared - it was me, having walked about 8 km, came to the banks of the Naychi River (this is where the grave of F.L. Kartavykh and his wife is located). On the northern bank of the river is the camp. As I was told the day before, a certain Petrovich lives here.

The camp is huge. I knock on the door. A chubby guy named Sergei came out. Petrovich himself was in the trailer. After a while, the three of us were already having breakfast. Petrovich is a bearded, hardened, strong internally elderly man who has lived in these parts since 1989. On east coast Crillon is known to everyone. In turn, he personally knew F.L. Kartavykh.

Treating me to smoked duck with rice, Petrovich told me how three years ago two Englishwomen spent the night in this camp, who were sailing to Japan by canoe. I recognized them at once: or rather, one of them was Sara Outen. She went around the world and across Sakhalin moved to Japan: just from Krillon to Wakkanai through the La Perouse Strait. I then worked in the authorities and dealt with this issue.

In the evening, I saw a kayak docked. Two girls got out of it and set up a tent on the shore, - Petrovich recollects, - I tell them: bears roam here, I don’t go to the toilet without a gun ... In general, I invited them to spend the night inside.

According to Petrovich, there was a Japanese village with a school in this place. No wonder, under the Japanese, all of South Sakhalin was built up and populated. In the foothills of Mount Spamberg, we met many fields of considerable size - the Japanese mastered. They, the Japanese, are economic people.

After breakfast, I crossed Naychi, flowing almost under the very windows of the dining room, in Petrovich's bogs, and leaving them under a snag on the other side, as agreed with Petrovich, walked on, looking with interest at the horse grazing in the distance. Horses on Sakhalin are bred quite actively. The horse, a noble and unpretentious creature, is admirable.

After an almost 8-kilometer journey under the rain streams, I notice an Orthodox cross in the hills, crowning a chapel hidden in wet trees. I went to the Mogucha river, on the banks of which the next camp was located.

A cow and rams graze around. The dog is running. I notice a woman entering the house. I hurry after her, knocking on the door. The door opens, and a woman of about fifty, who has just entered, and a man of eastern nationality with a bandana on his head, are looking at me. The phrase with which I was met spoke volumes:

You are my dear man!

It was Olga, the mistress of the house, who expressed sympathy for my soaked state. Alik immediately offered to change. After visiting the chapel on the hill, I ate three cups of hot borscht, listening to the story of these kindest people. Olga is from the Altai Territory. Here for the fourth year she has been working as a cook. At home - a husband and five children. About two years ago I went to visit my family and since then I could not leave - there was still not enough money. Moreover, this year there was almost no fish. Alika was also leaving her life, and he has been here for the third year without getting out (!).

Here, in fact, is not only a camp, but also a recreation center. Every weekend in the warm season, parties are held here for wealthy people: discos, booze, etc.

Olga shows me on her digital camera photographs of their life here: fishing, livestock, working days. I remembered how in June of this year, when I was making my way along the road from Cape Pogibi to Goryachi Klyuchi, crossing Northern Sakhalin, in the pipe-walkers' hut in the deep taiga, the hospitable hostess of the house showed me photographs on her laptop at a meal. What a similar situation! Apparently, there is a whole type of such women in the classification table of Russian women.

I draw your attention to the presence of mosquitoes during this rather cold season for them. Alik says, citing the exact data of his observations, that they appeared on the coast on September 6, and Olga adds, explaining the reason for this, that the summer was dry, hot, up to 30 degrees in the shade, so mosquitoes, supposedly, were waiting for a favorable time.

Having eaten borscht, drunk hot coffee and warmed up, despite Alik's insistent suggestions to stay overnight (although it's still a day outside), I move on. Having embraced goodbye with my benefactors, who accompanied me to the river, I wade, not yet filled with the mighty sea tide.

I look with hope at the gloomy sky, from which the water is rapidly falling: as never before, a wet traveler wants the sun.

But still, our sun

Will appear salutary.

Gloomy people wake up,

The forests will rise burned.

And myriads of stars

Over our heads

Dispell all doubts

And all fears will be driven away.

The most difficult stage of the journey lies ahead - the crossing over the Hirano rocks and Cape Konabeyevka. I was mentally prepared for the fact that it would be very difficult, but that it would be practically murderous, I did not even suspect. There is, of course, a passage through these rocky places from below, but from the recollections of travelers and the advice of experienced people heard, it turned out that the edge of the sea can only be walked lightly. My friend and partner in the hike to the Spamberg Mountain Maxim said that Cape Konabeyevka got its name because horses were crashed here.

With about 12 kg of belongings behind me, I decide to go on top.

I reach the skeleton of a small rusted ship indicated by Alik. There is a ravine, in which an old Japanese road is hiding, leading along the top, bypassing Konabeyevka. However, I decide first to reach the nearest rocky promontory and see with my own eyes what is behind it. After walking over the huge stones for the first tens of meters, I climb the promontory and see everywhere heaps of boulders and blade-like rocks. I understand that it is not worthwhile to meddle with a heavy summit. He's pulling me down with his weight anyway, so I wouldn't fall ...

I change my shoes: I hide the sneakers, which are good only in the conditions of the seashore, in my backpack and put on my sneakers and go into the ravine.

At first, the path seems to be visible, but soon it is lost in the thickets. With a wave of your hand - come what may! - I go straight up the hill. Bamboo, painfully familiar from Mount Spamberg, bristles with hostility. A week ago, he did not let us go to its top, but now he prevents us from bypassing Krillon!

I will finally blot it to the skin. There are birches and other deciduous trees and some conifers all around. Clinging to trees, fighting bamboo. There is nothing to lose - just forward! I suppress the animal fear of the unknown in these lonely places, watered by rains and surrounded by bears. Native Sakhalin cannot destroy, but the Lord will not betray. There is no going back. True, Alik and Olya are still nearby, and you can return at any time, but returning to them will be surrender. It's hard, but you have to go. I remember that Maxim said that in comparison with the Tonino-Aniva Peninsula, Krillon are children's toys. You're kidding, buddy, the hike to Cape Aniva was a fun promenade, but then there's the matter - the struggle for every meter.

I break through to the ridge itself. Only the sea is visible. On the ridge, bamboo is shorter - it's easier to walk.

I walk along the ridge further south. I do not go - I swim, in a straight line and figuratively... Directly - because everything is wet from the rain; in a portable one - because you have to work with your hands, as when swimming. I don't even remember the vaunted old Japanese road - it is clearly overgrown with giblets. I just follow my intuition. From time to time you come across some kind of ditches under your feet, cutting through the ridge. In places they are deep, and in order to overcome them, you have to go down in them. All this - bamboo, ditches, and rain - cannot but cause despondency and murmur. Although what to grumble about? On nature? Or on himself, who cannot sit still? I would buy a ticket somewhere in Thailand and go to have fun on hot bourgeois beaches - and it would fit perfectly into the framework of the System, and the System would be happy with you. But no, you have to climb where you can easily disappear; in conditions where a person begins to be a person, where he does not live according to imposed patterns, but acts on the basis of the prevailing spontaneous circumstances! Then why grumble ?! Only forward and with the song! Look at what beauties: below - rocks, to the west - mountain ridges. Why be discouraged ?! We should be glad that you take everything from life in the very real sense of this expression. There, just below Cape Konabeyevka appeared. Unearthly beauty!

I see the ridge gradually starts to descend towards the coast. In a fit of joy, I decide to get off the ridge and start the descent early, and that was my big mistake. I "fall" to the left and work my way through the bamboo. And on the slopes, as we already know, it is much more violent than on the ridge. I make my way to the stream bed and freely walk down it in the hope that he will lead me to the seashore. However, the slope abruptly drops down, and, seeing the rustling sea far below, I understand that I am just above a high cliff. Hastened, oh, hastened with the descent!

With annoyance I climb the channel and take it to the left onto the slope of the spur, straight into the bamboo. The fact is that it is easier to go down a slope overgrown with bamboo or cedar elfin, since you go in the direction of its spread, that is, “along the wool,” according to A. Klitin; but you have to go up against the grain. In fact, I decided to bypass the Krillon peninsula from the side of Taranay precisely because, as Maxim mentioned, the bamboo on the ridge above Konabeyevka spreads in the direction of the south, which simplifies the course, because - “on the wool”.

With difficulty I crossed the slope and began to descend along the spur. Vines are mixed with bamboo. They intertwine and cling to the backpack, or they simply appear across the path, and it is impossible to step over or break them. Moving forward is incredibly difficult, right up to nausea - this is from overwork. The situation is repeated nine years ago, when the mountain jungles of Laos did not let me go back. Some beetles were added to the Lao lianas and other lush vegetation, which bit their hands, leaving an unfamiliar, twisting pain. Then I had no food or drink with me, and a deep river flowed below, less than a kilometer from me, and teased me with its freshness. And in the same way, I then made my way through the jungle and went out to the rocky cliffs. But then I was light and somehow climbed down the rocky wall and trees.

The Sakhalin jungle is not inferior to the jungle of Indochina. On the slopes of Mount Spamberg, making my way through bamboo, I expressed my wish to have a machete, but Maxim said that in this case the machete would not help. Now I was again eager to hold the machete in my hand and hack my way to the sea. Chop everything around, in a big way! So this lush vegetation wore out. On the coast there will be salvation from this murderous beauty! There are stones and sand, there are streams and waves. There you can lie back and relax, here you have to be in constant tension, both physically and mentally. To move forward somehow, I do a desperate flip-jump forward and throw myself along with my backpack. And so - three times.

Again the stream bed and again it falls down the cliff.

Again I climb through the stubble of the Sakhalin jungle, again I cross the spur. And now, finally, the third stream, the channel of which leads to the sea!

Coming out to the coast, I look back at the arch of Cape Konabeyevka, left behind, in the north, and look up. Indeed, a deadly beauty: you can stay there forever in these thickets, go crazy and surrender to the power of nature. But it is better to come out victorious and never be afraid of anything: not the elements, not bears, not dashing people.

Not without losses: a torn pocket on his trousers and scratched hands. Then, in Laos, my pants turned into shorts, and my legs and back became stripped flesh. Still, native places are more indulgent.

The clock reads six in the evening.

... I go to Cape Anastasia. There was once the village of Atlasovo. Petrovich said that from there to them - to the camp on Naychi - some man walked through the thickets above Konabeyevka in two hours (!) To call for help: they had something stalled there. I only spent more than three hours on bypassing one Konabeyevka.

I pass a waterfall, a lighthouse on a hill, I reach Cape Anastasia. It is a sharp ledge in the sea and is crowned with two rocks: one is huge in the form, as it seemed to me, of a cylinder, the second is much thinner.

In the south, across the Morzh Bay, you can see Cape Krillon with buildings on it. A little higher - air defense balls (9). At the very Cape of Anastasia there is a camp, however, the fishermen have already taken off, and there is no one in the camp. Around the buildings. Infrastructure remained from the Japanese of the times of Karafuto: a pier, vats for salting fish, etc.

It is getting dark. I cross the raging high water - the tide begins - the river Anastasia. Soak my clothes and my backpack. I light a fire (sea firewood, even damp from the rain, burns well!), Hastily dry things, cook dinner and hang up. In a damp tent I replay in my memory a day full of mystical adventures and murderous beauty.

I contemplate the distant lights of Cape Crillon and the blinking of its lighthouse: it cuts through with a rapid flash only the southern part of the night sky. Nice and monumental. The main thing is that the conditional closeness of people warms the soul. In addition, in Morzh Bay, about half the distance from me to Cape Crillon, a small boat anchored for the night. Up to the cape - 12 -15 kilometers. We have to get there by lunch tomorrow.

Day four: Cape Krillon, Japan and West Coast

In the morning I woke up early: at six or half past six. However, it took a long time to dry the soaked clothes the night before, and I did not move until half past ten.

In the process of drying my clothes, I regretted that Ryunosuke Akutagawa's little Japanese book of stories got wet again and completely collapsed because I did not store it in a plastic bag on the way. The glued book was no longer subject to new repairs, and I made the decision to burn it. The worthy care of a travel book is to be honorably devoted to the fire at the end of the world. The book of this great Japanese writer, which accompanied me on my travels across the country and across Sakhalin, triumphantly disappeared in the flames of a bonfire at Cape Anastasia.

Akutagawa's Tale on the Sheets

Scattered under the onslaught of the rains.

And only the twinkle with the guitar carried everything,

And the picture changes every day.

I walk along the coast of the Morzh Bay. The sea is without waves, which is quite unusual. There are vodka bottles lying on the shore and there are all the same household items: a refrigerator and two TVs. In the distance, ships ply the expanse of the bay. There is a rumble over the water area. It was even thought that this stinking RTG at the bottom of the sea was buzzing through the water column. After all, it was here, in Morges Bay, in 1987, according to eyewitnesses, that a helicopter dropped one of these infamous, death-emitting generators.

For a while I was accompanied by a curious seal, swimming parallel to my course, ten meters from the shore. I follow the huge fresh footprints of the clubfoot. The footprints turn to the right into the hills. And then they appear again - you see, the bear was not alone. Egorkino came to mind again (10):

Teddy bear

I walked through the forest, collected cones,

I immediately lost everything I found

Turned into a dummy

For someone there to remember

For someone there to look

For someone there to understand

I go around three rocky headlands. I come across a former all-terrain vehicle: only the chassis and pistons are left of it. The closeness of the military is already being felt.I pass the last rocky cape - Cape Kostroma, and go to the finish line - to Cape Krillon.

A dirt road torn up by the Ural leads from the coast to the hill where the buildings are located.

At about four o'clock in the afternoon, I was already at southern point Sakhalin. In the distance, Japan, dear to my heart, was blue. It is about forty kilometers to Wakkanai. They even see some kind of tower there. Mount Rishiri rises to the southwest on Japanese island with the same name.There is a frontier post on the cape, near which there is a helicopter, which flew back and forth a couple of times while I walked along the coast of Morzh Bay; an ancient but still active lighthouse, a weather station and a bunch of destroyed buildings.

The helicopter began to take off again.To my surprise, none of the military asked for my documents or even became interested in my person. Although the border zone ...

At the very edge of the cape, above the cliff, is the grave of Soviet soldiers who liberated South Sakhalin in August 1945. Every year, on May 9, jippers come here to lay wreaths.

After resting on the cape, I follow the way back towards the lighthouse. I ask the woman where the weather station is: I have business there. The meteorological station is located nearby, on the territory of the lighthouse, to which you need to climb a little.

Chickens are running around in the yard and a dog is torn apart. At the entrance stands, slightly smiling, a pretty girl Olya, to whom I walked for more than a year, and looks at me with curiosity.

- Hello! Olya? Greetings from Yegor from Tomsk.

At Egor's, I fit in for the night in June last year while hitchhiking in Russia. Egor is a frostbitten hitchhiker, traveler and bicycle adventurer. Arriving a couple of years ago in Kholmsk by ferry and finding himself for the first time on Sakhalin, he immediately went to Krilyon (after that he got all the way to Okha). Here he met Olya, who came from her native Barnaul here, to the end of the world. Last year, in Tomsk, he told me about her and asked to say hello to her on occasion.

She remembered Egor, and offered me some tea, however, only an hour later, when her shift was over. But I didn’t have time, and I had to bow. Whether I did it right or not to refuse, I don’t know; or maybe it was worth sacrificing time and finding out what made this girl leave civilization and live at the end of the earth? ..

So someone there knows

It means that someone there believes.

It means that someone there remembers.

So someone loves there.

So someone is there ...

... I go north, towards the house. I absorb delicious overripe rose hips. Mount Rishiri was transformed by the rays of the setting sun. In the northwest, the island of Moneron turned blue. The hills of the western Tatar coast of Krillon are devoid of taiga - the influence of violent winds affects. All this makes the local relief similar to Transbaikalia, with the only difference that impassable bamboo grows on the local hills, and soft fragrant herbs in the steppes of Transbaikalia. Another feature of the West Krillon coastline is the lack of firewood. Do not light a normal fire. The shore is full of seaweed, into which you can fall ankle-deep.

Something like a monument turned white on the coastal hills. From a distance, and even against the background of bare relief, it resembles something Buryat in the Trans-Baikal steppes. A little further off, a concrete pipe rises right next to the forest. I climb up the military road into the hills and come up to a monument made in a characteristic Japanese style. The grave of some noble samurai, no way? At the base there is a red plaque, on the sides of which there are two huge casings with red stars. On the plate there is an inscription that a soldier who was born in Armenia died here in 1990. Is this whole complex dedicated to the deceased? .. (11)

After a while, the massifs of the Zamirailova Golova and Kuznetsov capes appeared ahead.

At sunset, I came to the remains of the ship Liberty, which had run aground during an incredible storm in 1945. The ship fell apart into three unequal parts. At sunset, all this symbolizes the transience of human civilization and the eternity of the Sun, this center of the Divine universe. The colors of the evening sky were a soundless symphony, solemn and unearthly.

At 19.45 o'clock I noticed a place by the river, on the grass, where it was possible to set up a camp. From the fire pit and the remnants of firewood, it was clear that someone had already been there. In the twilight, when I was setting up my tent, a distant noise of a car was heard, and soon a fishing "Niva" stopped on the shore near the camp, from which two came out and began to lead a seine into the sea. I went up to them. Met: Dima and Andrey from the village of Pravda. Their camp was about five kilometers from me, where their comrades remained.

In the morning Dima and his father came for me and offered to give me a lift to Nevelsk. Moreover, it is difficult to walk along the coast to bypass Cape Kuznetsov, and it is dirty and dangerous along the bypass taiga road due to bears. It was inappropriate to refuse, and in three cars we drove north. I rode with Ivan and his hunting dog Peach (diminutive for Pers), who whined every time he saw a duck fluttering out the window. Thank you, friends, for not leaving the traveler!

… We drove through Mount Kovrizhka. I had heard before that this mountain was used by the Ainu as an impregnable military fortress. There was once a war between the Nivkhs and the Ainu on the island, so this hypothesis cannot be discarded. Dima once climbed this mountain. The fact that there is a way to the mountain is evidenced by a rope hanging along the slope. With regret I gazed at the Gingerbread we were leaving. Apparently, next time I was destined to visit the top.

We got to Shebunino, and the asphalt started.

After the bombed Shebunino and Gornozavodsk, Nevelsk appeared as a cool metropolis. They even have their own "Rublyovka": sophisticated cottages along the federal highway. “The system itself creates its own poles of negation” (Guy Debord). Civilization began, framed by colorful autumn hills.

And so ... the station - minibus - Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Have arrived.

1. Mountain over 1000 meters above sea level.

2. System - a set of existential, technical and bureaucratic conditions, stereotypes and human factors, aimed at enslavement, corruption and destruction of the individual; in other words, a matrix.

3. RTG - radioisotope thermoelectric generator. The name speaks for itself - a battery based on the use of strontium-90; designed to power beacons. RTGs were actively produced during the Soviet years. After the expiration date, these radioactive batteries required careful and careful disposal, but in the 80s and 90s. their "disposal" was in full swing in the coastal waters of Sakhalin, the Kuril Islands and other regions of the Far East. Information about the flooded places (and there are about 40 of them) is carefully hidden, but stubborn seekers of their truth discover them from space and thrust facts under the nose of those who were involved in this so-called. “Recycling”. The latter, in turn, fearing responsibility and, as a consequence, being deprived of their high positions, are fiercely denied.

4. RUZ - fish counting barrage. Another sophisticated invention of modern Russian civilization, aimed at robbing the people and the barbaric extermination of nature. RUZom blocks the river and does not allow salmon to spawn, citing the prevention of deaths. The fish caught in the net are seized and taken away by trucks in an unknown direction. Something is dull here.

5. Postmodernity - the modern era, characterized by the fact that in the first place are the mixing of styles, the combination of the unconnected, the service sector and all kinds of depravity; began at the end of the 20th century.

6. When I hitchhiked to a friend in Primorye this summer, we went to his friends - a strong peasant, such a kulak family. There they gave me so many glass jars of jams, pickles, canned food, pasta, army dry rations, etc., that I needed a jeep or at least a cart for my further movement with all this food. Naturally, most I had to leave what I received with a friend at home. XVIII - XIX centuries. It was also reported that in October 1930, the City Hall of the Year Honto (now the city of Nevelsk) erected this Kajima Kinento monument at the site of the post in honor of the Japanese explorers Karafuto. In addition, according to local stories, a Soviet military unit was stationed nearby, the tanks of which are still hidden in the hills and are ready for military operations.

This section of the report was written based on materials from archival documents and literary sources. This topic is great, therefore it is a short chronology of events and facts, this topic requires a serious scientific approach, therefore it can be considered as a synopsis-plan for future research in this direction.
... For a long time, the territory of the peninsula was an isthmus between Sakhalin and Hokkaido, i.e. was part of the huge Sakhalin-Hokkaid Peninsula. As a result of warming and cooling caused by ice ages, it changed its shape more than once, until 12 thousand years ago it finally separated from Hokkaido. It was at this time that the "obsidian paths" fell off - the paths along which the migration of the most ancient hunters for obsidian, raw material for the manufacture of tools and hunting, took place.
The Paleolithic period for Krillon is practically not described, and no settlements related to this period have been found either.
The oldest site known to archaeologists is a 5 thousand-year-old site at Cape Kuznetsova. This site belongs to the so-called Yuzhno-Sakhalin culture. The inhabitants of this culture lived, as a rule, in four-cornered dugouts, used local jasper rocks and siliceous rocks for making tools and hunting, as evidenced by the finds at these sites. As a rule, the sites of that time are located on high terraces, since the sea level at that time was quite high. These sites were also located at the mouths of rivers such as, for example, Gorbusha, Moguchi, Naycha, etc.
The economy of the ancient tribes was gradually formed. Along with gathering and hunting, the tribes along the coastline were also engaged in marine gathering and hunting for sea animals. Naturally, fishing traditions also developed. The peninsula must undoubtedly be considered a contact zone between the ancient tribes of Sakhalin and Hokkaido, in which the traditions of hunting and fishing were mixed. The culture of hunters, fishermen and sea hunters was finally formed by the middle of the 1st millennium BC. and reached its heyday by the 5th century A.D. Numerous sites along the banks and estuaries of the rivers of the peninsula belong to this period. Residents of that time made extensive use of the protective properties of the area, an example of this is the parking lot at Cape Zamirailova Golova or the natural fortress at Cape Vindis.
The settlement of the Ainu took place in several stages from Hokkaido in the south-north direction. The ancient tribes of Nivkh and Oroch, opposite, settled from north to south. Exchange and trade naturally enriched the ties of these peoples, but hostility over hunting and fishing grounds was not uncommon. At the beginning of the millennium, metal products begin to penetrate into Crillon. Being on the periphery, nevertheless, the inhabitants of Sakhalin felt the influence of the most powerful neighbors, who by that time had a state system. States such as Bohai, the Golden Empire, the Yuan and Ming Empire, expanding their borders to the east, naturally stumbled upon the island. The most noticeable was the invasion of 1286-1368 by the Manzhur tribes, it was at that time that numerous settlements were built across Sakhalin. Settlements of a serf type, the so-called fortresses - the chas on Krillon apparently belong to this period. On the Krillon Peninsula, there are currently two known. These are Siranusi on Cape Crillon and Tisia on Cape Anastasia. Goods from China in transit passed through these points in ancient Japan... In the period of the XV-XVIII centuries. the last migratory wave of the Hokkaido Ainu, pressed by the Japanese, poured into southern Sakhalin. This caused enmity with the Sakhalin clans of the Ainu, Nivkh, Oroks. It was at this time that the voyage of Europeans to the shores of Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands fell.
The expedition of the Dutchman M.G. Fries took the Krillon Peninsula for the continuation of Hokkaido, the fault of this mistake was frequent fog for this time of year. The error lasted for almost 100 years, until in 1787 the French navigator J.F. La Perouse, during his expedition, discovered the strait named after himself and described the western coast of Sakhalin. Stumbling in the north on the shoals and considering the island a peninsula, he went down to the south and anchored near Cape Maydel. During this stay, he received on board the inhabitants of the Crillon Peninsula, replenished the supply of fresh water and dispatched a small group of researchers to the shore, who climbed into the city of Crillon and examined the surroundings. In the south of Sakhalin, French names appeared that have survived to this day - Moneron, Crillon, De Langle. The last stage of history can be viewed as the stage of the confrontation between Japan and Russia. Moving from south to north and from north to south, expanding the borders of their states, Japan and Russia collided completely and irrevocably at the beginning of the 19th century. The construction of military posts and temporary fishing camps by the Japanese gave rise to a natural enmity, in which the locals found themselves a third party between a rock and a hard place. Because of its geographical proximity, Krillon was under the influence of Japan for a long time, until finally the entire territory of Sakhalin became part of Russia, but this did not prevent the Japanese from fishing in the immediate vicinity of the coast, sticking to the coast, carrying out repair work there. In addition to a few settlements in the north of the peninsula, both along the western and eastern coasts of the peninsula was uninhabited in the cold season, and when the warming was warmed, fishing was resumed from the side of the Japanese Branconniers. This continued until the Russian-Japanese War of 1904-1905.
Cape Crillon was very dangerous place for ships carrying various cargoes to the Korsakov post. In particular, on May 17, 1887, near Cape Siranusi, the Volunteer Fleet steamer "Kostroma", following from the Korsakov post in Douai, was shipwrecked. Due to inaccuracies in nautical charts, the vessel ran into stones and sank on 23 May. In this regard, in 1888 a topographic party was sent to Crillon under the leadership of S.A. Varyagin, consisting of 22 people. The geodetic coordinates of the Sony (Kuznetsov), Tissia (Anastasia) and Krillon capes were determined, the coastline was refined and the depths were measured in the La Perouse Strait. In memory of the death of "Kostroma" on the shore was built a small chapel from the wreckage of the ship, the face of Nikolai Ugodnik and the inscription "Kostroma 1887 May 17". In 1893 the sunken "Kostroma" was bought for 2000 dollars by one of the Japanese firms and by 1895 it was exported to Japan.
Naturally, the need arose to build a lighthouse on Cape Crillon for the safety of ships. The astronomical point at Cape Crillon was determined back in 1867 by Lieutenant Staritsky, and in 1883, on April 23, construction of the lighthouse at Cape Crillon began. Work on the construction of the lighthouse lasted 35 days by thirty convicts. During this time, a wooden tower with a height of 8.5 m was built, a house for the caretaker, a vegetable garden, and all this was surrounded by a fence. In addition, a powder magazine was built and a road was laid to the coast. The lighthouse was built by captain V.Z. Kazarinov. The lighthouse was equipped with a lighting apparatus with 15 argon lamps and a reflector, in addition, a 20-pound bell and a two-pound cannon were supplied. The lighthouse light was visible 15 miles away. On June 30, 1883, the lighthouse was consecrated by the bishop from Korsakov post Martimian, who had specially arrived from Blagoveshchensk.
In 1885, a 12-meter tower was built by exiled convicts specially brought to the cape in order to install it on the Stone of Danger.
The steamer "Tunguz", which arrived to help in the installation of this tower, did not cope with this work, so the tower was dismantled and taken to the Imperial Harbor in Primorye, where it was installed at the entrance to the harbor.
The most alarming time of the end of the 19th century for the inhabitants of the Krillon lighthouse was 1885, when 40 convicts fled from the Korsakov post. Most of them, along the eastern coast, reached the Krillon lighthouse, where they plundered a food warehouse, seized boats and fled by sea to Japan, where, posing as German sailors who were shipwrecked, they were cured and sent back to Sakhalin. In fact, the Krillonsky lighthouse, being the only settlement in the extreme south-west, presented a rather attractive target for fugitive convicts. In September 1885, another group of convicts fled from the Korsakov post, killed a senior warden and his assistant near Cape Ventos (in memory of this villainous act, the cape was renamed Kanabeyev).
On August 7, 1894, construction began on the capital building at Cape Crillon for the lighthouse. The construction was carried out by foremen Shipulin and Yakovlev with the help of 25 Korean workers. Red bricks were imported from Japan, Oregon pine from America. The lighthouse was to be equipped with a lighting fixture from the company "Barbier et Bernad". By August 1, 1896, all work was completed. The building was built and combined with living quarters, a new siren was installed for signaling in foggy weather, a new bell weighing 488 kg. This is how it has remained to this day, except that the living quarters have been converted into utility rooms, the bell was removed in 1980 and is located in military unit 13148 in the town of Korsakov, instead of it there is a reserve bell of Japanese production from the lighthouse at Veslo in the lighthouse. that on Kunashir.
On September 22, 1895, Admiral S.O. Makarov visited the Krillonsky lighthouse, where a graduated rail was installed - a fugstick to measure fluctuations of water masses in the La Perouse Strait. Even earlier, in 1893, a meteorological station of the 2nd category of the 1st class was built near the lighthouse. At the end of 1896, a complete solar eclipse specially sent for this by an expedition led by Major General E.V. Maidel.
The beginning of the twentieth century was marked by the beginning of the Russian-Japanese war in 1904. The team of the Krillon lighthouse was strengthened to 15 people instead of 8. The telegraph line from the Krillon lighthouse to the Korsakov post was built on September 30, 1904, despite the fact that the question of its construction was raised in 1893. But there was little sense from this line due to the fact that the lighthouse team used to be intoxicated with the lighthouse keeper, practically the caretaker's duties were performed by his 12-year-old daughter, who was busy with warehouses and the crew's contentment.
On April 25, Second Lieutenant Pyotr Mordvinov arrived at Krillon at the head of a detachment of 40 vigilantes and 1 non-commissioned officer. This detachment carried out the repair of the telegraph line in the section of Cape Crillon - the Uryum River, as well as the destruction of Japanese fisheries and kungas. The detachment destroyed the pirate base on Moneron Island, sunk and destroyed a large number of kungas and schooners. The search for the detachment by the Japanese was not crowned with success, they constantly eluded the enemy, the beginning of hostilities on Sakhalin coincided with the return of a detachment of vigilantes to the cape, and in 2 days they prepared the defense of the lighthouse.
However, on June 26, a Japanese landing party consisting of the cruisers Suma, Chiyoda and 4 destroyers approached the lighthouse. Seeing the huge advantage of the Japanese over the detachment, the Mordvinovs were given the command to retreat in full force, leaving the lighthouse. Keeper P. Dem'yantsevich and sailor Burov remained on the shirt, the latter tried to burn down the lighthouse, but the supervisor, because of his cowardice, prevented him from doing it for fear of being punished for this by the Japanese. Both were captured by the enemy. The second lieutenant's detachment, having completed a 7-day march, during which 8 people lagged behind (out of 54 people), reunited with the detachment of Captain Dairsky in the village of Petropavlovskoye, holding out in the forests for a month and a half and on August 17 was completely destroyed by the Japanese in the upper reaches of the Naiba river ... This was the end of the Krillon detachment under the command of Second Lieutenant Pyotr Mordvinov.
Period 1905-0945 on the Krillon peninsula is marked by the appearance of the first permanent settlements. The main type of settlement on the peninsula is similar to the Japanese settlement system in Hokkaido. At the mouths of large rivers, as a rule, there was a large settlement, and a road with a chain of farms went into the depths of the peninsula along the river valley. The main occupation of the local population, consisting mainly of immigrants from Japan, remained fishing, but timber harvesting (eastern coast) and coal mining (western coast) were already mixed with it in the north. In addition, the population was actively engaged in gardening. During this period, at least 50 settlements, most of which were farmsteads.
Large settlements on the scale of the peninsula existed on both coasts, had post offices, schools, shops. Immediately after the capture of South Sakhalin, the Japanese began to break through the road to the Krillonsky lighthouse south along the eastern coast. The lighthouse itself was repaired, next to it was built a meteorological station of a very original construction, a building with a rainwater intake. This weather station began operations in July 1909. In 1914, a lighthouse complex was built at Cape Soni (Kuznetsova). On the eastern coast of the peninsula, apparently at the same time, 2 towers were built in Kirillovo and at Cape Anastasia.
In August 1945, the 2nd battalion of the 25th infantry regiment was stationed at Cape Crillon. The Soviet paratroopers who landed to liberate the southwestern tip of Sakhalin met with fierce resistance from the battalion. Unfortunately, the names of the paratroopers are unknown, as well as their number resting in a mass grave on the southernmost point of Sakhalin.
At the end of the war, the lighthouse was repaired and put into operation. 1945 to 1947 the repatriation of the population from the Krillon Peninsula was carried out. In 1947 the Japanese geographical names were replaced by Russians. Russian settlers settled on the peninsula, settling in the same villages. Japanese farms were looted and turned into hunting lodges, some of them burned down, gradually all this fell into decay, collapsing and falling apart. The central settlements survived longer, but they were also closed by decrees in 1962, 1964, 1965, 1978, 1982. The longest "lasted" the most large settlements Atlasovo, Crossroads, Khvostovo. At the moment, the same picture exists on the peninsula as 100 years ago, a lighthouse and a meteorological station are functioning at Cape Crillon, and military and border units are stationed. Fishing camps are scattered all over the eastern and western shores during the fishing season, and by the fall they will curtail their work. Along the western coast to the south of Shebunino there are 2 border outposts "Crossroads" and "Extreme", occupied not so much with the protection of the border as with survival, along the east coast south of Kirillovo there is one at Cape Anastasia, the position of which is the most difficult due to isolation ...
The eastern coast and the watershed of the South Kamyshovy ridge are the boundaries of the regional nature reserve "Krilyon Peninsula". The valleys of the Ulyanovka, Kura, Naycha, Uryum rivers, as before 100 years ago, are used for cattle grazing, only now not the Korsakov post, but for the Taranay state farm. The prospects are opening to put it mildly sad ...

http: /www.sakhalin.ru/rover

On May 9, 1952, on the basis of 41, 42, 43 radio technical posts, the 39 radio technical regiment was formed. The regiment was formed by the former commander of the 116th separate radio engineering battalion, Major Varlamov Dmitry Fedoseevich
In November 1953, the 39th Air Surveillance, Alert and Communications regiment was fully formed according to the state with the deployment of units in various settlements of Sakhalin, one of which was Cape Krillon
The annual holiday of the 39th RTP was established to commemorate the day of formation - 9th May

In 1957, on the basis of the directive of the headquarters of the country's air defense forces, the 39th radio technical air defense regiment was transferred to new states from August 1, 1957, including 212 ORLR (Cape Crillon) as part of one P-20 radar, one P-10 radar, one radar P-8s. 1960 - 212 ORLR with the location of Cape Krillon as part of one P-30 radar, one P-12 radar and a non-standard P-10 radar.
1961 - at 212 ORLR (Cape Krillon): P-30, P-12, P-10, P-14 and PRV-10 radars.
Since 1958, the 212 ORLR (Cape Crillon) began to be noted by the command of the 39th regiment, as one of the best units in the regiment, according to the results of a comprehensive audit.
In 1959 - the best unit of the regiment: 212 ORLR (Krillon) - P-10 crew, head of the radar station - Lieutenant Grisyuk, P-20 radar crews of sergeants Ivanyuta, Lutsenko.
In 1962 - excellent departments: RLR Krillon - 4th department.
In 1964 - in combat and political training, Krillon took the first place in RLR - company commander Captain Rudchenko M.A., political deputy lieutenant Korinsky V.F. The company was awarded the Challenging Red Banner.

Since 1975, the Krillon company became the Atlasovo company.

In 2000 - based on the results of combat training, RLR Krillon took II place - company commander Captain Alisov
In 2001, based on the results of combat training, RLR Krillon took III place - company commander Captain Alisov
In 2002 - according to the results of the first period, RLR Krillon took III place - company commander Captain Nizyaev
In 2003 - based on the results of combat training, RLR Krillon took III place - company commander Captain Nizyaev
In 2006 - based on the results of combat training, RLR Krillon took II place - company commander Major Tribunsky
In 2007, according to the results of the winter period, RLR Krillon took 2nd place - company commander Major Tribunsky

Day 1.

All participants meet at the railway station. We get on the bus and go to Aniva district to the mouth of the Uryum river. We will wade the river, knee-deep, sometimes waist-deep. For the crossing, we change into the shoes that we took for the water crossings. After the crossing, we change our shoes and walk along the forest dirt road. Then we go to the coast in Kirillovo. Further, our path goes along the sandy-pebble coast.

We will stop for lunch on the Tambovka river.

After Tambovka, focusing on the low tide, we pass the clamps. During low tide, the coast opens near the rocks and you can walk without getting wet.

We set up the camp at the mouth of the Maksimkina river. The attendants prepare a delicious dinner. We will get to know each other near the fire.

Daily mileage: 21 km.

Day 2.

In the morning, the attendants prepare breakfast according to the layout and duty schedule. After breakfast we pack up and set off. On the way, we will enter a chalk canyon, where an 8-meter waterfall falls. And in the rocks there are nests of swifts.

On the Kura river we will get up for lunch. There is a farm at the mouth of the river, and you can see horses grazing on the seashore.

After lunch we will go to the Moguchi river. Walking along the sandy-pebble beach. Sometimes passing near the rocks along a stone path, as if a rock of glass on the ground, forming a path. An interesting rock will meet along the way, popularly called the Dragon. The multi-colored rocks are piled up with the muzzle of a dragon, with an open mouth and hollows for the eyes.

Another ford across the Naicha river. A few more kilometers along the sand and camp on the Moguchi river. Hot supper. Overnight stay.

Daily mileage: 22 km

Day 3.

After breakfast we collect the camp and set off. The transition will be tricky today. We'll have to bypass Cape Kanabeev on bamboo. The movement will be very difficult. Walking 5 km will take 4 hours.

Cape Kanabeev is very beautiful. At the very promontory there is a stone arch, to which a rocky terrace of one meter wide leads. We will definitely go radially for inspection and photos. An understanding of security is required because the depth of the sea near the cape immediately reaches 5 meters.

Today's day will end at the abandoned camp of Cape Anastasia (uninhabited village of Atlasovo). In the sea opposite the cape there are two cliffs surrounded by an old ruined Japanese pier. The torii, the Shinto sacred gateway to the temple, facing east towards the rising sun, were once erected on the largest rock by the Japanese.

The Anastasia river flows near the place to spend the night. You can arrange laundry, washes.

200 meters from the camp, a beautiful 20-meter waterfall falls on the coast.

Hot supper. Overnight stay.

Kilometers of the day: 12 km.

Day 4.

The day is intended to rest after the crossing. Do your laundry, dry, wash and just relax. Relax at Cape Anastasia with soft sunrises and fiery sunsets.

Day 5.

In the morning, after breakfast, we pack up the camp and leave. Today we are going all the way to Cape Crillon.

The path is beautiful, but it has several boulders. When passing such clamps, you should be careful, take your time and help the participants. In some places, you may need help in transferring the backpacks first, and after the participants pass lightly. Boys are active and lend a helping hand. Along the way, many waterfalls await us, from small to large, from dry to a thin stream to powerful water streams. For lunch we will stand on a house near the waterfall.

After lunch, a few kilometers will remain and we are finally in the bay of Cape Crillon! We set up camp and cook dinner. We also collect passports and the instructor goes to celebrate the group at the border guards.

Attention! Cellular communication on Crillon - Japanese, eats up the entire balance before dialing a number.

Tomorrow we will have a day trip and excursion trips along the cape, to places of glory, and military fortifications, a lighthouse and a monument, underground passages and cannons.

Daily mileage: 19 km.

Day 6.

Afternoon. The day is dedicated to acquaintance with the history of the extreme point of Sakhalin Island. The whole day is planned for radial exits in order to cover as much of the historical sights associated with the period of the Russo-Japanese War as possible.

Today we are in no hurry. We sleep to the fullest. After a late breakfast, we will prepare a lunchtime snack and go for a walk and see the sights of Krillon.

Let's start our tour with a monument to the soldiers who died during the liberation of Sakhalin and the Southern Kuriles. 7 paratroopers are buried in this mass grave. Next, let's go to inspect the nowadays non-residential buildings, which were built by the Japanese and then the Russians, everything was mixed on a small piece of land. Let's climb, take a look, and hurry to the fortified area. After all, Cape Crillon is one large fortified area, along which you can walk for weeks in search of military pillboxes, underground passages, trenches, cannons. On the way, we will climb to a large plateau overgrown with bamboo, where the cannons hid in the thick tall grass. A little further off you can see the visor of the command post, here we are already inside.

The walls and steps were lined by the Japanese with natural stone, the masonry has survived to this day, as good as new.

Let's go upstairs and in front of us the entire La Perouse Strait, at a glance. We go further, here in the underground shelter there is a whole cannon, all the levers are still in working order.

Below you can see a hole that goes underground, let's go down, and a whole underground world will open up in front of us. Many rooms, manholes. Passages, stairs and we are again at the top, already at the other end of the peninsula, again we go down, again up and again at the other end, along the road we meet empty boxes of shells, old bunks, various instruments, sensors, counters on the walls, yeah, sure You can walk here for weeks to examine everything and find all the loopholes. We creep out into the white light and return to the camp. In the camp we will have a bite to eat and again go out for another walk along the cape. In good weather, you can see Japan from Krillon. And we go to the edge of the cape, and suddenly we are lucky and we will see Japan. First, Rebun Island will open before your eyes, and then Hokkaido Island. With binoculars, you can see windmills that glow with multi-colored lights.

We return to the camp to cook dinner. And while discussing today we enjoy hot food and delicious tea with bagels.

Daily mileage of radial exits: 6 km.

Day 7.

In the morning, after breakfast, we pack our things, put on our backpacks and again set off on the road to examine the underground passages and "study" military equipment. Let's go to the huge cannon, and in the bamboo hid behind the Soviet tanks. We will examine new manholes, trenches, find Japanese washbasins, which have been preserved in excellent condition.

Further along the road, we will look at the remains of the Shiranushi post. The fast was founded by the Japanese clan Matsumae from the island of Hokkaido, presumably in the 1750s, in the 1850s the importance of fasting began to diminish and the fast in Shiranushi was abolished, and the history of fasting ended. There is information that in 1925, 150 people lived in the village of Siranusi, there were 36 houses. Now at the site of the post, you can find many objects from different times, belonging to both the Japanese and the Russians, a pedestal from the monument to Kajima Kinento, a platform from the building of a Japanese post, earthen ramparts, which were most likely defensive in nature, concrete structures, firing points of the 2nd world war.

Above the post are the ruins of a crab factory and coastal batteries from IS-3 tanks. By the way, the tanks are mothballed and are in excellent condition.

And now a "ghost ship" appears on the horizon from the fog. Handsome, or rather all that remains of him. The ship is torn into three pieces. This is the dry cargo ship "Luga", which has been lying here for more than 65 years on the shallows. Seagulls and cormorants took a fancy to the remains of the ship and arranged a bird market on it.

By the fall of 1947, the dry-cargo steamer Luga was prepared for towing to Vladivostok, and then further to Shanghai for overhaul. The steamer Pyotr Tchaikovsky was instructed to tow the Luga, but they lost time and began towing at the end of October. "Pyotr Tchaikovsky" and "Luga" were caught by a violent typhoon near the La Perouse Strait. The tug tore and "Luga" was thrown onto the Krillon peninsula between the capes of Maydel and Zamirailov's head. The damage to "Luga" was so great that the repair was impractical and they did not try to remove it from the shallows, that's how it became a home for seagulls and cormorants

Lunch break and photo for memory. And again on the road.

Many bear tracks will accompany us on the way. Previously, there was a nature reserve on the peninsula, hunting and fishing in these collapses was prohibited, so bears bred here. We take out pipes and play, indicating that we are going here.

For the night we stand on the Zamirailovka river. Hot supper.

Daily mileage: 14km.

Day 8.

In the morning after breakfast we set up the camp, put on already lightweight backpacks and set off. Today, the path partially passes along the pass, skirting Cape Kuznetsov, since there are no passages there. The road through the pass is in good condition and will not be difficult to cross.

Cape Kuznetsov is one of the natural monuments O. Sakhalin, its name was given in honor of Captain 1st Rank D.I.Kuznetsov, who commanded the first detachment that sailed to the Far East in 1857 to protect the Russian borders.

We leave to the farm. We stop for lunch.

During lunch we will go to look at a Japanese column with hieroglyphs. There are many such columns left across Sakhalin, it shows the height above sea level.

After lunch we continue our way to Cape Vindis, where we will set up a camp. Dinner. Overnight stay.

Daily mileage: 17 km.

Day 9.

In the morning, after breakfast, we go to the town of Kovrizhka.

Mount Kovrizhka got its name from its shape in the form of a cake, it is located on Cape Vindis. Translated from the Ainu language, it means "bad dwelling." The cape is located 35 km. from the village Shebunino, Kovrizhka itself rises above sea level at an altitude of about 78 m, has an almost ideal round shape with a diameter of more than 100 m. The absolutely flat summit of Kovrizhka is known for the fact that archaeological sites of ancient people were found on it. There are versions that this natural building was used by the Sakhalin aborigines as a fortress, where they escaped from the invasion of strangers, perhaps that is why the name "bad dwelling" is.

The ascent to Kovrizhka is very steep, it can only be reached by a rope pulled by kind people. Overcoming fear, let's go upstairs and a dizzying view will open before us! Almost the entire South Kamyshevy Ridge is visible on one side, and on the other, Cape Kuznetsov.

Lunch and dinner at the camp. Overnight stay.

Day 10.

In the morning after breakfast we pack up the camp, put on our backpacks and set off.

Today we will go through an old abandoned village. Which impresses with its preserved houses on the seashore in the wilderness, where there are no means of communication.

On the way, another ford of the Pereputka river. During rains, the water level rises strongly, which can create an obstacle. But we have already passed many rivers and streams, and this river is not an obstacle to us!

We will have lunch on the river and continue our way to the Brusnichka river. The path goes along the sandy beach.

We set up a camp at the mouth of the Brusnichka River. Dinner. Overnight stay.

Daily mileage: 16 km

Day 11.

Breakfast. Travel fees. Day of departure from the hike. The last push. It is a pity to part with the beauty of Crillon. Many places unknown and unexplored by us are left behind. So there is a reason to return!

A bus will be waiting in Shebunino that will take us to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.

Daily mileage: 22 km.

Day 12.

Extra day. In case of bad weather, hot flashes and fatigue of the participants. In case of a good pace of the route, it will be used as an additional day or as an additional day to distribute the mileage according to the forces of the participants.

CARPET!

On August 23, 2011, six people (myself, Dima, Galya, Anton and two Kirill) set off by morning bus to Nevelsk, then to Shebunino from where our journey will begin to Cape Krilyon, the southernmost point of Sakhalin Island. In two days we have to approach Mount Kovrizhka, where four more people from our group (Lena, Alexey, Vika and Sergey) will join us. Ahead of 10 days of the hike, sea, sun and no civilization, everyone is in excellent mood, let's hit the road !!!

We reached Kovrizhka without obstacles, most of all they were afraid that we would not cross the Pereputka River, in the rains and tides it rises so that even cars cannot pass. But to our delight, we crossed the river calmly, well, after all, two days were not without incident, Kirill's knees hurt and he practically could not walk. Do not leave him alone, Dima put a backpack on Kiryukhin's shoulders and walked slowly towards our goal. Puffing, puffing with big stops, we nevertheless reached the goal in time, but ours are going, joy knew no bounds. At the general meeting, we decide that tomorrow we need to send Kirill home by passing transport, we set up camp at the foot of the mountain, while everyone is collecting firewood for the fire. wash and cool off from the mercilessly scorching sun. In the meantime, the fire is burning, the tents are set up, you can start dinner, the guys brought home food with them, oh bliss !!!

It was beginning to get dark, but we terribly wanted to visit the top of Kovrizhki. Mount Kovrizhka got its name because of its shape in the form of a cake; it is located on Cape Vindis in translation from the Ainu language, as "bad dwelling", where does this name come from? The cape is located 35 km. from the village Shebunino, Kovrizhka itself rises above sea level at an altitude of about 78 m, has an almost ideal circular shape with a diameter of more than 100 m. The absolutely flat summit of Kovrizhka is known for the fact that archaeological sites of ancient people were found on it. There are versions that this natural building was used by the Sakhalin aborigines as a fortress, where they escaped from the invasion of strangers, which may be why the name "nasty dwelling" is.

The ascent to Kovrizhka is very steep, it can only be reached by a rope pulled by kind people. Overcoming fear, we climbed up and a dizzying view opened up in front of us, almost the entire South Kamyshevy ridge is visible from one side, and from the other Cape Kuznetsov, where we will go tomorrow morning.

It has already completely darkened, so take a photo as a souvenir and begin our descent down. Oh Gods!!! Descending was even more terrifying than climbing upward, groping in the dark, you couldn't see where to put your foot, stones were falling from under your feet, but you couldn't stay above. Dima insures the girls from above, and Sergei encourages him with his jokes and jokes, and now his feet touched the firm and level ground. Hooray!!! We went downstairs and Galyunya and I went to the "bathhouse" that the guys had built. "Bathhouse" was a success. Washed up, poured home in tents, tomorrow morning on the way to their dream, to Krillon !!!

Cape Kuznetsov

The next morning we packed up and set off. Alexei loaded backpacks and some of our team members into the car and drove towards Cape Kuznetsov to negotiate about sending Kirill home and parking the car, while we set off on foot lightly. It’s beauty, the sea is splashing, the sun is warming (it’s not baking yet), here is a cormorant perched on a pebble, very close to letting us in and doesn’t fly away, well, all the cormorant is now a model and the hero of our photo albums.

Coming closer to Cape Kuznetsov, houses appear, we noticed an Orthodox cross-church !!!

It is unusual to see a church at such a distance from civilization. And we freeze with delight, what a stunning picture in front of us, a herd of horses grazing on the seashore, I have never seen such a miracle in my life, and which there are only red, and white, and black, and in a speck and in a bull's-eye. An extraordinary beauty, this picture still stands before my eyes. At one time, 50 Yakut pedigree horses were brought here for breeding. They also say that ostriches live on the territory of the farm, but we, unfortunately, have not seen them. But horses ……….

Cape Kuznetsova is one of the natural monuments of about. Sakhalin, its name was given in honor of Captain 1st Rank DI Kuznetsov, who commanded the first detachment that sailed to the Far East in 1857 to protect the Russian borders. We bypass the cape, since there are impassable passages, we turn onto the road leading through the pass, Kiryukha went to see us off, as today he is in a car that will go from the farm and go home to treat his knees. Bye, Kiryukha, see you in the city. Well, we, in the composition of nine people, are recovering further. Not far from the village, we came across a Japanese column with hieroglyphs, there are many such columns left across Sakhalin, the height above sea level is indicated on it.
The road through the pass is in good condition, we go into the forest and it becomes creepy for us, there are a lot of bears in these parts, there used to be a nature reserve on the peninsula, hunting and fishing in this collapse was prohibited, so bears bred here. We take out the pipes and play, that there is urine, the head is already spinning. The sun beats down mercilessly, backpacks pull off the shoulders, and even a whole bunch of gadflies have flown in, even the repellents do not help, they drain from the heat along with sweat.

Well, that is the end of the road and then we stumble upon a fresh trail of a club-footed bear, we imagined how he skidded when he heard our pipes. We finally went out to the seashore and made a halt and lunch.

Shipwreck.

We dined, rested and on our way. On the left there are green hills, somewhere there are bears sniffing sweetly, on the right the sea is blue, ahead is a foggy horizon, silence and only the sound of the surf is heard, quiet and grace, only the sun beats down so that it is hot to breathe. Galyunya wrapped herself up in an olympic jacket, hiding from the sun, the poor little one sticks out.

Sergei is overwhelmed with emotions and he scratches on the sand "AHRINET" and everything is in this word !!!

A "ghost ship" appears on the horizon because of the fog, and it gives me goosebumps. We come closer and now he is a handsome man, or rather everything that is left of him. The ship is torn into three pieces - an eerie sight. As I later read this dry cargo ship "Luga", it has been lying here for more than 65 years on the shallows. Seagulls and cormorants took a fancy to the remains of the ship and arranged a bird market on it. By the fall of 1947, the dry-cargo steamer Luga was prepared for towing to Vladivostok, and then further to Shanghai for overhaul. The steamer Pyotr Tchaikovsky was instructed to tow the Luga, but they lost time and began towing at the end of October. "Pyotr Tchaikovsky" and "Luga" were caught by a violent typhoon near the La Perouse Strait. The tug tore and "Luga" was thrown onto the Krillon peninsula between the capes of Maydel and Zamirailov's head. The damage to "Luga" was so great that the repair was impractical and they did not try to remove it from the shallows, that's how it became a home for seagulls and cormorants

A small resting place, a photo for memory and again on the road.

Night guest.
More and more often we come across bear tracks of different sizes and sizes, bear trails can be seen on the hills.

It's late afternoon, it's time to look for a place to camp. We decided to stop near a small lake. Well, the tree-sticks were not taken into account, that the camp was set up near Mishya's path, or rather, they understood it later.

Lesha and I went to the lake, I wash the dishes, Lesha fetch water. And so Alexey decided to take some water from the stream that flowed down from the hill. He went into the grass, and less than a minute, Lesha jumped out of the bushes, as if scalded. “What happened?” - I ask, he tells me “Look”. I watched the grass sway, the bear leaves and goes quietly, even if the twig crunches, I always wondered how such a colossus walks so quietly ??? Well, that was not all …….

After supper, we dispersed to the tents, I slept with Galya in the tent. Through a dream I hear as if someone touched a stretch from the tent, I open my eyes and a sharp smell of dog hits my nose, and near the tent someone sniffs everything ... ... bear, already the blood froze in my veins with fear. I wake up Galya, I say "The bear has come", Galya muttered something, turned over on the other side and continued to sleep, this is our Galyunya who sleeps where he will lie down, sit down and no bears will wake her up, and I lay all night without a wink of sleep and breathing was afraid. In the morning I dared to go out only when I heard the voices of the guys who had already woken up and were busy with the housework. I walked around the tent and as if the bear's footprints were on the sand, so it really came, I didn't dream. More than one night I didn’t close my eyes on this trip.

Museum under open air... Crillon.

Morning. According to our calculations, in two hours we should come to Krillon. The morning turned out to be foggy, so we did not immediately notice the outlines of Krillon on the horizon. Well, what was our joy when we realized that because of the fog we could see the towers and the lighthouse of the Krillon Peninsula.

Cape Krillon is the southernmost point of Sakhalin Island. The name was given by the French navigator Jean-François de La Perouse in honor of the French general Louis Balbes de Crillon. In the north it is connected by a narrow but steep isthmus with the Krillon Peninsula, in the west it is washed by the Sea of ​​Japan, in the east by the Aniva Bay of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk. From the south - La Perouse Strait, separating Sakhalin and Hokkaido islands. Crillon is called the "Open Air Museum" and it is not for nothing that this small piece of land received such a name. Now on Crillon there is an operating frontier post, a weather station and a lighthouse. Well, let's start in order.

"Century mark"
A car is coming to meet us, it was the head of the outpost who was in a hurry to warn us to check in at the outpost, such is the order here, after all, a frontier post, so those wishing to visit Crillon do not forget to take their passport with them.
First of all, we go to look for the "Century Mark", which was carved on the coastal rock by the famous Admiral Makarov. On September 22, 1895, Rear Admiral Makarov ordered to install a gauge-gauge in the form of a rail with graduations on Krillon, it is installed to observe and accurately determine the water level in the sea. But the tide stock was broken by the movement of ice, and to eliminate this shortcoming Makarov ordered to carve a “century mark” on the rock, seven horizontal notches were carved under the inscription, numbered in Roman numerals from bottom to top from 4 to 10 (Tanya, these Roman numbers must be written). Over time, water has done its job and now only the word "mark" is visible on the rock. We found the mark and jumped on the boulders and hoisted our backpacks and move on. Further, our path goes along a steep path that leads up.

Lighthouse.
We went upstairs, threw off our backpacks and to the lighthouse. A wooden dilapidated staircase leads to the lighthouse, we climbed it and here we have a handsome man made of red brick, but he was not always like that, the lighthouse was originally built from logs. The construction of the first lighthouse on Krillon began on May 13, 1883, 30 exile carriages and the crew of the schooner "Tungus" took part in the construction of the lighthouse, with the help of which the rafts from logs were towed, the work lasted 35 days. A wooden tower with a height of 8.5 m was erected, a house for the caretaker, a barracks, a bathhouse, a vegetable garden was planned. The lighting apparatus with silver-plated reflectors is equipped with 15 argan lamps. For the production of fog signals, a two-pound signal cannon and a 20-pound bell are installed on the lighthouse. The first keeper of the lighthouse was the sailor Ivan Kryuchkov.
In 1894, construction of a new lighthouse began on Cape Crillon, next to the old building made of red bricks brought from Japan. The construction was carried out by the paratroopers Shipulin, Yakovlev and 25 Korean workers. The work was supervised by engineer-lieutenant colonel K.I. Leopold, who built several lighthouses on the Black Sea. On August 1, 1896, a lighting device was installed at the Crillon lighthouse, manufactured by the French company "Barbier and Benard" in Paris. A new pneumatic siren with a kerosene engine has been installed in a room located at the southernmost point of Cape Crillon. A special signal cannon of the 1867 model was located next to the siren building. A backup "fog bell" was also installed here, which, in the event of a malfunction of the siren, was supposed to give signals during fog. During the Soviet era, the lighthouse was refitted with electric lamps, but the bulk of the French lighting fixture remained unchanged. A new cinder block house was built on the cape for the lighthouse attendants. The bell was removed in 1980. Until the end of the 1990s, there was a Japanese bell on the cape. According to some reports, the bell was taken out for scrap metal. The further fate of the Japanese bell is unknown. Currently, the lighthouse is still active.

Borders
After inspecting the lighthouse, went downstairs, the guys went to the monument to the soldiers who died during the liberation of Sakhalin,

and we, exhausted by the heat, remained to wait for them near the backpacks, Galyunya climbed under the cart, into the shade and sniffed sweetly.

And here the guys returned and we all went to check in at the border guards. We were greeted very warmly, while the head of the outpost told us that while they were rewriting the data of passports, four little worlds coexist on the cape: border guards, a meteorological station, a beacon that lives alone in the whole two-story building and occupies any apartment in it that we liked (the house is empty, in it now no one lives except for the lighthouse) and fishermen. They all live independently of each other and do not meddle in the affairs of their neighbors. Said if the beacon is in good location spirit, then maybe he will lead us to the lighthouse and show it from the inside. He told that it is possible to take pictures and what is undesirable, he offered to charge cameras and phones. By the way, the cellular communication on Crillon Japanese eats up the entire balance without having time to dial the number. They showed us a comfortable place to spend the night and gave us a tank of water, because on Krillon there is a problem with springs and rivers, and the nearest spring is very far away. It was on such a positive note that we said goodbye to the hosts of the outpost and set off to set up a camp.

Catacombs.
The camp was organized quickly. We fell from fatigue, heat and grated mazoles, the people decided today not to go anywhere, and I, Dima and Kirill still decided not to waste time, because tomorrow we are already returning home at lunchtime, but still take a walk along the cape. They began their detour from the monument to the soldiers who died during the liberation of Sakhalin and the Southern Kuriles. 7 paratroopers are buried in this mass grave. Then we went to inspect the nowadays non-residential buildings, which were built by the Japanese and then the Russians, everything was mixed on a small piece of land. We climbed, took a look, and now we are in a hurry to the fortified area. After all, Cape Crillon is one large fortified area, along which you can walk for weeks in search of military pillboxes, underground passages, trenches, cannons. On the way, we climbed to a large plateau overgrown with bamboo and where is what to look for in such thickets ??? And here is the first find - an inverted cannon, then another one. A little further off you can see the visor of the command post, here we are already inside.

The walls and steps were lined by the Japanese with natural stone, the masonry has survived to this day, as good as new.

We went upstairs and in front of us the entire La Perouse Strait, at a glance, already takes our breath away from the emotions that overwhelmed me. We go further, here in the underground shelter there is a whole cannon, they tried to turn the levers and oh, miracle, they are still in working order. We play like little children !!!

Below you can see a manhole, which goes underground, we go down, and here is a whole underground world. Many rooms, manholes. Passages, stairs and we are again at the top, already at the other end of the peninsula, again we go down, again up and again at the other end, along the road we meet empty boxes of shells, old bunks, various instruments, sensors, counters on the walls, yeah, sure You can walk here for weeks to examine everything and find all the loopholes. We crawled out into the white light, it is already getting dark, it’s time to camp, well, how you don’t want to leave, how you want to explore the whole Krillon up and down. We returned to the camp, had a snack. But for today we have another excursion planned. In good weather, you can see Japan from Krillon, but the weather was excellent, so we go to the edge of the cape, and suddenly we are lucky and we will see Japan. And we saw her, right like this with the naked eye, at first the island of Rebun rose in front of us.

Then we saw Hokkaido. Dima took binoculars with him and through them we saw the windmills that glow with multi-colored lights, it's great how !!! It was completely dark and the lighthouse came on. And also a local resident, little piggy Manka, came to visit us. She ran up to us, fell apart and scratched my belly, rolled her eyes with pleasure, she was so funny, she was grunting.

The post of Shiranushi.
In the morning we packed our things and again went to inspect the underground passages and "study" military equipment. We came across a huge cannon, found Soviet tanks in the bamboo,

examined new manholes, trenches, came across Japanese washbasins, which were preserved in excellent condition.

I already said that you can wander around Crillon for weeks, but it was time for us to return home. Farewell look at Krillon, I promise myself that I will definitely return here to continue looking for new underground passages. On the way back we dropped in to look at the remains of the post of Shiranushi. The fast was founded by the Japanese clan Matsumae from the island of Hokkaido, presumably in the 1750s, in the 1850s the importance of fasting began to diminish and the fast in Shiranushi was abolished, and the history of fasting ended. There is information that by 1925 150 people lived in the village of Siranusi, there were 36 houses. Now at the site of the post, you can find many objects from different times, belonging to both the Japanese and the Russians, a pedestal from the monument to Kajima Kinento, a platform from the building of a Japanese post, earthen ramparts, which were most likely defensive in nature, concrete structures, firing points of the 2nd world war.

Above the post are the ruins of a crab factory and coastal batteries from IS-3 tanks. By the way, the tanks are mothballed and are in excellent condition.
A car drove us to the farm, which was driving from Crillon to Shebunino, a herd of horses met us, I will never forget this beauty, sea, rocks and horses !!!
We were at home two days later.

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In the 1950s, at the southernmost tip of Cape Crillon, there was a small monument made of natural stone and erected, according to the recollections of old-timers, in 1945. By the decision of the Sakhalin Regional Executive Committee of March 9, 1971, No. 98, the monument was placed under state protection.

Part of the route runs along the territory of the zoological natural monument of regional significance "Cape Kuznetsova". The territory of the natural monument is the only year-round rookery for sea lions and seals in the south of Sakhalin. The valley of the Kuznetsovka River is home to many rare plant species and a nesting site for rare bird species. The main objects of protection: rookeries of sea lions and seals; nesting places for rare bird species; habitats of rare and endemic plant species listed in the Red Data Books Russian Federation and the Sakhalin region

Security mode: water route does not pass through a specially protected natural area; in case of organizing a walking tour, it is necessary to familiarize oneself with the regime of protection of the natural monument of regional significance “Cape Kuznetsova”.

Route description

The route is very popular. Among Sakhalin tourists, it is interesting for pedestrians, jeepers and water tourists traveling on motor-sailing ships or sea kayaks. The route is replete with a large number of capes, difficult-to-pass pressure areas, complicated by the lack of settlements. This route is especially interesting if you observe the shores of the Krillon Peninsula from the sea, traveling on small boats.

The route can start from the village of Shebunino, which can be reached by vehicles of any cross-country ability. First amazing place that the traveler sees from the sea is Cape Vindis and Mount "Kovrizhka", which is located on the cape and is a rock with a flat top and steep, almost sheer walls. From a distance, the cape looks like an island: when viewed from the north and south it is trapezoidal, and from the west it is square. Around this rock you can see many large stones of different shapes and types, crabs and seals are also found here. Several archaeological sites of ancient people were found on the flat top of the cape (78 meters high).

The name Cape Vindis is translated from the Ainu language as "bad dwelling". The Ainu called the capes which were dangerous to go around by boat and had to be bypassed along the coast as bad, bad capes. For its trapezoidal shape, the mountain on the cape is also called "Kovrizhka". It is possible to climb to the top of the mountain only along its eastern slope overgrown with forbs, but it is quite difficult to overcome the last 7-8 meters without special equipment.

Further along the route, there is another interesting place - a zoological natural monument "Cape Kuznetsova". This place is also notable for the beauty of the coast. In the direction of the southwest, a strip of sheer cliffs with heights of up to 50-60 meters stretches for 2300 meters. Of the geomorphological objects, one can distinguish giant "fingers", "arches", "gates" - all this is scattered in a picturesque disorder not far from the coast. The shores themselves hang menacingly over the surface of the water, forming huge wave-breaking niches. The extensive bench zone extends into the strait about 600-800 meters, so in calm sunny weather the waves do not reach the coast. In the south, the cape ends in a rock that resembles a man's face in profile.

At present, in the lower reaches of the Kuznetsovka River, there is Noah's Ark - this is how the people call the subsidiary farm of the Cape Kuznetsova enterprise. This closed place is fenced off by a cordon, behind which the ecovillage is located. There is a small church on the territory of the ecovillage. And indeed, who and what is not here - horses, pigs, goats, rams, turkeys, ducks, geese graze on the seashore. Wild animals also found shelter - porcupine, ostriches, Yashka the fox, Masha the bear.

In the central part of Cape Kuznetsov (the Japanese called him Sonya), at the very tip there is the Kuznetsovo lighthouse, built by the Japanese in 1914. Its height above sea level is 78.5 meters. Previously, the cape and the bay were called Sony, which in translation from the Ainu means columnar stones or reefs and reflects the peculiarities of this place.

The southern tip of Cape Kuznetsov turns into a two-kilometer beach, stretching westward to the long and narrow Cape Zamirailova Golova. The cape is 87.5 meters high. There is a trigger point at the top. The elongated cape is surrounded from the north by the Kamoi bay, on which there are sandy beaches, from the south is Cape Zamirailova Golova.

Moving south, the route comes to the long-awaited Cape Crillon - the southern point of the peninsula. This is one large Japanese fortified area, where you can walk for weeks in search of military pillboxes, underground passages, cannons, trenches. In these places, it is worth visiting the Krillon lighthouse with a height of more than 8 meters, which has a unique and long history, as well as a monument erected on the cape in honor of the soldiers who died during the liberation of southern Sakhalin in 1945. It is recommended to take a day off at Cape Crillon to explore the local attractions. There is a frontier post on the cape, where you need to note about the visit. Also, for the movement of small vessels, notification of the border service is required.

Further, the route will go along the other side of Sakhalin along the Aniva Bay already in a northern direction through the interesting and beautiful capes of Anastasia, Kanabeev and ends at the mouth of the Uryum River (the old village of Kirillovo). Fishing camps are often found along this section, and fixed seines in the sea (care must be taken on small boats!). From the Uryum River you can go by road to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.

In general, when entering a route on a small vessel, it is necessary to take into account the risks associated with the weather, it changes very quickly in this area. When passing Cape Crillon, it is necessary to take into account the rifts and constant currents of the La Perouse Strait.

List of attractions and objects of tourist display: Cape Vindis, Cape Kuznetsov, sea lion rookery at Cape Kuznetsov, Cape Crillon, p. Atlasov, Cape Kanabeev; along the entire route, beautiful landscapes, picturesque sea and hills open up.

Arrival and departure from the route: you can reach the beginning of the route by vehicles of any passability to the village of Shebunino; Departure from the route runs from the mouth of the Uryum River (Kirillovo village).

Options for an emergency approach, departure or exit: on the section of the route from the village of Shebunino to Cape Krillon, you can leave the route by off-road vehicles. Of particular difficulty by car is the Kuznetsov Cape Pass and the pressure in front of Krillon. It is also possible to leave by off-road vehicles on the eastern section of Krillon from the Uryum River to the Mogucha River (a particular difficulty is the passage of cars through river mouths). On the section from Cape Crillon to the Mogucha River, exit from the route is possible only on foot (through Cape Kanabeev, no passage) or by water transport.

Parking places and their description. It is easy to choose a good parking lot: large meadows, enough firewood, pure water small streams flowing into the sea, will make it as comfortable as possible to equip the camp.

The most interesting and convenient parking areas:

1. Cape Windis - north side, there is a small stream, good meadow, little firewood.

2. Cape Kuznetsova (Komoi Bay) - a beautiful cozy place, sheltered from the wind, a lot of firewood, water from small streams.

3. The mouth of the Pekarnya river (a ravine in front of Cape Crillon) - convenient parking, good water, firewood along the beach.

4. Cape Anastasia - a convenient bucket for settling in bad weather, the territory is polluted with man-made debris, a fishing camp is often located.

Conclusion

The purpose of the work is to consider and identify the tourist opportunities of the Krillon Peninsula and assess natural conditions and the resources of the peninsula for the development of tourism.

To achieve this goal, a number of tasks were set before the work:

1. The geographical position of the peninsula determines its uniqueness. The Krillon Peninsula is enough unique place in its beauty. The landscapes of the peninsula are rich in their history, as well as pleasantly surprise with a variety of fauna and flora. Here you can find rare plants and observe various animals and birds. On the Krillon Peninsula, the places of settlement of the former population of the peninsula - the Japanese and the Ainu - have been partially preserved to this day. The bucket port and Cape Kanabeev, which is a historical monument, are also unique.

2. A large number of natural and historical monuments, some of them are difficult to access, in addition to their uniqueness, this attracts tourists even more.

3. Despite all the beauty of this place, the peninsula is far from being a tourist destination. There are no excursions and tours here, there are no tourist bases. This is due to the fact that there are two currents near the Krillon peninsula. Cold from the Sea of ​​Okhotsk and warm from the Tatar Strait, which ensures windy and rainy weather. You can get here only by car or on your own, by organizing a hike. Anyway, unfavorable weather do not stop those who decide to visit this unique peninsula.

Bibliography

1. Vysokova M.S. History of the Sakhalin region from ancient times to the present day / Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 1995.

2. Gorbunov S.V. Zoomorphic figurines from the Ivanovka site // Research on the archeology of Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. II. Conference abstracts. Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 1989.S. 14-15.

3. Gorbunov S.V. Catalog of archaeological collections of the Nevelskoy Museum of Local Lore // Code of Archaeological Monuments of Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. Issue 2. YuzhnoSakhalinsk, 1996.

4. Gluzdovsky V.E. Catalog of the Museum of the Society for the Study of the Amur Region // Notes of the Society for the Study of the Amur Region (Vladivostok Branch of the Amur Department of the IRGO). 4.1, vol. IX. Vladivostok, Printing house "Commercial and Industrial Bulletin of the Far East". 1907, p. 121.

5. Ito Nobuo. Earthen fortifications of the Chinese type on Karafuto // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 3, 1996.

6. Klitin A.K. Rediscovering Sakhalin: Backpacking across Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. - Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: Sakhalin - Priamurskie vedomosti Publishing House, 2010. - 304 p.

7. Klitin A.K., Brovko P.F., Gorbunov A.O. Waterfalls. Series "Natural history of Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands" / Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: state budgetary institution of culture "Sakhalin Regional Museum of Local Lore", 2013. - 168 p.

8. Multimedia Encyclopedia "Reserved Areas" / Sakhalin Regional Public Organization "Boomerang" Club, 2010

9. Niyoka T., Utagawa H. Archaeological sites in South Sakhalin. Sapporo, 1990 (in Japanese).

10. Monuments and memorable places of the Korsakov region / MU "Centralized library system of the Korsakov region". - Korsakov, 2008

11. Pervukhina E.L. , M.Yu. Lozovoy, S.V. Gorbunov. Aleksandrovskoe coast Trillium. - Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: Publishing house of KANO, 2001. - pp. 110 - 121.

12. Pervukhin S.M., M.Yu. Lozovoy, S.V. Gorbunov. Peninsula Krillon Trillium. - Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: Publishing house of KANO, 2001. - pp. 93 - 110.

13. Pervukhina, M.Yu. Lozovoy. Narrow-gauge steam locomotives of the Agnevo mine // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 6. Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 1999. S. 350 -355.

14. Plotnikov N.V. Archaeological prospecting in the Nevelsky district in 1990 // Local history bulletin, 1991.

15. Prokofiev M.M., Deryugin V.A. Gorbunov S.V. Pottery of the Satsumon culture and its findings on Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 1990.

16.Rivers of Sakhalin / Sakhalin Energy Invest Company Ltd. - Vladivostok: Apelsin Publishing House, 2013.156 pp.

17. Ryzhavsky G.Ya., Tashoyan F.V., Across Sakhalin and the Kuriles. 1994 .-- 176 p.

18. Samarin IA .. The Krillonsky detachment // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 1, 1995. S. 3-18.

19. Samarin IA .. Cape Kanabeeva // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 5, 1998. S. 26-39.

20. Samarin IA .. Cape Anastasia // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 6, 1999. S. 43-65.

21. Samarin I.A., Shubina O.A. Results of the survey of monuments of history and archeology on the peninsula in the field season of 1996 // Regional Studies Bulletin, 1997. No. 4. P. 19-58.

22. Samarin IA. Lighthouses of Sakhalin // Local history bulletin. No. 1, 1994.

23. Samarin I.A. Lighthouses of Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands, 2005

24. Samarin I.A. Monuments of military glory of the Sakhalin region, 2000

25. Samarin IA .. "Sivuch" off the coast of Sakhalin // Local history bulletin. No. 1, 1996.

26. Samarin I.A. , O. A. Shubina. The current state of the settlement of Siranusi // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 4, 1997.

27. Svyatozar Demidovich Galtsev-Bezyuk / Toponymic Dictionary of the Sakhalin Region, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: Far Eastern Book Publishing House, Sakhalin Branch, 1992

28. Hirokawa Yosinaga, Yamada Goro. About the current state of the Siranusi earth fortress // Bulletin of the Sakhalin Museum. No. 4, 1997.

29. Sharova S.S. Traveling through native land: excursion routes and tours around the island of Sakhalin: tourist guide / Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk: Publishing house IROSO, 2014. - 356 p.

30. Shubin V.O., Shubina O.A. The sites of primitive man in southern Sakhalin // Research in the archeology of the Sakhalin region. Vladivostok, 1977.S. 62-102.

Applications

a) Decision No. 329 of 15.09.1982 of the Sakhalin Regional Council of People's Deputies:

Approve the Regulation; to extend the period by 10 years - in order to protect and reproduce rare and valuable animals: sable, otters, released for the acclimatization of Canadian beavers (by that time dead!), eagles, hazel grouse, sea and water birds, taimen, sima, pink salmon, and also protection of their habitat.

The reserve performs the functions of maintaining the integrity of natural communities, preserving, reproducing and restoring valuable in economic, scientific and cultural relations, as well as rare and endangered wild animals.

Restrictions set the following types activities:

a) hunting and fishing,

b) tourism and other forms organized recreation population,

c) collecting mushrooms, berries, medicinal and ornamental plants,

d) the use of pesticides,

e) off-road traffic.

It should be noted that all this time, young cattle were grazing in the floodplains of spawning rivers. Every year, cattle bears took their tribute, for which they were shot. Here the huntsman Kartavyh hunted a bear, whose skull at the international trophy exhibition turned out to be larger than Ceausescu's trophy.

Decision of the Sakhoblispolkom No. 391 of December 23, 1987 "On partial amendment of the Regulations on the state defense order" Peninsula Krillon "No. 329":

Fishing restrictions introduced in 1982 contributed to the increase in the number of different types fish living in the reservoirs of the reserve. Taking into account the proposal of the department of the hunting economy, I decided:

Introduced in clause 3.5. Regulation No. 329 the following addition:

Amateur fishing is allowed on the territory of the reserve. For carrying out biological reclamation in rivers and catching weed fish, it is allowed, as an exception, to use nets under permits issued by the hunting administration. Control is entrusted to the gamekeepers. Chairman of the regional executive committee I. I. Kuropatko.

For reference, in the period preceding this decision, the fish protection inspectorate confiscated up to 36 large taimen per day from violators. Since then, a massive invasion began on the peninsula. The local district administration tried to get their hands on the process - they introduced an entry fee. The reserve served, and still serves, as a place for "royal" hunting and fishing. For example, during Putin's visit, Chernomyrdin was with him, who, instead of boring excursions, went to Tambovka and killed a bear. It is also the site of a fierce battle for influence between local fisheries and game management.

Memorandum "On the expediency of preserving the status of the Cape Krilyon reserve":

The number of rare fish, birds and wild animals, for which the sanctuary was supposedly created, has reached a critical point of complete extinction today. The district receives practically no production and no income through the reserve. Based on the foregoing, I consider it inexpedient to further extend the status of the Cape Krillon reserve, I propose to use these lands for the development of small businesses and farms... Art. State Inspector of the Aniva Fish Protection Inspectorate Aisin N.T. 1992

In the 90s, there was a rapid growth of fisheries. It is limited only by the inaccessibility of the area and the lack of valuable objects. Repeated attempts to restore at least some kind of order fail. The most harmful is the spring fishing for miscellaneous fish. Local rivers still perform well the functions of reproduction of pink salmon - in odd years the spawning grounds overflow and deaths are possible. Therefore, it is possible to remove pink salmon from the rivers, since fishing with sea fixed seines is ineffective here. At the same time, the by-catch of juvenile kunja, rudd and taimen is significant. There is also limited fishing for seal and kelp.

b) Order of the Sakhalin Region Administration dated 12.24.2002.

In accordance with paragraph "a" of Article 18 and Articles 19 of the Law of the Sakhalin Region dated 02.10.2000 No. 214 "On the Development of Specially Protected Areas of the Sakhalin Region": To cancel the status of the state hunting reserve of regional significance "Krillon Peninsula". I.P. Farkhutdinov, regional governor.

The game managers managed to get rid of the problem area very easily. The following wording was used: "the goals of stabilizing the number of wild animals and birds, including those listed in the Red Book, are fully achieved." None of the independent experts confirmed this, and there was no environmental impact assessment. In fact, the reserve failed at least to protect and reproduce taimen and sima. Since March 2002, several meetings of various levels have been held on the Krillon issue. A variant was proposed of organizing a specially protected natural area, new for the Russian Far East, - a salmon reserve under the management of Sakhalinrybvod.

By the order of the governor, a reserve was established on the Krillon peninsula:

At the request of the deputies and the administration of the Aniva district, at present, the Department of Fisheries and the Committee of Natural Resources are working on the creation of a biological and ichthyological reserve on the Krillon Peninsula.

In order to maintain law and order on the territory of the peninsula, suppress poaching, as well as taking into account the fire hazardous period and the upcoming salmon fishing season, on April 30, the regional governor signed an order instructing the departments of the timber and fishing complexes to ensure, together with the regional hunting administration, the closure of free access across the Uryum River to all legal and individuals, who does not have in his hands a special pass signed by all three controlling services. Thus, nature conservation measures allow preserving the relict forests and the salmon maternity hospital of Aniva Bay in their original form. Press center of the Sakhalin Region Administration, April 30, 2003

Unfortunately, the title of this post contains typical misinformation. At one time, Sakhalinrybvod really advocated the creation of an ichthyological reserve with a ban on salmon fishing. There was a wave of publications in the media about this - "Krillon is not dead", "Krillon will live", "Salmon sanctuary". But at the decisive meeting on April 28, 2003, the head of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam Zatulyakin A.V. abandoned the intention to take this territory under special protection. Governor Farkhutdinov ordered to spend Putin and return to consideration of the question of the expediency of the reserve in November 2003. Yes, he did not have time.

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