After settling in Tokyo, later I traveled around the neighborhood light. On the 10th day of my stay in Japan, I decided to go to Hakone.
Hakone is not a separate attraction, and not even a city (although there is a village of the same name). This is a whole region 80 kilometers southwest of Tokyo (Ashiragashima district, Kanagawa prefecture), which has a lot of interesting things. Although I do not like beaten tourist trails, it was only by following such a trail that you could see as much as possible in a limited time.
Briefly the route along which I moved is described, oip_ru ... Although we were there separately, our route in Hakone was the same. There are not many variations for one day, except in which direction this circular route should be taken.
Early in the morning I took the train from the hotel to the station, where I changed to a shinkansen, and on it I got to Odawara station. On the second floor of the train station, I bought a Hakone Free Pass (5,000 yen). JR pass does not work there. The Hakone Free Pass is valid for only one day, but covers many different means of transportation, and this is all you need to travel around the region. With the ticket, I received a souvenir keychain and a map of local roads, here it is (the map can be taken in English or Japanese, below is the Japanese version):
card.
From Odawara to Hakone Yumoto Station, you can take a regular local train, or in the panoramic Odakyu Romancecar car. The latter is distinguished by panoramic windows and a special service for lovers. The best place there is in front of the first car, instead of the driver's cab. Since I was alone on this trip, I took a regular train. Moreover, the Free pass does not apply to Romancecar, and you have to pay for it separately. At an early hour there were almost no people on the train.
I got on the tram, but found that I had a little more time before it left, so I decided to take a couple of shots of the city.
Starting from Hakone Yumoto, my path went higher and higher into the mountains. Although the town is located only a hundred meters above sea level, its view is already quite mountainous.
The tram is interesting in that it climbs the mountain in zigzags, with a slope of 8 degrees. At certain intervals, the conductor leaves the first carriage, passes along the platform to the last one, and the train moves to reverse direction... There is no practical need for this, it would be possible to plant two conductors. But then the tourist the charm. I captured the moment of the conductor's transition in this video:
A tram arrives at the Gora station. There I was greeted by a magical fog.
The cable car, which carries tourists further up the mountain, could be transferred directly from the platform. But instead, I dived deeper into the fog. I walked along the narrow streets to Gora-koen, a local park, the entrance to which is also included in the Hakone pass.
I was lucky with a visit to the park. I got there at a relatively early hour, the park is not a must-see and the easy to get lost fog scared off many potential visitors. Therefore, there were very few people in the park, and I managed to take many beautiful photos. Some I will give here, and the rest you can see in my album by clicking on the link to any of them.
The park houses a tiny art museum, Hakone Bijutsukan. The most interesting thing about it is the workshop, where for some money you will be helped to make yourself a memorable glass souvenir. For example, a glass.
After an exceptionally pleasant walk in the park, I returned to the main hiking trail- to the cable car.
The tram is designed so that it travels uphill with a constant slope.
To make the seats in it parallel to the ground, the floor of the car is made of ledges.
The tram goes to Sounzan station, where it is proposed to change to the cable car to Owakudani.
The cable cars are diving into the fog.
The road emerged from the fog over the gorge. Smoky columns of fumaroles rose everywhere, between them outcrops of native sulfur peeped through.
Owakudani - highest point route, and the most picturesque. True, there is no way to get to the fumaroles. Of the buildings there is a cafe, and several souvenir shops with volcanic goods.
In one of the sulfur springs, the water temperature reaches 80 degrees. Do you see the handle on the left? A net with eggs is tied to it. After boiling in sulfur springs, the eggs take on a radically black color, and, according to legend, the use of such eggs prolongs life.
However, the Japanese generally believe that there is nothing healthier than being scalded in a hot spring. It is good if the water is saturated with some kind of poisons, for example, sulfur. It’s even better if it’s radioactive. Well, for whom this is not enough - in some hot springs, electric current is also used for water. In the photo below, the Japanese are queuing up for an ISO 14001 certified hot spring.
In principle, from there you can climb the trekking route to the top of the mountain, but without a guide it is forbidden, and the road did not look very reliable, so I didn’t do this.
View of the Owakudani station.
I started to feel sick from the strong smell of hydrogen sulfide, so I didn't even eat a black egg there. Although, went to the store and bought some Japanese volcanic cosmetics for souvenirs. The most mysterious souvenir turned out to be something very similar to soap. Oval orange, slightly opalescent, bar. In Moscow, it turned out that it does not wash, and generally does not dissolve in water, although it feels like soap with rough inclusions. So this thing is kept at my house, so I never found out what it was.
My path from Owakudani was different cable car to the port of Togendai-ko, via Ubako.
It is curious that the cable cars of the cable car are of a completely different system than on the segment to Sounzan. In my opinion, it would be more logical to make them unified to simplify the assembly and repair. However, the Japanese have their own way.
The cable car passes by Lake Asi. In the photo below you can see 2 pirate ships on the lake. On one of them I had to continue my journey.
Lake Asi is a high-mountainous lake of volcanic origin. It is famous for the fact that it does not freeze all year round, as well as for its abundance of fish.
As you can see in the photo, it costs 970 yen to cross the lake. However, this segment of the path is also included in the Hakone free pass.
The ships styled as pirate ships are diesel barges. However, the above waterline is similar to sailing ships superb. In the photo, the ship is smaller, I sailed on it.
And this one, the bigger one, met us on the way.
It's pretty cozy inside. In the photo below, you can see an almost real pirate who is part of the crew.
The shores of the lake are deserted, for the most part, they leave the impression of untouched nature. Although, in some places there are buildings that clearly belong to sanatoriums. On the way, we met a third pirate ship, although some sources of information about Asya (for example, the Russian-language Wikipedia) claim that there are only two such ships on the lake.
A ship drops off tourists at the Motohakone-ko pier. Interestingly, I found several monuments there. True, they were of little interest, since I could not understand to whom and on what occasion they were erected - there were no English-language annotations for them.
Therefore, in the same place, near the port, I took a bus that brought me to the starting point - Hakone-Yumoto station.
Goodbye, Hakone. Let's go to Odawara!
At the Odawara train station, I came across a Romancecar train. This is an old series, and I did not have time to photograph it from the front. In general, from the front, it looks something like this.
I booked a ticket for the nearest shinkansen, and after a short wait on the platform, I took it back to Tokyo.
Other travel:
And spa complexes. And most importantly, you will have the opportunity to appreciate the view of the familiar and fascinating from childhood.
Location
History of Hakone
Previously, the city was called "Dzyoka Mati", which means "castle city" in Japanese. The construction of a castle surrounded by fortress walls began here at the beginning of the 17th century. As an architectural find and to protect against the assault of enemies on the way to the castle, they decided to make steps of various shapes and sizes, as well as surround it with three moats. Today, Hakone is a very popular tourist destination and center for contemporary art in Japan, as it houses a huge variety of museums, galleries and exhibition halls with constantly updated displays.
Climate
Hakone is characterized by a temperate climate with fairly frequent precipitation and an average annual air temperature of + 9 ° C. Summers are very warm, but cold gusty winds often blow from the top of Fujiyama. The most comfortable weather is in April-May and August-November. At this time, precipitation is much less and neither heat nor cold is observed. Therefore, most tourists plan a trip to Hakone in late spring and early autumn.
The city's attractions
All tourists who come to the city of Hakone in Japan wonder what to see in this wonderful place. Here is a list of the most interesting places in the town:
- with great mountainous nature and famous thermal springs... Spa resorts and hospitals with a full range of health and beauty treatments are built next to them. Yunnessan is the most famous Hakone hot spring in Japan, where wellness can be alternated with baths (Turkish or Roman) and water attractions.
- Fujiyama volcano. It is the symbol of all of Japan. It is possible to purchase a mountain climb tour, but it is worth keeping in mind that this trip requires excellent physical fitness and endurance, especially if you are considering climbing to the very top of Fuji in Hakone (3776 m above sea level). Climbing Mount Fuji takes place in July and August, it is possible to travel by bus to observation deck where there is a restaurant and a place for.
- It starts from Sonzan Station and goes towards Togendai Station. The total length is about 4 km. In 2008, this cable car was included in the Guinness Book of Records as the busiest. The Hakone Cable Car (from Togndai to) costs around 1900 yen ($ 16.6) per person.
- Lake Asi. You can ride it on cruise ship by booking a special tour. There are regular buses to one of the piers on Asi, so you can get to the lake on your own. Another option is to take the train to Gora station and then take the funicular to Togndai.
- Ovakudani volcano. Located next to the funicular station of the same name. Attracts tourists with hot springs where chicken eggs are boiled. After such cooking, they turn black, and according to local beliefs, whoever eats them will gain health and longevity.
- It is located near Lake Asi and is one of the most ancient and picturesque temples in the country. An alley with centuries-old Japanese cedars leads to it. The length of the alley is more than 1 km, and more than a thousand trees have been planted on it. The largest trunk is four meters in diameter. Near the temple is thermal spa Hakone Yumoto.
- Hakone Palace, which previously served as the summer Imperial residence.
- Odawara- the castle of the Japanese samurai.
- Hakone's many museums. Among them is the famous Museum under open air Chokoku no Mori, which features several exhibition halls, sculptures and art objects. If you are a connoisseur of various exhibitions, then pay attention to the Museums The little prince, mosaics and glass, woods, toys, art, as well as the Museum of the POLA company.
Holidays in Hakone
Why did tourists love Japanese Hakone so much? Although this is a miniature village, if you take a look at a few photos of Hakone, you can appreciate how varied a journey here can be. There are several options for spending leisure time in the city:
- Ecotourism and recreation. You will find picturesque views of Fujiyama and Owakudani, a walk along the wooded paths of the reserve, the opportunity to see mountain and, of course, medicinal springs.
- Visiting art monuments and exhibitions, acquaintance with the history of Hakone and Japan in general.
- Hiking and climbing. A visit to the Togndai tourist camp is of interest. From there you can go to the village of Owakudani, then to Mount Komagatake and then take the funicular down back. The route takes about 3 hours, during which you can get acquainted with the natural features of the city of Hakone.
- Festival on Lake Asi. Held at the end of July near the ritual gate of the Hakone Shrine. According to legend, the rice sacrificed by the abbot is food for the dragon chained to the bottom of the lake.
Hotels and restaurants in Hakone
On the territory of Hakone there are many hotels of different levels. However, the most popular accommodation option in Hakone is the ryokans located near the thermal springs. These hotels and rooms in them outwardly look quite ascetic, but the range of services offered is very wide, and the quality is at the highest level. Rooms in ryokans are expensive, averaging 30,000 yen ($ 262.5). Please note that on weekends there is often an influx of tourists from nearby Tokyo, and prices on weekends and holidays increase.
There are also plenty of restaurants and cafes in Hakone. Here you can find both expensive establishments, for example, Itoh Dining by NOBU, The Fujiya, Salom de the Rosage and Kikka-so, and much cheaper ones - Cafe Restaurant Shunsai, Lucky "s cafe, Kikukawa Shoten, Tamago Chaya.
How to get there?
From in Hakone you can get there by train or bus. Express trains run from Tokyo Shinjuku Station to Hakone. The duration of the route is 1 hour 25 minutes, and the journey is about 2080 Japanese yen ($ 18.2). More a budget option- hit the road on a regular train, it takes about 2 hours to Hakone, a ticket for it costs 1190 yen ($ 10.4).
In addition, buses leave from Shinjuku to the city. The ride in them to Hakone in the absence of traffic jams takes 2 hours, the fare is 2000 yen ($ 17.5).
The Hakone (or Hakone) area is National park Fuji-Hakone-Izu. It is 80 kilometers from Tokyo and is visited by 20 million tourists annually. The park is divided into two parts by the expressway: Hakone - a giant caldera extinct volcano, which now houses the Ashi mountain lake, and the area around Mount Fuji.
Hakone has many museums, cable cars, helicopter rides, luxury hotels and whole bath complexes, the majestic Shinto Dragon Temple, pleasure boats, gourmet restaurants, souvenir shops, hydrogen sulfide hot springs, magnificent nature and clean mountain air.
Hakone Fuji National Park landmarks
Mount fuji
Mount Fuji (Fuji-san) for the Japanese is a symbol of their country. Many people call Mount Fuji "Fujiyama", but this is not true. "Yama" in Japanese is simply "mountain". To call such a majestic volcano as Fuji simply "a mountain" is considered impolite by the Japanese. Therefore, the mountain is called "Fuji-san", where the word "san" also means the word "mountain", but carries a connotation of sublimity, respect, reverence, recognition of particularity and exclusivity.
Mount Fuji itself, so during the excursion we reach only the place from where the daredevils begin their ascent - the 5th station of Mount Fuji. In winter, in case of heavy snowfalls, the authorities block the road to the 5th station and then we admire the mountain from other points in Hakone. After all, it is known that large looks best from a distance.
Owakudani - an area of volcanic activity
Owakudani translates as "The Valley of the Great Boil". Indeed, because of the sulfur lakes, the water temperature in which reaches 100 degrees Celsius, you really feel like in a giant boiling pot.
Probably, to further enhance this impression, the Japanese came up with the idea of boiling eggs in these lakes. 5 minutes - and the white shell of the egg turns black. On the inside, it's a perfectly edible regular hard-boiled egg. Eat one egg and you get 7 years of life.
We ascend to Owakudani by cable car, which offers enchanting views of Mount Fuji.
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Lake Asi
In the caldera of an extinct volcano, the magnificent mountain lake Ashi (Ashi-no-ko) has formed. The whole environment around the lake reminds the sophisticated traveler of the mountain lakes of Italy and Switzerland.
Pleasure boats run on the lake, there is fish in the lake that you can catch.
The shores of Lake Ashi are a favorite place for Japanese people to admire Fuji. On a clear day, the mountain is reflected in the calm waters of the lake, as in a mirror.
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Onsen Hakone
Due to the incessant volcanic activity in the Hakone area, there are many underground hot springs that feed an immeasurable number of "onsen" - outdoor hot baths with their waters.
Hakone became famous for its onsens, where monks, courtiers, samurai and ordinary travelers came from ancient times to swim in the hot healing waters of the resort.
Hakone provides onsen of all kinds: large bathing complexes (Yunessun), private hotel onsen and private baths. During the excursion, the tourists and I always make a stop at one of these onsen.
On a note
Other sights
- Odawara - a city near Hakone, where you can see a real samurai castle
- Five Lakes of Fuji - travel to Hakone by car, you can go around Fuji and admire the waterfalls and five lakes of Fuji
- - at the foot of Fuji there is a zoo, where animals are not in cages, but freely walk around the park
- Fuji-Q Highland amusement park with the tallest and fastest roller coaster in the world
The open-air museum is the first Art Museum in Japan, founded in 1969. It consists of 5 exhibition halls, which house about 120 works of famous contemporary sculptors. Also here you can find the Picasso Pavilion and various hot spring lawns where you can relax and enjoy the splendor of outdoor art.
The exhibition space covers an area of approximately 70,000 square meters. The main attractions of the museum are examples of works by world renowned sculptors such as Rodin, Bourdelle, Miro and Moore.
The Picasso collection consists of more than 300 works, including various paintings, prints, sculptures, gold and silver objects, as well as a large assortment of ceramics purchased from Maya Picasso, the creator's eldest daughter.
The Kanagawa Open Air Museum houses one of the world's largest collections of works by the English sculptor Henry Moore. The rotating exhibition, consisting of 26 pieces, invites the visitor to immerse himself in the artistic senses of this master. On the grounds of the museum, in addition to the gallery exhibition, you will find many restaurants and shops.
Odawara Castle
Odawara Castle, founded by Omiru Eriharu in 1418, located in the city of the same name in Kanagawa Prefecture, was once the seat of several daimyo during the Muromachi period. Nowadays it is a museum.
The total territory of the castle, located on a hill and well protected - surrounded by a moat around the perimeter, was about 170 hectares. After its capture in 1495 by the Hojo Nagauji, it was owned by five generations of the Hojo clan.
But in July 1590, the castle was captured by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and then destroyed by the Meiji government and rebuilt only in 1960 - in the form in which you can see it now.
What sights in Hakone did you like? There are icons next to the photo, by clicking on which you can rate this or that place.
Odawara
Odawara is the main railway line for Odakyu Electric Railway, a private Japanese rail operator. It stretches for almost 83 kilometers from Shinjuku Station, located in Tokyo, to the city of Odawara, located in Kanagawa Prefecture. This line became famous for its "Romance Car" express trains. Some trains operate on the Jeban and Chieda lines from Eegi Uehara Station. The Odawara Line was opened in April 1927. In 1942, it was forcibly merged with the Tokyu company, but in 1948, after a series of reforms, it again became part of the Odakyu company.
Plans to expand the line were started back in 1970, but could not be implemented in any way due to the problems arising in obtaining the necessary land. In 2011, active expansion work began and is still ongoing in the section from Eegi Uehara Station to Mukogaoka Yuen Station. To lay two additional paths, it will be necessary to lower the line underground in some areas. It was decided to build a tunnel from Higashi Kitazawa Station to Setagaya Daita Station. Its construction is planned to be completed in 2013.
The Japanese cedar, or cryptomeria, is the country's national tree. The centuries-old cedar alley is one of the many landmarks of Hakone Gongen Shrine, located in Hakone City. Its length is about 1050 meters, and the oldest tree is about 600 years old. it amazing place keeps many mysteries, as well as the memory of various historical events that have occurred here over hundreds of years. The alley was planted long before the foundation of the temple; now it leads directly to the main gate of the monastery. The oldest cedar is at the end of the alley, its diameter is about 4 meters. According to scientists' estimates, 1020 trees grow on the territory of the Hakone cedar alley (on both sides). Local authorities are planning to increase its length by planting young cedars.
This place has fantastic medicinal properties, therefore it is very popular with tourists. People from different parts of the world come here, especially those suffering from respiratory diseases. With every day spent in this fabulous location, you will be filled with new strength and energy.
A pirate boat on Lake Ashino-ko
Lake Ashino-ko is a unique natural setting located in the Hakone region. Due to its picturesque shores, it is the most popular tourist attraction in the city, from which wonderful views of Mount Fuji open up. Here tourists have a unique opportunity to observe the coastal areas of the lake from stylized tourist boats. Some of them are made in the form of pirate ships, which fully correspond to the originals. During boat trip you will be able to see the Hakone volcano as well as visit the boiling Owakudani Valley. Pirate ships ply in two tourist routes, where fishing is well organized, and there are excellent small restaurants.
The pirate ship starts sailing on Lake Ashino-ko daily at 08:00. When a sufficient number of people gather at the berth, boarding begins, and then the ship departs along one of the selected routes. In order to create a real pirate atmosphere, highly qualified animators are invited to the ship. Also in the local menu you can taste a pirate drink - rum.
Funicular Soun-zan-Tongendai
Funicular "Soun-zan-Tongendai" is a link between railway station Sounzan and Mountain Cable Car in Hakone City, Kanagawa. The funicular line was opened in 1922, and in 1975 it underwent a major overhaul. At the moment, its length is 1200 meters, and its height is 214 meters. At the disposal of "Soun - zan - Tongendai" there are two trailers with a capacity of 250 passengers. The sloping funicular is unidirectional, with a cyclic passage of the path. The trailers cover the distance in about 10-15 minutes, taking into account 4 short-term stops.
The funicular is an indispensable means of transportation in Hanoka, saving you time and enjoying the magnificent scenery of Mount Fuji. Without it, getting to the cable car would be very problematic. From the window of the trailer you can take great photos, and free video filming is also allowed. Tourists are attracted by the simplicity and accessibility of the funicular. An adult ticket costs € 2 and a child ticket costs € 1.5.
The most popular attractions in Hakone with descriptions and photos for every taste. Choose best places for visiting famous places Hakone on our website.
More Hakone Attractions
Impressions of a trip to Hakone - a region in Japan at the foot of the great and terrible Mount Fuji.
What to do in Hakone Relax in numerous ryokans, learn what an onsen is, take a boat ride on Lake Ashi, take a funicular, and, of course, see Fuji from different angles - of course, if he wants to show himself to you.
How to get to Hakone from Tokyo
01 Shinkansen train to Odawara station, there change to Hakone Tozan Railway to Hakone-Yumoto - a quick but expensive way.
01 Odakyu Line trains connecting Odawara to Hakone-Yumoto: Tickets for this route option are included in the Hakone Freepass. Or the JR train (not included in the pass).
01 Odakyu buses from Shinjuku Station to Hakone. Not so expensive, but long - 2.5 hours. With a small surcharge, bus tickets can be obtained in addition to the Hakone Freepass
01 Espress Romancecar from Shinjuku Station to Hakone-Yumoto. With a higher surcharge, bus tickets can be purchased in addition to the Hakone Freepass.
What is Hakone Freepass and where to buy it
Hakone Freepass is a pass that gives access to Odakyu trains from Tokyo to Hakone Yumoto, and covers almost everything transport connection in the Hakone region (Tozan Bus). The pass also includes a cable car in Hakone and a cruise on Lake Ashi.
The diagram shows what is included in the Hakone pass directly in the Hakone itself (clickable).
It seemed to me that this site is not very clear about what type of road from Tokyo is still included in the pass. The price includes only regular trains Odakyu lines. For a more comfortable high-speed Romanscar or bus you will have to pay extra.
In general, the purchase of the pass is well worth it. The pass costs 5,140 yen. The fare from Tokyo to Hakone Yumoto starts from 1,800 yen one way, plus the buses around the region, since all the onsen, ryokans, lake and Hakone cable car are located far from this station and you have to go by bus / buses. Lake cruise costs 1840 yen, cable car - 1370 yen (one way). The savings are evident.
You can buy the Hakone Freepass on the ground floor of Shinjuku Station (this is the main station on the Odakyu Line) near the west exit. Trains and buses leave from here.
Sometimes easier buy an excursion in Hakone than to suffer with trains and non-English speaking Japanese employees in ticket offices 😁 Examples of excursions in Hakone from Tokyo can be seen here - and there are even more of them on the Viator website:
Review of the trip to Hakone for two days
So, let's go with Shinjuku. The information stand of the Odakyu company is not difficult to find, and having bought the Hakone Freepass, we go to the train.
Check-in at Japanese hotels and ryokans is always late - usually at 3-4 pm. Therefore, it was decided to spend free time before settling on Lake Asi. You can take a bus from Hakone Yumoto Station (箱根 湯 本) to Lake Ashi.
The bus now and then dives into the clouds of fog, from the slopes (Hakone is Mountain landscape) almost nothing is visible, only greenery along the road. Everything else is drowned in white mist 🙂
This is our second trip to Hakone and the second time we have no luck with the weather - it is heavy rain and nothing is visible. You should be prepared for this kind of weather if you are going to visit Mount Fuji.
Sunny weather and blue sky with a silhouette of Fuji, looking at you from advertising brochures from different angles, you can not always see: it is very humid in Japan, and the mountains are shrouded in clouds and fog, and the Hakone region is most time too. It often rains here: during our trip from Tokyo to Hakone (more than a day) the rain did not stop for a minute.
Walking tour of Hakone, near Hakonemachi-ko pier: 
The symbol of Hakone and Japan is sacred mountain Fuji.
By the way, Fuji is usually called nothing else but Fuji-san, and by no means Fuji-yama. The fact is that the hieroglyph 山 (mountain), which is part of the name of Mount Fuji, is read in this case as san.
Lake Ashi in Hakone (芦 ノ 湖)
That's Lake Asi, on which you can ride on a pirate boat. This ride is included in Hakone Feepass and we will take advantage of it.
There are three ports in Hakone - Motohakone-ko, Hakonemachi-ko and Togendai-ko. We board a boat in the port of Motohakone-ko.
Our vessel:
The weather is no different from three years ago.
Lake Ashi in Hakone is of volcanic origin. It appeared in the crater of a once-existing volcano over 400,000 years ago. All of Japan is located in a seismically active zone, and everything is boiling and breathing in the Hakone region. In some places, puffs of steam erupt, and onsen are located on the numerous hot springs of Hakone, where thermal waters rich in potassium and magnesium come out.
In the photo below - Togendai port: one Hakone pass can be used to travel all over Lake Asi, returning to the original point. So we admire the mountains buried in greenery and clouds and know - somewhere there, behind the clouds, there is he, Fuji.
He's just hiding.
A few more pictures from the walk in Hakone. This is how local restaurants lure guests inside 🙂
Japanese udon noodles and tempura loved by many - vegetables and shrimps fried in batter:
Sometimes in Japan, in front of the entrance to restaurants, cafes, other establishments, they put such bowls with water and small fish. I haven't figured out why yet. Maybe someone knows?
I associate this color with Japan - matcha color 🙂
It is said that Lake Asi is formed by rainwater. Now you can imagine how much rain falls in Hakone to fill such an area with water!
From the interesting - on the right bank of Lake Asi is the Dragon Temple - Hakone Jinja Shrine, the red-orange torii gate of which stands right on the water.
So, Fuji-san didn't want to show himself to us, but we are not discouraged! After all, ahead is what tourists go to Hakone for. Japanese ryokan and real mineral springs!
To get to the ryokan, walk from Hakonemachi-ko to Motohakone-ko. The walk will take about 20 minutes.
Unexpected beauty that lies in wait for the traveler along the road - cedar alley with abnormally large trees. The ground under your feet is black, volcanic, so you need to wear comfortable shoes for walking, and which you do not mind - everything will get dirty.
Centuries-old majestic trees (this is the Japanese cedar, or cryptomeria) rise on both sides of the trail. The diameter of the oldest cedar in the alley is over 4 meters.
Japanese ryokan and onsen in Hakone
How to choose a ryokan in Hakone? There are a lot of them here and they are expensive. Hakone is one of the most popular tourist destinations (both locals and Japanese) in Japan, and in general, a good ryokan won't be cheap. One tip: book ryokans in Japan in advance for more choice and possibly lower prices.
For our independent trip in Hakone we have booked Kinokuniya Ryokan... They chose by location, booking reviews and availability of their source. Finally captivated by the fact that the ryokan offers not only mineral spring, but also a source of sulfuric water! Sounds exotic. This ryokan is also 300 years old, and everything in it breathes history.
Inside is a traditional room with tatami mats and already laid out futons. They sleep on futons, walk barefoot on tatami straw mats 🙂
Outside the window, it is still raining and everything is shrouded in fog ... A sign by the window notifies that a swallow's nest has been arranged over the window. Sweetheart!
The ryokan had both public and private baths that could be rented for half an hour.
Public onsen(for general use) is located behind such curtains - boys and girls separately. All water is natural, from hot springs.
On the curtains you can see a sign for an onsen - a bowl and three strips of steam. If turned over, it looks like a jellyfish 🙂 That is why the Japanese often call this sign "jellyfish", kurage.
How to use the Japanese onsen:
A few more photos from the ryokan in Hakone and photos of the onsen can be seen in the gallery below. All photos are clickable: a Japanese ryokan garden, geta sandals, and, in fact, a private onsen with water saturated with hydrogen sulfide. The smell is appropriate, but, as the Japanese say, it is very beneficial for the body and health.
A night on futons accompanied by the sound of rain is a very special experience! Be sure to try to spend at least one night at the ryokan when you are in Japan.
+100 points to the experience of the trip!
Rules for visiting a ryokan:
Dragon Temple in Hakone (箱根 神社)
We hoped that all the rain would pour out during the night, but in vain. The next day in Hakone it rained harder than ever. But rain is raining, and sightseeing in Hakone is on schedule!
Therefore, we take umbrellas and head to the next point of the walk in Hakone - Hakone-jinja Nine-Headed Dragon Temple.
The dragon in Japan, by the way, is an aquatic animal, so to speak. Japanese dragons do not breathe fire, but are found in water bodies. Maybe that's why it was raining?
The scarlet gate of the main temple of Hakone stands at the very edge of Lake Ashi. On the one hand, there is the mirror-like surface of Lake Asi, on the other, a thicket of cedar forests.
An alley leads to the Dragon Temple in Hakone, on the sides of which there is a row of red traditional toro lamps. Toro lanterns are often seen at Buddhist or Shinto shrines in Japan.
Hakone Mountains have always been considered sacred place: There are legends about a dragon living underground and blowing out puffs of steam. This is a reference to volcanic activity and the Hakone hot springs. But there is a legend about a dragon living in the waters of Lake Asi and devouring beauties. In Shinto, they believe that the Hakone Mountains are inhabited by deities, and the sacred Mount Fuji is nearby ...
All this makes the Dragon Temple in Hakone mystical place: inevitably, you step quieter, freeze in front of the gigantic trees, listen to the sounds of the forest.
Climbing the stone steps, we go to the temple. Before you pray, you need to go through the ablution ritual - rinse your hands and mouth. The fountain is composed of nine dragons - named after the sanctuary (Hakone Jinja). Sanctuary of the Nine-Headed Dragon, the one that devoured beautiful girls in Lake Asi.
Visitors to the temple ask the gods for all sorts of different things, writing their wishes on wooden tablets:
So I keep swearing at the rain - but rain and fog give a special atmosphere to this place, right?
Especially the famous torii gates on Lake Asi:
From the Dragon Temple, we head to the next point in Hakone - Togendai-ko, from where you can take a cable car up the mountain above Lake Ashi.
Hakone cable car
We will climb Mount Kamiyama (神山) - literally "divine mountain". I would like to see a wonderful view of the lake and the magical Fuji ... But all that can be seen through the rain-drenched glass of the gondola is the green tops of the Hakone mountains mixed with fog.
A visit to the Hakone Ropeway is also included in the price of the previously purchased Hakone Freepass.
It is worth getting off at Owakudani station - a hellish valley ("great hell"), where clouds of sulfuric steam burst from the ground, painting the stones in a poisonous yellow color. Favorite entertainment of tourists in Owakudani Valley- dip the basket of eggs into the boiling water of the hot springs. They get them out of there ready to use. At the same time, the shell becomes coal-black. Eggs are quite edible and remarkably healthy: one such egg is said to extend life by as much as seven years.
Important: now Owakudani Valley closed due to increased activity of sulfur emissions. So you won't be able to walk through the valley of geysers in Hakone.
A little discouraged that we do not get into the epicenter of boiling eggs, we look over the railing of the terrace in the tourist area. Here it is, below - that same hellish valley of Owakudani.
Eggs in Owakudani can still be tasted, they are sold here at every step. Both at Owakudani station itself and in Hakone.
It was so rainy, without Fuji, but still this trip to Hakone turned out to be extremely interesting. I can't wait to repeat it! 😉
And if you are lucky with the weather and you saw Fuji-san, you are a real lucky one 🙂
If you're wondering what Fuji-san looks like in good weather, click here:
How we climbed Fuji:
Fog and autumn rain.
But let Fuji be invisible,
How gladdens the heart she is!
